Eau d'Italie - Un Bateau pour Capri

Picture: Overlooking Capri harbor from
the rotunda in Villa San Michele
Photo: Morn the Gorn (cc) Wikipedia Commons.,
some rights reserved

Un Bateau pour Capri is an Eau d'Italie fragrance inspired from the neighbourhood of Positano, the beautiful Island Capri. The fragrance is composed by Jacques Cavallier. When it comes to Capri I remember, many years ago, I almost missed the boat from Capri, strolling around in Villa San Michele, built around the turn of the century 1900, for the highsociety physican and philantrophe Axel Munthe, (sometimes called "the swedish Rasputin" as the gossip said he almost spellbound the swedish Queen consort Victoria at the time. Anyway, they were friends and had some Capri-projects about taking care of animals together.) When I was aware of that the bus had left for the harbour, I had the great luck to find a cab up there on the mountin and after a fast ride I caught the ferry and could re-join to our group just in the last minute. Now, over to the Capri inspired fragrance: Un Bateau pour Capri.

Un Bateau pour Capri starts with an aldehydic, fruity, fizz with an almost hairspray like tonality. There is also a cold, watery flowercomponent supporting, probably the peony brightened up with the freesia. Soon also a tart note appears, creating a contrasting, sort of deep freshness of the fragrance. The tart accord is following through the whole fragrance and deepens when it mingles with the woody-musky base. This tart fruity/woody aldehydic note is prounonced and what makes UBpC characteristic. The note is almost off-putting but in the same time somehow pleasant and this is what makes UBpC interesting. In the drydown, UBpC is much more floral, a dark, dense, rose-jasmine accord and despite a distinct cedarnote, the fragrance is very feminine in its expression. The rose-cedar accord remins me of my favorite Eau d'Italie fragrance so far, Pasteum Rose, which is morse unisex in style than UBpC. The aldehydic fizz is present even in the base but in dark and slight soapy way. When wearing Un Bateau pour Capri, besides Pasteum Rose, two fragrances especially  comes to my mind: Esprit d'Oscar by Oscar de la Renta for the aldehydes in the first stages of the perfume and Perles de Lalique for the cedar-rose combo, even if the cedarnote is much more prominent in the latter.

Picture: Map of Capri. Uses terrain data from SRTM3
Author: modified by Morn the Gorn (cc)
 Wikipedia Commons, some rights reserved

Despite the aldehydes and the darkness of Un Bateau pour Capri, the fragrance is refreshing worn a warm summerday, maybe in the restful shadows from the threes in the garden of Villa San Michele. If Un Bateau pour Capri had a color it would be dark blue shifting in purple as the Mediterrean sky at
dusk. Un Bateau pour Capri is casual chic in style, appropriate for a holiday on Capri and the Amalficoast. Sillage and longevity are both outstanding for this fragrance, it lasts for more than 24 hours. UBpC is also approved by Mr Parfumista who complemented it in different phases of the dry down, such statement is quite rare taking in account the many fragrances I test.

Rating: 5

Notes: Peony, freesia, peach, rose, jasmine, heliotrophe, musc, wood, cedar

Chanel Les Exclusifs - Chanel No 22

Picture: Greta Garbo in a publicity still for Wild Orchids (1929)
Photo by Ruth Harriet Louise for Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer studio, (this
work is in the public domain) Wikimedia commons

A softer, more flowery version of the icecold, aldehydic, marbel beauty Chanel No 5 that was released 1921, a year before Chanel No 22. Both these classics were created of Ernest Beaux (as usual when it comes to the oldest Chanels). The No 22 I have tested is the Edt-version from the Les Exclusifs Collection and it’s of course just in the case with No 5 reformulated since 1922.

No 22 starts with an elegant, subdued white floral but sparkling aldehydic accord, reminiscent of No 5 but softer and somehow less aggressive even if a huge dose of delicate aldehydes. After a while the dry, gunpowder note that I appreciate so much in different strengths and interpretations, comes through. It’s a smooth and finetuned version of the gunpowder of Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige, Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Ambre and Antonio Visconti Temps d’Hiver. The white flowers, with a note of tubereuse with a light and pleasant almost nailpolishnote coming forward, is still there and now and then a slight tart, orange-citrusy note glimpses by. When No 22 settles down in a slight powdery, soft incense base where a light, fresh vetivernote, balanced some sweetness, is clearly present. In the later stages of the basenotes, the smooth incense becomes clearer as also the dry, almost transparent vanillanote.   

