Carner Barcelona - Latin Lover (Floral Collection)

Picture: Latin Lover
Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c)

For summer 2017 catalonian nichehouse Carner Barcelona introduces the Floral Collection which is in the opposite style compared to the excellent Black Collection of last year. The Floral Collection presented in stylish white bottles vs the Black Collection in stylish black ones. First out for test from the florals is the wristsniffer Latin Lover created by perfumer Jordy Fernandez.

Latin Lover strats with a burst of beautiful a tad watery flowers, dominated by magnolia sweetened by ylang-ylang. Magnolia usually is a bit tricky note for me as it could be almost harsh and sour to my nose. But balancing with ylang-ylang obviously is the trick, the magnolia blooms beautiful. Later on a clean, flowery jasmine and a detactable also flowery (not powdery lipsticknote), violet steps forward and add a certain elegance to the perfume. The bouquet is grounded in a just enough musky base with some contrasting, almost dark, a bit moisty, earthy elemets, probably the patchouli. The dark of Latin Lover is like sitting in the shadow of a pinetree near the sea a hot summerday. There is something familiar with Latin Lover and after a days wearing I know: It smells similar to Lalique Edp by Lalique but less sweet and fruity. Other fragrances I come to think of (even if not smelling the same but the same feeling/style) when wearing Latin Lover are Puredistance WHITE, By Kilian Water Calligraphy and Amouage Honour Woman.

Latin Lover is a happy fragrance which is a pleasure to wear, perfect for a mediterranean summerevening or just to cheer up a summerday which is spent in the office. The longevity is for at least a day and sillage is medium. Classified as unisex but to my nose lending to the feminine side. After my acquaintance with Latin Lover I have high hopes for the other two in the Floral Collection, Besos and Sweet William. Reviews will follow.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, ylang-ylang, violet, jasmine sambac, narcissus, benzoin, patchouli, musk

Neela Vermeire Creations - Rahele

Picture: India map
Photo: (c) FOTOLIA, MOONRISE /PR Neela Vermeire Creations

The inspiration to the latest Neela Vermeire Creations fragrance is according to the house as follows:            "Rahele (traveller) is an ode to exotic travel, an olfactory journey in the company of 17th Century French visitors to the East. Tavernier...Bernier...Thévenot...the names still resonate in the imagination of armchair travellers today, as each man left a detailed record of his adventures, showing us Mughal-ruled India through a European lens." Rahele is created by Bertrand Duchaufour as rest of the fragrances from Neela Vermeire.

The first accord reminds me of an up scale version of Lalique Flora Bella which is also creation of Bertrand Duchaufour .Then when notes of cedar and cardamom appears, I come to think of a less sweet and much more floral variation of Lubin Inedite. As Rahele dries further down it becomes more bright, floral, rose-violet is prominent at first than round, fruity flowery notes of osmanthus appears. The osmanthus note is luminous even if thick and velvet smooth in texture. Here the impression of Inedite diverges where Inedite takes a woody-spicy-gourmand and darker path. Rahele takes a different direction, it's sunny and warm, lush and juicy and in the same time calming and refreshing, in its floral-fruity glory. Raheles floral-fruity accord smells natural, there are no cloying, syntetic candysmelling sweet fruity notes. Probably most of the frutiy sweetness comes from the osmanthus which in this creation is not dilluted as in most other fragrances featuring osmanthus. As Rahele dries down, the similarities to Inedite reappears in the basenotes when the elements of cedar and cardamom steps forward again. There is also a fresh mossy element which anchors the fragrance.  

Picture: Osmanthusflower
Photo: (c) FOTOLIA, CHUNGKING/PR Neela Vermeire Creations

Rahele is not oriental as the previous Neela Vermeire fragrances, it's a beautful floral fragance with some elements of a contemporary interpretation of chypre. Rahele is a terrific fragrance for the coming late winter and early spring when looking forward for the coming brighter days. It's a joyful cretation equally perfect for a day at work or for the weekend. To me it's more but also brave men can wear this. The longevity is good, more then 12h, silage is medium. 

Picture: Rahele
Photo: (c) M. TASSY/PR Neela Vermeire Creations

Rahele is a great choice for those who like joyful, lush, luminous boquets in the style (not the same smell) of Téo Cabanel Lace Garden, Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia and Le Galion Iris and La Rose.

Rating: 5

Notes: Mandarine, cardamom, cinnamon, violet leaf, oamanthus, rose, magnolia, jasmine, iris, violet, cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli

Ormonde Jayne - Ta'if

Picture: In the Bey's Garden (1865)
Painting by John Frederick Lewais (1805-76)
Wikimedia commons

An Ormonde Jayne Classic, the beautiful oriental rosefragrance Ta'if was created by perfumer Geza Schoen in 2004.

Starts with a burst which smells like green pepper, not pink, mingling with something reminding of a tangy citric note. Soon an slight juicy, pink, rosy note appers, and then the whole accord becomes light creemy after a short while and Ta'if reminds me of a bit sharper, less juicier Le Galion La Rose. As Ta'if developes, the rose interacts with the other flowers, the bright and chilly freesia is prominent to me. Ta'if is more of a boquet than a solar rose fragrance and surprisingly bright and high up on the fragrance note scale to be an oriental fragance. The saffron is playing a supporting role in the background, not at all as prominent as in the standard dark, often oudy, oriental rose fragrance. At one stage in the middlenotes a hint similar to cedar appears which together with a fizzy, peppery note, reminds me of a light and smooth interpretation of Perles de Lalique and also of a more refined, cremy and smooth version of Marni. The datenote provide a moderating dark, fruity component, anchoring the kind of shrill flowers together with the pleasant amber-musky base.

