Best of 2022

From the very, very few I have tried from the huge output launched to the fragrancemarket 2022, the favorite fragrances  for me, was the two below: 

Picture: Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Paris

Photo: PR Chanel (c)

Chanel Paris-Paris: All of the fragrances in the Les Eaux de Chanel - line are so good and so versatile, wearable in every everyday occasion. And the 2022 addition, Paris-Paris was no exception on the contrary, this pink, transparent, slightly jammy rose patch is my favorite together with the two green ones of the line: Édimbourg and Deauville. 

          Picture: Eau de Basilic Pourpre

Photo: PR Hermès (c)

The unisexfragrance Eau de Basilic Pourpre is a happy, light, herbal-green transparent and very wearable fragrance from the overall so wearable  Hermès Cologne line. My second favorite of the Cologne line, close behind the original Eau d'Orange Verte  (both the 1979 and 2009 versions) and Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate.

There were also two 2022 fragrances classified as masculie which made some impression and for the right occasion/skintype also can work for woman

   Picture: MV2Q 

      Photo: PR Puredistance(c)

Puredistance MV2Q a modern slightly rough leather, business casual in style. Not as polished and classic in (tuxado) style as it's predecessor, M which sadly has to be dicontinued because of some ingredients were hit by some new IFRA standards. 

            Picture: H24 Eau de Parfum

Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Hermès H24 Eau de Parfum:  Although I'm more found of the original H24 EDT with it's woolen, metallic steamnotes like ironing a light, clean woolfabric, this years EDP is also very good, even if  more conservative and doesn't stand out as much as the original. The dark green fresh moisty moss in the dry down is probably the carrier the makes the note of narcissus stand out more in this version than in the EDT.

Puredistance MV2Q

Picture: Puredistance MV2Q
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Autumn is almost here, and autumn means it is time for a new release from Puredistance. Last autumn Puredistance reached its full number with the beautiful No 12. After that, each new realease in the Collection will casuse the discontinuing or withdrawel to buy after request, of one of the fragrances. No 3 M even if very popular, was the first do go (discontinued) among others due to new restrictions regarding some of the ingredients. To replace the loss of M a new Extrait created around the leather theme is launched in September 2022.

The similarities between the old classic M and the new MV20 are (beside the high quality ingredients, the extrait formula and the pure apperance) that both are very masculine fragrances even if  I think  MV2Q could even pass as unisex despite of it's leaning to the masculine side. Also the fact that both of them are more  (M) or less (MV2Q) leather fragrances, bring them together. Then, the similarities ends, M and MV2Q are IMHO two different fragrances. M is a timeless, high quality leather fragrance in the style of Hermès Bel Ami, a sort of refined Bel Ami in a clean and smooth extrait formula. 

MV2Q to me is a contemporary, modern urban woody oriental fragrances with an accord resembling the leather chypres of the 1980s as a side kick. A bright, full and sunny version of the chyper-ish accord is appearing in the topnotes and also showing up later in a darker, more sensual moonlight version as MV2Q has dried down in to the basenotes. The leather chypre styled accord,  reminds me of a less sweet-flowery version of one of my all time favourites, Montana Parfum de Peau (vintage version). But most of all MV2Q is a modern dry and warm, balsamic spicy woody fragrance with some light traces of something almost boozy, like a deep and rounded cognac.  Among the spicy notes, on my skin, the clean woody pepper note takes the centerstage and could "take over" the composition when MV2Q reaches the middlenotes  if  not applied very light. I've tested MV2Q several times over the summer, in  very warm and also colder tempratures  and my conclusion is that one or one and a half spritz (if hot outside) is maximum for me to apply to avoid the woody pepper note to take over. The positive side is, that very little of MV2Q is enough to create a great silage and a longevity for about 24h. The extrait is very concentrated, it's rich and mellow, full of very fine quality ingredients playing with each other in wellblended accords. When MV2Q reach the basenotes, the accord similar to a modern Parfum de Peau shows up again but this time with a more oriental soft spicy touch which reminds me of  the cozy and comforting Puredistance Sheiduna. Maybe MV2Q is the masculine counterpart to Sheiduna in the Puredistance collection. In the basenotes, there is also a slight dark leather-boozy element which reminds me of MDCI Parfums excellent Cuir Garamante.

