Oriza L.Legrand - Violette du Czar

Picture: Violette du Czar
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand (c)

Violette du Czar is another re-construction of an old formula from the early 20th century released by venerable perfumehouse Oriza L.Legrand, a which was brought back to business a few years ago.

Violette du Czar starts with a true smell of violet, not artifical, candy sweet, but fresh and natural, as the newly sprung flower in the moisty soil a sunny early day in spring. The violet in this stage reminds me of the violet in Annick Goutal La Violette but without any sweetness. After a while the violetnote steps backwards and the smell of hay contrasted with some light stablenotes appears. In this stage one almost belive the violet has surrendered but soon it steps forward once again together with a flowery irisnote, similar but not quite as vivid to the one in Le Galion Iris. There is also a tangy oldschool soapy Accord,as if there are som citric notes as bergamot present. The soap is very light handed, it's just a touch. The basenotes is balsamic, light woody and with a transparent leathernote, like elegant, long, cream-colored glace gloves accompanying a ball gown. There is something in the overall impression in the this stage thar reminds me of Ramón Monegal Impossible Iris even if the latter is sort of denser and stronger in apperance. When it comes to the transparancy and overall impression of the fragrance, it reminds me of  the texure of Jardins d'Ecrivains La Dame aux Camélias whereas the violet is more present in Violette du Czar, in La Dame... the violet is not as prominent, the orangeblossom is the more distinct flower in the latter.

 Violette du Czar is transparent and light fragrance, the notes  (even the dirty one) are carefully handled and there is a compoistion in the higher octaves of the fragrance notescale. It's refreshing and a perfect elegant daytime fragrance particularly for spring but it's suitable for all seasons when one want something light, refreshing and natural smelling, there is no chemical vibes in this Beautiful fragrance. As Violette du Czar is light it demands generous application. The silage is somewhere betweeen close to medim and longevity for about a day.


Rating: 4
Notes: Violetleaf, violet, violet, iris, heliotrope, tolu balm, russian leather, amber, guaiacwood

Jardins d'Écrivains - Orlando

Picture: Orlando
Photo: PR Jardins d'Écrivains (c)

Orlando is the latest fragrance in the affordable niche line Jardins d'Érivains where the fragrances are inspired of the world of literature. Orlando is of course inspired from the novel of Virginia Woolf and when testing Orlando the great movie with Tilda Swinton relives.

Orlando starts balsmaic, cool, fizzy-spicy and the balsamic/spicy impression lasts during the whole dry down. Notes appears that reminds me of expensive retro bubblebath + dirt (like in a stable) + the almost plasticlike (vinyl) note that sometimes emerges from shiny new leather is an intriguing accord that conveys an impression of the immortal Orlando, present in so many centuries. This accord is  counterbalanced by the mysterious dark, spicy, balsamic and musky basenotes which creates a sort of timeless impression. Orlando has a dry, powdery-putty-balsamic texture and is comfortable in the same time as it's evocative and fires the imagination as there are new nuances to find at every turn. Orlando is very much it's own fragrance but I find some similarities with another a bit "strange" perfume, Psychotrope from Parfumerie Générale. Psychotrope is flowery where Orlando is spicy but the clean. cold. almost leatherlike note as also the bubblebathy are present in both. The initial spicy, sparkling impression of ginger, also have something in common with Aus Liebe zum Duft No 1 but the gingernote is not as sharp in Orlando as in the latter. As Orlando has developed for some hours in the basenotes, it suddenly becomes stronger in apperance and in this stage, Orlando reminds me of the classic Robert Piguet Bandit.

Orlando, just as its role model is a genuine unisex fragrance despite Mr Parfumista thinks it's leaning more to the masculine side and and I think it's slight more feminine. Orlando is appropriate both for work and casual, it has good stayingpower, about a day at least, and the sillage is medium. Orlando is IMO the most interesting and original fragrance from Jardins d'Écrivains so far.

Rating: 5

Notes: Orange, pink pepper, ginger; amber, patchouli , cloves, guaiac wood, peru balsam, musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test.

Jardins d'Écrivains - Wilde

Picture: Oscar Wilde (1854-1900) ca 1882
Photo by: Napoleon Sarony (1821-96)
Wikimedia Commons

Wilde, just as George reviewed latly, is inspired of another 19th century cultperson: Oscar Wilde. Wilde is  another wellcrafted creation from the french nichehouse Jardins d'Écrivains, labled as "pour homme" but I think its at least as unisex as George.