Summed up Ta'if is a pleasant rose in the cold rose category. It's slight watery, but not at all thin, on the contrary it's heavy but in the same time transparant as the air of high humidity up in the mountains. As less sharp and more juicy/creamy than most cold roses, there is hints of warm trails Ta'if in some parts of the dry down. Since Ta'if creation many roses in the same style have emerged, I also comes to think of Burberry Body and Unum Rosa Nigra, and even if Ta'if is not as unique anymore, it has stood the test of time very well and is still a wellcrafted, intriguing fragrance. The longevity is great, traces are left after 24h, and sillage is good. Proper for daytime wearing escpecially for office or formal occasions. Works for year around, exept the coldest months.

Rating: 5

Notes: Pink pepper, saffron, dates, freesia, rose, orange flower, jasmine, broom, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art för the sample to test

Eau d'Italie - Un Bateau pour Capri

Picture: Overlooking Capri harbor from
the rotunda in Villa San Michele
Photo: Morn the Gorn (cc) Wikipedia Commons.,
some rights reserved

Un Bateau pour Capri is an Eau d'Italie fragrance inspired from the neighbourhood of Positano, the beautiful Island Capri. The fragrance is composed by Jacques Cavallier. When it comes to Capri I remember, many years ago, I almost missed the boat from Capri, strolling around in Villa San Michele, built around the turn of the century 1900, for the highsociety physican and philantrophe Axel Munthe, (sometimes called "the swedish Rasputin" as the gossip said he almost spellbound the swedish Queen consort Victoria at the time. Anyway, they were friends and had some Capri-projects about taking care of animals together.) When I was aware of that the bus had left for the harbour, I had the great luck to find a cab up there on the mountin and after a fast ride I caught the ferry and could re-join to our group just in the last minute. Now, over to the Capri inspired fragrance: Un Bateau pour Capri.

Un Bateau pour Capri starts with an aldehydic, fruity, fizz with an almost hairspray like tonality. There is also a cold, watery flowercomponent supporting, probably the peony brightened up with the freesia. Soon also a tart note appears, creating a contrasting, sort of deep freshness of the fragrance. The tart accord is following through the whole fragrance and deepens when it mingles with the woody-musky base. This tart fruity/woody aldehydic note is prounonced and what makes UBpC characteristic. The note is almost off-putting but in the same time somehow pleasant and this is what makes UBpC interesting. In the drydown, UBpC is much more floral, a dark, dense, rose-jasmine accord and despite a distinct cedarnote, the fragrance is very feminine in its expression. The rose-cedar accord remins me of my favorite Eau d'Italie fragrance so far, Pasteum Rose, which is morse unisex in style than UBpC. The aldehydic fizz is present even in the base but in dark and slight soapy way. When wearing Un Bateau pour Capri, besides Pasteum Rose, two fragrances especially  comes to my mind: Esprit d'Oscar by Oscar de la Renta for the aldehydes in the first stages of the perfume and Perles de Lalique for the cedar-rose combo, even if the cedarnote is much more prominent in the latter.

Picture: Map of Capri. Uses terrain data from SRTM3
Author: modified by Morn the Gorn (cc)
 Wikipedia Commons, some rights reserved

Despite the aldehydes and the darkness of Un Bateau pour Capri, the fragrance is refreshing worn a warm summerday, maybe in the restful shadows from the threes in the garden of Villa San Michele. If Un Bateau pour Capri had a color it would be dark blue shifting in purple as the Mediterrean sky at
dusk. Un Bateau pour Capri is casual chic in style, appropriate for a holiday on Capri and the Amalficoast. Sillage and longevity are both outstanding for this fragrance, it lasts for more than 24 hours. UBpC is also approved by Mr Parfumista who complemented it in different phases of the dry down, such statement is quite rare taking in account the many fragrances I test.

Rating: 5

Notes: Peony, freesia, peach, rose, jasmine, heliotrophe, musc, wood, cedar

Maria Candida Gentile - Lady Day

Picture: Billie Holiday (1915-1959),
Photo: PR  (Getty) (c)

Lady Day starts intriguing with a cold, dry, cold flower (gardenia) complemented with almost tarry, leathery notes. As Lady Day dries down the gardenia comes forward, the composition becomes warmer and almost balsamic. From the middle to the base Lady Day reminds me of a gentler and less sweet version of the early 2000nd Bertrand Duchaufour creation for Lalique Flora Bella. As I like Flora Bella, Lady Day is also a very nice acquaintance. Just as Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire, Lady Day is a tribute to Billie Holiday and I think both fragrances are appropriate as such; Lady Day mirrors the positive sides of Billies life symbolized by the characteristic gardenia worn by her, Une Voix Noire the darker sides with the decaying interpretation of the flower.

