SOTD February 2022

Picture: A soft mossy carpet
Photo: parfumista (c)

Continuing the olfactory discovery trip from January, with a few spontaneuos reflections.

1. Cap Néroli Edt (Parfums Nicolaï) - Sunny high quality néroli.

2. Misia Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) - My favourite lipstick iris-rose-violet

3. Misia Edp (Chanel Les Exclusifs) - Also the Edp is perfectly balanced

4. Coco Edt (Chanel) - Reminds me of Krizia Teattro de la Scala.

5. 222 (Le Galion) - Calming sandalwood

6. No 5 Edt (Chanel) - Serious, serene, austere aldehydic, chalky, slight animalic. On my other arm:

    No 22 Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) to compare. Joyful and flirty, aldehydic, flowery, chalky, sunny,              trés chic. They are definitly siblings, No 5 the older, takes all responsibility, No 22 the younger              one, carefree, playing around.

7.  No 22 Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) Still trés chic.

8. Diorella Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version on my left wrist melon, peach and white flowers over a green       chypre base. An outdoor fragrance. On my other wrist:

    Diorama Edp (Dior Les Creations de Monsieur Dior) 2010s version: A cousin to Diorella, without       melon and with deeper plum and caraway instead of  the greenery. An indoor formal version. A             real wristsniffer.
9.Lady Vengeance ( Juliette Has A Gun) The prototype of a good contemporary rose patchouli, not sweet  with a natural medium pink rose. Still going strong.
10. Midnight Oud (Juliette Has A Gun) Opens with an animalic leathery accord, a dark, sultry rose appears in the dry down . Probably the real Lady Vengeance.
11. Dioressence Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version. Smells like rosewood, orange, smooth cinnamon, rose, violet, iris over patchouli oakmoss. Scent memories from my childhood.
12. Hypnotic Poison Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version dry vanilla milky almond with contrasting subtle flowers and an almost mossy base, balances the blend. So comfortable and warm in grey windy weather.

13. Oud Bouquet Edp (Maison Lancôme) Sweet, dark, milky vanilla and rose ( the typical slight powdery Lancome rose) over a contrasting balanced oud. Delicious and very long lasting

14. No 19 Edt (Chanel) Flawless, cold, clean and dry green iris boquet. 

15. Eau de Ciel Edt (Goutal) The smell of the dry grass of a sundrenched meadow a sunny and hot  slight breezy day in the high summer. The smell of hay. Very special and distinct, light application is needed even if an Edt.
16. Attar Edp (Montale) A quite early batch, pleasant to wear, humble, deep, woody, red rosy , no screachy or peppery notes. 

17. Peut-Être Edp (Maison Lancôme) 2020 version. An uplifting, airy, straight forward pink rose, so easy and uncomplicated to wear. Nice!

18.  L'Autre Oud Edp (Maison Lancôme) 2020 version. More depth than Oud Boquet, boozy, incense, dark red rose supported by a well balanced oud to something almost winey, like a ruby red port.

19. Orchid Leather Edp (Van Cleef & Arpels) The slight boozy, plummy, balsmic aspects are dominating during this wearing, not so much leather more of cold spicy accents.

20. Leather Oud Edp (Maison Christian Dior) The electric smell of dust on a varm bulb (also present in fragrances as Mona di Orio carnation and Tèo Cabanel Kaspar) over a boozy accord almost as soaked in a dry plumliqueur and with a slight animalic touch. 

21. Gucci Oud Edp (Gucci) A darker woodier variation of Gucci by Gucci with the characteristic raspberry/rose combo sweetness  that is present in many contemporary fragrances.

22. Angel Edp (Mugler) The honeyed dark chocolade notes over that special clean, stripped down patchouli are still unique after almost 30 years. My bottle from ca 2007, the liquid  is still bright blue, stored under dark and cool conditions.

23. Angel Edp (Mugler) On repeat today, in a lighter dose, almost aquatic notes emerges and the fractioned patchouli.

24. La Vierge De Fer  Edp (Serge Lutens) The beautiful innocent white lily meets cold steel and incense, an olfactory illustration of this dark day.

25. Boxeuses (Serge Lutens) Subtle leather with dark plum sweet contrasted with some dry spicey notes. Discreet despite its name. 

