SOTD March 2022

Picture: An adorable sight on a walk in early March
 (wearing Putredistance No. 12) -
Shetland Ponies are the cutiest.
Photo: Parfumista (c)

March 2022 - some notes about the SOTD.

1. Chance Eau Tendre Edp (Chanel) Musky light rosy, fruity - pink with lilac nuance

2. Angel Edp (Mugler) The ultimate mulitfacetted gourmand.

3. Sheiduna Extrait (Puredistance) Glowing, golden spicy ambery like sun rays over desert dunes.

4. Sheiduna Extrait (Puredistance) on repeat, one of my top Puredistances.

5. Warszawa Extrait (Puredistance) the dark fresh moss paired with dark plum in such a elegant way.

6. Gucci Oud Edp (Gucci) raspberry and dark pink rose over patchouli and well balanced oud.

7. Puredistance No 12  Extrait (Puredistance) A seamless blend of rose, iris and an accord like cristal clerar water  with a tiny bit of exclusive soap over a velvet smooth patchouli. Blue. Another of my top Puredistances.

8. Puredistance No 12  Extrait (Puredistance) another day in this beauty.

9. Peut Etre Edp (Maison Lancome) Light pink rose over musk, very pleasant and uncomplicated.

10. Lost in the city Edp (Miller Harris) Tangy rhubarb over rose with some zing from blackberry, close to Hermes Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate, which I like better, one of my favorites from the Hermes colognes.

11. Café Tuberosa Edp (Atelier Cologne) Thick tubereuse, dark chocolade and dark coffe in a delicious blend. 

12. Café Tuberosa Edp (Atelier Cologne) Couldn't resist it for another day.

13. Essence de Patchouli Edp (Perris Monte Carlo) Soapy, sort of dusty, musky dark and cold patchouli,  with a touch of something that reminds me of  a burning mosquito coil in a positive way. Unusual.

14. Coromandel Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) Earthy and clean patchouli over a balanaced dry dark chocolade amber, less sweet and more structured than the current Edp. The Edp is also very good although I prefer the Edt slightly.

15. Borneo 1834 Edp (Serge Lutens) Earthy fresh slight herbal-menthol dry dark chocolate  patchouli. Not as elegant as Coromandel, outdoorsy, classy - casual 

16. Akkad Edp (Lubin) Warm, sunny, sort of desert amber, delicious, perfect for snuggling.

17 Ambre 114 (Histoires de Parfums) Dark, herbal amber, leaning to the masculine side, classic styled amber, slight "old man" style.

18. Concentre d'Orange Verte (Hermès) I like the Concentre better for colder months with it's thicker texture and a hint of a note that reminds me of licorie which is not present in the  Eau d'Orange Verte. Both variations on a unique intermpretation of the classic colognetheme.

19. After My Own Heart (Ineke) Lovely smooth lilac with fruity notes. Comforting, warmer, sweeter and with more body than En Passant (Fredric Malle).

20. Eau de Soir Edp (Sisley) Elegant and sparkling like Champagne, I think of it as colored in gold and white, cool with beautiful, light, uplifting mossy notes. Have something in common with Puredistance No 12, similar texture and mode. Referring to a batch from mid -00, before the oakmoss regulations.

21. No 5 Eau Première  (Chanel) Smoother, sunnier, warmer not as serious cold and chalky as No 5 Edt. Easier to wear, lighter with the aldehydes. Classy. Referring to the 2008 version.

22. Concentre d'Orange Verte (Hermès) Sunny and early spring outside inspires to wear the green orange again. For the evening  No 5 Eau Première  (Chanel) on repeat.

23. Gabrielle Essence Edp (Chanel) A warm floral heart with a contrasting touch of tart notes probably from the fruity topnotes. Very pleasant, the perfect inoffensive officescent. Just like the greener and colder Gabrielle Edp.

24. Gabrielle Essence Edp (Chanel) Again - It just smells so good and is so easy to wear.

25. Dune Edt (Dior) Late 1990s formula of Dune, dry, salty, sandy, warm, sunny, high blue sky with glimpses of the sea in the horizon. Still so special.

26. Dune Edt (Dior) Couldn't resist another day in Dune, it's perfect to warming up this  cold, windy Saturday.

27. Orchid Leather Edp (Van Cleef  & Arpels) Dark, plummy leather, concentrated, a bit too masculine for me.

28: Nothing sick in flu or something similar.

29:  The same

30:  The same

31: Red Roses Cologne (Jo Malone)  Feels better celebrating with a few spritzes of this wonderful natural clean and calming rose.

