Jul et Mad - Les White - Nin-Shar, Néa & Garuda

Les White is a separate collection of three oriental inspiered Extraits de parfum from Jul et Mad. Nin-Shar is created by Sidonie Lancesseur, Néa and Garuda by Luca Maffei. 

Picture: Nin-Shar
Photo: PR Jul et Mad (c)

Nin-Shar starts fruity-rosy with boozy elements. Soon woody, balsamic, incense notes joins where a wellbalanced oud and most of all, a distinct note of nagarmotha is present. As the boozy note steps back, the rose becomes sweeter and jammy. The nagarmotha accord softens in the basenote but taken as a whole, this together with the fruity, later jammy rose is the lasting impression of Nin-Shar. To me Nin-Shar is very close to a sweeter, fruitier version of the beautiful L'eau de Mumtaz i Mahal by Maison Nicolas de Barry which I personally slightly prefer. Nin-Shar is reported to be the bestseller in the trio.

Picture: Néa
Photo: PR Jul et Mad (c)

Néa Oriental-fruity-gourmand, the fruit in the heavy oriental style with  boozy dates, ripe peach, mango but also berries. Green notes balances the fruit as also a beautiful rose. The basenotes with resins, balsamic notes and musk creates a dept to the perfume. Even if intense with many powerful ingredients I percieve Néa as a perfume in the higher ocataves in the notescale. Néa is not at all cloying or heavy to wear, it is sparkling in some passages of its development, sometimes some green fizz break through with a note that smells something that I can imagine fresh harvested cardamom smells like. There is nothing chemical or sickenly sweet to Néa. it's a delicious pleasure to wear, comforting and relaxing. For those who likes the style of Eau d'Italie Graine de Joie and By Kilian Playing with the Devil.

Picture: Garuda
Photo: PR Jul et Mad (c)

Garuda Light fruity/nutty accentuated of a light smokey oud-wood with some behaved barnyard elements glimpsing through. The oudy - woody note is high and bright in the octaves compared with for example Perris Monte Carlo Bois d'Oud and Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud. This accord gets more woody in general and less oudy as Garuda developes. There are also a herbal. minty element that sparkels and adds almost a freshenss to the fragrance. I suspect there is also sandalwood involved, probably the warm, nutty elements comes from there. In the basenotes there is also a tangy, floral alomst mossy quality which has a resemblance to a green classical chypre accord but with a soapy twist. Garuda with its compexity and different faces is my favorite from the line.

Les White are perfect fragrances for the colder months, they envelope the wearer in warmth and smells delightful. Their style is ornamental, warm, golden and all will fit perfectly for the coming Christmas and New Years Holidays. All three fragrances are of very good quality, with close to medium sillage and good longevity. To my nose predominantly feminine in style.

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the samples to test

Maison Nicolas de Barry - L'Eau de Shah Jahan

Picture: Shah Jahan (1592-1666)
Wikimedia commons

Even if it's a true unisex fragrance, it's obvious to me that L'eau de Shah Jahan is cretaed to be the masculine counterpart to the beautiful and bombastic L'eau de Mumtaz i-Mahal which was reviewd earlier in December. Shah Jahan is just as the Mumtaz created by Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet.

L'eau de Shah Jahan also starts with the rubbery rose oil accord as Mumtaz i-Mahal but less dominating and distinct. Soon fruits pickled in a liqueur-brandy like accord appears, the rose steps backwards but is discretly present in the rest of the dry down. The boozy fruits is the distinguishing theme when Shah Jahan is compared with Mumtaz i-Mahal, both has the same characteristic sandalwood, oud and what I think is the note of nagarmotha as basenotes and "frame". And of course the fragrances should complement each other very close, just as Shah and his favorite wife Mumtaz once did. To me L'eau de Shah Jahan is a true oriental version, at least as I, from my limited experience with the Arabian Oud perfumed oils, imagine true orientals, of the western woody oriental Serge Lutens Boxeuses, which compared with Shah Jahan of course seems almost anorectic, but the pickled fruits and the boozy notes is a common theme. Another western styled woody oriental that comes to my mind when testing Shah Jahan is Parfums Delrae Bois de Paradis.

Picture: The sofisticated bottle of L'Eau de  Shah Jahan
Photo: PR Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

Shah Jahan has a distinct silage even if not as grand as the rosy Mumtaz i-Mahal. Longevity is just as the latter about 24h and Shah Jahan is also best for festive occasions or in very small doses, also for cold and grey winter days. This is not the fragrance for the workplace with the least tendency to scentophobia.

Rating: 4
This as I prefer the roses of the Mumtaz this one i 5 rated and Shah Jahan 4, but if I had preferred fruits better the rating would be reversed as the fragrances are so similar

Notes: Rose, sandalwood, oud

 As mentioned above I also recognize booze, fruits and nagarmotha


Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to try

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Maison Nicolas de Barry - L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal

Picture: Empress consort Mumtaz Mahal (1593-1631)
Mughal painting from 17th or 18th Century
Wikimedia commons

L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal is a deep, oriental-floral fragrance  created of  Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet for the perfumehouse of the former, Maison Nicolas de Barry which creates perfumes inspired from the history. Nicolas de Barry has also created the historic inspired line Les Parfums Historiques for Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier George Sand and La Reine Margot, which both also are released in the Maison Nicolas de Barry - line. Later i.e next year I'm planning to review those  (thanks to samples from Fragrance & Art) and compare to the MPG issues.

L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal, in the following LMM, is of course dedicated to the cause of the construction of  Tai Mahal - the beloved third wife (the favorite)  of indian ruler Shah Jahan,  Mumtaz Mahal.

LMM, starts with an accord of wonderful, rubbery, roseoil with some light green elements glimpsing through. This is the rubbery rose that is also present in Annick Goutal Rose Splendide but much more rich and dense in LMM and with less of the tart greenery of the Goutal. The rubbery rose is also present in Montale Tai'f Roses but less sweet and sharper. In the Montale I imagine the rose as medium red, in texture as a stiff silk fabric as in a robe form the 14-15th century, in LMM it's medium pink with a silk, velvet finish. As LMM developes a pleasant boozy element appears as also an well integrated spicyaccord. The beautiful blend is anchored in a base of smooth sandalwood which has nothing sharp or chemical about it, it smells like a smooth piece of sandalwood, polished with sandpaper.  I also smell a gentle oud and a note I think is nagarmotha from the base.

LMM has a tickness and dept which are rare in western perfumery today, even the most expensive nichefragrances seems thinned and volatile compared with LMM. LMM has similarities in the style and smell with some oils I have tried from Arabian Oud and also with the very good but not often mentioned Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Rose which is sort of a western styled diet variation of LMM. There is also a kinship in texture and expression with Vero Profumo Rozy Voile d'Extrait.

LMM is a fragrance for the colder months of the year but I can imagine it also blooms beautiful in the indian night. Silage is grand when applied but medium when dried down to the basenotes, longevity for 24h. A very special fragrance, strong and intensive, it has to be applied carefully. Great for festive occasions as for example New Years celebration.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, sandalwood (according to the notelist but I smell att least Spices, boozy notes oud and nagarmotha in the blend)