Chanel No 22 is a seamless blend with a timeless, sophisticated, elegance, a fragrance for a timeless beauty like Greta Garbo. It’s a fragrance which makes most of the contemporary perfume selection to appear as rude and loud. Even the elegant Chanel No 5 seems a bit unpolished compared to the most refined No 22. It’s like No 5 could be imaged as the pushy, extrovert older sister and No 22 as the quiet, intellectual and refined little sister. Chanel No 22 has an almost regal aura and I can see it be worn by a royalty by some reception. It’s a real pleasure to wear and a fragrance that makes me think of cleaning out considerably in my fragrance collection. Sillage is close and longevity almost for 24h.

Those who like interpretations of aldehydic, powdery, elegant fragrances as for example Puredistance Opardu, MDCI Chypre Palatin, Montale Powder Flowers and Oscar de la Renta Esprit d’Oscar will probably also like Chanel No 22.

Rating: 5 

Notes: Aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, peach, jasmine, tubereuse, ylang-ylang, rose, iris, vetiver, vanilla, incense

Lanvin – Arpége

Picture: Gedenktafel 10707 Berlin-Wilmersdorf, Zähringerstraße 13,

 Wohnung der Tänzerin Anita Berber

Photo: Wikinaut (cc) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

Sometimes when testing all these well behaved and well adjusted contemorary niche and designerhouse fragrances I as a contrast just want to smell something wild, old fashioned and provocative to the average perfumeconsumer of today (from my preconception). Than the classical aldehydic bomb Arpége from Lanvin is a fragrance that will fit the bill. Before spritzing I have to prepare Mr Parfumista (it’s usually during weekends I wear severe classics like this) that today I will wearing an “old ladies scent”, I hate this expression but it well illustrates a certain category of mostly classic fragrances from which I like many, that he wil not like the smell etc. If not warned he sometimes I have found that he becomes a bit irritated as he don’t like the smell from Arpége and it’s companions on me anyway, because the comment is always “It not suit you and maybe there is something with the chemistry because it’s ok on the scentstrip”. Maybe the old aldehydes and chypres dosen’t suit me the best but anyway I sometimes long for them and want to smell them as they are interesting and difficult creatures to discover.

Arpége (the latest Edp-formulation in the black bottle) starts with a strong aldehydic blast that almost knocks my nose out. The aldehydes are somehow robust, rough and demanding in Arpége, in Chanel No 5 Edt they are more gracile and even more and also champangeny bubbly in Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere and Esprit d’Oscar by Oscar de la Renta. In the middle the aldehydes withdraws but are defintly still there supporting the dark decadent flowers with an uplifting sparkle. Something almost dark and dense leathery also apperars in the backround in this stage and it’s discreetly present even thereafter.

In the basenotes a dark and wet vetivernote that mediates a dark green almost mossy impression dominating. The vetiver reminds me of the dense and dark accord Encre Noire by Lalique and Route de Vetiver by Maître Parfumerur et Gantier, both gendered as masculine fragrances. As I remember it, the vetiver is more prounanced in this Arpége formulation compared to the one before in the transparent bottle where the mossy, woody notes were much more apparent. But the same expression dark, mossy, woody texture and image of the fragrance is preserved. To me Arpége is feminine but it’s also unisex, the opening aldehydic accord leaning at the feminine side but when reaching the basenotes it’s whichever.

Arpége was created 1927 by the perfumer Andre Fraysse in collobaration with Jeanne Lanvins daughter Margurite as a gift from Jeanne to celebrating the thirtieth birthday of her daughter. But tom me Arpége don’t exactly mirrors the elegant enviorment of the mother and daughter Lanvin rather to me it mirrors the decadant setting of the 1920s legendary cabarets and nightclubs in Berlin. Arpége is THE fragrance for the 1920s wild artist Anita Berber , the predesessor to artists as Madonna and Lady Gaga.

Arpége is an interesting fragrance, a darker, warmer, woodier and rougher than Chanel No 5 It has stood the test of time and reformulations very good. Even if a bit oldfashioned it’s in the same time eternal and a great frag to wear when the urge to wear something different that stands out from the clean, floral, fruity, patchouli, peppery, woody, odors of  contemporary perfumes. Arpége is also resonable priced especially compared to new launches and it definitly provides value for money.

