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måndag 18 april 2016

Etat Libre D'Orange - Rien

Picture: Medival construction site.
Villard de Honnecourt, drawing of a buttress at Reims,
in his album of drawings, ca 1230 - 35. Bibliotheque Nationale

The name of Etat Libre D'Oranges Rien is an understatement to said at least. But that is on the other hand not surprising as it comes to this controventional perfumhouse, at least when it comes to the it's earlier releases. Rien is on of those earlier creations and it is executed by the famous Givaudan perfumer Antoine Lie. About the story behind and the perfumers inspiration of retro perfumes blended in a contemporary style and taken all the restrictions of rawmaterial in consideration that has ruined many of the great classics when reformulated, read the initiated review of Rien at Bois de Jasmin. Rien is one of these "complicated" cult fragrances, analyzed in almost it's every part in different parfumeblogs and forum and here is my version of it: The formula of Rien reviewed is the original, it's said to has been reworked to a softer version in 2014.

The perfume Rien is anything but "rien", instead it is very "très" as very much is going on in this blend. It starts by a very strong and almost overly harsh construction site note that I genreally like. But in Rien it's on the verge of being too much of that particular wet, putty, gritty and slight sweaty note. This note is also present but in a subtler and more pleasant way in Etros Messe de Minuit. There also a note of a tick, almost smokey and dry leather, as in a rough and heavy leather coat. As Rien is a very strong and potent blend one have to be very careful upon application. When sampling and wore a full sprits from the sample on the right arm and a half sprits on the left, I felt a difference in the scent. It smelled much better on the left, lower dose, hand, not as sharp and compact as on the right. But in the stronger concentration there on the other hand are some interesting animalic notes glimpse. As the first, strong blast tunes down, the fragrance turns into a pale pink almost withering rose backed up by a gentle cumminnote, musk and cold green whiffs that resembles geranium. This stage is slight powdery. The blend for a while gets even more dry to my nose and in this stage there is traces that reminds me of Aromatics Elixir by Clinique. But AE is a louder interpretation of the rose, geranium, moss and also distinguish the individual notes more apparently than in Rien, which notes seems to be more mixed together. In the basenotes there are also aimalic notes that is not as distinct in AE. There is an almost animalic furry note among the basenotes together with a distinct musknote and the powdery pale rose that remains subtle. In the middle and basenotes there are many similarities with the beautiful rose-musk combo in Musc Nomade by Annick Goutal and sometimes I'm almost thinking I'm wearing the latter even if MN is more refined and elegant in it's appearance. In the latest stage of the basenotes the rough leather from the earlier stages of Rien returns, but now it seems to be better in balance with the sourrunding notes than in the beginning.

Expect from the almost off-putting opening and topnotes of Rien, the perfume evokes just the right feeling of retroperfumes foremost in the leathery chypre style as Robert Piguet Bandit, Estee Lauder Azureé and Parfumes Grès Cabochard. But also as mentioned above, of a modern musky classic as Musc Nomade.

Rien is an interesting frag where a lot is going on during it's dry down and there is no risk of losing interest. Even the picky Mr Parfumista gives compliments when I wear Rien, which is strange as he often complians about strong aldehydic scents beeing too "old man/womanlike"on me. But Rien is dry, with almost no sweetness in it and Mr Parfumista is appreciating dry-wood perfumes for himself.  Rien is a must try for retro perfumelovers. I can't say it's officefriendly, not in it's initial stage anyway. This "offending" stage on the other hand dries down during the journy to work and when entering the office, the more pleasant middlenotes have appeared.

Rating: 5

Notes: Aldehydes, cummin, leather, iris, amber, patchouli, moss, incense, rose, pepper, styrax

måndag 2 december 2013

Jardins d'Écrivains - Orlando

Picture: Orlando
Photo: PR Jardins d'Écrivains (c)
Orlando is the latest fragrance in the affordable niche line Jardins d'Érivains where the fragrances are inspired of the world of literature. Orlando is of course inspired from the novel of Virginia Woolf and when testing Orlando the great movie with Tilda Swinton relives.