26.Cristalle Edt (Chanel)  the symbol of true casual chic sunny cold green lemon perfect for a sunny winterday

27. Chance Eau Tendre Edp (Chanel) Light rosy musky cold sort of  D&G Light Blue fresh feeling even if not smelling alike.

28.  Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Fresh, happy, sparkling and warm neroli/orange/citrus with its own twist, something that reminds me of the smell of orange and citrus hard candy pastilles. A contemporary orangeblossom.

Conclusion: Chanelfragrances seems to be the most worn in February. So glad I re-discovered the original Angel after neglecting it for years.

Random sampling

Sometimes it feels like I'm invaded by samples they are just everywhere but of course when I want to test a particular one, it's almost always disappered. Here some impressions from some I random caught lately:

Picture: Gin Fizz
Photo: Lubin (c)

Gin Fizz (Lubin): Not as juniper accentued as Penhaligons' Juniper Sling, Gin Fizz concentrates on the citrus slice of the surface of the drink. Light, sunny and bright, a pleasant contemporary (even if originally created 1955 inspired of Grace Kelly, reconstructed 2009) citrusfragrance with a smooth hint of detergent but in a good way. Gin Fizz reminds me of a favorite in the genre, Dior Homme Cologne in the white bottle.

Picture: Au Coeur du Désert
Photo: Tauer Parfums (c)

Au Couer du Désert (Tauer): Starts like a denser L'Air du Désert Marocain then transfers to a phase which smells like a smooth and embedded version of the rough, smokey leather of Etat Libre D'Orange Rien. Later on A Couer transforms to a phase of a balsamic, glimmering, golden, velvety vetiver together with a warm, ambery, salty ambregris. An intriguing and beautiful fragrance.

Picture: Tuscan Leather
Photo: Tom Ford (c)

Tuscan Leather (Tom Ford): Impressions from Mr Parfumista who tested this and compared it to a favorite leather of him, Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather. Tuscan Leather is smokey, like a smokey but in the same time smooth as suede, vetivernote. The leathernote is very similar to Colonia Leather as also the raspberrynote. Over all Colonia Leather is drier, brisker and sort of higher (as high up in the crispy, chilly air), Tuscan Leather is darker, smoother, sweeter and sort of warm resinous.almost sort of chewing gummy.

Picture: Moonlight Patchouli
Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels (c)

Moonlight Patchouli (Van Cleef & Arpels): A velvety and in the same time cold white rose supported by a dark patchouli and earthy iris. It just like the dark, black winter sky with an almost white moon and millions of twinkling, diamondlike stars. A contemporary chypre as its best. Somehow Moonlight Patchouli featuering patchouli in a similar way as Perris Monte Carlo Essence de Patchouli, there is something similar in the dark, slivery, mysterious expression.

Téo Cabanel - Julia

Picture: Our new Swedish royalty HRH Princess Sofia
on her weddingday 13 June 2015.
Photo: From the press, avaible from many sources on internet

Julia is one of the first three releases (together with Alahine and Oha) when the old, venerable house of Téo Cabanel was re-launched in 2005. Julia is a re-working of inhouse perfumer Jean-Francois Latty of an older Julia formula, which I think I read somewhere was worn by Wallis, Duchess of Windsor who was a customer of Téo Cabanel in the most glorious days of the house.

Julia starts with a tangy accord of rhubarb and blackcurrant, notes thst could be harsh and sharp but obviously not in the skillfull hands of Latty. The accord feels. juicy and sunny which offsets the cold hyacinth dominated, flowery accord which is the heart of the fragrance. The hyachinth is supported by classical flowers as violet and jasmine and a plesant raspberry sweetness which supports the hyachinth-violet in the same discrete way as the iris is supported by the same berry in Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris. The raspberry and the rhubarb adds a contemporary touch to a, taken as a whole, timeless fragrance. The basenotes are elegant, woody, musky slight balsamic and matches the floral, tangy structure of Julia very well.

Picture: Julia
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel

Julia is a fragrance which suits very well for formal daytime summer dressing, it's a fragrance which intermediates confidence and exquisite taste. It´s discrete but in the same time clearly present, a very versatile perfume. Would be a good choice for a royalty like for example our new Princess Sofia for daytime representation. Longevity is good, for at least a day and sillage is medium.

