Picture: Rose hips Photo: Parfumista (c) |
torsdag 1 november 2018
Blog anniversary 12 years
söndag 28 oktober 2018
Atelier Cologne - Part 2
The Atelier Cologne testing has continued .....
Trèfle Pur: Elegant and minimalistic. Smooth lime, moss, not powdery but wet chalky. Contemporary but somehow retro in the same time. Reminds me of a favorite modern cologne Mugler Cologne in a more elegant chypre inspired version. Trèfle Pur has to be applied liberally to last during a whole day, almost a full sample is needed.
Orange Sanguine: Juicy, sunny and so happy! Starts like fresh squeezed orange juice, sipped on the terrace, during a breakfest in the height of the summer. The orange-y scent stays during the whole musky slight ambery dry down. There is also green fragments of the orangetree leaves in the mix. In the later phases of the dry down, Orange Sanguine resembles Clémentine California but more sweet juicy where CC is greener and more tangy.
Grand Néroli: Elegant, citrus - bergamott opening,like a contemporary interpretation of the 70s classics as for example Eau de Rochas and Chanel Cristalle Edt. After a while GN takes a different path and the nèroliaccord takes the center. The longer the drydown, the softer and creamier GN appears, as with Trèfle Pur, there are similarities with Mugler Cologne in the late stage of the dry down. Also Grand Nèroli has to be applied just as liberally as Trèfle Pur to last.
Rose Anonyme: This is one of my favorite roseparfumes, I imagine a cool dark pink rose wrapped in fresh, earthy patchoulileaves and some cool spices, combined with a balanced woody oud. There is also something almost winey about it. Despite this, Rose Anonyme is not thick and heavy, instead it's surprisingly transparent. A woodier variation of Laboratorio Olfattive Rosamunda and a fragrance for those who loves dark roses as for example Marni Marni, Juliette has a Gun Lady Vengeance, Terry de Gunzburg Rouge Nocturne and so on.
Picture: Trèfle Pur Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c) |
Trèfle Pur: Elegant and minimalistic. Smooth lime, moss, not powdery but wet chalky. Contemporary but somehow retro in the same time. Reminds me of a favorite modern cologne Mugler Cologne in a more elegant chypre inspired version. Trèfle Pur has to be applied liberally to last during a whole day, almost a full sample is needed.
Picture: Orange Sanguine Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c) |
Orange Sanguine: Juicy, sunny and so happy! Starts like fresh squeezed orange juice, sipped on the terrace, during a breakfest in the height of the summer. The orange-y scent stays during the whole musky slight ambery dry down. There is also green fragments of the orangetree leaves in the mix. In the later phases of the dry down, Orange Sanguine resembles Clémentine California but more sweet juicy where CC is greener and more tangy.
Picture: Grand Néroli Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c) |
Grand Néroli: Elegant, citrus - bergamott opening,like a contemporary interpretation of the 70s classics as for example Eau de Rochas and Chanel Cristalle Edt. After a while GN takes a different path and the nèroliaccord takes the center. The longer the drydown, the softer and creamier GN appears, as with Trèfle Pur, there are similarities with Mugler Cologne in the late stage of the dry down. Also Grand Nèroli has to be applied just as liberally as Trèfle Pur to last.
Picture: Rose Anonyme Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c) |
Etiketter:
Atelier Cologne,
Clèmentine California,
Cristalle,
Eau de Rochas,
Grand Nèroli,
Lady Vengeance,
Mugler Cologne,
Orange Sanguine,
Review-mini,
Rosamunda,
Rose Anonyme,
Rouge Nocturne,
Trèfle Pur
söndag 7 oktober 2018
Atelier Cologne - Part 1
Atelier Cologne is a house which I for many years have overlooked to discover properly. I love Jasmine Angelique and like Mistral Patchouli and Rose Anonyme very much. Café Tuberosa enticed me to try more of the line. Thanks to the generous Atelier Cologne Sales representative in Åhlens City, I've a bunch of samples to test. Here are my short impressions:
Tobacco Nuit: A stunning transparent Tobacco from one of the Edp sub-lines of Atelier, Collection Orient. On paperstrip it first smells like a anorectic version of Kerosene Copper Skies, on skin it's tobacco, citric notes, sort of a dry smell of soft paper and finally sparkling, fresh cardamon. A proper and clean tobacco for those who are afraid of a disruptive interpretation of the note.