I can image Lady Day as a perfect companion warm and humid summerevenings in the tropics but also for the dark nights of August up here in the North. Medium longevity, lasts for a workingday, and close sillage as this is an extrait.

Rating: 4

Notes: Galbanum, gardenia, peru balsam

Thanks to Fragance & Art for the sample to test 

The fragrance of New Years Eve

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

As the winter here in the north is the warmest in decades and New Years Eve is more like a mid-autumn or mid-spring day in temprature the choice was also unusual for this day. Instead of a dark and heavy scent I chose a light and transparent fragrance, a sample that I unfortunately have forgotten for over six month but was reminded of when reading all the Best of 2013 lists: Marni (by Marni).

Marni definitly should be included in my Best of 2013 list (or maybe the 2012 if the releasedate on Fragrantica is correct), even if I discovered the last day. It's transparent but in the same time it has strength and lasts, it is both cold and warm in character, refreshing but also comforting and calming. A great mainstream fragrance, created by one of my favorite noses, Daniela Andrier which also created the first female classic of this century: Prada Infusion d'Iris.

The warmer spicy-incense part of Marni reminds me of the from the perfumecommunity surprisingly dissesd 2013 release Vaara from Penhaligons, a fragrance which I like very much. The colder aspects reminds me of one of the early "Noveau Chypres" Perles de Lalique, a more intense, deep and in the same time icy cold, rose-woody combo with characteristic pencilshavingnotes. The rose/incense/spices also reminds me of what Caron Parfum Sacre could be if it would appear in an Eau Fraiche variation. Very oddly a light and smoother trace of the "päronsplit"-note (swedish icecream, vanilla icecream covered with pear-ice, popular among children, more about htis see earlier post on Riktig Parfym) in Angelique Noir glimpses by. or maybe it's not that strange, A N is also created by Daniela Andrier.

A very wearable fragrance, easy to wear, comforting and a good officescent. Will be perfect for the coming spring and also for the winter if these tempratures stays.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, spices, rose, cardamon, cinnamon, vetiver, cedarwood, incense, patchouli

Boucheron - Jaïpur Bracelet

Picture: Jaïpur Bracelet
Photo: PR Boucheron (c)

The jewellery house Boucheron has been in the fragrancemarket since 1989 when the iconic floral-oriental Boucheron pour Femme was released. Even if this first release still is the jewel of the crown, the 2012
Jaïpur Bracelet, flanker of another classic from the house Jaïpur, is a very pleasant finding. Jaïpur Bracelet is created by Carlos Benaim. An earlier and now discontinued flanker to Jaïpur is Jaïpur Saphire

Jaïpur Bracelet starts with a green, slight herbal, flowery accord accentuated with orange-citirc notes which when interacting creates an almost berry tune to the fragrance which in turn softens the sharpness and warms up the coldness of the crispy flowers; Lily of the valley, hyacint, iris and carnation. If this fragrance had a color it would be medium, velvety pink, a bit darker than the color of the Jaïpur Bracelet box and bottle. From top to base Jaïpur Bracelet reminds me of a less sweeter version of the first Lalique fragrance with the same name. The Lalique contains berry and fruity notes but also vanilla and some white flowers and as a 1990 release it is bolder and with a bigger silage even if Jaïpur Bracelet has a not contemptible silage to be created as late as 2012. Instead of vanilla, sandalwood and musk as in Lalique, Jaïpur Bracelet ends up in the wellbalanced woody-musky base of cashmerean. Another fragence that reminds me of Jaïpur Bracelet is the big, bold and sparkling Dior Pure Poison (one of the three cretors of this is Carlos Benaim) but compared to Pure Poison, Jaïpur Bracelet is almost low-key.

Jaïpur Bracelet is the ultimate comfort scent, a real wristsniffer, an uncomplicated but well composed fragrance that brightens up the most gloomy day. As Jaïpur Braclet is not too sweet and with an excellent longevity, 24h+, it's perfect to wear in warm and sunny summerdays.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Basil, violet leaves, lemon verbena, bitter orange, petitgrain, hyacinth, lily-of-the-valley, carnation, iris, cypress, cashmeran

Oliver & Co - La Colonia

Picture: La Colonia by Oliver & Co
Photo: PR Oliver & Co

La Colonia from spanish nichehouse Oliver & Co founded by Oliver Valverde who also creates the parfumes, is not a cologne IMO even if it intermediates some elements of cologne freshness. Instead La Colonia performs as an Edt with good sillage and longevity, features that is rare when it comes to light fragrances these days.La Colonia is a part of the illustrated series where an illustration of Pablo Perez Sanmartin capturing the essence of each fragrance is included.

La Colonia starts with a acquatic-citirc accord and the opening is was I like the least with this fragrance, the initial stage feels too undescript "usual-light-perfum-y".Fortunately, this stage doesen't  last long at all, after a few minutes some fersh green, herbal slight spicy notes apperas with dill as the prodominant player to me. The dill in this creation is well blanced, dill I suspect can be too sharp and overwhelming but in La Colonia it's a good contrast to the flowers and soft woody notes. Another composition where dill is used in a pleasant way is Eau de Lalique. In the dry down of La Colonia there is also a fizzy green note playing in harmony with the crisp Lily of the Valley. I suspect this note is green pepper.