Fragrances that comes to my mind (in style and apperance, they don't smell the same) when wearing Julia are Van Cleef and Arpels First and Purdistance Antonia.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarine, rhubarb, black currant, hyachinth, violet, jasmine, raspberry, musk, sandalwood, labdanum, incense

Van Cleef & Arpels - Un Air de First

Picture: Jasminum sambac 'Grand Duke of Tuscany'
Photo: Scott Zona (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons

Un Air de First is a new interpretation by perfumer Nathalie Gracia-Cetto to celebrate the 35th anniversery of the first Van Cleef & Arpels fragence, the classic First created by Jean-Claude Ellena.

Un Air de First is a proper name for this fragrance, it is airier and cleaner than the original during the whole developement of the fragrance. It starts aldehydic, flowery, green but the flowers are fruity and bright compared to the soapy and heavier flowers of First. I also pervieve the flowers of Un Air de First as perdominantly clean and white (even the rose is white) wheras Firsts flowers are heavier and with a higher degree of yellow flowers. Pretty soon in the drydown, a note that almost smells like fresh tobacco appears in  Un Air de First. Galbanum is als glimpsing but not as noticable as in First. Later on the tobacco is lit and a clean note of cigarettesmoke appears accompanying the jasmine. The notemix is not at all dirty as in Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmine et Cigarettes but it's not as dry and subtle as in M.Micallef Royal Vintage, it's more round and fruity. Un Air de First continues to dry down in a lipsticky, aldehydic flowery manner and is underscored by a musky slight woody base.

Picture. Un Air de First
Photo: PR Van Cleef & Arpels (c)

Un Air de First has succeded to perserve the spirit of the original, just as Balmain with the new interpretation of Ivoire where the new version is fruitier and brighter than the original. The fact that the spirit of First is perserved is also proved by Mr Parfumistas comments about a " much too ladylike scent". I think Un Air de First is sort of contemporary ladylike and as it's very strong, one have to be careful with application, it is not airy=light. The sillage is great and as also the longevity, about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Galbanum, Peach, Fruity Notes, Jasmine, Rose, Green Notes, Vetiver, White Musk

Van Cleef & Arpèls - Feerie Edt

Picture: April Love
Painting by Arthur Hughes ca 1855
Wikimedia Commons

Today a fragrance on the other side of the violet-scale compared to Mona di Orio Violette Fumée reviewed in the latest entry. Feerie Edt is a follower to the first violet-candy installement of Van Cleef & Arpèls Feerie Edp. Have not tested the Edp so I can't compare the two versions. Feerie Edt is created by Olivier Pescheaux, the first Edp Feerie by Antoine Maisondieu. Just as the Edp, the Edt also has a beautiful cap with a Feerie, here sitting down, flying on the Edp-cap. Also the glasssection of the bottle is a little gem.

Feerie starts fruity and sweet, too sweet to my taste, but on the other hand, my seven years old daughter likes it :-). When the topnotes fades, the whole creation calms down and the violet flower takes the centerstage, supported by its faithful companion: The Rose. The fruitiness is still there but is not as dominating as in the first stage of Feerie, here it's balanced with the flowers and the result is an enjoyable candy-floral which is airy and subtle in structure even if I also can smell some faint, cool, earthy whiffs when reaching the soft musky, woody base. Compared to the sweetness of Violette Fumée, Feerie interprets a sweetness from the violet flower leaves whereas Violette Fumées sweetness seems to appear from the resins in the base. Feerie is an example of a light, cheering and happy fragrance whereas Violette Fumée is a dark, contemplative and introspective fragrance.

Picture: The charming Feerie Edt bottle
Photo: PR Van Cleef & Arpels (c)

Feerie is balmy and chic and suits all seasons exempt from the coldest winter and this fragrance is one of those hidden gems among the "mainstream" offerings.  The sillage is medium as a average, even if the the opening is grand, (applying sparingly is to recommend) and so is also the longevity, traces are still there after 24 h.

Feerie is the perfect fragrance for those who want a fruitier take on light violetscents such as Annick Goutal La Violette and Parfums de Nicolaï Violette in Love. Those who likes Historiae Violette Imperiale will probably also appreciate Feerie.