Clémentine California: An almost natural smell of Clementine, slight bitter but in the same time juicy sweet. Green notes like the leaves of the tree and also a cold, breezy impression. Compared to for example Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrèe CC is brighter and sharper in apperance, In MA the mandarine is wrapped in a soft, glowing amber.Strong and longlasting for belonging to the cologne subline, somewhere between Edt and Edp on my skin.
Café Tuberosa: I've already posted two mini-reviews of CT and therefore add both: "Starts with thick tuberose, bergamot, blended with dry cacao and maybe a hint of coffee. It's a thick blend, vintage in style reminding me in texture and style of Vero Profumo Rozy. Later there are traces of the colognestyle with hints of citric notes. " (April 2018) "What a comforting beauty! A dark oriental floral with chypre vibes. The coffee and cacao are not sharp or sticky, they blends very balanced with the tuberose in a retrostyled accord. The tuberose dosen't stand out as a flower, it's just a part of the dark blend. " (September 2018).
Further impressions from testing fragrances from Atelier Cologne will appear during the coming months.
Picture: Tobacco Nuit Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c) |
Picture: Encense Jinhae Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c) |
Encens Jinhae: Also belonging to the Collection Orient, E J is dry incense wrapped in berries, pink pepper and roses. E J immediately reminds me of a smoother and more sophicated Vivienne Westwood Anglomania mixed with some Chopard Madness.
Picture: Clémentine California Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c) |
Clémentine California: An almost natural smell of Clementine, slight bitter but in the same time juicy sweet. Green notes like the leaves of the tree and also a cold, breezy impression. Compared to for example Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrèe CC is brighter and sharper in apperance, In MA the mandarine is wrapped in a soft, glowing amber.Strong and longlasting for belonging to the cologne subline, somewhere between Edt and Edp on my skin.
Picture: Café Tuberosa Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c) |
Further impressions from testing fragrances from Atelier Cologne will appear during the coming months.
söndag 30 september 2018
5 fragrances for Fall
Picture: From a walk in the hoods a crisp, sunny, autumn Sundaymorning 2018 Photo: Parfumista (c) |
The early autumn month of September has (almost) passed, most sunny and crisp. Probably it's therefore I still don't crave for the dark, thick and heavy frags in the oriental genre. Instead there are most lighter fragrances I've wearing during the last month, fragrances which at least some of them are good examples of transition fragrances:
Iris Rebelle (Atelier Cologne): This is my new favorite iris. Light with a very pleasant opening smelling of fresh baby carrots. Then a beautiful, clean iris appears, wrapped in smooth citric notes.
Nomade (Chloé): The best mainstream release this year , at least from the not so many I've smelled. Like a transparent and contemporary version of Jean Couturier Coriandre. Coriander and moss with a ceratin warmth added to it by delicate soft flowers and light spices. Incredible longevity for such a transparent styled creation.
Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille Edt (Annick Goutal): This is perhaps the messanger of the real autumn in the top 5. That even if the Edt of this elegant, dark, retro patchoulibased beuaty is more transparent than the Edp. A frag that boosts ones confidence. Full review (in swedish) here.
Café Tuberosa (Atelier Cologne): What a comforting beauty! A dark oriental floral with chypre vibes. The coffee and cacao are not sharp or sticky, they blends very balanced with the tuberose in a retrostyled accord. The tuberose dosen't stand out as a flower, it's just a part of the dark blend.
Fathom V (BeauFort): This damp, green, cold, watery, earthy creation reminds me of late winter/early spring but I crave this utterly intriguing composition for fall also. Full review here.
lördag 23 juni 2018
Midsummer 2018
Picture: Midsummerroses 2018 Photo: Parfumista (c) |
Midsummereve was yesterday. The summer solstice up here in the north is much celebrated and a national holiday. This year the weather (always a big question in Sweden) was quite good, rainy and cold (+9 C in the morning) and mostly sunny and quite warm in the afternoon followed by a chilly evening. The day was without rain, except in the morning.