It seems as Puredistance and Chanel (again) are the most worn during the month.

Puredistance No 12

 

Picture: No 12, 17,5 ml
Parfume extrait 25%
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Puredistance No 12 is the last creation in the Puredistance circle of extraits de parfum. There will be just twelve fragrances at time in the Magnificent XII Collection, when a new fragrance is launched, it will replace one of the other twelve. But fear not, the retired perfumes will still be able to order directly from Puredistance from a Private Collection.

Puredistance No 12 is created by masterparfumer Nathalie Feisthauer the creator of  many fragrances for example two favourites of mine  ELd'O Putain de Palaces and Hermès Eau des Merveilles (with Ralf Schweiger).The opening of No 12 is bright and shiny, there is a clean and abundant, full mandarine note which, even if close in its texture is not at all sweet and thick like marmelade. It's paried with an elegant vintage touch of bergamot, and bracing cardamon. In the frirst spritz of No.12, the opulence of this contemporary chypre with vintage vibes, is obvious. Almost in the same moment as the topnotes hits the skin, other layers in the blend introduces themselves. The beautiful, clean rose, the flower, no torns and greenery either not the rubbery note of roseoil, the seamless blend of jasmine and other classic notes as orange flowers, narcissus, lily of the vally and orris. The notes are so masterfully blended and therefore the different notes are hard separate, they just  mingles in smooth, creamy accords, fleeting like a heavenly (blue) symphony. 

The patchouli in the base of No 12 is together with rose, orris, mandrain and cardamom the note that, to my nose, stands out the most in the fragrance. The patchouli in No 12 is not used that much in todays perfumery: It's a clean (but not stripped down), cosy, soft like cashmere, sort of dry, almost powdery earthy dark chocolate type, which smothness blends lovely with the notes mentioned and with the ingredient of all real chypres: Oakmoss. The patchouli and oakmoss combo adds a clean dept to No 12.  I've found something close to this particular patchoulinote in  two totally different and more one dimensional interpretations; in  Perris Monte Carlo Essence de Patcholuli and Davidoff Zino Davidoff. None of them as smooth, elegant and creamy as No 12, theese fragrances are more of "one note"  patchouli fragrances. Another fragrance that comes to my mind is the beautiful floral chypre La Perla (the original version from 1987), although No 12 is more contemporary in style.

Picture: No 12 in all sizes
Photo: Puredistance (c)

The impression of No 12 is that of total cleanness, like clean water in a mountian stream. But the water is thick and accompanied by many nuances, for example something like a clean luxury soap even if the texture of No 12 is not soapy. It's a fragrance that surprise, with different wearings, different accords/notes stands out, some wearings I can smell a faint leather note (smooth leather from inside a luxary handbag),iris paired with a clean earthy impression. 

Compared to last years  Rubikona, No 12 is brighter and higher on the fragrance note scale, Rubikona is more muted and dark, like silky velvet, where No 12 is like fluid tick silk in texture. Both are chypres, where No12 is more of an elegant carefree daytime fragrance and Rubikona is more serious, leaning to a evening event, although both could be worn around the clock. The blue No 12 to me is a glimmering faceted, cornflower blue saphire, framed in white gold, whereas Puredistance Gold which I associated with a saphire, is a darker, cabochon cut dark saphire framed in muted gold. 

Picture: Queen Maxima of the Netherlands,
in the Mellorio Sahppire Tiara
Photo from: Pinterest photographer unknown/
Royal roaster tumbler dot com (c) 

If Rubikona evoked the vision of  the "fit and proper" powerwomen, the EU President Ursula van der Leyen, No 12 is the perfume of a Queen. The queen I come to think of is, appropriately Queen Maxima of the Netherlands. As it seems from what is written in the press, a warm, colourful and sparkling personality sometimes appearing in an elegant, bohemian chic style. The color of No 12 is regal blue, like the saphires in Maxima's imposing tiara.

Although Rubikona and No 12 are in the same family, very elegant well constructed and wearable modern chypres, I could not choose a favourite. Both are equally good and complements each other, one have to have both for variation. The overall impression of No 12 is like a sunny day, with blue sky, full of joy and complete effortless.  The parfum is timeless and proper both for casual chic and formal events. Regardless of the occasion No 12 really lifts the spirits and is a ride in true comfort. 