La Colonia is a fragrance with interesting twists but in the same time easy to wear, fresh without any detergentnotes and very officefriendly. Perfect for summer or anytime of the year when longing for warm summerdays.

Those who are fond of fragrances in the chilly, fresh, dark green style of Patricia de Nicolaï Week End à Deauville and Andy Tauer Carillon pour une Ange will probably appreciate La Colonia.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, ozone, dill, jasmine, green pepper, lily of the valley, sandal- and cedarwood

La Colonia and the other intriguing Oliver & Co fragrances is possible to order (free shipping around the world) from the Oliver & Co website. 

The Vagabond Prince - Enchanted Forest

Picture:The beautiful artwork bottle of Enchanted  Forest
Photo: PR The Vagabond Prince (c), all rights reserved 

Enchanted Forest is a 2012 Bertrand Duchaufour creation for the new perfumehouse The Vagabond Prince  founded by the very creative founders of Fragrantica , Elena and Zoran Knezhevich.

Enchanted Forest is an unsual fragrance, centered around the black currant accord. Even if black currant and its buds, are frequently used in different fruity and fruity green accords, that the blackcurrant rarely is the mainplayer. Another fragrance where this is the case is Lalique Amethyst which I havn't smelled. The initial accords of Enchanted Forest is like diving in a blackcurrant bush, the notes of the juicy    berries and the green tart leaves are very natural, luminous and vibrant. Probably the aldehydes helps to lift the black currant, with its intensity it could otherwise easily be cloying. When Enchanted Forest dries down in the middlenotes, the blackcurrant calms down but is still easily recognizable as the mainnote. Green light woody and fizzy notes as vetiver, pepper and especially coriander sparkels offsetted by some smooth flowery notes that just balances the blend and plays in the background. The base are slight musky dark but not heavy with distinct tart woody (fir,cedar) and resinnotes. There is also a transparant, fresh earthy, patchoulinote combined with a slight animalic vibe. The sweet notes are very subdued and not recognizable as separate notes, but they create a softness that balances the dark and  earthy woodiness.

Enhanced Forest is a fragrance that I think could be worn year around despite it evokes the image of a wild forest in early autumn to me, a cold, mossy dampness contrasted with the sunrays defying the high confiers and hitting the ground. Enhanced Forest as an idea and in its structure with green, aldehydic tartness, somehow reminds me of the earlier in 2012, Duchaufour creation for Aedes de Venustas with the same name, even if that one highlights the rhubarb.

Enhanched Forest is a strong fragrance that should be applied in moderation, if not, it could be overwhelming. The sillage is big to be a contemporary fragrance and longevity on skin is about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Pink pepper, aldehydes, sweet orange, flower cassis, blackcurrant leaf, hawthorn, rum, wine, rosemary, davana, blackcurrant buds absolute, blackcurrant, russian coriander seed, honeysuckle, rose, carnation, vetiver, opoponax, benzoin, amber, oakmoss, fir balsam absolute, patchouli, castoreum absolute, cedar, vanilla, musk.

Thanks to the Vagabond Prince for the sample to test.

Puredistance - I

Picture: Puredistance I, elegant, white soft flowers.
Puredistance (c), all rights reserved.

The first feminine fragrance, properly named I, from Puredistance, is like a summery of the spirit of the fragrances of the house. Puredistance, with long time experienced perfumer Annie Buzantian as housenose (for the femine offerings anymay), is creating timeless elegant, chic and versatile fragrances which in the same time also feels contemprary. I is said to has first beeing created by the perfumer as a personal fragrance for herself and that it remains as one of her own favourites.

I opends up with watery, almost ozonic, mostly white blossom notes. Mr Parfumista says he is getting the olfactory image of a softer, smoother and much more elegant L’Eau d’Issey by Issey Miyake. Probably this is airy, and elegant fresh as the sea aura that surrounds the tamed and polite white blossoms that creates this impression.

As the development of I continues the blend gets light, fluffy, creamy and smells almost as a really exclusive sunscreen. The creamy white and also yellow flowers are fleeting soft and seemless within each other in the Annie Buzantian typical smooth and delicate way in handling flowers. In this stage Puredistance I reminds me of an elegant and smooth variation of Flora Bella from Lalique. Flora Bella also has this warm, almost tropical flowery quality with the clear air from the sea as a refreshing element. But I is rounder, gentler and much more elegant than the flamboyant Flora Bella. In the basenotes I gets less creamy even if some remians and the flowers appears somehow more distinctive, supported by a well balanced white musk combined with the fresh eartyness of vetiver and a hint of ambery depth. Overall there is something in the aura, texture and radiance of I that reminds me of a flowery counterpart to the beautiful airy, sealike, woody Bois Naufragé by Parfumerie Générale. I feels like the image of a beach on a tropical island with almost snowwhite sand on a sunny day with a totally clear, blue sky. Or the image of an elegant lady dressed in white.

