The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2021

Picture: Christmas 2021
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve (sunny outside and daytime temprature ca -10) and just a little powdery snow is the comforting Tobacco Rose from Papillion Artisan Perfumes created by the founder of the perfumehouse, Liz Moores. Like a very dark red rose placed over moisty but fresh smelling moss, honeyd - beewax accord, almost cold balsamic notes over slight salty ambregris.  Something smelling like pickled juniperberries is also teasing my nose. Overall Tobacco  Rose is very natural smelling and a suitable scent for cold weather when relaxing indoors. Mr Parfumista is wearing a real classic: Knize Ten with its fascinationg and characteristic  notes of  high quality wool fabric. The youngsters are wearing Chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore EDT respectively no perfume at all.

Below the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last eightteen Christmas Eves: 

2020: Rubikona Puredistance (contemporary chypre fresh - earthy and green accord, surounded and contrasted by smooth ,elegant creamy flowers). 

2019: Gold Puredistance (with a beautiful myrrhnote, a sort of smooth resin/sap and a cold (but not freezing) outdoor -in the wood - impression 

2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers) 

2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)

2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody) 

2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals) 

2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote) 

2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy) 

2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+. 

2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals) 

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices) 

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices) 

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense) 

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental) 

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices) 

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note) 

2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers) 

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse) 

I wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas, stay healthy and safe

Love Chanel

Picture: Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
Photo from the blog The Encanted Manor

Chanel is a house with an aesthetics to love (just as Hermès). The chic aesthetics  also affects, or maybe more correct, inspires the fragrances from the house. The fragrances are well made and even if not in love with every subline, my craving for Chanel fragrances is enough to qualify Chanel as one of my favorite perfumehouses. I think many of the Chanels in the regular line is as good as Les Exclusifs, the difference is more in price and distribution, not the quality of the production.

I very much appreciate the aldehydic classics like No 5 in its difierent versions, as also the mossy citrus of Cristalle and the greenery of No 19 in the different interpretations of those classics. Also the modern classics as the incredible spicy oriental Coco and the not as much talked about gem Allure Sensuelle are favorites as also the mega hit, the contemporary fruity-floral chypre Coco Mademoiselle and its balsamic, spicy follower Coco Noir.

When it comes to Les Exclusifs there are also plenty to love. The green and clean woody vetiver Sycomore, the putty, slight dirty aldehyde No 22, the strange amberette No 18, the elegant flowers of Beige and best of them all the smooth, light flower touched, gunpowder leather of Cuir de Russie.

I'm now curious to try the new Gabrielle and find out if the new Chanel pillar fragrance will qualify among my favourites.

Perris Monte Carlo - Santal du Pacifque EDP & Extrait

Picture: Staute of Ganesha in sandalwood
Photo by Ricce
Wikimedia commons 

The Santal du Pacifque duo (Edp & Extrait) was released 2016 together with the Absolue d'Osmanthus duo from monegasque perfumhouse Perris Monte Carlo. Both are a part of a range of perfumes which presents  "singlenotes" in different settings and interpretations. Here is my previous reviews of the line.

Picture: Santal du Pacifique EDP
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Santal du Pacifique starts with a warm, sparkling, transparent sandalwood. with a prominent fignote. I think fig is a part of sandalwood as it's present also in for example By Kilian Sacred Wood  which is the sandalwood fragrance which is most similar to Santal du Pacifique from what I come to think of when wearing Santal du Pacifique especially in the Edp concentration. The Edp concentration is woodier and denser than the Extrait which emphasizes the flowery and light spicy aspects of sandalwood. Both versions lacks the cocoa accent which is present in sandalwoodfragranceas as Sacred Wood and Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule and are therefore lighter in apperance. The Edp is deeper, warm, smooth woody as one can imagine the scent of a piece of polished sandalwood in the sunset, warmed by the sun during the day. There are also darker, a bit pleasant dirty barnyardnotes glimpsing from the depts of the Edp contrasting the fresh sandalwood. In the later stages the SdP Edp reminds me lot of Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Edt but less green.As the latter has sandalwood as a prominent note beside the vetiver, that's not surprising especially as both fragrances has the similar tonality on the fragrance notescale. When it comes to the Extrait this version,as mentioned above, is more of a arier, soft woody floral with some warm dry salty, spicy elements. In the middlenotes there are also contrasting notes of a damp vegetation, in the same good way as the barnyardnotes in the Edp. A hint of the figgy note persist duting the whole dry down of the Extrait and contributes to a seaish impression and the overall impression is that the Extrait has some similarities with Hermès Epice Marine even if less spicy.

Picture: Santal du Pacifique Extrait
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Santal du Pacifique is a versatile, casual elegant and comforting fragrace which could be worn year around. It's unisex even if the Edp probably will attract men more as it's less flowery and more woody. The Edp has medium sillage and the Extrait is close. Longevity for the Edp is over 12h and the Extrait almost for a day.
A clean and pared down contemporary sandalwood which smells natural and not of perfumery.

Rating: 5

Notes: Sandalwood, floral notes

Vero Profumo - Onda Voile d'Extrait

Picture: Onda Voile d'Extract
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c) 

Onda Voile d'Extrait is swiss perfumer Vero Kerns of Vero Profumo alternative interpretation of the original Onda Extrait (released 2007). To me, the Voile d'Extrait is more similar to the Extrait then the Edp with its passionfruitnote which is the characteristics for the Edp versions of Onda, Rubj and Kiki.

In both Onda Extrait and Voile d'Extrait the vetivernote is dominating and in both fragrances in a different way than in most vetiverfragrances, especially the extrait is unusual. In both fragrances the vetiver is surrounded by spices, herbs, mossy and woody elements which creates the perfect image of the smell of early spring, when the snow has just melted and the sun is warming up the soil in the forestground. That was the situation when I tested Onda Voile d'Extrait and I took a walk around the small lake in the woodland nearby. Onda Voile d'Extrait matched perfectly as well as the drops of the Extrait that I worn on my left arm as reference. When comparing the two Ondas I think the Extrait is the more difficult of the two. The Extrait starts deeper, darker and almost animalic, dirty whereas the Voile d'Extrait is ligther and more sparkling, it has more of the fizzy gingernotes where Extrait has deeper and warmer spicy notes. The Extrait is more retro in style, with powdery, a bit dirty  notes and the vetiver is seamless blended with the other ingredients. The Voile d'Extrait is clearer, the vetiver is greener and more distinct and the composition is somehow fresher in appearance. I think the Voile d'Extrait will appear to a broder public than the Extrait which is more complicated and to generalize, more of a "perfumista fragrance". I like both versions but prefer the Extrait as it is more challenging during it's developement.

Onda Voile d'Extrait is suitable for casual daytime wear but it's also good for office. It's perfect for late winter and spring, the sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Those who likes vetiver fragrances such as Chanel Sycomore and L'Artisan Parfumeur Coeur de Vetiver Sacré, sharp, dark, smoky greens as Hermès Eau de Gentiane Blanche and Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver will probably also appreciate Onda Voile d'Extrait.

Rating: 4  (Onda Extrait still 5 just as when I tested 2009 and 2011)

Notes: Vetiver, ginger, nutmeg, coriander