Orlando starts balsmaic, cool, fizzy-spicy and the balsamic/spicy impression lasts during the whole dry down. Notes appears that reminds me of expensive retro bubblebath + dirt (like in a stable) + the almost plasticlike (vinyl) note that sometimes emerges from shiny new leather is an intriguing accord that conveys an impression of the immortal Orlando, present in so many centuries. This accord is  counterbalanced by the mysterious dark, spicy, balsamic and musky basenotes which creates a sort of timeless impression. Orlando has a dry, powdery-putty-balsamic texture and is comfortable in the same time as it's evocative and fires the imagination as there are new nuances to find at every turn. Orlando is very much it's own fragrance but I find some similarities with another a bit "strange" perfume, Psychotrope from Parfumerie Générale. Psychotrope is flowery where Orlando is spicy but the clean. cold. almost leatherlike note as also the bubblebathy are present in both. The initial spicy, sparkling impression of ginger, also have something in common with Aus Liebe zum Duft No 1 but the gingernote is not as sharp in Orlando as in the latter. As Orlando has developed for some hours in the basenotes, it suddenly becomes stronger in apperance and in this stage, Orlando reminds me of the classic Robert Piguet Bandit.

Orlando, just as its role model is a genuine unisex fragrance despite Mr Parfumista thinks it's leaning more to the masculine side and and I think it's slight more feminine. Orlando is appropriate both for work and casual, it has good stayingpower, about a day at least, and the sillage is medium. Orlando is IMO the most interesting and original fragrance from Jardins d'Écrivains so far.

Rating: 5

Notes: Orange, pink pepper, ginger; amber, patchouli , cloves, guaiac wood, peru balsam, musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test.

söndag 1 april 2012

Perfumed thoughts April 2012

Earlier this week I thought that this weekend would be the right time to publish my list of Spring-Spring perfumes in my serie Spring fragrances, see the earlier post Winter-Spring fragrances. But then Jack Frost returned for the weekend and I lost all the inspiration. But as always there is some perfumed thoughts:

* As the Robert Piguet fragrances is an old love to me I'm really looking forward to the release of the  five fragrances in the Nouvelle Collection created by the Piguet "house-nose"Aurélien Guichard at Givaudan: Bois Noir, Casbah, Mademoiselle Piguet, NoteS and Oud. Earlier, expect from Douglas Hannant by Robert Piguet, the house in collaboration with perfumer Aurélien Guichard  has new-interpreted their old classics Visa, Baghari, Calypso and Futur. Bandit, Fracas and Cravache I think are "regulary" reformulations of the original Germaine Cellier creations. The Nouvelle Collection will be tested and reviewed later if I can get my hands of some samples.

* Another release I have read about but are not sure it will be this year is some new fragrances from Vero Kern, Vero Profumo. As I love Rubj, Onda (swedish) and Kiki I know Vero will deliver.

* I'm also not sure about if or when the perfume/perfumes Mona di Orio was working on when she passed away in December 2011 will be released. As a great admier of Mona, although it is so deeply tragic, I'm waiting of the privilege to take part of her final creation(s).

* There is so many interesting fragrances around and it's hard to select what is worth to sample. As Denyse at Grain the Musc wrote in her post (controversial as she argues about the consequenses of the sharp increase of perfumebloggersEnchanted, disenchanted she can't waste time trying out scents that don't challange her. Therefore her strategy is almost only to test and review creations from houses/noses that she know almost always delivers from her point of view. I will try to practice this rule in the future, and I already do that (without thinking of it)  to some extent, but it's not a a planned strategy of mine. As I have many already written reviews "in stock" the mix of favouritehouse/noses and other will remain within the foreseeable future.

That's my perfumed thoughts by now :-)

torsdag 14 april 2011

Passande klassiker 3 (4)

Foto: Parfumista (c)

Ursprungligen publicerat på min tidigare blogg "Parfumistans blogg" på Damerns Världs hemsida i januari 2008.

Vid sidan om besvikelserna i förra inlägget, finns en del klassiker som passar hyfsat alternativt glänser till under vissa förhållanden men kan bli en mindre katastrof under andra omständighter. Den här listan är svår att ta fram, den kräver ett ärligt rannsakande och bort med alla önsketänkanden.