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Cardamom, Coriander, Ylang Ylang, Narcissus Absolute, Jasmin Absolute, Rose, Geranium, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom, Osmanthus Absolute, Orris Butter, Heliotrope, Hedione, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Oak Moss, Tonka, Ambrette, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Musk

Perris Monte Carlo - Santal du Pacifque EDP & Extrait

Picture: Staute of Ganesha in sandalwood
Photo by Ricce
Wikimedia commons 

The Santal du Pacifque duo (Edp & Extrait) was released 2016 together with the Absolue d'Osmanthus duo from monegasque perfumhouse Perris Monte Carlo. Both are a part of a range of perfumes which presents  "singlenotes" in different settings and interpretations. Here is my previous reviews of the line.

Picture: Santal du Pacifique EDP
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Santal du Pacifique starts with a warm, sparkling, transparent sandalwood. with a prominent fignote. I think fig is a part of sandalwood as it's present also in for example By Kilian Sacred Wood  which is the sandalwood fragrance which is most similar to Santal du Pacifique from what I come to think of when wearing Santal du Pacifique especially in the Edp concentration. The Edp concentration is woodier and denser than the Extrait which emphasizes the flowery and light spicy aspects of sandalwood. Both versions lacks the cocoa accent which is present in sandalwoodfragranceas as Sacred Wood and Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule and are therefore lighter in apperance. The Edp is deeper, warm, smooth woody as one can imagine the scent of a piece of polished sandalwood in the sunset, warmed by the sun during the day. There are also darker, a bit pleasant dirty barnyardnotes glimpsing from the depts of the Edp contrasting the fresh sandalwood. In the later stages the SdP Edp reminds me lot of Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Edt but less green.As the latter has sandalwood as a prominent note beside the vetiver, that's not surprising especially as both fragrances has the similar tonality on the fragrance notescale. When it comes to the Extrait this version,as mentioned above, is more of a arier, soft woody floral with some warm dry salty, spicy elements. In the middlenotes there are also contrasting notes of a damp vegetation, in the same good way as the barnyardnotes in the Edp. A hint of the figgy note persist duting the whole dry down of the Extrait and contributes to a seaish impression and the overall impression is that the Extrait has some similarities with Hermès Epice Marine even if less spicy.

Picture: Santal du Pacifique Extrait
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Santal du Pacifique is a versatile, casual elegant and comforting fragrace which could be worn year around. It's unisex even if the Edp probably will attract men more as it's less flowery and more woody. The Edp has medium sillage and the Extrait is close. Longevity for the Edp is over 12h and the Extrait almost for a day.
A clean and pared down contemporary sandalwood which smells natural and not of perfumery.

Rating: 5

Notes: Sandalwood, floral notes

Perris Monte Carlo - Absolue d'Osmanthe Edp & Extrait

Picture: Absolue d'Osmanthe Edp
Photo: Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Perris Monte Carlo have created a wellcrafted line of fragrances and I have reviewed most of them during the latest year. Recently there are two additions, or to be completely true, four additions as each fragrance is avaible in a Edp and in a Extrait formula. First out for test and review is Absolue d'Osmanthe Edp & Extrait.

Absolue d'Osmanthe starts beautiful with a thick, flowery, sweet osmanthusnote. I've hardly smelled such a dense/thick osmanthus before, most of them I've tested before has been more diluted and with a tealike impression. After a while a pleasant barnyard note arrives adding a retro vibe to the blend. Smooth velvey flowers fading down the barnyard and an accord which reminds me of the taste of ceratin pastel patterned, fruity pastilles which was chewy and rectangular. I don't remember the name and it's probably discontinued as I haven't see the product in this millenium. Beside this pastille, there is also a light apricot, suedelike nuance in the fragance. Absloue d'Osmanthe reminds me of a much more discret and not as bold and vivid Yvresse from Yves Saint Laurent. As Absolue d'Osmanthe dries down a beautiful, well rounded, smooth, sandalwood appears connecting and anchors the fragrance together with warm and balsamic basenotes. The sandalwood is prominent

Picture: Absolue d'Osmanthe Extrait
Photo: Perris Monte Carlo (c)

The Edp and Extrait versions has the same notes, expect rose petals are added to the extrait, and smells similar. The Edp is in the higher ocataves of the fragrance notescale and more airy in apperance, the extrait is vevety, dark, rounder, smoother and more mature. The Edp emphasize the woody notes of the base and the Extrait the balsamic combined with the sandalwood in a subtle way. The different versions complement eachother, the Edp is perfect for wearing dayly especially in spring and summer, the Extrait is for the evening and for autumn and winter. The Extrait would be very nice as a perfume accompanying for Christmas.