This year (again) I didn't feel to wear florals to match the occasion. I couldn't think of any light high pitched flowery fragrance that was right for me. Instead I wanted something heavy, dark and dense so I went for Penhaligon's Halfeti, a dark rosy, dry spicy oud based fragrance inspried from the black shaded roses which is/was grown in the turkish town named Halfeti.
Picture: The black rose of Halfeti Photo: PR Penhaligon's |
Let's have a great summer 2018, combining the holidays with evaluation of the fragrance wardrobe!
Etiketter:
Halfeti,
midsummer,
Penhaligons,
Review-mini
måndag 7 maj 2018
Parfums de Nicolaï - Cap Néroli
Picture: Parfums Nicolaï Cap Néroli Photo: PR Nicolaï |
Cap Néroli is the new 2018 EDT from Parfums de Nicolï, a real favoritehouse of mine. Last years release was Rose Royale, a celebration to the pink roses of the palacegarden in the center of Paris. this year is celebrating néroli and what a celebration: This is not the usual soliflore niche stuff, this is lika a full fragrance, a bouquet of notes which makes one think that Cap Néroli doesn't belong to the soliflore genre.
Cap Néroli starts with an uplifting, cheering, burst of juicy, natural smelling full orange, like fresh oranges squeezed in the sun by noon on the terrace of a villa in chic mediterrain surroundings. The orange liquid squeezed is natural, with fruit fibres, tick and not diluted or sugared. This is the accords of a early summer sunny day bearing all the expectations of the wonderful days which will come. In the nexte stage a chilly green, minty note appears blended with a herbal touch. The orange becomes more elegant, restrained and sincere in this stage, the néroli oil appears. Also a dry, salty note enters, a note similar to sea salt and also the scent which reminding me of old school bath salts, in this stage Cap Néroli has left the soliflore stage and enters the domains of a more complex fragrance. The salty ant bath salty aspects are also apperant in Deco London Lawrence even if the latter is greener and colder in style, like an early summerday of the coast of Britan instead of the shores of the Mediterrain. Cap Néroli is grounded in oakmoss and musk an probably this is a part of the secret of the elegant retro feeling of the fragrance. The timeless elegant, green freshness could be the sign of the oakmoss and the herbs even if I guess that some of the typical Nicolaï geranium (think l'eau Chic) could be embedded in the base accord. During the whole drydown the slight herbal minty note gives Cap Néroli a certain sparkle and together with the salty note, offset the sweetness of the flowers of the fragrance. Compared to my other favorite Nicolaï neroli, Eau sOleil, Cap Néroli is brighter and higer on the fragrance note scale. Eau sOleil is the warm, glowing and slight spicy fragrance for the golden sunsets of the late summer, the orange of Eau sOleil is darker, with velvet nuances of gold and brown.
The overall impression of Cap Néroli is classic retro elegance, interpreted in a modern way. Cap Néroi is a modern take on the classic chypre accord, it's minimalistic and scaled down but still some of the moisty mossiness is there together the with retro salty, slight soapy cleanness and retro freshness, elegant freshness as in vintage Eau de Rochas. To me Cap Néroli as a whole is more of a formal summer fragrance, it goes well in the boardroom. Both the radiance and longevity are very good to be an EDT, Cap Néroli lasts for over twelve hours. The fragrance is unisex, just as good on my skin as on Mr Parfumistas even if my skin amplifies more of the orange notes and his the green, salty and herbal notes. This fragrance shouldn't be missed, its perfect for effortless elegance both in formal and casual chic summer gatherings.
Rating: 5
Notes: Petitgrain bigaride, orange, mandarine, rosemary, mint, neroli, ylang-ylang, jasmine, orangeblossom, oakmoss, musk
söndag 29 april 2018
Olfactory dessert
Picture: Olfactory dessert April 28, 2018 Photo: Parfumista (c) |
1) The frequently occurring comparison between two of Mr Parfumistas wardrobe staples Tom Ford Tuscan Leather (TL) and Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather (CL) similar in style but both definitly needed. The role model Tuscan Leather is darker, denser, thicker, with smokey, tobacco, leathery notes, like a well worn bikers leatherjacket. TL also reminds me of a polished sibling to Mona di Orios wild Les Nombres d'Or Cuir. When it comes to CL the weird thing is that I always smell the raspberry which is a note in the Tuscan Leather pyramide and not mentioned in the CL pyramide and in TL I can hardly smell the raspberry at all. CL is more transparent in style, with an uplifting citiric aura which is not smelling citrus, it's blended in the texture per se, adding some sparkle to the brew. The leather in CL is the fine and noble leather, the inside of an exclusive handbag.