1000 (Patou) Fin aldehydisk blomparfym med den exklusiva osmanthusblomman i centrum. Blir aldrig mer än normalbra på mig trots en lovande öppning på doften.
Boucheron (Boucheron) I sig en fin doft som luktar gott på flaskan men blir tråkig på mig. Finns ett litet spår av Oscar i doften, något som irriterar mig.
Panthere (Cartier) Även om den har en trevlig plåsterton i sig så finns även här lätta spår av Oscar som irriterar. Doften är också för damig för mig.
Nuit de Noel (Caron) På mig blir den bara en typisk tjugotalsdoft men utan något extra. Känner inte mycket av julkryddorna. Kan bero på att jag testat Edt-version. Parfymkoncentrationen är säkert något helt annat.
Jean Louis Scherrer (Scherrer) Denna eleganta, gröna chypre kan spela bäraren (och har spelat mig) otäcka spratt. Varning för överdosering!
Bandit (Piguet) Vill så klart att denna tuffa läderchypre ska smälta in som ett andra skinn. Men det gör den inte utan den lägger sig liksom lite utanpå. Mycket känslig för störningar i kroppskemin, typ infektioner. Men så är den också en oberäknelig chypre.
Aromatic Elixir (Clinique) Denna örtigt kamomilliga chypre tycker jag bra om. Men den tar ett steg längre på många andra som bär den.

Vilka är dina oberäkenliga klassiker?

Kommentar 2011: Numera är det bara Bandit och 1000 som får en chans ibland. Övriga prover är slut och inte ersatta eller i det fall det fanns en flaska så har jag den inte kvar heller. Vill ha säkrare kort en så här.

fredag 22 juni 2007

Midsommardofter mot strömmen


Bild: wikimedia.com
Ibland vill vi alla trotsa konventionerna. Varför inte satsa på något mörkt och dunkelt i kontrast till årets ljusaste dygn? Särskilt som vädret varken är varmt eller särskilt soligt.  Idag passar:
Messe de Minuit - Etros kryddigt träiga lite söta oriental från millenieskifet. Rökelse, honung, myrra, kryddor, trä i en säregen komposition. Associerar till katolsk mässa och till doften av  kalksten i medeltida kyrkor.
Poison - Christian Diors storsäljare skapad av Jean Guichard 1985. En "love or hate doft". Tung, blommigt, orientalisk med lite plommon. Doften ger associationer till giftmord, Katarina av Medici, Reine Margot och Bartolomeinatten.
Parfum Sacre -  Carons kryddiga, dovt blommiga oriental från 1992 skulle kunna vara inspirationskälla till Etros Messe de Minuit. Även denna speciella komposition mer myrra, rökelse och tunga rosor ger känslan av katolsk mässa.
Habanita - Molinards klassiskt mörka ambrerade blom- och läderdoft från 1921. I den fint harmonierade blandningen finns också spår av torkad frukt (långt ifrån dagens fruktigt-fräscha ackord) mysk och en viss rökighet.
Bandit - Läderchypre med animaliska noter för den som vill vara lite stygg under midsommar. Det finns även en ton av torkatgräs/hö som passar utmärkt en midsommarnatt. Ursprungligen skapad för Piguet 1944 av den stora kvinnliga näsan Germaine Cellier.

onsdag 13 juni 2007

Doft-dekadens

Bvlgari Black är egentligen en lättare variant på de klassiska läder, lite rå-söta, rökiga mästerverken från tjugotalet Tabac Blond och Habanita samt efterföljaren från fyrtiotalet Bandit.
Den omedelbara associationen av dessa dofter är mellankrigstidens Berlin, Der Blaue Engel, Marlene Dietrich. Hennes dekadenta karaktär Lola ÄR dessa dofter: "Ich bin von Kopf bis Fuß auf Liebe eingestellt, denn das ist meine Welt und sonst gar nichts. Das ist, was soll ich machen, meine Natur. Ich kann halt lieben nur und sonst gar nichts ..."

lördag 27 januari 2007

Försöker bli vän med Bandit

Gör ett nytt försök att få Piguets kultdoft Bandit att passa. Läderchypren Bandit är skapad av Germaine Cellier 1944. GC är en av de tidiga, kvinnliga, stora näsorna. GC har skapat flera stora dofter, bla den underbara Fracas, också för Piguet, Vent Vert  och Jolie Madame för Balmain. Liksom inom de flesta andra genrer så dominerar även männen näsornas värld, även om kvinnoinslaget ökat också här på senare år.
Även om jag tycker att Bandit passar något bättre idag än när jag bar den tidigare, så smälter den inte in på rätt sätt. Den luktar som ögonskugga på mig, någon slags pudrig doft. Under pudret skymtar lädret men de ingår aldrig i en fulländad harmoni. Men på rätt person är jag säker på att den är superb!
För ytterligare info om Bandit läs mitt inlägg från den 12/11 2006 under rubriken Dagens doft.