Picture: Puredistance MV2Q
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Somehow I imagine, after its sunny opening, MV2Q,  in the middlenotes, as a dry, dark, log of wood lying together with some black, leather in the desert warmed up in the sunlight at midday. When MV2Q reaches the basenotes, the sun sets and the perfume calms down and transforms to a darker, softer and cosier evening fragance. MV2Q is a fragrance that seems to be tailor-made  to accompanying the progress of the day into the night and to emphasize the characteristics of each part to the wearer. As usual with Puredistance, an intriguing, very well made fragrance, which is concentrated and therfore even the smallest 17,5 ml  flacon (pictured above) will last for a very, very long time.

Overall MV2Q will be a perfect match for the coming autumn, although I will mostly go for the more feminine Sheiduna. 

Notes:

Orange blossom, Pink pepper, Lavender,
Cinnamon, Nagarmotha, Jasmine Sambac, Pine Tar,
Indonesian patchouli, Madagascar vanilla, Spanish labdanum, Tonka bean, Texas cedar

Thank you Team Puredistance for the generous sample of  MV2Q 

It's the Puredistance time of the year....

November and December is the Puredistance time of the year. Of course I'm wearing them during other seasons too, but for this dark months, one need something extra. And as it's also soon is Christmas I come to think of  that the beautiful fragrances from this house are the ones to wear for the holidays. Below some suggestions:

Picture: Puredistance Warszawa
Drawing: PR Puredistance (c)

Warszawa (Puredistance): I've worn the dark, mysterious, almost plummy Warszawa  much during grey November. An elegant, high quality dark floral oriental, with vintage vibes, boardering to a chypre in the light spicy-fruity genre (think Guerlain Mitsouko, original Dior Poison and Tauer Loretta). 

Picture: Puredistance Opardu
Drawing: PR Puredistance (c)

Opardu (Puredistance): Even if Opardu is the ultimate perfume for spring, it has recently lightened the gloomy days up. It's a lilacperfume with many other facets (for example rose) and interesting twists, with something almost crystalized, slight gourmand.Opardu is not of the light, outdoor, airy variety, it has a much deeper texture and more body.

Picture: Puredistance Sheiduna
Drawing: PR Puredistance (c)

Sheiduna (Puredistance):The grey and gloomy weather demands some true quality and elegance to be defeataed. Sheiduna is a brilliant spicy, slight gourmand oriental with warm and boozy accords. There is also some almost refreshing, offsetting notes, almost like tea. Sheiduna is just superb and reminds me slightly of another gem from perfumer Cecile Zarokain Kashnoir from Laboratorio Olfattivio.

Picture: Puredistance M
Drawing: PR Puredistance (c)

M (Puredistance): An elegant, classical gentlemans leather fragrance but just as Marlene Dietrich with Knize Ten, M could be worn by women too. A smooth and close to the skin variation of Hermès Bel Ami.

And last but not least - the luxurious Puredistance sample giftset is the perfect Christmas gift.

Thank's to Puredistance for contributing with samples to test over the years.

Puredistance - WHITE

Picture: Puredistance WHITE
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

The idea of the new perfume WHITE  from the house of Puredistance is to create at perfume so Beautiful and positive that it gives the wearer an instant flow of happiness.  IMO Perfumer Antoine Lie and house founder/creative director Jan Ewoud Vos  have indeed succeeded in their mission to fullfill this idea. The process to create WHITE took over one year and probably this is a big part of the sucess, Puredistance never stresses new perfumes into the market, the creators take the time needed. Therefore the Puredistance line is one of the most solid lines in the market, there are no misses (so far) just solid, sophisticated, very high quality perfumes and I'm very fond of them all, can't choose a favorite as each fragrance suits different moods, styling and occassion. See my reviews of Black, Opardu, I, M and Antonia.