2) The random fragrance theme, which just occuring, was yesterday triggerd by Mr Parfumistas testing of Parfums de Nicolaï new Cap Néroli. He really likes it and said he will rather wear it than "that sample I was thinking of maybe buying a FB of ". I immediately thought he ment MFK APOM Pour Homme which he has sampled lately but to my initial surprise, not when thinking twice, he brought out PFM Geranium pour Monsieur. Geranium is a note which is present in the typical Nicolaï "houseaccord", it's not mentioned in the notelist of Cap Néroli even if I suspect it's there as a part of the baseaccord. The other fragrance Mr Parfumista related to after a days wearing of Cap Néroli was Deco London Lawrence. Also a fragrance with a distinct dose of geranium, special and retro smelling, salty and dry like old-fashioned bath salts. These associations shows that one should not limit oneself to compare a certain fragrance to those in the same, in this case, neroli category, one should experience fragrances without any limitations in the mindset, which is hard to achieve.
And when it comes to Cap Néroli, a full review will follow probably after the next weekend when my birch pollen allergy hopefully has calmed down so I can smell and evalute this beautiful fragrance properly.
lördag 21 april 2018
Avicii
måndag 9 april 2018
Short impressions of some new fragrances
Picture: Stockholm Sergels Square, between NK and Åhléns, the two major departmentstores Photo: Borrowed from the KTH website |
Hermessence Agar Ebene (Hermès): A beautiful, high quality leather, first impressions of another Hermessence; Cuir d'Ange where Agar Ebene is fuller and more mature in its texture. Somehow I come to think of a nice and anxious leather, more "simple" in construction , not as complex and charcteristic as for example Chanel Cuir de Russie with its dry gunpowdery and light flowery notes. Unisex.
Hermessence Cedre Sambac (Hermès): A full and fruity, jasmine contrasted by the fresh, slight peppery cleanness of cedarwood. An intersting combination where the jasminenote reminds me about of the jasminedominated, white floral accord of Cacharel Scarlett but less sweet. Cedre Sambac is unisex, leaning to the feminine side.
Eau de Citron Noir (Hermès): Lemon with accompaning dry, smokey teanotes and slight peppery woody notes. Refreshing, without beeing clean in style, longlasting and with a good sillage taken ion consideration it's classified as an Eau de Cologne. Unisex leaning slightly to the masculine side.
Café Tuberosa (Atelier Cologne): Starts with thick tuberose, bergamot, blended with dry cacao and maybe a hint of coffee. It's a thick blend, vintage in style reminding me in texture and style of Vero Profumo Rozy. Later there are traces of the colognestyle with hints of citric notes.
Coco Mademoiselle Intense (Chanel): As a lover of Coco (Coco Noir) in all its incarnations, the Intense Mad inerpretation is just was I expected: A darker, denser, lower on the fragrance note scale then the regular Coco Mad. The patchouli is also more pronounced and the flowers subdued compared to the original. Even if similar to each other I need both variations....
Etiketter:
Agar Ebene,
Atelier Cologne,
Cacharel,
Café Tuberosa,
Cedre Sambac,
Chanel,
Coco,
Coco Mademoiselle Intense,
Coco Noir,
Cuir d'Ange,
Cuir de Russie,
Eau de Citron Noir,
Hermès,
Hermessence,
Review-mini,
Scarlett
måndag 5 mars 2018
Still winter....
Picture: Winter is still here... Photo: Mr Parfumista (c) |
Epidor (Lubin): Both Monday and Tuesday was cold, sunny days and Epidors sunny, hayish and light fruity apperance was both contrasting but also somehow matching as it has something like a cold string in it. This together with a distinct tonka been make me think of the original Dolce&Gabbana pour Homme when wearing Epidor.