I is a very feminine fragrance that adds pleasure and luxury to everyday. In the same time it is easy to wear and adds comfort and security to the wearer without beeing aggressive as a one of the “powerperfumes”. I have to admit hat it has taken some time for me to “get” I, 1,5 years to be exact (review in swedish from spring 2011 here). Not pleasing directly is often a sign of a complicated quality fragrance with many facets and the following indivdual interpretations of the scent. Even if, or probably because, I is not grundbreaking in style it’s a contemporary classic (despite the slight aquatic vibes that could be associated with the 1990s) that could easily qualify as a signature fragrance for a wearer that perfers a limited numbers of perfumes in her wardrobe. I is suitable for office, receptions but also an example of the perfect bridal perfume. A very versatile fragrance!

As all Puredistance fragrances, I is a perfume extrait and as such offer a discrete but definitly detectable sillage. A discreete trail is, under the right conditions, appearing after the wearer of I has left the room and when smelling this, one wonders from where this beautiful scent comes. The longevity is very good, about 24 h.

Rating: 5

Notes: Tangerine blossom, cassis, neroli bigarade, watery nuances,  

magnolia, rose, jasmine, parmenthia, mimosa, amber, vetiver, white musk.

Lanvin – Arpége

Picture: Gedenktafel 10707 Berlin-Wilmersdorf, Zähringerstraße 13,

 Wohnung der Tänzerin Anita Berber

Photo: Wikinaut (cc) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

Sometimes when testing all these well behaved and well adjusted contemorary niche and designerhouse fragrances I as a contrast just want to smell something wild, old fashioned and provocative to the average perfumeconsumer of today (from my preconception). Than the classical aldehydic bomb Arpége from Lanvin is a fragrance that will fit the bill. Before spritzing I have to prepare Mr Parfumista (it’s usually during weekends I wear severe classics like this) that today I will wearing an “old ladies scent”, I hate this expression but it well illustrates a certain category of mostly classic fragrances from which I like many, that he wil not like the smell etc. If not warned he sometimes I have found that he becomes a bit irritated as he don’t like the smell from Arpége and it’s companions on me anyway, because the comment is always “It not suit you and maybe there is something with the chemistry because it’s ok on the scentstrip”. Maybe the old aldehydes and chypres dosen’t suit me the best but anyway I sometimes long for them and want to smell them as they are interesting and difficult creatures to discover.

Arpége (the latest Edp-formulation in the black bottle) starts with a strong aldehydic blast that almost knocks my nose out. The aldehydes are somehow robust, rough and demanding in Arpége, in Chanel No 5 Edt they are more gracile and even more and also champangeny bubbly in Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere and Esprit d’Oscar by Oscar de la Renta. In the middle the aldehydes withdraws but are defintly still there supporting the dark decadent flowers with an uplifting sparkle. Something almost dark and dense leathery also apperars in the backround in this stage and it’s discreetly present even thereafter.

In the basenotes a dark and wet vetivernote that mediates a dark green almost mossy impression dominating. The vetiver reminds me of the dense and dark accord Encre Noire by Lalique and Route de Vetiver by Maître Parfumerur et Gantier, both gendered as masculine fragrances. As I remember it, the vetiver is more prounanced in this Arpége formulation compared to the one before in the transparent bottle where the mossy, woody notes were much more apparent. But the same expression dark, mossy, woody texture and image of the fragrance is preserved. To me Arpége is feminine but it’s also unisex, the opening aldehydic accord leaning at the feminine side but when reaching the basenotes it’s whichever.

Arpége was created 1927 by the perfumer Andre Fraysse in collobaration with Jeanne Lanvins daughter Margurite as a gift from Jeanne to celebrating the thirtieth birthday of her daughter. But tom me Arpége don’t exactly mirrors the elegant enviorment of the mother and daughter Lanvin rather to me it mirrors the decadant setting of the 1920s legendary cabarets and nightclubs in Berlin. Arpége is THE fragrance for the 1920s wild artist Anita Berber , the predesessor to artists as Madonna and Lady Gaga.

Arpége is an interesting fragrance, a darker, warmer, woodier and rougher than Chanel No 5 It has stood the test of time and reformulations very good. Even if a bit oldfashioned it’s in the same time eternal and a great frag to wear when the urge to wear something different that stands out from the clean, floral, fruity, patchouli, peppery, woody, odors of  contemporary perfumes. Arpége is also resonable priced especially compared to new launches and it definitly provides value for money.

Rating: 4 (on me if positive a 3, but considerating the history and peculiarity of the fragrance, the character the ability to create images and the smell on the sample strip, all together a 4)

Notes:  Bergamot, aldehydes, peach, orangeflower, honeysuckle, orris, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, coriander, sensitive plant, tuberose, violet, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla,musk

Lalique - Eau de Lalique

Picture: Anethum graveolens,

Prof. Dr. Otto Wilhelm Thomé Flora von Deutschland, Österreich und der Schweiz 1885, Gera, Germany, Wikimedia Commons (GFDL by Kurt Stueber)

Scroll down for a summary in english.
Den anrika franska glasdesignerfirman Lalique har som många känner till även en parfymlinje. Detta är helt logiskt då Lalique skapat vackra parfymfalkonger sedan det tidiga nittonhundratalet. Eau de Lalique är en skapelse av Jean-Claude Ellena, strax innan han blev husnäsa hos Hermès, och Emelie Coppermann.