Rating: 3

Notes: Violet leaves, lemon, grapefruit, violet, rose, jasmin, sandelwood, benzoin, musk

Guerlain Chamade - Quick comparison between vintage and current

Picture: Chamade
Photo: PR Guerlain (c) 

A fun activity as a part of the perfumehobby is the side by side comparisations on skin or on scentsstripes. When comparing frags by skintesting I normally compare just two, one on each arm.

On of the most exciting excercises is to compare current and vintageversions of fragrances. Below are my short impressions comparing Guerlains green flowery classic Chamade from 1969, the forerunner to other clsssics as Chanel No19 (1971), Van Cleef & Arpels First (1976) and Annick Goutal L'Heure Exquise (1984).

Left arm Guerlain Chamade Edt vintage don't know exact age probably ca 20y.The topnotes its off and I have read on the Guerlain expert, Mr Guerlains blog ,that Chamade doesn't age well. After the oldsmelling topnotes have evaporated the sharp galbanum, the edgy smell of the bulbflowers and a dry gunpowdernote comes forward. The basenotes are warm and comforting, compared to the cool and balmy base of No 19.

Right arm: Chamade Edp current version some pleasant fruity notes blended among the green crisp bulbflowers and no sharp galbanumnote, it's sort of rounded out for the fruity notes. Overall, the current Edp have not the same dept and strenght as the vintage Edt.The Edp is more pleasant and wearable, probably because of the damaged topnotes in Edt. All together I prefer the Edp for wearing and Edt for testing to investigating the deeper facets of the fragrance.

Oriza L.Legrand - Déjà Le Printemps

Picture: The Return of Spring (Le Printemps)
Oil on canvas by William-Adolphe Bouguereau, 1886
Wikimedia commons

Déjà Le Printemps is the fourth fragrance in the great Oriza L.Legrand collection that I had the pleasure to try. Reviews of the others Rêve d'Ossian, Relique D'Amour and Oeillet Louis XV are published already published the latest months. The fragrances are created by Elisabeth Feydeau.

Déjà Le Printemps is just what the name indicates, a spring fragrance. A beautiful, lasting and unusual green fragrance. The marketing blurb is just on the spot:"A promenade in the wood awakening from a long winter sleep. Morning dew is glistening like a beads on a wild grasses which exude fresh flavor. The sun rises and its rays awaken wet flowers and fragrant leaves of fig trees swaying by wind. Tree buds swollen with young leaves, flower buds ready to bloom, and the earth, with its smell of turf and twisted roots, full of vitality. The first lilies of the valley reveal itself. It’s spring awakening. Spring has come."

Déjà Le Printemps starts with the green smell of the crisp, green, leaves of flower bulbs accompanied by fresh, light green grass. This green smell is almost always a bit sharp but in DLP the leaves are embedded in a note tha smells like a delightful, soft  suede. This suede accord I could recognize in a rougher and bolder presentation in for exmple Ava Luxe Film Noir.

As DLP dries down the suedenote recedes step by step and the green accords becomes  more spakling and radiant. There is also an almost tart crisp flowery note with a touch of orange which I can image as hints of  Lily of the Valley and orangeblosssom. There is alsosome alomst herbal green flower which could be the clover mentioned among the notes. Overall the flowery notes are playing in the background balancing the fresh leaves and grass. When DLP settles in the basenotes, the suede note slowly appears again, accompanied by deeper green notes as moss and vetiver.

Déjà Le Printemps is very uplifting and joyful to wear. It evokes the impression of sun even if grey outside. Therefore it's suitable not only for spring and summer, it's also comforting during the darker and colder months.

Those who like fragrances as Puredistance Antonia, Balmain Vent Vert and Ivoire, Chanel No 19 Edt, Parfums de Nicolaï  Week-End à Deauville (swe) and Van Cleef & Arpels First will certainly also like the gem (emerald) Déjà Le Printemps.