Opium Edt (Yves Saint Laurent): The current, more woody version. But still cinnamon is evident as also the overall, varm, velvety and oriental spicy character. Opium warmed the whole cold, windy and snowy Wednesday up.
Prada La Femme Intense (Prada): An elegant, restrained, white and tropical flowers over a well-behaved patchouli is suitable in any climate or season. Added some casual elegance to my Thursday.
Najaf (Xerjoff): Craved for something dark and woody for Friday and a sample of Najaf caught my interest. Animalic, very woody, with the tangy, bitter but in the same time sort of fresh smell of oud.
Aromatic Elixir (Clinique): This bombastic, dry, rosy and woody chypre requires cold weather. A powerful and demanding fragrance, a classic which has stood the test of time. Unfortunately I was a bit too triggerhappy this time so I was on the verge to having headache on Saturday.
Jardin Blanc (Maître Parfumeur et Gantier): A beautiful white flower boquet where tubereuse is the major player flourished my Sunday. Well balanced, dense but not heavy, with chords of green and some animalic glimpses from the dept of the fragrance.
Etiketter:
Aromatic Elixir,
Clinique,
Epidor,
Jardin Blanc,
Lubin,
Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier,
Najaf,
Opium,
Prada,
Prada La Femme Intense,
Review-mini,
XerJoff,
Yves Saint Laurent
måndag 19 februari 2018
Rediscovering fragrances - Prada
This time of the year when the daylight returns and spring is just two months away, I start to crave for brighter and lighter fragrances. Last week I came to think of that I havn't worn my Pradas for ages. The Prada fragrances emphasize a chic, confident, minimalistic elegance, all recognizable as creations of the masterful perfumer Daniela Andrier:
Infusion d'Iris Edp (2007 version) is the perfect austere and elegant fragrance for springtime officewear. Of course this iris cold, clean, minimalist-orangeblossom soapy, contemporary classic is proper to wear during the year. I find it's character particularly suited for late winterdays, cold and snowy but bright and light, sometimes with the sun breaking through and the sunrays now strong enough to thaw the snow.
Infusion d'Iris Absolue is delicious, sweeter, darker and thicker in texture. A golden Iris glowing from resins, vanilla and tonka which creates an balsamic oriental iris supported by the orangeflowers as in the original. Somehow I get the impression of a delicate soft, fluffy almondcake in the later stages of the absolue. The elegant gourmand iris.
Infusion Fleur d'Oranger (2009 version) personally I feel more comfortable in this warm, sunny, elegant infusion than in the cold iris. Fleur d'Oranger is on the verge to soapy but it really doesn't passes the line. It is also less sweet than many contemporary styled orangeblossoms The fragrance has an almost vintage appearance without smelling like an old fashioned orangeblossomcentered perfume. Infusion Fleur d'Oranger is a captivating, wearable fragrance for daytime use.
L'Eau Ambrée balsamic, with light, cleaned up resins and amber which mingles with the faintest glimpses of flowers. The problem is that it seems as I'm partial anosmic to this fragrance. If applied quite liberally, I can smell the beautiful opening which reminds me of a bright and higher pitched variation of the comforting, in comparasion, dark and dense in texture Diptyque Volutes. L'Eau Ambrée is a fleeting but also haunting fragrance, when you think it's gone, it suddenly re-appears in its restrained elegance.
Picture: Prada Infusion d'Iris (2007) Photo: PR Prada (c) |
Picture: Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue Photo: PR Prada (c) |
Picture: Prada Infusion Fleur d'Oranger (2009) Photo: PR Prada (c) |
Picture: Prada L'Eau Ambrée Photo: PR Prada (c) |
måndag 12 februari 2018
Gucci - Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme
Picture: Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme Photo: PR Gucci (c) |
Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme (GGApF) starts with a juicy, very natural black berry and to my nose also black currant accord. Later on a purple rose accompanied by the green woody note of cypress, some glimpses from the leather in Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme (GGApH) and the dark patchoulinote shows up. Light rose pepper sparkles in the blend like glimpsing stars on the dark night sky in the middle of a cold winter. The pepper never goes peppery, it's just fizzy. The fruity notes are tangy and delicate, and not especially sweet. GGApF has some similarities with GGApH, the same woody notes, especially from the cypress and a smooth interpretation of the leather. GGApF has not the rough and though burnt rubbery notes of GGApH, instead it has those beautiful dark fruity, juicy notes blended with the rose which creates a plush feminine impression over the contrasting masculine woody notes.