WHITE starts bright, transaprent and happy. My instant thought is the image of a daisy, a dried specimen of that little sunny flower was also included with the sample from Puredistance, a very good illustration to this scent. As WHITE dries down, flawless like an exquisite brilliant it becames thicker but never heavy in its texture. An excellent creamy smoothness appears and stays during the rest of the drydown, making WHITE very comforting to wear despite its elegant aura. WHITE is 
seamless blended and it's hard to pick up where on note start dominating and another take a step backwards. The notes are interacting, shaping a flowery veil anchored in a smooth top notch sandalwood, whitout any harsh or sharp edges, it's like the sandalwood is a part of the bouquet. There is a tonality of musk  wafting from the base of WHITE, a white, non-dirty musk which has no traces of  chemical,laundry. Instead it's deepens the accords and gives  bodies to the flowers. The musk also, together with the pleasant sweetness of tonka been and a minimalist patchouli, creates that special tart note which I  appreciate so much in complex floral compositions, in WHITE without the powdery aspect which the tart note also could be combined with. On my skin the tart musky accord especially highlighing the airy rose, pale yellow or pale pink if imagining a color, supported by some dry, slight fizzy, light earthy orris elements but without the orris carrotnote.



Picture: Picture: Puredistance full Collection
spring 2015
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

WHITE is a sophisticated fragrance, surprisingly easy to wear taken its elegance and the expensive, high quality ingredients in to account. It would the perfect pefume for the bride of the coming swedish royal wedding in June, Sofia read this :-). WHITE is comforting and conveys a  happy mood and sunshine. Even if in style a spring/summer perfume WHITE has enough dept and genuine texture for pleasant  wearing year around. It's as timeless and versatile as for example Chanel No 22. The longevity is very good, 12h+ and a few small spritses from the samples is enough. WHITE is in perfume (extrait) strenght and therefore quite close to the wearer, even if distinct traces are recognizable for people around.

WHITE is so wellcrafted that it makes me considering selling off my less well crafted florals. Even if I like them as such, when compard to a fragrance as WHITE the chemical, harsh and laundry notes of especially some mainstream perfumes becomes quite obvious.

WHITE is for everyone who likes a delicate, flower boquet and will please those who like the  style of fragrances as for example Grossmith Amelia and  Floral Veil or the new Teo Cabanel Lace Garden.

Maybe a bit boring but the fact is that I already know WHITE will be one of my most liked pefumes of 2015. And it definitly has the potential to be THE number one of 2015. Beware Chanel Misia.

Rating: 5

Notes: May rose, tonka absolute, orris root, sandalwood, bergamot, musk, vetiver, patchouli.

M.Micallef - Ylang in Gold

Picture: Vintage Cote d'Azur PR poster 

Ylang in Gold is a truly delicious, luxurary, creamy, fruity, floral from french nichehouse M.Micallef situated in Grasse. Ylang in Gold is created by the "housenose" Jean-Claude Astier and as all Micallefs presentated in a artful bottle this one with shimmering gold, created by one of the two founders of the house, Martine Micallef. The juice itself is avaible in two versions: One goldshimmering and one plain transparent version.

Ylang in Gold starts amazing with an accord that smelle like a golden nectar. Creamy fruity notes, sprinkled with uplifting citrus and an almost liqour like note paired with coconut and slight green notes offsetting the sweetness. The flowers in Ylang in Gold is smooth, rounded and sweet yellow  in appearance (even if not yellow in reality), just as the protagonist of the fragrance, the warm, sweet and sunny ylang-ylang. The base is musky in a wellbalanced way with a damp mossy note offsetting the warm and sweet coconut, vanilla and sandalwood in the base. The whole composition is linear in style, extreamly pleasing and comfortable. Despite Ylang in Gold is consisting of powerful notes, the fragrance is surprisingly transaprent and subtle, sometimes almost not detectable for the wearer even if other can smell it. Ylang in Gold reminds me of a classic powerful floral-fruity-oriental from the early 90s, Chopard Casmir but in a current more transparent, smooth and less sweet interpretation. Casmir is louder, sweeter, darker and heavier with its vanilla-resin base   but there is a chord that smells very similar that goes through both of these fragrances.