Eau de Lalique är en i mitt tycke typisk transparant men ändå inte flyktig Ellena-komposition. Jag känner igen drag från hans klassiska och banbrytande gröna the-komposition för Bulgari, Eau Parfumee au the vert men Eau de Lalique har en lite annan inriktning, den är en mer lätt men kallt kryddig cologne. Eau de Lalique inleds med noter av bland annat dill. Dillnoten känns tydligt en mycket kort stund i inledningen men sedan blandar den upp sig med bland annat citrusfrukter, kardemumma, lätta blomnoter, kådor och trä. Eau de Lalique är en slags orientalisk cologne och mig ger den ungefär samma känsla som Diors av Indien inspirerade Escale à Pondichery, även om den senare domineras av jasmin och svarta thenoter. På mig framträder framförallt Eau de Laliques kardemumma under hela doftens nedtorkning men trä, blomma  och citrusfrukter tonar ned kardemumman till en lagom nivå. Framåt kvällen återstår en träigt, kallt kryddig, vit myskig bas med en klar orientalisk touch, hela doften känns i det avslutande skedet mycket mörkare, som om det inte varit en lättare doft under dagen. Eau de Lalique är lite av en kameleont.

Eau de Lalique är i mitt tycke en fräsch doft utan att vara aqua-kemisk i stilen. Den är perfekt sommartid och håller väldigt bra om man inte under-applicerar. Men det är också en doft som passar bra om man vill ha något fräscht för att bryta av från de tyngre dofter som jag ofta använder under höst/vinter, och fast jag inte "borde", under stor del av våren. Doften är klassad som unisex vilket jag håller med om även om den har en liten dragning åt det feminina hållet om man ska vara stockkonservativ i sin bedömning.

Sammanfattningsvis är Eau de Lalique en mycket användbar doft av bra kvalitet som är enkel och avslappnande att bära. Ingen direkt intellektuell utmaning med konstigheter eller krusiduller något som kan vara väldigt befriande ibland.

Summary: Eau de Lalique is a versatile scent, easy and relaxing to wear. An unusual opening accompanied with a dillnote, followed by a wellbalanced thenote combined with some citrus, light flowers and a cardamonnote over a wood-musky base. Unisex, leaning slightly to the feminine side. Perfect for summer with it's good longevity even when hot or humid weatherconditions. With Ellena as co-perfumer it's not surprising that Eau de Lalique has some similarities with Eau Parfumee au the vert. The flowery notes blended with cardamon also gives me associations to Dior Escale à Pondichery  I precieve the same feeling. Eau de Lalique is not directly an intellectual challenge with oddities or frills but that's is very relieving at times.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarine, bergamot, pimento, citron, dill, cardamom, cinnamon, hibiscus, freesia, gaiac- and sandalwood, benzoin, musk.

Maria Candida Gentile – Sideris

Picture: Piazza del Campo, Siena,

Photo by Ricardo André Frantz (Tetraktys), (cc),

Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Sideris by Maria Candida Gentile transports me to a small, Italian town, uncertain what century. Sideris to me is an ongoing exhange between the heat outside on the town square and the coolness in the medival church at the center by the square. But in the cool church there is also an almost sweet warmth, from the myrrh and incense burned as from the wax candles lighted during the mass. There is also some obscure, almost decaying notes lurking in the background, maybe deriving from what’s hiding below the stone floor of the church.

Sideris is all about a warm and fullbodied almost sweet incense. It starts spicy and with sweetness from the myrrh. In this stage, strangely enough I get an impression that is partly similar to Jean Claude Ellenas tropical-night blend Flora Bella from Lalique, probably due to the sweet myrrh and the dark, velvety feeling. As the dry down proceeds, the incense gets more pronounced. The incense and the whole fragrance stays warm, thick and dense during its whole dry down.The color of Sideris to me is dark, velvety blue, as the sky with twinkling stars during a mediterrian night.

Sideris is to me eternal and represent a scent in style that I can image have been used during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Sideris also reminds me of the impressions of another eternal scent, Etros Messe de Minuit even if that one is much more flowery, light and transparent in style, it also have some of this both pleasant and unpleasent churchy notes described above.

Sideris warms up a grey and rainy day and as with all MCG I think of Sideris as officefriendly.Unisex in style. Great longevity, at least 24 hours and a distinct but not intruding sillage.

Rating: 5

Notes: Labdanum, saffran, myrrh, pepper, incense, rose, sandalwood, benzoin, woody notes

Puredistance - Antonia update January 2012

Picture: Antonia Minor (as Juno Ludovisi),

Museo Nazionale Romano, Rome 

Photo: user;shakko

When I first reviewd and tested Antonia last spring, I found it to sharp and smelling of luxury detergent see reviews in english and swedish. Relieved I wrote it off in company with the entire Puredistancecollection, M as a re-bottled Hermès Bel Ami and 1 as a luxury  Flora Bella by Lalique.

But this, to swedish conditions, warm and green winter I have longed for glowing, deep and intense florals. Suddenly my sample of Antonia was demanding for attention and I retested it, applicated a slightly larger dose than before. Wow, now I get it. It's so beautiful with its green notes of galbanum and flowers among them the ylang-ylang that adds a sofisticated sweetness. I wonder if the juice somehow has mellowed and has been blended during the storage because by now the smell of luxury detergent is not as apparent as in spring 2011. Antonia is also smoother than I percived it earlier. Maybe it also has to do with my own theory that the luxury detergent smell, that is present in several highend-/nicheperfumes, is the replacement of the typical soapy smell in the aldehydeperfumes of the late seventies- and early eighties such as First. To me Antonia is a contemporary successor to the elegant fragrances as First and it's peers, bright, glowing, with a flowing and well crafted texture. But is it also a successor of Pierre Balmains Vent Vert with it's intense, crispy, bitter, green note of galbanum. I can image that the original Vent Vert smelled something like this.