Rating: 5

Notes: Mint, orangeblossom, chamomile, fig leaves,clove, mown grass, lily of the valley, galbanum, musk, vetiver, cedar, moss

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Déjà Le Printemps

Pierre Balmain - Vent Vert (new vs older)

Picture: Vent Vert
PR  Poster (c) Pierre Balmain, all rights reserved

The first green fragrance (at least famous one) for woman Vent Vert originally created by one of the pioneer female noses, Germaine Cellier for Pierre Balmain 1947, is the epitome of spring and early summer. Leafy and grassy notes supported by the scent of bulbflowers creates a sunny and warm green fragrance, just as the feeling of the summer breeze a warm day at the countryside in the early summer. As all great classics, Vent Vert is reformulated severel times. The first major change was in 1990 conducted by another great female perfumer, Calice Becker. After that it has been some changes in the early 2000:s and most reacent, some years ago when Balmain repackaged in the current cube scaped bottles with the golfball cap, the current version was introduced.

Picture: Germaine Cellier (1909-1976),
photo found at Basenotes

Picture: Calice Becker,
photo found at Fragrantica

Vent Vert starts with the sharp and a bit bitter green note of galbanum. In the older version the bitterness and greenness is much more pronounced and much more is going on. In the new version the galbanum is tuned down and a lemon note is evident. As Vent Vert dries down, in the new version, galbanum just wispers soft in the background when clearly preasent in the older version even if it takes a step back here also. In the new version an indistinct, a bit too sweet, floral heart appears and as it dries further down, it goes more and more soapy in character. The soapiness, even if a bit sweet, is fresh in the same time, image the smell of washing off in the sea after enjoying a woodheated sauna in the archipelago. The older Vent Vert on the other hand, is continuing in its characteristic manner, in the middle crispy flowers combined with a delicate spicyness takes the centerstage, underscored by the galbanum. Also when reaching the basenotes the older version has more character, more dept with its mossy and woody notes blended with some warm notes of amber and resins. The current version anchors in a bright and light woodiness which counterplays the sweet soapiness.

Picture: Le Mors à la Conétable
Photo: PR Hermès (c) all rights reserved

To summon up: The new Vent Vert is a bit tame, onedimensional and without dept compared with the older version. The older version is rougher, sharper and distinct in its grassy galbanum and leafy greeness balanced with the scent of the crispy flowers. The older version is the elegant, Hermèsscarf wearing, casual chic lady whereas the current version is classicalstyled, sporty teenager in a navy-striped  woolen Busnel sweater, jeans and Docksides. Even if i personally prefers the older version, I really think the new version should be considered by those who want's a new green scent for the coming, warmer season. The new Vent Vert is  better then most of the mainstream, floral stuff.

Picture: Docksides (R)
Photo: PR Sebago (c) all rights reserved

Vent Vert older version will attract those who like fragrances as Chanel No 19 especially in Edt, Annick Goutal Heure Exquise, Van Cleef & Arpèls First and Puredistance Antonia. I think the new Vent Vert will be appreciated by those who like Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte.

Rating: New 4 and older 4+

Notes:
New version: Galbanum, lemon, lavander, basil, lily of the valley, jasmine, rose, sandal- and cedarwood, moss.
Older version: Lime, orangeblossom, green notes, asafoetida, peach, basil, lemon, bergamot, neroli, violet, freesia, jasmine, hiacynth, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, rose, galbanum, marigold, spicy notes, iris, sandalwood, amber, musk, oakmoss, sage, vetiver, styrax, cedar

Versace - Vanitas Edt

Picture: Idleness, John William Godward , 1900,
Wikimedia commons

Some days I just want to wear a fragarnce that just smells incredible good and that not distracts with strange twists that urges for a constant analyze. Such a fragrance is Versace Vanitas Edt, created by Dora Baghriche-Arnaud, a fresher interpretation of the Edp which was launched last year.

Vanitas Edt starts with a blast of sparkling yellow and white flowers grounded on an mellow, tropical, almosfruity accord that is not overly sweet and accentuating the flowers and gives them a depth. In the earlier stages of Vanitas Edt there is a bit of, but not fully developed, watery-flowery accord in the lotus flower style, like in Water Calligraphy by ByKilian and Gala de Dia by Loewe. As the fragrance dries down the watery texture gradually softens but doesn’t disappear completely. Also in the base the flowers is the most distinguished notes even if grounded on woody and teanotes according to the notelist.

Vanitas Edt is a sophisticated floral fragance with notes that feels almost fruity in the background. It’s a grown up floral, far away from the sweet, pink, young-girlish style.There is also no shrillness as in some Versace creations, neither it reflects the sometimes almost vulguar noveau riche style of the Versace couture. The almost fruity light sweetness, I think it’s the freesia that dominates the blend, smells almost natural, like mango and papaya, and there is no chemical vibes that could be prominent in some fragrances in this style.