Picture: The beautiful  presentation of the delicious Ylang in Gold
Photo: PR Parfums M.Micallef, (c) all rights reserved

Even if a symphony of pleasing sweetness, Ylang in Gold manages to lend over to the not too sweet territory. Ylang in Gold is very well crafted, highquality ingredients is used and it evokes true comfort and perfection, it is almost to perfect, there is no surprising twist hidden in the compostion. But that could be just ok for days when the wearer just need an elegant and caring fragrance, not a challenging one (as my favourite Micallef so far Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M.Micallef) that  requires constant attention. The image of the sunny south that the fragrance evokes, make it suitable for wearing in the summer and it has sufficient dept and longevity to last also during a hot summerday.

Ylang in Gold is a shining, yellow fragrance, casual chic, mediating a happy and sunny Cote d'Azur impression. Its texture reminds me of the cocosnutty and creamy character of the dessert gourmand Unkown Pleasures from Kerosene. I also think that those who like Estee Lauder Bronze Godess/Azuree Soleil will appreciate Ylang in Gold. And of course, fans of the original Hanae Mori, with the same name, as that 90s fruity-floral has similarities with Chopard Casmir from the same era.

Rating: 4

Notes: Peach, lichi, tangerine, fruity notes, geranium, sage, rosemary, artemisia, bitterorange, ylang-ylang, rose, lily of the valley, magnolia, mint, sandalwood, musk, moss, vanilla, coconut

Puredistance - M

Picture: The spirit of Puredistance M, 

Puredistance (c) all rights reserved

M is the masculine (or most masculine) fragrance in the excellent Puredistance line. It's a masculine oriental in the classical style, featuring soft leather notes. Even if classified as masculine, the elegant and smooth construction of the fragrance makes it suitable also for a brave woman, the same situation as with Aramis JHL. M is created by Roja Dove.

M starts with topnotes dominated by a natural leathernote, a leathernote like the scent of an elegant briefcase. After the leathery start, M transforms into a close wellbalanced spicyness with clear notes of carnation and clove. The leather takes a step behind but is still recognizable in the background. In this stage a very light and smooth note that reminds me of a soft, refined curry appears among the other spicy notes. On my skin anyway, this note is not clearly apparent on Mr Parfumista. In the basenotes, M get balsamic-resiny and more leathery again, a deeper and muskier leather than in the topnotes. To conclude it all: On my skin M is a harmonious mix of leather,carnation and spices.

Overall M gives me the association of resting in a wellworn armchair, nestled in a cashmereblanket, sipping an excellent cognac, in front of the fireplace at some old country estate.
M is most of all a masculine fragrance, but is so gentle and refined that it could also be worn comfortably by a women. In that sense M is unisex. M is a wellcrafted, comfortable fragrance made of quality ingredients and it suits both for formal worksituations and for festivite occasions. With its warmth M perfectly suits the colder months of the year, but I suspect it could also be fine for chillier summerevenings.

M is similar to Hermès great Bel Ami but to my and Mr Parfumistas noses, M is more leathery, darker, boozier and closer than the current version of  Bel Ami, but the style, and apperance is the same. M is even more close to the old Bel Ami-version in the "coctail-shaker-bottle" which is thicker, spicier and somehow boozier in texture. There are also similarities between M and the real leather classic Knize Ten and the contemporary but classic in style Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens. My nose also find some traces (the spicy cinnamon-warmth) of JHL (original formula).