It's a pleasure to spend a day with the elegant but in the same time relaxed Antonia. But the day my sample vial runs out, will on the other hand, be tough to my poor wallet.

Rating: Antonia has made a rapid career, increasing it's rating from 3+ in April 2011 to 5 in January 2012.

Notes: Ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, orris, geranium, ivy, vanilla, vetiver

Amouage - Honour Woman

Bild: Madama Butterfly, poster by Adolfo Hohenstein,

Wikimedia Commons

Lyxhuset Amouages senaste damdoft Honour Woman, den har som vanligt en manlig pedang Honour Man, är enligt Amouages storytellers en hyllning till Mme Butterfly utifrån hennes sons minne av henne. Honour Man ska för övrigt tolkas som sonens parfym. Honour Woman är skapad av två för mig okända parfymörer, Alexandra Carlin och Violaine Collas, kanske några näsor på g.

Honour Woman är en fint balanserad vit, mjuk, fruktig och krämig blombukett. Den ger känslan av mjukt, vitt silkessammet. Som vanligt när det gäller Amouages är ingredienserna av god kvalitet och jag får ingen kemisk eller skarp känsla som jag kan få av vissa andra vita blom dofter som tex Diors Pure Poison om den inte är helt rätt doserad. Honour Woman påminner i stilen mycket om åttio- och det tidiga nittiotalets stora blommor men inte lika kompakt och på något sätt mer transparant i uttrycket. Den doft som jag främst förknippar Honour Woman med är Laliques signaturdoft Lalique. Honour Woman är tämligen linjär, håller hela dagen, har en bra projektion utan att bli skrikig eller stötande för omgivningen som vissa stora vita blomdofter kan bli. Det är inte en doft som sticker ut eller är särskilt originell som exempelvis Amouages Gold (både dam och herrversionen), Ubar eller Epic Woman. Honour Woman är istället en riktigt behaglig komfortdoft som jag längtar efter att få använda om och om igen, en doft som inte kräver så mycket när jag bär den.

Bristande originalitet men av hög kvalitet kombinerat med min dragning till stora vita blommor, den höga trivselfaktorn och bärbarheten blir sammanvägt:

Betyg: 4 (2011)
Rating: 5 (2017)
Update in May 2017: Honour Woman is a beautiful, comforting, elegant, cool, crisp, versatile white floral which is a pleasure to wear.

Noter: Koriander, peppar, rabarber, nejlika, jasmin, tuberose, gardenia, liljekonvalj, vetiver, opoponax, ambra, rökelseträ, läder

Puredistance - 1 (briefly)

A summary of yesterday's post about Puredistance 1.
A well-balanced scent that reminds me of a tame version of Lalique Flora Bella. So I stick to Flora Bella.

Rating: 3

Puredistance - 1

Foto: Parfumista (c)

Det österrikiska/holländska lyxhusets doft 1 är precis som övriga från huset mycket omskriven och hyllad i bloggar och kommentarer. Antagligen har jag någon allvarlig olifactorisk defekt eller också är det en någon slags hype som haussar upp doften mer än vad den enligt mitt tycke är värd där man triggar varandra i berömmet. 1 inleds mjukt, sammetslikt, vitt blommigt. Herr Parufmistas kommentar: "Liljekonvalj, luktar inte tantigt, rätt trevlig". Några timmar senare tycker han att den är en ok, lite mysig doft. Och jag då:  En not jag kan känna förutom mjuka, vita blommor, är tydliga svarta vinbär, annars flyter noterna in i varandra på ett sömlöst och välbalanserat sätt. Och så fortsätter 1 tills dagens slut. När toppnoterna, som är det mest intressanta, har tonat ut, övergår 1 till slut i en diskret ganska myskig bas. Projektionen är nära då det är frågan om ungefär motsvarande parfymstyrka och 1 kan absolut inte störa någon i omgivningen utan finns där som en andra hud.

Redan från starten är det något som jag så väl känner igen fast i en mjukare, mer diskret, elegantare och mesigare form. Efter ett par timmar kommer jag till insikt: 1 har stora likheter med Bertrand Duchaufours Flora Bella för Lalique, fast FB är förstås kusinen från landet i sammanhanget. FB har större projektion, är mindre slipad men enligt mitt tycke mer intressant än 1.

Kanske är jag extra hård mot 1 då jag inte tycker att den lever upp till de förväntningar som alla hyllningar har skapat. Hög kvalitet men för mig ointressant. Flora Bella tilltalar mig mer.

Betyg: 3

Noter: Tangerin, neroli, svarta vinbär, ros, mimosa, magnolia, jasmin, ambra, vetiver, mysk

Lalique – Perles de Lalique

Foto: Parfumista (c)

Perles skapades för huset Lalique 2006 av parfymören Nathalie Lorson och den vann också tidningen Marie Clarie:s pris som bästa doft i Frankrike 2007.