Longevity is about almost a day when it comes to the Edp and between 12h - 24 h for the Extrait, depending on how much is applicated from the start. Sillage is close for both. Even if smelling very nice, the sillage and longevity of the extrait is not as good on my skin as of my favorite of the Perris Extraits so far, Ylang Ylang Nosy Be

Rating: 4

Notes: Osmanthus, jasmine sambac, sandalwood, vanilla, labdanum, tolu balsam

Perris Monte Carlo - Ylang Ylang Nosy Be Extrait

Picture: Adele Bloch-Bauer's Portrait (1907)
Painting; oil, silver and gold on canvas by Gustav Klimt (1862-1919)Wikimedia commons

Ylang Ylang Nosy Be is the other of the first issued Nosy Be fragrances, see more information in the earlier review of Perris Monte Carlo Patchouli Nosy Be.

Starts with a burst of sweet floral and rounded citrusy fruity notes without any sharpness from the grape/lemon just a juicy, bright cloud. It's a very sunny accord, if the accord had a color it could be imagined as somewhere between glowing orange and yellow with golden elements glittering. The fruity-floral notes are sweet but natural and not at all chemical smelling, the ylang-ylang is just golden flowery delicious without any trace of the almost banana like note that sometimes show up in this floral note. The cardamon provides a soft, spicy green balance but it's hardly detectable as a singular note as it's so well integrated with fruits and flowers. There is a sort of electrical vibe to the fragrance, a very light metallic tinge like the snell in the air when the sun breaks through between two thunderstorms. This is also the case with the jasmine, rose and orangeblossom, they're interacting in perfectly blended accords. The basenotes are calming the flowers with vetiver, soft woods, resin and the same delicate vanilla as in Patchouli Nosy Be.  In the  later stages of the drydown, a juicy rose wich has similarities with thé juicy rose in La Rose from Le Galion steps a forward from the flowery blend even if ylang ylang is still clearly present. Ylang ylang Nosy Be as a whole is a quite linear fragrance and wearing it is like floating around in a warm, comforting, golden flow like Adele Bloch-Bauer on the famous Klimt painting.

Compared to the few other ylang-ylang fragrances Ive tested M.Micallef Ylang in Gold and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Fleur des Comores the Perris interpretetion is ticker, denser and more concentrated to the ylang-ylang. Ylang in Gold is more creamy and beachy in apperance , Fleur des Comores is more about a classic sweet, flowery vanilla with the typical slight animalic MPG ambery base.

Picture: Ylang Ylang Nosy Be
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Ylang Ylang Nosy Be is lavish and very feminine in style and it suits for daytime wearing year around. It's a natural sweet and strong fragrance which has to be applied carefully to avoid a too sweet apperance. Sillage is medium to big and longevity great, there is unfragmented  traces left on skin after 24h, 24 extremely comforting hours.

Rating: 5

Notes: Ylang-ylang, lemon, grapefruit, cardamom, jasmine, orange blossom, damask rose, labdanum, vetiver, cedar, vanilla, field scabious

Easter fragrances 2016

Picture: Imperial Coronation Egg (Fabergé),
photographed at an exhibition in Rome
Photo: Miguel Hermoso Cuesta (cc)
Wikimedia Commons some rights reserved

This year I'll skip to find something to the usual Easter fragrance categories (gourmand-sweet, churchy-incense, green-crispy- leafy-bulbflowery) from which I pick fragrances suitable for Easter. Instead I'll pay attention to some fragrances which pleases me extra right now.

Heliotrope Blanc (Oriza L.Legrand): Ok this one suits perfectly in my traditional gourmand sweet category. Fluffy, alamonds, powder and vanilla, this is cosiness and comfort at it's best. The smell recalls  the sweetest of Easterbunnis.

Black Opium Edp (Yves Saint Laurent): I know I'm taken the risk to be written of as a serious perfumista by admitting that I feel very comfortable in Black Opium and I think it smells quite good. And so does also Mr Parfumista "This one smells better on you than many of the niche fregrances you're testing". Another one in the sweet territory.

Rosarium (Angela Ciampagna): A calming and contemplating, smooth rose incense, like taking a break sitting down in a small italian medival rual chapel a warm summerday.

Shermine (Huiteme Art): This furry iris/lavender with its very special almost chalky citrus note attracts compliments from those around. Perfect for the early wintery Easter of this year.