Wilde starts with an unusual, slight powdery,tea-infused, bergamot-citric, tart and in the same time smooth and almost creamy accord. As the fragrance dries down, the tea and some dark, slight balsamic herbal-spicy-green notes, which I think is derived from the carnation appears and adds even more dept to the fragrance. The base is wellblended mossy-green-woody whith the notes in  seamless interaction. When Mr Parfumista tested Wilde he also experienced a oat-like note, a softer version of a note present in Essenza di Zegna from Ermenegildo Zegna. On my skin Wilde is more about bergamot, tea and carantion. Another fragrance that Wilde reminds me of is Agua de Loewe by Loewe. That despite the latter is sharper and dominated by citrus/cardamom and the former is smoother, softer, darker and more elegant. The almost creamy smooth and comfortable texture of Wilde also reminds me of Oscar de la Renta Essential Luxuries Santo Domingo but SD is more spicy. In color and texture I can image Wilde as beeing creamy, moisty, mossy green and Santo Domingo as creamy but in the same time dry, terracotta.

Picture: Wilde by Jardins d'Erivains
Photo: PR Jardins d'Erivains (c)

Wilde is intriguing and in the same time pleasant to wear. The sillage is medium and longevity just as with George very good, about 24h. Perfect for spring and summer, a fragrance that will resist warm tempratures without fading away.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, grape, fig, carnation, tea, oakmoss, vetiver

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Jardins d'Écrivains - George

Picture: George Sand (1804-1876)
 Portrait by Auguste Charpentier (1838),
Wikimedia Commons

Jardins d'Écrivains is French nichehouse which started with scented candles and bathproducts and lately also added perfumes to their line. Jardins d'Écrivains in its style, is inspired of litterature combined with the interest of gardens. The four perfumes in the line whereof two leaning at the masculine side and therefore (and as "skintime" is rare when it comes to me :-) the testing of these fragrances, George and Wilde is delegated to Mr Parfumista. Below I have summerized his impressions of George while Wilde will follow in the next review.

George is of course inspired of the 19th century cultwoman Aurore Dupin married Dudevant aka George Sand who already have some fragrances named after her: Histoires de Parfums 1804 George Sand and Les Parfums Historique (MPG) Eau de Parfum de George Sand. When applying the reaction was "This smells so similar to something else" and after a short while everything went clear: One of the greatest classic tobacco-leather ever, Knize Ten, but George is smoother and gentler in appearance, adapted to the stripped down  fragranceastetic of the general public of today.  There is also a difference in notes: Where Knize Ten intermediates the scent of the clean woolen cloth of an tailor-made suit and tabacco, George intermediates the scent of fresh,dark, green conifer during a warm and windy summerday and tabacco. The green, coniferaccord is of the same spirit as in Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilèe but deeper and darker and without the smoky note of NE.

George is a year arounder and it's fresher character compared to Knize Ten makes it suitable also for more casual events than the more formal Knize. Mr Parfumista likes George very much but comments: "It's sort of a contemporary Knize but not fully accomplished in the way Knize is".George is classified as unisex but leaning towards the masculine side, for those who cares about such petty details. Sillage is medium and longevity for about 24h.

As the forerunner Knize is the original, George just almost reach the highest rating. If there was no Knize forerunner, George would reach the highest score. George is an exellent alternative for those who thinks Knize Ten is too heavy and oldfashioned, which it's not, as it's timeless, but that's of course just my personal opinion :-). George is also a good example of that very good perfumes could be made today also despite all IFRA-restrictions and it is also, just as the whole Jardins d'Écrivains-line, an axample of that good fragrances could also be reasonable priced SEK 725/USD ca 114/EUR ca 83 for 100 ml.

Rating: 4 or 4+ depending on perspective, with or without comparing to Knize Ten

Notes: Neroli, bergamot, heliotrophe, coffee, tobacco, peru balsam, musk, myrrh

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Parfums de Nicolaï - Eau sOleil

Picture: Eau sOleil
Photo: PR Parfums de Nicolaï (c)

Eau sOleil is the latest addition to the successful Parfums de Nicolaï Eau Fraiche-line in which one light and casual fragrance is released each summer. Eau sOleil, created by Patricia de Nicolaï as always, is featuring neroli.

Eau sOleil opens with a mellow nerolinote, creamy, on the verge to powdery, in texture. The image it evokes is dark , just like the background of the picture above. The neroli is contrasted by a mix of fresh citrusnotes and fresh note of thyme and the bitter herbal note from wormwood. As the citrusnotes decline, Eau sOleil gets more flowery, with the orangeblossom still dominating. The creaminess is present during the whole dry down of the fragrance and it lends Eau sOleil a smooth and pleasant expression. The blend is anchored in patchouli and musk which gives Eau sOleil an excellent longevity for a fragrance categoreized as an Eau Fraiche. The musky base is also present in the rework of the classic Annick Goutal soliflore Néroli, Les Colognes Néroli, but cleaner in this lighter and more straightforward neroli interpretation.In the basenotes, Eau sOleil is almost retro in style and it reminds me of the beautiful La Dame aux Camélias from Jardins d'Ecrivains. The neroli interpretation also has resemblance with the Patricia de Nicolaï classic Cologne Sologne but that one is simpler in construction and more of an old school cologne IMO.

