lördag 5 mars 2022

SOTD February 2022

Picture: A soft mossy carpet
Photo: parfumista (c)

Continuing the olfactory discovery trip from January, with a few spontaneuos reflections.

1. Cap Néroli Edt (Parfums Nicolaï) - Sunny high quality néroli.
2. Misia Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) - My favourite lipstick iris-rose-violet
3. Misia Edp (Chanel Les Exclusifs) - Also the Edp is perfectly balanced
4. Coco Edt (Chanel) - Reminds me of Krizia Teattro de la Scala.
5. 222 (Le Galion) - Calming sandalwood
6. No 5 Edt (Chanel) - Serious, serene, austere aldehydic, chalky, slight animalic. On my other arm:
    No 22 Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) to compare. Joyful and flirty, aldehydic, flowery, chalky, sunny,              trés chic. They are definitly siblings, No 5 the older, takes all responsibility, No 22 the younger              one, carefree, playing around.
7.  No 22 Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) Still trés chic.
8. Diorella Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version on my left wrist melon, peach and white flowers over a green       chypre base. An outdoor fragrance. On my other wrist:
    Diorama Edp (Dior Les Creations de Monsieur Dior) 2010s version: A cousin to Diorella, without       melon and with deeper plum and caraway instead of  the greenery. An indoor formal version. A             real wristsniffer.
9.Lady Vengeance ( Juliette Has A Gun) The prototype of a good contemporary rose patchouli, not sweet  with a natural medium pink rose. Still going strong.
10. Midnight Oud (Juliette Has A Gun) Opens with an animalic leathery accord, a dark, sultry rose appears in the dry down . Probably the real Lady Vengeance.
11. Dioressence Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version. Smells like rosewood, orange, smooth cinnamon, rose, violet, iris over patchouli oakmoss. Scent memories from my childhood.
12. Hypnotic Poison Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version dry vanilla milky almond with contrasting subtle flowers and an almost mossy base, balances the blend. So comfortable and warm in grey windy weather.
13. Oud Bouquet Edp (Maison Lancôme) Sweet, dark, milky vanilla and rose ( the typical slight powdery Lancome rose) over a contrasting balanced oud. Delicious and very long lasting
14. No 19 Edt (Chanel) Flawless, cold, clean and dry green iris boquet. 
15. Eau de Ciel Edt (Goutal) The smell of the dry grass of a sundrenched meadow a sunny and hot  slight breezy day in the high summer. The smell of hay. Very special and distinct, light application is needed even if an Edt.
16. Attar Edp (Montale) A quite early batch, pleasant to wear, humble, deep, woody, red rosy , no screachy or peppery notes. 
17. Peut-Être Edp (Maison Lancôme) 2020 version. An uplifting, airy, straight forward pink rose, so easy and uncomplicated to wear. Nice!
18.  L'Autre Oud Edp (Maison Lancôme) 2020 version. More depth than Oud Boquet, boozy, incense, dark red rose supported by a well balanced oud to something almost winey, like a ruby red port.
19. Orchid Leather Edp (Van Cleef & Arpels) The slight boozy, plummy, balsmic aspects are dominating during this wearing, not so much leather more of cold spicy accents.
20. Leather Oud Edp (Maison Christian Dior) The electric smell of dust on a varm bulb (also present in fragrances as Mona di Orio carnation and Tèo Cabanel Kaspar) over a boozy accord almost as soaked in a dry plumliqueur and with a slight animalic touch. 
21. Gucci Oud Edp (Gucci) A darker woodier variation of Gucci by Gucci with the characteristic raspberry/rose combo sweetness  that is present in many contemporary fragrances.
22. Angel Edp (Mugler) The honeyed dark chocolade notes over that special clean, stripped down patchouli are still unique after almost 30 years. My bottle from ca 2007, the liquid  is still bright blue, stored under dark and cool conditions.
23. Angel Edp (Mugler) On repeat today, in a lighter dose, almost aquatic notes emerges and the fractioned patchouli.
24. La Vierge De Fer  Edp (Serge Lutens) The beautiful innocent white lily meets cold steel and incense, an olfactory illustration of this dark day.
25. Boxeuses (Serge Lutens) Subtle leather with dark plum sweet contrasted with some dry spicey notes. Discreet despite its name. 
26.Cristalle Edt (Chanel)  the symbol of true casual chic sunny cold green lemon perfect for a sunny winterday
27. Chance Eau Tendre Edp (Chanel) Light rosy musky cold sort of  D&G Light Blue fresh feeling even if not smelling alike.
28.  Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Fresh, happy, sparkling and warm neroli/orange/citrus with its own twist, something that reminds me of the smell of orange and citrus hard candy pastilles. A contemporary orangeblossom.

Conclusion: Chanelfragrances seems to be the most worn in February. So glad I re-discovered the original Angel after neglecting it for years.