Marions Nous (Oriza L.Legrand): Recently I've been in an Oriza circle, I just can't get enough of the fragrances from this house. Marions Nous is a successful intepreation of an 1920s aldehyde fragrance. Sparkling, almost refreshing and in the same time with animalic notes lurking from it's depts. A fragrance which becomes better with each wearing.

Allure Sensuelle Edp (Chanel): A incrediable comforting fragrance in the Coco Mademoiselle - Coco Noir style but more fruity and with less patchouli  Smoother and rounded compared to the former two, a forgotten gem in the Chanelline.

Ylang-Ylang Nosy Be Extrait (Perris Monte Carlo): Last but not least the beautiful, intense, glowing, sweet, flowery, vanillic interpretation of one of the most faithful flowery teammates of "parfums de femme" the ylang-ylang.

Happy Easter!

Perris Monte Carlo - Patchouli Nosy Be Extrait

Picture: Nosy Be
Photo: from Pinterest 

Patchouli Nosy Be is the most recent patchouli fragrance from Perris Monte Carlo. The Nosy Be part of the name is from the island suitiated on the north west of Madagascar, the island is famous for cultivating ylang-ylang, coffe and vanilla but the climate is suitiable also for other spices and flowers. The Nosy Be Patchouli is a successful experiment where the manager of the ylang-ylang plantation of the well known fragrance ingredients producer Robertet planted patchouli on the Nosy Be Island. Here the patchouli plants could be protected from the sharp sunlight by the foliage of other plants and this favorable cultivation combined with a careful harvesting process creates a high class multifacetted patchouli oil. The Nosy Be fragrances of Perris are as today, also an Edp version of Patchouli Nosy Be, which was released 2014 a year before the extrait, as also an Ylang Ylang Nosy Be in Edp and Extrait. These will be reviewed later on.

Patchouli Nosy Be starts with the herbal, leafy, almost fresh, patchouli which is present in most niche patchouli offerings from the latest years, an early example is Histories de Parfums Noir Patchouli but this one is sharper, rougher and more transaparent in its herbal leafiness. Also Franck Boclet Patchouli comes to my mind in the initial accords. After a while warm spices appears, predominantly pepper, blended with a note of cacao simlar to the combination in for example Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly and Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 even if the latter is darker and denser. The pepper, which I also think is strengthend from the cedarwood in the base, is a bit too distinctive to my nose/taste for a short part of the dry down but is fortunately softened when a beautiful vanilla is sneeking in step by step in this contemporary woody-spicy blend with a patchouli addition. To me  Patchouli Nosy Be is not so much about patch as it is of spices, wood and vanilla, the patch is just one of the well bakanced, interplaying accords.The earlier Perris patchouli Essence de Patchouli, is much more of patchouli, more extreme and uncommon and personally I prefer this over Patchouli Nosy Be when I crave a real patchfrag. The best part of Patchouli Nosy Be is definitliy the comforting base where the spicy mixed patch is contrasted by a beautiful very natural smelling, slight flowery vanilla and discrete woody notes. The base note accords comes and goes like waves with a slight different highlighting of each of the main notes in different waves. It's a true delight wearing this perfume.

Picture: Patchouli Nosy Be Extrait
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Patchouli Nosy Be is a versatile warm fragrance, suitable for autumn, winter and early spring. It's unisex and could be worn both for work and casual. Sillage is medium and longevity good, more then a day, traces are left on skin after a nights sleep.

Rating: 5

Notes: Patchouli, pink pepper; cocoa, labdanum, vanilla, cedarwood, sandalwood

Perris Monte Carlo - Oud Imperial Edp & Extrait

Picture: Illustration from Persian version of
"One Thousand and One Nights" (1849-56)
Painter: Sani ol molk (1814-66)

Perris Monte Carlo Oud Imperial  is another, to my nose much more masculine take, on the oud theme than the earlier reviewed Bois d'Oud. As the other Perris fragrances,  Oud Imperial  is created by Luca Maffei. The first issue of Oud Imperial Edp was avaible in a golden bottle, after that there was some improvements in the raw materials and today Oud Imperial Edp is avaible in the black Perris bottle.