M wears closer to the skin than Bel Ami but then M also is in perfumestrength whereas Bel Ami is in Edt concentration and therefore has a more extensive radiation. Longevity is about the same for both fragrances, they lasts for about 24h.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, jasmine, rose, carnation, vanilla, vetiver, patchouli, wood, labdanum, moss, cinnamon, clove, leather, musk

The perfumed year 2012

Photo:Mr Parfumista (c)

Here we are again, another year has just accelerated away and unfortunately I think of 2012 as a year with much horror and fear in the world. But in the little world, the 2012 in Perfumeland, I think 2012 was a good year with many good releases and new findings when it comes to perfumes that suits me anyway. 2012 to me was above all two great perfumehouses:

* I became familiar with the great, high-quality perfumeline of Ramón Monegal, the spanish answer to Patricia de Nicolaï. Patricia a descendant to the Guerlains and Ramón a descendant to the Guerlains of Spain, the house of Myrurgia, both perfumers genuinely educated in the art & craft of perfumery and both starting their own perfume houses, free to create after their own ideas & noses. The Ramón Monegal line contains almost all variations of perfumery, and all with a personal twist. This line is a complete perfumewardrobe :-) and I'm really looking forward to additional creations during the coming years, I'm missing testing a new RM every second week :-). Luckily I have two more from the line internationally realeased 2012 to review that I have saved for 2013: Agar Musk and Cherry Musk. I'm also thrilled to test the special 2012 Christmas/New Years blend, a perfume that captures the essences of Ramón Monegals beautiful hometown Barcelona.

* I also finally get the beautiful perfumes of Puredistance and the launch of 2012, the classical styled Opardu was also my best fragrance of the year. The Puredistance is a sort of a perfumebrandbuildingconcept by the perfumeinterested, brandbuildingprofessional Jan Ewoud Vos. The house uses hired, well-known perfumers, Annie Buzantain for the female perfumes, I, Antonia and Opardu and Roja Dove for the masculine one, M. The concept seems to be very successful as the emotions conveyed are intimate, familiar, timeless understated elegance of high quality as if Puredistance already is classic house. The feeling of brandbuilding never occurs as in the case of the total contrast to Puredistance, the tiresome, so obvious brandbuildingconcept Byredo, oriented to anxious thirty-something urbanites.

As for the new perfumeyear 2013 I hope that the new EU legislation/self regulation of the industry (per 1/7) will not hit as hard as one can read from different initiated source; ie that many of the classics will not be recognizable anymore and that many fragrancehouses have to redo a great part of their fragranceportfolios. Therefore Dior with its critizised renaming of  the Miss Dior Cherie to the classical Miss Dior name probably has been in the forefront, they save the name and fill it with a content that will be compliant even after the new regulations becomes effective.

Puredistance - Antonia update January 2012

Picture: Antonia Minor (as Juno Ludovisi),

Museo Nazionale Romano, Rome 

Photo: user;shakko

When I first reviewd and tested Antonia last spring, I found it to sharp and smelling of luxury detergent see reviews in english and swedish. Relieved I wrote it off in company with the entire Puredistancecollection, M as a re-bottled Hermès Bel Ami and 1 as a luxury  Flora Bella by Lalique.

But this, to swedish conditions, warm and green winter I have longed for glowing, deep and intense florals. Suddenly my sample of Antonia was demanding for attention and I retested it, applicated a slightly larger dose than before. Wow, now I get it. It's so beautiful with its green notes of galbanum and flowers among them the ylang-ylang that adds a sofisticated sweetness. I wonder if the juice somehow has mellowed and has been blended during the storage because by now the smell of luxury detergent is not as apparent as in spring 2011. Antonia is also smoother than I percived it earlier. Maybe it also has to do with my own theory that the luxury detergent smell, that is present in several highend-/nicheperfumes, is the replacement of the typical soapy smell in the aldehydeperfumes of the late seventies- and early eighties such as First. To me Antonia is a contemporary successor to the elegant fragrances as First and it's peers, bright, glowing, with a flowing and well crafted texture. But is it also a successor of Pierre Balmains Vent Vert with it's intense, crispy, bitter, green note of galbanum. I can image that the original Vent Vert smelled something like this.