Rating: 4 (on me if positive a 3, but considerating the history and peculiarity of the fragrance, the character the ability to create images and the smell on the sample strip, all together a 4)

Notes:  Bergamot, aldehydes, peach, orangeflower, honeysuckle, orris, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, coriander, sensitive plant, tuberose, violet, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla,musk

Oscar de la Renta - Live in Love

Picture:Flower of Nelumbo nucifera, bean of India
Photo by T Voelker, (CC) some rights reserved, Wikimedia commons

Live in Love is an elegant, easy to wear, daytime green floral created for Oscar de la Renta by three perfumers in colaboration: Jean-Marc Chaillan, Carlos Benaim and Ann Gottlieb.

Live in love, despite its notes of classic though green notes as bergamott, hyacinth and galbanum, starts as a modern, fresh, clean green floral but without either the detergent note or the "just climbing out from the shower"freshness. The flowers are bright but not weak in appearence and there is also a complementing, subdued fruitiness present. All together this creates a watery impression, as of waterflowers in a pond. There is similarities with ByKilian Water Calligraphy and with the overall impression of Bulgari Omina Coral even if that one is much more fruity and sharp compared to the better balanced Live in Love.

After a while a shining almost incenselike note appears and starts to interact with the wet florals and their supprting slight fruity notes. This incensenote create an interesting contrast to the fruity notes and helps to put them forward. The incense like note I think is a subdued ginger and maybe traces of soft cedarwood (if looking at the notelist anyway).A very successful ginger interpretation as ginger often is too screamy, bubbeling andspritzy, almost as an overdose of  freshly minced white pepper.This interesting and appealing interaction between the "incense" and the fruity-floral notes goes on duirng the middlenotes and as the ginger tunes down the flowery/fruity notes lands in a pleasant woody, musky base.

Live in Love with it's sort of unsweet elegant slight fruity,wet floral, green notes and the classical ingredients (galbanum, hyacinth, bergamot) interpreted in a modern way is the perfect officescent suitable year around but especially for spring, summer and the early autumn. It's present but quite close to the wearer and can't offend (almost) anyone. The longevity is great,it lasts for 24h.

Live in Love is an evidence that good "mainstream"/designerfragrances could be created today also. It's seems that Oscar de la Renta has revived some of it's former glory in perfume especially with the launch of the beautiful aldehydic composition Esprit d'Oscar but also Live in Love is a good example of what could be created if the intention is there. The coming Essential Luxuries seems also very interesting and I hope I get the opportunity to smell them later on.

Live in Love could be appreciated for the fans of the fragrances mentioned above but also for those who like Dior Escale à Pondichery, Gala de Dia (review in swedish) by Loewe and By Kilian Bamboo Harmony.

Rating: 4

Notes: Hyacinth, galbanum, bergamot, lily-of-the-valley, orchid, jasmine, orange flower, rose sandalwood, cedar, woodsy notes, amber, musk

Chanel - No 19 Poudre

Bild: Iris aphylla Foto: Jerzy Opioła (cc)

some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons

Jag vet, som parfymtyckare "ska" man inte vara positiv Chanel No 19 Poudre. En sådan blek och obalanserad komposition jämfört med gamla hederliga Chanel No 19. En ren pastisch på några andra dofter på marknaden, dessutom med kort hållbarhet under dagen. Skapad av seniorerna Polge (och ibland nämns även Sheldrake som medkreatör) som enligt vissa har tappat känslan och är helt ur tiden. Även andra är inte heller så positiva. Det finns faktiskt andra positiva, recensioner i bloggosfären också men om några av de "stora" är negativa så brukar många andra följa efter.

