Neela Vermeire Creations - Rahele

Picture: India map
Photo: (c) FOTOLIA, MOONRISE /PR Neela Vermeire Creations

The inspiration to the latest Neela Vermeire Creations fragrance is according to the house as follows:            "Rahele (traveller) is an ode to exotic travel, an olfactory journey in the company of 17th Century French visitors to the East. Tavernier...Bernier...Thévenot...the names still resonate in the imagination of armchair travellers today, as each man left a detailed record of his adventures, showing us Mughal-ruled India through a European lens." Rahele is created by Bertrand Duchaufour as rest of the fragrances from Neela Vermeire.

The first accord reminds me of an up scale version of Lalique Flora Bella which is also creation of Bertrand Duchaufour .Then when notes of cedar and cardamom appears, I come to think of a less sweet and much more floral variation of Lubin Inedite. As Rahele dries further down it becomes more bright, floral, rose-violet is prominent at first than round, fruity flowery notes of osmanthus appears. The osmanthus note is luminous even if thick and velvet smooth in texture. Here the impression of Inedite diverges where Inedite takes a woody-spicy-gourmand and darker path. Rahele takes a different direction, it's sunny and warm, lush and juicy and in the same time calming and refreshing, in its floral-fruity glory. Raheles floral-fruity accord smells natural, there are no cloying, syntetic candysmelling sweet fruity notes. Probably most of the frutiy sweetness comes from the osmanthus which in this creation is not dilluted as in most other fragrances featuring osmanthus. As Rahele dries down, the similarities to Inedite reappears in the basenotes when the elements of cedar and cardamom steps forward again. There is also a fresh mossy element which anchors the fragrance.  

Picture: Osmanthusflower
Photo: (c) FOTOLIA, CHUNGKING/PR Neela Vermeire Creations

Rahele is not oriental as the previous Neela Vermeire fragrances, it's a beautful floral fragance with some elements of a contemporary interpretation of chypre. Rahele is a terrific fragrance for the coming late winter and early spring when looking forward for the coming brighter days. It's a joyful cretation equally perfect for a day at work or for the weekend. To me it's more but also brave men can wear this. The longevity is good, more then 12h, silage is medium. 

Picture: Rahele
Photo: (c) M. TASSY/PR Neela Vermeire Creations

Rahele is a great choice for those who like joyful, lush, luminous boquets in the style (not the same smell) of Téo Cabanel Lace Garden, Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia and Le Galion Iris and La Rose.

Rating: 5

Notes: Mandarine, cardamom, cinnamon, violet leaf, oamanthus, rose, magnolia, jasmine, iris, violet, cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli

Parfum d'Empire - Osmanthus Interdite

Picture: The northwest corner of the Forbidden City, Beijing, China
Photo: Attribution Charlie Fong, (cc), some rights reserved,
 Wikimedia.com

Osmanthus Interdite by Parfum d'Empire is a fragrance inspirerd from the scents and overall impressions from the imperial gardens in the Forbidden City in Beijing. Like all the high quality Parfum d'Empire fragrances, Osmanthus Interdite is created by the Parfum d'Empire founder,  IPSICA perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. The review is made from a sample from the latest edition of Osmanthus Intedite, the version in the new bottledesign.

Osmanthus Interdite is fresh, floral, dry chalky fruity matched with light, white tea notes. There is also some deep, almost dark passages, as shadows from the bushes besids the ponds a sunny afternoon in the palace garden. Smooth and very well balanced accents of the osmanthus flower like soft deep apricot, velvety leather as suede and dry fresh haynotes create a sofisticated, pleasant aura around the wearer. The tea notes are smooth without any harsh edges. In the base of Osmanthus Interdite, a pleasant chalky note steps forward, adding a deeper layer to the fragrance. In texture Osmanthus Interdite reminds me of a feather light, almost transparant cashmere shawl worn over an elegant, white, casual chic outfit. Some how Osmanthus Interdite has a calming and meditative effect, it's a relaxing fragrance to wear. Fragrances with the same relaxing and elegant, white aura that comes to my mind (even if not smelling the same) when wearing Osmanthus Interdite is By Kilian Water Calligraphy, Imperial Tea and Bamboo Harmony as also Dior Homme Cologne 2013 version.

Picture: Osmanthus Interdite, new bottle
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Osmanthus Interdite is quite linear in constuction, with its accords flowing back and forth during the dry down of the fragrance. It's discrete with a close sillage, with good longevity, about a day. It's the perfect office fragrance for spring, summer, early autumn but could be worn in any season. As I remember the previous version in the old bottle, I can't detect any differences, probably there is no reformulation in connection with the switch in bottledesign.

Osmanthus Interdite is the osmanthus fragrance that I've experienced so far and I also think it's one of the best tea fragrances on the market.

Rating: 5

Notes: Osmanthus, green tea, apricot, jasmin, rose, fruit, musk, suede

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test