Starts cold, with a fresh woody character which reminds me of confier and has some similarities to accords in Robert Piguet Oud. Some wearings highlighets a note similar to petroleum which glimpses by, other wearings it's not that present. The same happens with a turphentine like note, similar to the one in Lorenzo Villoresi Piper Nigrum. When Oud Imperial dries further down it turns darker and warmer, with an oily texture and some light, smooth smoke. There is also something leathery to it. The oud becomes more present in this stage and it smells very autentic woody and it's lightly infused with a smooth almost nutty note which I think is present in sandalwood. Somehow Oud Imperial evokes the color of black, maybe the patchouli which is lightly present in the fragrance contributes to that. For most of it's dry down, Oud Imperial reminds me of a denser and darker interpretation of the excellent, dry Montale Original Aouds. Taken as a whole Imperial Oud is a dark and classy very masculine oud. It smells authentic, exotic woody and it's a quite complicated fragrance as it's highlighting different accords, notes and nuances in different wearings depending on dosage, season, weather etc.

The Oud Imperial Extrait is even more oily, darker and has more smoke to it. The leathery note is also more present. As an extrait it has not such radiance as the Edp, it'is a close skinscent, ticker and denser than the Edp. The versions complementing each other and to generalize the Edp is for daytime wearing and the Extrait for the evening.

Picture: Oud Imperial
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Oud Imperial is very strong and has to be applied sparingly. It's a fragrance suitable for autumn and winter but could also be worn in dark, humid summernights. Sillage is strong and longevity for more then 24h for the Edp. The extrait has a close sillage and a lonegvity for 12h+, not as long as the Edp. As said above, this is a very masculine fragrance and frankly I don't feel comfortable to wear it even if I appreciate it's quality and good smell. On the other hand, Bois d'Oud is definitly my cup of tea.

Rating: 5 (on Mr Parfumista who enjoys this very much, especially the Edp and the impression in this post is                 just as much or even more his observations)
              Ratings are the same for both  Edp and Extrait.

Notes: Jasmine, caraway, incense, patchouli, saffron, oud, sandalwood, blackwood, cedar, labdanum, vetiver

Best of 2015

Picture: Lily of the valley
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Last day of 2015 and I don't feel entitled to write this post as I havn't tested a fraction of the many fragrances released this year. I'm also aware of some samples *) of untested 2015s from which I know there will be some I'll like very much.

Regardless my limited testing of 2015 releases, this post optimally should be written in March/April 2016 to catch up, there was a battle between flowers. The winner is Puredistance White with Téo Cabanel Lace Garden as a close contender. White is not only a beautiful, well crafted, high quality fragrance, it's also a very happy fragrance, versatile, elegant and in the same time comforting, easy to wear. A staple for everyday life, as a concept reminding of the also very versatile Jour d'Hermès. Lace Garden is the white floral going contemporary, also happy and elegant, easy to wear but less formal, more casual than White.

Honorable mentions to the lovely, lush, fruity, airy floral Cio Cio San  from Parfums MDCI and in the same vein but a bit spicier; Neela Vermiere Creations Pichola, the creamy non oud - oud 1001 Ouds from Annick Goutal, the spectacular, almost gormand, citric, furry lavender Shermine from Huitème Art and last but not least the cosy, fluffy, lily of the valley vanilla Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk.

Among designerfragrances releases Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu is the winner in my book. I also like Narciso Rodriguez Narciso Edt and Gucci Bamboo. Havn't smelled the praised Alaïa from Alaïa nor Equipage Geranium by Hermès.

A house I started to explore in 2015 was the (relatively) priceworthy, quality nichehouse Perris Monte Carlo. Their Edp:s are great and now I have just started to explore their wonderful Extraits, released in 2015. So Perris is my house of the year, even if in the fragrance business for decades.

*) Still untested 2015's which I suspect I'll like much are: Cuir L'Aigle Russe from Oriza L.Legrand, UNUM Rosa Nigra and Jehanne Rigaud Imperial Poudré. And I definitly must get my nose on Parfums MDCI Les Indes Galantes a late 2015 release.

The scent for Christmas Eve 2015

Picture: It's almost the same temprature (+6 C)
this Christmas Eve as Midsummer Eve 2015 (+10 C).
Therefore this lush summer rose is illustrating this post.
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Once again time for the regular Christmas Eve post:. Scent of Christmas Eve 2015 is a stunning rose - Rose de Taif Extrait by Perris Monte Carlo. This is a high quality fragrance as also the Rose de Taif Edp.

Suits this green, warm Christmas Eve with some sun outside. This beautiful rose is enlightened by subtle spices and a smooth rubbery note from the roseoil. It's just delightful, a sort of thicker and stronger variation of the Edp version. Wearing it feels like rolling around in fresh, just harvested, medium pink rosepetals a warm and sunny day. 