GGApF could be worn both for day and night. It's a bit formal, it's not a casual, laid back fragrance, it's perfect for the office and for after work. It's a fragrance that builds confidence, in the same way as for example Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Edp and even more; Montana Parfum de Peau. Just as the fragrances mentioned, the longevity is great, silage not as big but medium.
GGApF is an excellent example of the new chypre style, less sweet than the usual ones and with its own juicy, dark blackberry character. Even if GGApF is an example of the new chypre style, wearing it somehow makes me think of, even if not smelling similar, the above mentioned grand chypre of the 80s Montana. GGApF:s character also reminds me of Sisley Soir de Lune which is also a great contemporary chypre but created in the classic style.
To me GGApF is one of the best releases for years in the womans section. I'm convinced this will be a classic just as GGApH.
Rating: 5
Notes: Blackberry, bergamot, pink pepper, rose, cypress, woody notes, amber, patchouli
måndag 5 februari 2018
Tauerville Stories Collection - Hyacinth and a Mechanic
Picture: Hyacinth and a mechanic Photo: PR Tauerville (c) |
Hyacinth and a Mechanic (HAM) starts with the most natural smelling hyacinth note that I've smelled so far from a perfum. When applicating the fragrance, a crisp, slight fresh green spicy, sparkling hyacinth appears, is just like entering a christmasdecorated house with hyacinths in the windows, out from the cold and snowy winterlandscape. Soon a oily, petrol and light metallic accord appears, followed by a rough leathernote, togehter contrasting the crisp hyacinth and green note. It's just like that the one who makes the entrance is coming directly from repairing the car in the garage, still wearing the overalls under a heavy leatherjacket with a curly sheepskin collar. The oily, metallic, leathery intensifies and an animalic vibe appears in the fragrance, the hyacinth is still recognizable as the unexpected contrast to such notes. Later in the drydown, the hyacinth steps forward again and during the whole dry down, the hyacinth alternate with the dirty accord of beeing the most prominent player. In the last aaccords of the basenotes, the hyacinth and the dirty accord finally seems to have blended in sort of an integrated accord.
HAM is fragrance of its own and there are no similar fragrance that I come to think of even if I imagine similar aspects in other fragrances. For example the chilliness of the hyacinth I also recognize in the cold hyacinth-iris accord of Serge Lutens beautiful Bas de Soie and to some extent also Tom Ford Vert de Fleur, the oily/metallic/petrol accord reminds me of some parts of Histoires de Parfums Petroleum but not at all as intense as the latter.
HAM is a complicated beauty, the contrasts are intriguing. In the same time it's a casual, easy to wear fragrance sort of relaxing and with an interesting development which makes one sniff the wrists regulary during the day. The sillage is medium in the first stage, then close to skin. Longevity is for a day. HAM is totally unisex to my nose.
Rating: 5
Notes: Hyacinth, animal notes, leather, woody notes
Etiketter:
Andy Tauer,
Bas de Soie,
Histoire de Parfums,
hyachinth,
Hyachinth and A Mechanic,
Petroleum,
Review,
Serge Lutens,
Tauerville Stories Collection,
Tom Ford,
Vert de Fleur
måndag 29 januari 2018
Top 5 Winterfrgrances 2018
Photo: Parfumista (c) |
It seems as the major perfumeblogs have posted the Top10 Winterfragrances 2018 lists. Here five fumes I enjoy during the colder months:
Volutes (Diptyque): Calming, comforting, warm aromatic with resins, spices, honey and tobacco. Close silage and de-stressing, a fragrance that could be worn even when feeling ill. My most worn frag this winter.
Tubéreuse (Maître Parfumeur et Gantier): A very green and dry tubereuse with grassy almost herbal nuances and a glimpse of a dill note in the first accords. A fragrance for sunny winterdays.
Magnolia Pourpre (Maître Parfumeur et Gantier): More of a soft powdery cold orchid than magnolia. Both seemless mixed with iris and rose. An excellent, elegant and retro fragrance.