It's a pleasure to spend a day with the elegant but in the same time relaxed Antonia. But the day my sample vial runs out, will on the other hand, be tough to my poor wallet.

Rating: Antonia has made a rapid career, increasing it's rating from 3+ in April 2011 to 5 in January 2012.

Notes: Ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, orris, geranium, ivy, vanilla, vetiver

Puredistance - sammanfattning

Foto: Parfumista (c)

For an (swe)english version of this post, just scroll down to the previous one.

Den aktive parfymbloggsläsaren har säkert läst alla entusiastiska hyllningar av Puredistances dofter. Ärligt talat så har jag svårt att hänga med i hypen. Det är så att jag börjar misstänka att olika parfymbloggare (beroende på bloggstorlek) fått sig/tiggt till sig rejält tilltagna provset från det nyetablerade huset vars mål verkar vara att slå sig in i lyxnischen. Och visst är det eleganta mer eller mindre klassiska dofter av hög kvalitet, men de adderar inget nytt, det är teman på klassiker eller andra dofter som redan finns.I och för sig ska inte Puredistance ensamt ställas i skamvrån för detta, en stor del av, i alla fall designerdoftsmarknaden, är just efterapningar av andra dofter. Men det är just det att Puredistance verkar vilja marknadsföra sig som ett unikt lyxigt nichehus som gör mig extra kritisk och granskande.

Med sina mer eller mindre lyxiga förpackningar (man kan själv välja förpackning vilket är sympatiskt) och en marknadsföring som inriktar sig på klass och elegans känns Puredistances dofter som riktade till den växande gruppen " Nouveau Riche", delsegment kvinnor och män 35 + som ängsligt vill känna sig säkra på att de är "rätt". För en Puredistancedoft är alltid "rätt": Välbalanserad, av god kvalitet och modulerad men inte så spännande, en doft som absolut inte kan stöta sig med någon. Jag blev rejält besviken på 1, hade väntat mig betydligt mer efter vad jag har läst om doften. Retade upp mig på att M, även om den luktar bra, känns som en nästan rakt av parfymimitation av Hermès fina Bel Ami. Som tur är för Puredistance så tycker jag rätt bra om Antonia trots tvättmedelsnoten. Så kommande releaser från huset kan trots allt vara värda att testa.

För review av 1 och Antonia: Se reviewer 21/4 respektive 23/4.
För review av M: Se http://parfumistansblogg.blogspot.com/2011/03/puredistance-m.html

Sammanfattningsvis så tycker jag bäst om M följd av Antonia. De båda distanserar 1 ganska rejält.

Puredistance - Summary

Puredistance certainly is stylish, more or less classic perfumes of high quality. But they add nothing new, they are themes on the classics or other scents that's are already in the market. Puredistance alone should not be critisized for this, a large part of, especially the designer fragrance market, is just copycats of other scents. But it's just that the Puredistance seems to want to promote itself as a unique luxury nichehouse that makes me extra critical.

With its more or less luxury falcons (you can choose from at least two variations of bottles for each fragrance which is appealing) and a promotion that focuses on class and elegance Puredistances fragrances seems to be targeted at the growing group of "nouveau riche". Sub-segment men and women 35 + who anxiously want to feel confident that they are "right". And a Puredistance fragrance is always "right": Well balanced, good quality and modulated but not so exciting. A perfume that can not possibly offend anyone. I was really disappointed in 1, had expected much more from what I've read about the fragrance. Annoying that  M, even if it smells interesting, feels like an almost straight knock off (in perfume strength) of old classy Hermès Bel Ami. Luckily for Puredistance I think pretty good about Antonia despite the detergent note. So future releases from the house may nevertheless be worth testing.

In conclusion, I like M most, before Antonia with 1 pretty far behind.