Vanitas Edt is suitable for those who enjoy Amouage Honour Woman, Ormonde Jayne Tiare, Dior Pure Poison and First by Van Cleef & Arpels even if the latter is a grand, soapy 70s aldehydic, the lustre and elegance in apparance is similar.

Vanitas Edt is elegant but also relaxing and comfortable, perfect for daytime wear year around and it really blooms in humid weather which was the curicumstances when I tested it. I also think it would be a terrific fragrance to wear during lazy summerdays and warm summerevenings. Longevity is very good, at least 12h and the sillage is medium.

Rate: 4

Notes: Freesia, rose, osmanthus, tiareflower, cedarwood, black tea

Happy Easter!

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Suffering from a really bad cold, I've hardly been able to work the the past two days but somehow managed to get to the office. I'm now (as also my nose) going to rest during the Easter weekend to get well until next week's obligations.

According to tradition, I usually publish an Easter fragrance post but since my sense of smell is completely vanished  I find no inspiraton. OK not completely vanished as I sometimes smells fragments of the comforting Thierry Mugler Cologne which is my SOTD.

If I didn't had the cold I would have like to wear Le Temps pour d'une Fete by Patricia de Nicolaï, it's crispy green galbanum with springlike hyacinths perfectly fits the Easter holiday as also Antonia by Puredistance which is a more polished take on the theme. First by Van Cleef & Arpels would also be a good choice in this category.

Which you a happy and well smelling Easter!

Puredistance - Antonia update January 2012

Picture: Antonia Minor (as Juno Ludovisi),

Museo Nazionale Romano, Rome 

Photo: user;shakko

When I first reviewd and tested Antonia last spring, I found it to sharp and smelling of luxury detergent see reviews in english and swedish. Relieved I wrote it off in company with the entire Puredistancecollection, M as a re-bottled Hermès Bel Ami and 1 as a luxury  Flora Bella by Lalique.

But this, to swedish conditions, warm and green winter I have longed for glowing, deep and intense florals. Suddenly my sample of Antonia was demanding for attention and I retested it, applicated a slightly larger dose than before. Wow, now I get it. It's so beautiful with its green notes of galbanum and flowers among them the ylang-ylang that adds a sofisticated sweetness. I wonder if the juice somehow has mellowed and has been blended during the storage because by now the smell of luxury detergent is not as apparent as in spring 2011. Antonia is also smoother than I percived it earlier. Maybe it also has to do with my own theory that the luxury detergent smell, that is present in several highend-/nicheperfumes, is the replacement of the typical soapy smell in the aldehydeperfumes of the late seventies- and early eighties such as First. To me Antonia is a contemporary successor to the elegant fragrances as First and it's peers, bright, glowing, with a flowing and well crafted texture. But is it also a successor of Pierre Balmains Vent Vert with it's intense, crispy, bitter, green note of galbanum. I can image that the original Vent Vert smelled something like this.

It's a pleasure to spend a day with the elegant but in the same time relaxed Antonia. But the day my sample vial runs out, will on the other hand, be tough to my poor wallet.

Rating: Antonia has made a rapid career, increasing it's rating from 3+ in April 2011 to 5 in January 2012.

Notes: Ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, orris, geranium, ivy, vanilla, vetiver

Van Cleef & Arpels - First

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

First was the first fragrance of the jewellerhouse Van Cleef & Arpels and it was the startingpoint for jewellers also bringing out perfumes under their brands. Later Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgarí etc followed. First was launched in 1976 and is among the earlier perfumes of the master of transparency, Jean-Claude Ellena.

But First is anything but transparent. This is a huge, soapy, aldehydic, floral. The flowers are green, crispy bulbs, flowers of the early spring as tulips, hiacynts, narcissus, daffodils and lilly of the vally. And lots of other potent flowers as tubereuse, orchid, jasmine etc. But there is also a warm fruitiness in First which balances the green, slight chilly, crispiness of the bulbs and gives the composition a warm and sunny feeling. To all this, First is all about soap. The aldehydes lends the composition a well behaved but very distinct soapiness that many consider to be oldfashioned, and probably it is. But to me the soapiness gives First a retro vibe, it is an element that signs First to it's time, the late seventies and early eighties.