Shalimar Edp (Guerlain): Current formula. What could be better a cold day than to wrap in the warm veil of vanilla, bergamot, iris, powder, leather and all the other wonderful notes of Shalimar.
Amber Mystique (Esteé Lauder): A balsamic rose with incense, light glimpses of oud, spices and berrys. Like a dark bourdeaux velvet cloak warming a cold winter evening.
måndag 22 januari 2018
A sunny winterwalk
Picture: Sunny fields Photo: Parfumista (c) |
Picture: Colder in the wood in the side of the small lake Photo: Parfumista (c) |
Picture: Soon the elves will start to dance ... Photo: Parfumista (c) |
Picture: Sun and haze over the small lake. Photo: Parfumista (c) |
Picture: Ice skaters Photo: Parfumista (c) |
måndag 15 januari 2018
Sunday shopping at Fragrance & Art
2018 should be my non buying perfume year expect from a few bottles. These bottles are already (almost) consumed. In the mailbox today Fragrance & Art announced there is a 50% Wintersale on some brands. Even if very priceworthy this Sunday became quite expensive as I bought the following frags:
Cendres de Thé Phaedon (old bottle): This is a fragrance in the style of Hermès Un Jardin après la Mousson but CdT is more minimalistic and dry in style.
Amorvero (Amorvero): This is a great retrostyled warm and elegant floraloriental with a warm floral heart of tubereuse, jasmin and rose. I have sampled the Edt. which is very good, now I couldn't resist buying the Edp which I hope is even better.
L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme (L'Artisan Parfumeur) This is a classic amber which is needed in a wellcurated fragrance wardrobe. Blind buy as I havn't tested the Extreme-version.
Sumatera (Coquillete): A special, soft, dry patchouli with discrete flowers and cinnamon. A very comforting and easy to wear.
Tan-Tan (Coquillete): Back up bottle for Mr Parfumista as he really likes the intriguing, green, tart figgyness of Tan-Tan. One of the very best fig frags imho.
Other good options in the sale are for example Coquillete Sulmona, Parfum d'Empire 3Fleurs, Iskander and Yuzu Fou, several fragrances from L'Artisan Parfumeur among them Al Oudh, Noir Exquis, Dzongkha, Dzing, Mon Numero 10 and Patchouli Patch.
Picture: Cendres de Thé in the old bottle Photo: PR Phaedon (c) |
Photo: PR Amorvero (c) |
Amorvero (Amorvero): This is a great retrostyled warm and elegant floraloriental with a warm floral heart of tubereuse, jasmin and rose. I have sampled the Edt. which is very good, now I couldn't resist buying the Edp which I hope is even better.
Picture: L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme in the old bottle Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c) |
L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme (L'Artisan Parfumeur) This is a classic amber which is needed in a wellcurated fragrance wardrobe. Blind buy as I havn't tested the Extreme-version.
Photo: PR Coquillete (c) |
Photo: PR Coquillete (c) |
Other good options in the sale are for example Coquillete Sulmona, Parfum d'Empire 3Fleurs, Iskander and Yuzu Fou, several fragrances from L'Artisan Parfumeur among them Al Oudh, Noir Exquis, Dzongkha, Dzing, Mon Numero 10 and Patchouli Patch.
Etiketter:
3Fleurs,
Amorvero,
Cendres de The,
Dzing,
Dzongkha,
Fragrance & Art,
Iskander,
L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme,
Mon Numero 10,
Patchouli Patch,
Review-mini,
Sulmona,
Sumatera,
Tan-Tan,
Un Jardin apres la Mousson,
Yuzu Fou
måndag 8 januari 2018
Rediscovering fragrances
Photo: Parfumista (c) |
From such exercise some short thoughts probably will appear in print over the year, even if I'm still in the writers block.
Here some rediscoveries from the recent holidays:
Rose Royale (Parfums de Nicolaï): This is an amazing pink rose where I now have discovered more of elegant, retro accords which make this beautiful rose intriguing too. It's much more than just a high quality pink rose.
Shanghai Lily (Tom Ford): A beautiful, velvety and in the same time tick and clean lily. The velvety thickness makes like this better than the other niche standard-lillies, Serge Lutens Un Lys and Frederic Malle Lys Mediterrranee, both more transparent and sort of "thinner" in texture.