Eau sOleil is not the bright, spakling, fizzy soliflore "Eau de Neroli", Eau sOleil is a deeper and a bit more complicated fragrance with its contrasting herbal and creamy notes. To me it's a orange/herbal dominated standard Edt not a lighter/brighter Eau Fraiche and I think one should take that into consideration when judging Eau sOleil. I have read some reviews which are slightly dissapointed on Eau sOleil, among other complaining about the restrained neroli in the dry down. Probably the reviewers expect a sparkling colognestyled fragrance and therefore doesn't judge Eau sOleil on its own merits. To me, Eau sOleil is the best and most intriguing fragrance in the Patricia de Nicolaï Eau Fraiche-line so far.

As almost always with Patricias creations, a well blended and casual chic fragrance. Very versatile and appropriate for daytime wearing year around. Longevity for 12 h+ with medium sillage. Those who likes Prada Infusion Fleur d'Oranger will probably also appreciate Eau sOleil.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Lemon, mandarin, bergamot, petitgrain, herbal thyme, wormwood, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli, patchouli, musk

Thanks to Parfums de Nicolaï for the sample to test

Jardins d'Écrivains - Gigi

Picture: Gigi by Jardins d'Écrivans
Photo: PR Jardins d'Écrivains (c) 

Gigi is the other feminine floral in the literature and garden inspired fragranceline of the house of Jardins d'Écrivains. Gigi is inspired of La Belle Époque and Colettes novel Gigi, about a parisian girl groomed to be a courtesan by her grandmother.

Gigi starts with a sunny accord of orangeblossom, tubereuse and jasmin supported by some fresh greenery and a hint of a cocos note often recognized together with tubereuse, I think it's one facet of the flowers scent. Soon also a subdued fruity note appears which deepens the fragrance just a bit, but the transparant sparkling impression is still dominating. Further in the dry down an almost nailpolish like note (but not in the chemical way) appears but in a pleasant way. I think it's the black currant paired with the, in this stage, nondescript white flowers that creates this effect. The base is moderately woody-musky and supports the other notes in a in a harmonious way.

Moderate I think is the right way to describe Gigi. It's a nice and gentle without any strange passages, a typical IFRA/EU compliant floral fragrance of today. Gigi is not in the putty/powdery/soapy floral genre which is typical for the releases of the latest year, Gigi is clean, transparant, white floral. Unfortunately it seems as my skin almost eat Gigi, and even if there is clear traces left after a day of wearing, the fragrance ends up somehow bland for me. Even the other feminine Jardins d'Écrivains the cologne La Dame aux Camélias appears much clearer, is more distinct and creates images to me, than the Edp Gigi. Gigi is very officefriendly and easy to wear.

Those who likes fragrances like Prada Infusion de Tubereuse, the original Gianfranco Ferré (with the same name) and Ramón Monegal  Kiss My Name and Lovely Day, despite the three latter are way more distinctive and have more expressed personalities, I think also could appreciate Gigi.

Rating: 3

Notes: Freshly cut grass, orangeblossom, neroli, tubereuse, jasmin, blackcurrant, sandalwood,white musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of  Gigi

Jardins d'Écrivains - La Dame aux Camélias

Picture: Marie Duplessis (1824-1847)
Watercolor by Camille Roqueplan (1802-1855)

La Dame aux Camélias from french nichhouse Jardins d'Écrivains is something so unusual as a Cologne de Nuit, a cologne to be used for bedtime pleasures. Of course any type of light fragrance could be used if one have the need to be perfumed round the clock but La Dame aux Camélias seems to be perfectly composed for the purpose as it not has the effervescent and uplifting effect as citrusdominated colognes.

La Dame aux Camélias starts with classic orangeblossom cologne notes blended with green and supported with a very smooth cardamom. The impression is that of  freshly laundered high quality linen sheets but without any contemporary detergent note. After a while an accord of delicate, subtle a bit oldfashioned (in a good way) and chilly flowers joins. The scent is clean but underneeth there is something almost on the verge to dirty, light animalic and maybe it's the indolic facet of orangeblossom that makes itself known combined with the musk and powdery tonka of the base. La Dame aux Camélias is a fragrance that triggers the imagination, I can well imagine that this was the scent of the exclusive linen sheets of the real Dame aux Camélias, the courtesan Marie Duplessis who also was the mistress of Alexandre Dumans the younger and the model for Marguerite Gautier in his novel La Dame aux Camélias (1848).

Beeing a colognestyled fragrance, La Dame aux Camélias should be applied liberally and if so, it lasts for a day, anyway if the weather is rainy and the conditions are humid. La Dame aux Camélias is intruiging and in the same time easy and pleasant to wear, entirely officefriendly. And the genereous 250 ml bottle is so beautiful....

Picture: La Dame aux Camélias
Photo: PR Jardins D'Ecrivains

Those who like fragrances such as Prada Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger, Guerlain L'Heure Bleue Edt and Parfumerie Générale Corps et Ames Eau de Toilette Apaisante will probably also appreciate La Dame aux Camélias.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Verbena, cardamom, orange blossom, violet, rose, camellia, tonka bean, musk, juniper wood

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of  La Dame aux Camélias