Rating:

M: 4 
1: 3
Antonia:  3+

Puredistance - Antonia

Bild: Hotel Sacher Wien,

foto: Gryffindor, some rights reserved (cc), Wikimedia Commons

For an (swe)english version of this review, just scroll down to the previous post.

Så till det sista av mina Puredistanceprover, Antonia, precis som 1 skapad av Annie Buzantian. Efter att ha testat M (på herr Parfumista) och 1 på mig själv och blivit besviken,säkert på grund av de höga förväntningar som skapats genom alla entusiastiska reviewer på diverse bloggar och forum, så väntade jag mig inte så mycket av Antonia. Men den visade sig i alla fall vara mer än de (i sammanhanget) lågt ställda förväntningarna. De allra första intrycken är lite skarpt och grönt. Men sedan känner jag en mjuk, fin och mer rundad version av Balmains Vent Vert, inte den senaste versionen utan den innan dvs Calice Beckers från 1990. Efter Vent Vert-fasen inträder ett lite krispigt stadium med gula lökväxter som påskliljor och tulpaner. Även om inga sådan noter nämns i doftpyramiden så är det intrycket som förmedlas. När det gäller den angivna irisnoten så finns inget av det morotsaktiga som ingrediensen oftast ger, själv skulle jag ha tippat på att det är själva blomman som ingår i Antonia. Antonia påminner här en del om Annick Goutals Heure Exquise, fast jag upplever HE som något mörkare och tätare. Det gröna i Antonia fortsätter ända ner i basnoterna och på vägen finns också stråk av vita blommor. Det finns tyvärr, när doften nått basnoterna eller kanske börjar det redan någonstans i mellanregistret, en dissonant not som påminner om ett, som tur är, dyrt lyx-tvättmedel. Det är det enda negativa som jag har att säga om Antonia. Tyvärr ökar irritationen ju mer Antonia tonar ned. Det ska trots allt vara en hyperexklusiv doft och en sådan förknippar man inte med tvättmedel, även om herr Parfumistas spontana kommenter var att "det luktar tvättmedel men ett exklusivt sådant".

Antonia är för mig en ljusgrön doft med accenter av ljust gult. En glad påsk och vårdoft med substans. Håller mer än hela dagen utan att fragmenteras på huden och har en lagom projektion. Välbalanserad där noterna flyter i varandra, med god kvalitet i ingredienserna. Elegant och bärbar dagtid, perfekt för eftermiddagsthe på Hotel Sacher. För att uppnå liknande effekt men UTAN tvättmedelsnot och till en lägre investeringskostnad, prova just AG:s Heure Exquise EDP. Till Antonias försvar ska sägas att den kräsnäsade herr Parfumista tycker att Antonia är bättre än HE.

Betyg: 3 + (hade det inte varit för tvättmedelsnoten hade det blivit 4)

Noter: Ylang-ylang, jasmin, ros, irisrot, geranium, murgröna, vanilj, vetiver.

Puredistance - Antonia (english version)

So for the last of my Puredistance samples, Antonia. Antonia is just as 1 created by Annie Buzantian. After testing M (on Mr. Parfumista) and 1 on myself  I was a bit disappointed, probably because of the high expectations created by all the enthusiastic reviews on various blogs and forums. Therefore I didn't expected much by Antonia. But it turned out to exceed my low expectations. The very first impressions are a bit sharp and green. But then I feel a soft, delicate and more rounded version of Balmain Vent Vert, not the latest version but the prior, ie Calice Becker 1990. After the Vent Vert-phase a crunchy stage occurs with the yellow bulbs as daffodils and tulips. Although no such notes are mentioned in the fragrance pyramid, it's the impression conveyed. In the case of the given iris note, there are nothing of the carrot-like smell that most often is associated with this ingrediens. I guess that it is the irisflower and not the root which is part of Antonia. Antonia recalls to some extent Annick Goutal Heure Exquise, though I feel that H E is slightly darker and denser. The green of Antonia continues down to the basenotes and on the way there are also streaks of white flowers. Unfortunately, when the smell reached the basenotes, or perhaps it starts already somewhere in the middlenotes, a dissonant note occurs, reminiscent of one, luckily, expensive luxury detergent. This is the only negative that I have to say about Antonia. Unfortunately, the irritation of this note increase, the more Antonia dry down. Antonia is a hyper-exclusive fragrance and I don't think parfumeweares like that their expensive fragrance reminds of detergent, even a luxary one. Mr. Parfumistas spontaneous comment also was "it smells like detergent but an exclusive one".