Kanske jag fäst mig vid de negativa reviewerna eftersom jag, mot förväntan, efter att ha läst dem, gillar Chanel No 19 Poudre. Egentligen kanske jag inte ska uttala mig i en review då jag bara "lätt-testat" No 19 Poudre; två sprits på vrist/underarm + på sticka från affären. Poudre inleds med irisnot, lite lätt morot skymtar på mig och sedan kommer en i mitt tycke ganska rejäl dos av apelsinblomma. En grönhet av någon slags galbanum light finns, det är inte den stränga, klassisika galbanumen som märks i Chanel No 19. Blommigheten fortsätter med jasmin och iris som landar i en myskig bas med lätta tonkabönanoter. Tonkan till trots tycker inte jag att Poudre är särskilt pudrig under hela sin utveckling. Däremot har den en lätt aldehydisk känsla och vissa aldehyder är just pudriga. Kritiken om att Poudre är fantasilös och bara en mix av redan existrande storsäljare kan jag i och för sig hålla med om. För visst finns där Infusion d'Iris, lite Infusion de Fleur d'Orangers, lite Bas de Soie och en textur som påminner om Esprit d'Oscar. När det gäller släktskapet till  Chanel No 19 så tycker jag att de inte är särskilt lika, det är två gröna tolkningar med iris. Jag tycker inte heller att de behöver vara lika, som jag förstår det har man av komersiella skäl lånat No 19:s gångbara namn precis som i fallen Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere och i Cristalle Eau Verte. Den förra har ganska stora likheter med Chanel No 5 medan den senare är en egen doft, precis som Poudre. Hållbarheten anser jag inte att det är något fel på, på doftstickan håller den tämligen ofragmenterad över en vecka. Jag tycker inte heller att Poudre klappar i hop och att allt som blir kvar är en modern, vit myskighet. Det som jag bär med mig är ljus iris, neroli och mysk.

Summa sumarum är Chanel No 19 Poudre en elegant, glad och bärbar doft. Perfekt parfym om dagen i till exempel jobbsammanhang.

Betyg: 4+

Noter: Neroli, galbanum, mandarin, iris, jasmin, vetiver, mysk, tonkaböna.

Snart dags för höstens dofter

Rent olifactoriskt, men självklart inte annars, längtar jag redan till hösten. I väntan på att luktsinnet ska återvända har jag drömt mig bort bland kommande eller alldeles nya releaser. Och jag inser redan att hösten kommer att innebära flera svåra val och att den kan bli dyr. Det finns tyvärr alltför mycket intressant. Som:

Jag går helt i spinn över Mona di Orios kommande lanseringar i sin Les Nombres d'Or - serie: Oud som tydligen ska använda äkta oud till skillnad får de flesta andra som huvudsakligen använder syntetisk oud. Mona har parat ouden med osmanthus istället för som i normalfallet, ros. Tydligen en limiterad utgåva så prislappen lär inte vara nådig! Utöver ouden så lanseras tre andra dofter: Vétyver, Tubéreuse och Vanille: Eftersom jag är mer än förtjust i Monas stil och älskar tuberose och har en stark dragning mot vanlij så kan det bli otroligt jobbigt. Vetiver är inte min starka not, däremot herr Parfumistas.

Utöver Monas releaser, så finns fler frestelser som Annick Goutals Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille med noter av plommon, viol och patchoulli har jag kapitulerat för bara av beskrivningen. Sedan är det Serge Lutens/Christopher Sheldrakes Vitriol d'Oeillet som pockar på uppmärksamhet. Doften baseras på rosa nejlika och även om nejlika inte är min favoritnot så är jag ganska säker på att den i SL/CS blir något extraordinärt. Sedan fruktar jag att By Kilans avslutande dofter i sin Arabian Nights kollektion en med mysk och en med ambra har premiär i höst.

Även på designerdoftssidan händer ovanligt mycket intressant: Chanel No 19 Poudre som ska vara en modern tolkning av underbara No 19 är jag minst sagt ivrig att testa. Både Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere och Cristalle Eau Verte var lyckade dofter inspirerade av respektive klassiker så allt talar för Poudre. Sedan kommer Prada med en intressant avvikelse från sin hittills strikta, minimalistiska stil: Candy som ska vara en pudrig mysk med godisnoter, gjord av högkvalitativa ingredienser i en ny balans. Låter intressant med tanke på att Prada inte brukar ge ut något skräp. Sedan lockar Oscar de la Rentas Esprit d'Oscar som ska vara en modern tolkning av den klassiska Oscar som jag tyckte så mycket om på det glada åttiotalet men som sedan degenererats genom reformulering.

Det ser alltså ut att bli en tuff höst för både näsa och plånbok. Vilka dofter ser du fram emot att prova?