Mr Parfumistas SOTD is Santos de Cartier vintage version, suits well with its spicy, leathery accords.     Last year, also a green Christmas, he wore the same fragrance. Wearing this classic is a recurring habit for Mr Parfumista for Christmas Eves as it has happened for several times.
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last twelve Christmas Eves:

2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

I wish all of you a Great Christmas! As I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.

Perris Monte Carlo - Essence de Patchouli

Picture: Moon over the Mediterranean sea  (Greece)
Photo: Mr Parfumista

Essence de Patchouli is the first patchouli fragrance in the Perris Monte Carlo line. Essence de Patchouli is one of the five first fragrances which were released in 2012, the other four starters are Bois d'Oud (reviewed a few weeks ago), Oud Imperial, Ambre Gris and Musk Extrême. In 2014 a second patchouli fragrance was released, Patchouli Nosy Be which I have not smelled when writing this review but plan to test and review the coming winter. Update March 2016 - review of Patchouli Nosy Be.

Essence de Patchouli starts with a very dark, balck or dark purple if imagine a color, velvety patchouli which is silky in texture. There are also some offsetting almost "ugly" notes that could be associated with mosquito repellent but in a non sharp, again velvety texture. The repellent accord steps backward as Essence de Patchouli dries down but is present in the background to prevent the fragrance to be too polite. The patchouli in this fragrance is not of the ambery type nor the herbal, which are the two cathegories that constitutes 90% of all patchfrags. The patchouli of Essence de Patchouli is instead as the patchouli leaves have been pickled in a musky, dark flowery a tad sweet souse. As Essence de Patchouli dries further down, the dark iris/rose combo becomes more apparent even if they are intergrated to such extent that they are hard to separate from each other. The sliky, light powdery patchouli impression prevail and the powdery note reminds me slightly of the cocapowdernote of Mon Patchouly from Ramon Monegal which is also a patchouli fragrance which is not ambery nor herbal but almost gourmand, which Essence de Patchouli is not. As with some other Perris Fragrances, Essence de Patchouli is grounded in a beautiful, either not chemical nor animalic smelling musk. The musk creates an intense, long-lived fragrance and it pronounces and highlights the other ingredients. Woody notes warmed up with a light touch of resin deepens the fragrance.

Essence de Patchouli mediates the picture and feeling of dining outside on a terrace by the sea a warm mediterranean summereveing with the dark velvettextured sky dark lighted by the silver full moon.
In darkness, texture, mood and apperance Essence de Patchouli reminds me of a forgotten gem which is based on a completely different note (incense) Juozas Statkevicius/Josef Statkus from the designer of the same name.

Picture: Essence de Patchouli
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Essence de Patchouli is appropriate to wear in most seasons, in summer one has to be extra careful when applying, a little goes ong and too much could be totally overwhelming especially when warm weather outside. To me Essence de Patchouli is a feminine creation even if it definitly could be worn by brave men. The silage is moderate to big and longevity for 24h.

Essence de Patchouli is another winner from Perris Monte Carlo, it's not happen often that the releases from house have a hit rate like this house when it comes to fragrances that I think is memorable and longing to wear even after the tests for the review is over.

Those who like Sergel Lutens Borneo 1834, Chanel Coromandel  and Prada Intense will probably also appreciate Essence de Patchouli even if the former three are more gourmand and the latter more floral in style.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, geranium, iris, cedar, guaiac wood, patchouli, musk, labdanum, coumarin

Perris Monte Carlo - Rose de Taif

Picture: Rosa Damascena
Photo/author: Kurt Stüber (cc)
Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Rose de Taif is a classical, intense and beautiful taif rose blend created by the obviously rising star perfumer Luca Maffei for the perfumehouse Perris Monte Carlo. Taif roses are above all damascena roses of different types which are cultivated in the city of Taif in Saudi Arabia, the favorable climate and special soil produces some of the most exclusive roses and thereof also roseoils in the world.

Rose de Taif starts bold with tart, almost medical and very natural smelling rosenotes. The medical smell is not of the oudy character, there is no oud in this creation, but instead of an sort of old fashioned, acied and light spicy character. This vintage feeling reminds me of the cold, anticeptic, light spicy rose of the very beautiful rose of Parfum d'Empire Eau Suave. Just as Eau Suave I imagine the rose in Rose de Taif as velvety pink in color. Where Eau Suave has some fruity elements and coriander Rose de Taif is just soft spicy and there is a clear note of nutmeg coming through.