Gucci Bloom (Gucci): Wet, humid, chilly, crisp, white flowers like a graden with withe flowers after rain. Moderate interpretation of white flowers, not the classic voluminous type, balanced with a tangy accord that I really like. Not a rediscovery as this is new to me but worn quite often in December.
fredag 5 januari 2018
Best of 2017 part 2
Picture: Gucci Guilty Absloute Photo: PR Gucci (c) |
Picture: Gucci Bloom Photo: PR Gucci (c) |
torsdag 28 december 2017
Best of 2017
I have little to say about the 2017 releases as most fragrances I've tested this year was created in 2016 or the years just before. I liked both of the two great releases in 2017 much.Versatile and elegant/playful fragrances: Chanel Gabrielle and Hermès Twilly. This year Carner Barcelona Floral Collection also was nice even if I liked the Black Collection from 2016 better. Puredistance Warzawa, with its muted, dark, green elegance, was released for the entire market 2017 but was actually released in 2016, exclusive for the polish market.
My choice of best of 2017 is the classic Colognehouse Roger & Gallet Extraits de Cologne line. The fragrances are created by different, famous or upcoming perfumers. Some of the extraits de Cologne are as an Eau de Toilette (Edt) in radiance and stregnth and other somewhere in between Cologne and Edt. My favorites are Néroli Facètie (Fabrice Pellegrin) and Cassis Frénésie (Elise Benat) even if Tubereuse Hédoine (Anne Flipo) Thé Fantaisie (Alberto Morillas) and Verveine Utopie (Juliette Karagueuzoglou) comes close. The line is very well done and priceworthy given the quality (100 ml GBP 55 ). Lovely fragrances, would be great for Springtime.
Picture: Best of 2017 Roger & Gallet Extraits de Cologne Photo: PR Roger & Gallet (c) |
söndag 24 december 2017
The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2017
Picture: Christmas tree 2017 Photo: Parfumista (c) |
Mr Parfumista is wearing Incense Extreme by Andy Tauer. A light "white" incense swirling to the sky even if intense in performance. Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last fourteen Christmas Eves:
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody)
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals)
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)
2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)
2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)
2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)
2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)
2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)
2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)
2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)
2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)
Let's have a Great Fragrant Christmas!
Let's have a Great Fragrant Christmas!
onsdag 6 december 2017
Independence Day
Picture: Finlands "Blue Cross Flag" Photo from Facts.co |
Today our beautiful neighbour Suomi-Finland is celebrating 100 years as an independent country. Congratulations Finland!
Thinking of Finland, I suddenly remembered there was some entertaining fragrant readings with finnish connection on Fragrantica a year or two ago. And here I found them, written by Eeva-Helena Laurinsalo.
Fragrant Finland: A Fresh Affair
And last but not least: Congratulations to my son who is celebrating his 15th birthday today!
Etiketter:
100 years,
Finland,
fragrances,
independence
måndag 27 november 2017
Fragrantica Perfume Awards
Picture: Fallen falleaves Photo: Parfumista (c) |
The awardcategories, submitted & voted by the Fragrantica community, are:
- Best Fragrance Of All Times for Women
- Best Fragrance Of All Times for Men
- Best Unisex Fragrance Of All Time
- The Worst Fragrance Of All Time
- Best Women's Fragrance Voted by Men
- Best Men's Fragrance Voted by Women
- Best Discontinued Fragrance for Women, Bring It Back!
- Best Discontinued Fragrance for Men, Bring It Back!
- The Legend of the Latest Decade for Women
- The Legend of the Latest Decade for Men
- Best Fragrance of 2017 for Women
- Best Fragrance of 2017 for Men
- Niche Fragrance of 2017
- Most Innovative Fragrance of 2017
- Perfume House Of The Year
- Best Perfume Bottle of 2017
- Best Perfume Flanker of 2017
- Most Underrated Fragrance
- Most Overrated Fragrance
- Best Fragrance for Hot Days
- Best Fragrance for Cold Days
- Fragrance with the Best Longevity
- Best Bargain Fragrance for Women
- Best Bargain Fragrance for Men
- R.I.P - Beloved Perfumes Murdered by Reformulation
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