Other fragrances that reminds me of First is first of all :-) K de Krizia, the notes are very similar and they smell very close to each other. Ivoire by Balmain is in the same sopy style but I perceive that one as less bold flowery. From Ivoire the line goes to a contemporary, and therefore much more restraint interpretation, Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens. BdS focuses on iris and hiacynth but conveys the same feeling in appearance as First, translated to our zeitgeist. Also Amouages Dia has similarities with First, but Dia is, in my opinion, much more tuned down. First is a alternative to Dia, acheiving a similar effect but much more affordable.

First (I have tested the current EDP version) has an excellent longivity, it is present for a whole day, also in tough conditions: It lasted even after more than two hours in the swimmingpool. Not exactly the right enviroment for an elegant creation as First. First is for dressed up occasions during daytime or meetings where you need to take a centerplace.

Rating: 4

By the way: I just love those extensive notelists of the perfumes of the seventies and eighties.

Notes: Aldehydes, black currant, mandarine, raspberry, peach, bergamott, carnation, tuberose, orchid, orris root, jasmine, hiacynth, rose, ylang-ylang, lilly of the valley, narcissus, civet, honey, sandelwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, vanilla, vetiver, oakmoss,

Omvärderad doft - Birmane

Bild: Perfume Emporium.com
Igår var det dags för säsongens första besök på Lådbilslandet. En doft som klarar en ett sådant marathonpass och ändå har kvar basnoterna i oförvanskad form vid dagens slut, är faktiskt värd en hel del beröm. Doften som klarade denna prövning är Van Cleef & Arpels fruktigt blommiga men ändå lite träiga Birmane från 1999
Jag var inte helt positiv (förutom till hållbarheten) när jag refererade Birmane 31/3 i år.  Den jämfördes med Boss Women som jag trots sin banalitet (usch doftsnobben igen) tycker om. I början är Birmane karaktärslös (det vidhåller jag) och luktar som en typisk fruktig, blommig, myskig modern doft.
Men sedan när den kommit en bit i mellanregistret och basnoterna börjar skymta så får den en egen karaktär. Basens mysk, tonkaböna, och cederträ är fint balanserade och verkar vara av bra kvalitet. De minglar ihop till en mycket angenäm doft som varar ofragmenterad dagen ut. Denna doft påminner så om något, vad kommer jag inte på just nu. Den nötiga tonkan binder ihop mysken och cederträet och tar udden av den skarphet som de ibland kan uppvisa när de tillåts dominera.
Dofterna upphör aldrig att fascinera. Ständigt hittar jag nya nyanser och aspekter. Lärdomen är också att inte alltför lättvindligt döma en doft.

Dagens doft

Befinner mig fortfarande inom de blommigt, fruktiga trivseldofternas revir. Idag Birmane från van Cleef & Arples 1999.  Bedömningarna om vilken kategori den tillhör, fruktig blomma eller träig oriental går i sär. Sjäv tycker jag det finns en nötigt-träig orientalisk bas med mycket fruktighet i överbyggnaden.
Birmane är rätt karaktärslös. En typisk fruktig, söt parfym från det sena nittiotalet. En trivsam men på intet sätt stor doft (ojdå, doftsnobbens fula tryne skymtade fram). Exempelvis Boss Women som jag bar häromdagen, har mer personlighet och är mindre söt. Ändå finns vissa likheter i stil och ingredienser. Trots att Birmane är en Edt så är den väldigt stark och sitter bra under dagen samt har en stark närvaro. Den är lätt att överdosera, vilket jag har gjort idag. Första intrycket är fruktigt sött men när de börjar koka ned till basnoterna så dämpas det söta en del av tonkaböna och mysk.
Birmane inleds med persika, freesia och kumquat. Sedan följer jasmin, ros, lilja, orkide och narciss. I basen tonkaböna, mysk, vanilj och sandelträ.
Boss Women är en typisk "på kontoret doft". Birmane är mer en kvällsdoft på samma tema, även om den kan bäras på dagen också. När Birmane nått basnoterna är det tonkan och mysken dominerar. Nu är den mer diskret än i början då jag kände mig fruktbombad. Birmane vinner i längden, men är fortfarande en doft i mängden.