As Rose de Taif dries down, the tart rose becomes more prominent. The rose smells dry but not dried as in potpourri, it has some light sweetness but absolutely not in the jammy or cosmetic styled way. There is very little of the greenery (leaves and steam) from the rose, Rose de Taif is predominantly about the rose petals even if somehow from the deeper layers of the fragrance, a whisper from the rubbery note of roseoil appears. Also compared to another beautiful blend of taif roses Montale Taif Roses Rose de Taif is about the rose petals wheras Taif Roses also includes the greenery and therefore becomes more sharp and rough in it's appearance. In the basenotes a pleasant musk grounds the whole fragance but there are also light woody elements in the base as also a note or combination of notes that reminds me slight of dark but not smokey tea. Probably the tea impression comes from the rosenote as tea-ish nuances is a part of the great register of roseoil. Even if Rose de Taif darkens a bit in the base, the fragrance is still bright and bold in character.

Picture: The intriguing bottle of Rose de Taif
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Rose de Taif is a classical and strong taif rose blend with many intriguing layers under what in the first impression could appear as a simple rose blend. For me as a roselover, Rose de Taif is one of the absolute best, if not the best tested so far, in the cathegory of natural smelling rosefragrances. It's a real pleasure to wear, suitable for year around, it has a distinct but not obtrusive smell as it attracts compliments. The longevity is great, about 24 hours and it lingers on cloth for days. Unisex IMO even if lending slight to the feminine side. Soon an extrait version of Rose de Taif will be released and concluded from the quality of the Edp version described in this review, the extrait will probably be magnificent.

Rose de Taif could be appreciated by those who likes the lovely blend of different rose types by Annick Goutal, the natural smelling Rose Absolue where Rose Absolue is even more rosesoliflore, without the spicy additions.

Rating: 5

Notes: Nutmeg, lemon, geranium, taif rose, damask rose, musk

Perris Monte Carlo - Bois d'Oud

Picture: Uttewalde Grund
Painting ca 1825 by Caspar David Friedrich (1774-1840)
Wikimedia Commons

Bois d'Oud is a fragrance in the Perris Monte Carlo oud duo, to me it's the more feminine one whereas Oud Imperial is definitly the masculine alternative.

Bois d'Oud starts powerful with a woody, light oudy accord underscored with smokey notes accentuated by a light note almost close to grilled meat or burned leather. This meat/leather note but more distinct is present in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir and to a lesser extent in Amouage Interlude Man where it's matched with a tangy almost rhubarbnote. Further on flowery elements steps forward, the flowers are interwoven with woody elements in an intricate pattern which gives an impression similar to flowery oud, I think it's the cambodian variety. In this stage I recognize the oudy, flowery style of Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud which smells more "vintage/perfumery" (in a positive way). As Bois d'Oud dries further down, the fragrance becomes more woody-spicy and Montale Amber & Spices comes to my mind, later on another Montale shows up the flower-sandalwood Sandalsliver which is brighter, sweeter and is playing in the higher octaves of the notescale. In the basenotes Bois d'Oud reminds me much of a darker, less sweet and more balsamic Sandalsliver with sudden whirls of the smokey notes.

Picture: Bois d'Oud
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Bois d'Oud as a fragrance captures the mystical, dark, forest atmosphere in the Caspar David Friedrich painting above. It's appropriate for dusky autumn and winterdays but it's also developing very well when tested in summertempratures. Bois d'Oud is a strong fragrance, a little will go for long. Longevity is for 24h and sillage is medium or more. Its intensity makes it suitable for a night out. If worn in the office, gently application is recommended.

Rating: 5

Notes: Peach, plum, jasmine, rose, iris, orange blossom, oud, cedar, blackwood, patchouli, vanilla, ambergris, labdanum, musk

Blog anniversary 9 years today

Picture: Autumn roses
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Time flies, it doesn't feel that long since I wrote the last anniversary post, that for the eight years anniversary of the blog.

At the moment I crave some wonderful fragrances from the house of Perris Monte Carlo, reviews will start soon and are planned to be running during the winter. I have also some intriguing samples waiting for test from one of the very best online nicheperfumeshops Fragrance & Art which carries some unusual fragrancelines. Also a sample of the new By Kilian is on its way from Paris.

When it comes to the fragrances worn during weekdays i.e when not much testing going on I can't see any particular trend. It's everything from the heavy YSL Opium to the light Annick Goutal Les Colognes Eau d'Hadrien, maybe this broad variety mirrors the relatively mild weather this autumn, with only a few colder days until now.

And now, lets go for the decade :-)