For me Antonia is a light green scent with accents of bright yellow. A happy Easter and springperfume with substance. Does more than the whole day without fragmenting on the skin and has a moderate projection. Well balanced with notes flowing into each other, with highquality ingredients. Stylish and wearable daytime, perfect for teatime at the Hotel Sacher. To achieve a similar effect but WITHOUT the note of detergent and at a lower investment cost, try AG Heure Exquise EDP. To Antonias defense should be mentioned that the picky Mr Parfumista think Antonia is better than H E.

Rating: 3 + (had it not been for the detergent-note it had been 4)

Notes: Ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, orris, geranium, ivy, vanilla, vetiver. 

Puredistance - M

Bild: Carnations, Wikipedia, (some rights reserved)

Lyxparfymmärket Puredistance gör parfymer av högkvalitativa råvaror till ganska häftiga prislappar, ialla fall om man ska ha lull-lull flaskor utformade som kristallpelare. De finns också i enklare förpackningar och är inte heller då billiga per ml men man ska betänka att det är en högkoncentrerad blandning, ungefär som parfym. Hittills har Puredistance tagit fram tre dofter och M är den första doften som lutar mest åt herrhållet även om den klassats som unisex.

Lutar åt herrhållet, ja visst gör den, för M i starten är inget annat än en mjukare, snällare och mer koncentrerad form på tema Hermès Belami (den äldre formulan). Ungefär så här skulle Belami dofta om den fanns i parfymform. Faktiskt blir jag rätt besviken. Sådan hype kring Puredistance och M, skapad av parfymexperten Roja Dove och så doftar den så nära gamla välbekanta Belami. Jag känner också spår av Maître Parfumer et Gantiers Ambre Precieux och M ger även vissa associationer till Chanels Antaeus tvålighet (originalformulan) . Känns som om man nu försöker få in en ny generation i ett gammalt beprövat, och för den stora parfympubliken, numera glömt koncept. Och då givetivis till ett högre pris, flaggandes med exklusivitetsflaggan.

Vad doftar då M? Min association av doften är fint läder och lätt nejlika. Det är inte så att M doftar nejlika utan det är den känsla doften förmedlar, därav bilden ovan. M har en klassisk lite tvåligt sträv bergamott-öppning, en lätt kryddighet, som med ros och nejlika ger en varm och kryddig blomnot, en torr talkig tvålighet liknande den i Ambre Precieux och Antaeus, en mjukt och Belamis fina läder, som i ett par tunna, fina läderhandskar. I basen är det mycket fråga om Belamis läder. Det är en väldigt klassisk och bärbar doft för en välklädd medelålders eller äldre herre. Visst kan man som dam också bära doften då den är mjukare och pudrigare än Belami men i min lilla värld är M en herrdoft. M har bra hållbarhet på huden, sitter nästan ett dygn och har en lagom projektion som inte blir påträngande.

M hade fått bättre betyg om det inte varit för att doften känns så familjär och som en förlängning och förstärkning (i koncentrationsstyrka)  av Belami och att den har så mycket likheter med några sedan länge redan etablerade dofter. Det finns helt enkelt ingen nydanande tvist i M.

Betyg: 4

Noter: Bergamott, citron, ros, jasmin, nejlika, trä, vetiver, patchoulli, labdanum, ekmossa, kanel, kryddpeppar, läder, mysk