Namnet Perles tycker inte jag är helt passande för denna höga, kalla och svala moderna chypre med sina ganska skarpa toppnoter. Pärlor förknippar jag med mjukt, runt och pudrigt. Ska jag göra en liknelse när det gäller ädla material tycker jag att den påminner mer om platinans grå och lite återhållsamma, kalla glans.

Perles inleds lite herrparfymaktigt med bland annat svartpeppar och känns nästan som en unisexdoft, ett intryck som faktiskt består för mig under hela doftens utveckling. I mellanregistret framträder på mig bäriga noter (även om inga bär finns med i pyramiden) balanserade med en lagom dos av något som liknar cederträ från basen. För enligt pyramiden finns inget cederträ utan istället irisrot, vetiver, patchoulli och mossa i basen. I Perles är det som påminner om cederträ i en perfekt balans och blir inte för skarpt vilket cedertränoten annars har en tendens att bli på mig Troligen är det pepparen i kombination med irisroten och vetivern som framkallar cederträkänslan. Även patchoullin i basen är balanserad och sticker inte ut bland ingredienserna som så ofta när det gäller patchoullibaserade dofter. Istället minglar den in i de andra noterna. Jag tycker att Perles är en bra representant för den nya chypren, eller så som jag önskar att fler i kategorin skulle vara. Den är trots det bäriga inte särskilt söt vilket kan vara ett ”problem” i genren.

Perles är en perfekt på dagen/kontorsdoft, en sådan där som passar en ljust grå dräkt/kostym med krispigt vit skjorta till. Passar året om men den har en ton som jag tycker matchar dofterna under den tidiga våren väldigt bra. Idag är det vårdagjämning och Perles passar till nyss soluppvärmd kall och våt jord mellan snöfläckarna som vi nu längtar efter.

Betyg: 4

Prada Infusion de Vétiver

Prada Infusion de Vétiver är skapad av Pradas husnäsa Daniela Andrier. Doften är egentligen klassad som herrdoft men i mitt tycker är det en klar unisexdoft. Mina väninnor som sniffade den från min handled gissade till och med att det är en damdoft.
När det gäller vetiver har min hud svårt när vetivern blir för tät och mörk och i mitt tycke mer herrig, typexempel MPG:s fina kultdoft Route Vetiver. För mig går gränsen någonstans vid Laliques Encre Noir (herrversionen).
Åter till Pradan: Doften är grön, lätt örtigt transparant. Den känns som en skalad vetiver, snarare från växdelar ovan jord en själva roten. Det finns en transparant spritsighet från vitpeppar och ingefära som ger en fräschör som inte är av typen "lakan som torkar i solen". Infusion de Vétiver är en mycket bra doft för sommaren som också passar bra i höst - en typisk "grå dräkt med krispig vit blus" doft.

Doften sitter medelbra, jag testade den på handleden med några rejäla sprits tidig kväll (i och för sig inte optimalt underlag, man ska vara nyduschad). Vid sänggående  vid halv två tiden på natten var doften fortfarande ofragmenterad. Men vid uppstigning vid halv niotiden var det ytterst få fragment kvar.
Även om Infusion de Vétiver är en bra doft så är den väldigt lik övriga Prada Infusioner. Basen i Infusion de Vétiver är Pradas herr Infusion så att man kan säga att Id V  i stort sett påminner om den doften men med vetiver tillagt. Så har man redan en annan Infusion så är det tveksamt om man behöver Infusion de Vétiver också.

Betyg: 3  (med reservation för den begränsade provningen och pga att doften inte är särskilt originell jämfört med övriga Infusioner)

Dagens Doft - Paestum Rose

Den här rosen är alldeles för ljus men vad göra. Mitt bildbibliotek är inte enormt. Foto:Parfumista (c)

Eau d'Italies Paestum Rose börjar där Montales Deep Rose slutar i en purpurfärgad ros som allt mer övergår i nästan svart. I PR är rosen en ingrediens som liksom ingår i mixen. Om man jämför den med Aoud Damascus häromdagen där rosen utgör bortåt 50% av doften som samspelar med övriga ingredienser som delar på restrande 50%.
Den mörka rosendoften är som tydligast i toppnoterna sedan finns den där tillsammans med rökelsträ, myrra, mycket patchoulli (som jag älskar, den ger rosor en dramatisk touch), något lite ormbunkslikt, en lagom dos cederträ (kan bli för skarpt och pepprigt med för mycket) vetiver och harts. Det finns såklart mycket mer i doften men detta är något om stilen. För mig är den främst mörk ros, patchoulli och cederträ. PR är skapad av den superhypade Bertrand Douchaufour och jag tycker att PR vid sidan av Dzongkha tillhör hans bättre skapelser.
PR är en mycket dramatisk och melankolisk doft, den passar året om men inte när det är som varmast. Perfekt denna kalla vår. Väldigt stark för att vara en EDT och kan lätt överappliceras vilket hände mig en gång vilket gjorde att jag inte vill använda doften på månader. Vid närmare eftertanke så påminner PR en hel del om Laliques fina Perles de Lalique , men den senare är tyngre på cederträet.

Betyg: 4+