Peonies

Picture: A summerview from Stockholm Old City
Photo: Parfumista (c) photo from exactly
 a year ago, 24 June 2018

 

Even if I have no beautiful peonies in the garden I'm now (after the midsummerevening choice of Penhaligon's Peveone) into testing peonyperfumes. There are only two of them in my collection, the other one is Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine (VP). I was wearing VP yesterday and just as Peveone VP, at least from the later part of the heartnotes and in the basenotes, is mostly a pink rose perfume. The rose in VP is light, pastel tuned pink, whereas Peveone is dark pink. VP is dry compared to Peveone which is lush, juciy and showing up its beauty in a composition that creates the image of a warm, humid summerevening. VP is dry and chilly, understated, the peonies and roses ar accompanied with a wellbalanced dose of pinkpepper and cedarwood. There is a light touch of fruit which doesn't become sweet. VP is the image of peonies a grey, chilly and windy summerday. There is something, probably the rosewater and the chilly feeling, with VP that reminds me of an easy to wear rosefavorite of mine: Coquillete Tudor.

 

The notes of Vert Pivoine are (according to Fragrantica): Peony, ivy leaves, rose water, rose, gardenia, mimosa, red fruit, sandalwood, cedar, musk, vanilla.

 

The notes of Peveone are (according to Fragrantica): Violet leaf,, jasmine, rose, peony, vetiver, musk, chasmeran

Peoneve

Picture: The pink rosebud of yesterday
has unfolded during the midsummernight
Photo: Parfumista (c)

For the evening yesterday I switched fragrance to Penhaligon's Peoneve and it tangy, bitter peony (i a good way)combined with the pink rosy smell was great for Midsummer. This time the scent of peony dominated over the rose, usually it is the opposite.

Eau D'Italie - Rosa Greta

Picture: The imagined colour of Rosa Greta
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Rosa Greta is a tribute to the timelessy beautiful Greta Garbo, created by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrain for italian stylish nichehouse Eau D'Italie. Eau D'Italie describes the inspiration of the fragrance as "In 1938 Greta Garbo suddenly vanished from Hollywood.  Later the paparazzi discovered her secret hideaway: a stunning villa in Ravello on the Amalfi Coast, overlooking the blue of the Mediterranean, its gardens fragrant with blooming clusters of the famous Ravello Rose.  The divine Garbo shone again all her light, having lived moments of secret happiness with her new lover.  To this tale of love and life we have dedicated Rosa Greta."

Rosa Greta starts true rosy combined with slight herbal tea notes similar to example Bvlgari Eau Parfumeé au Thé Blanc. This accord creates an almost ozonic, outdoor, by the sea accord and I can imagine bright, light red, crispy roses in an elegant Amalficostgarden. The litchi is not apperant as a detectable note by itself, probably it is there to balance the harsh aspect of the teanote and to highlight the fruity notes of the rose. The rose is very clean an natural (as Garbo herself) and it's present in that shape during the whole drydown of Rosa Greta. Somewhere in the first part of the fragrance, I can smell an element one of my favorite Eau D'Italie Un Bateau pour Capri, an element that somehow reminds me of the mediterranean air and sea from a distance, not the smell directly on the beach. The cedarnote is also bright and clean, underscored by the ambrox which gives Rosa Greta a bright radiance and a longevity for more than a day even if its a light, daytime rose in style. It's a uncomplicated, contemporary rose, very versatile and enjoyable to wear, especially for summertime. It's the counterpart rose to the dark, complicated, mysterious Eau D'Italie Pasteum Rose another favourite from the line. Rosa Greta appears a bit different in different wearings. Mostly i appears as the clean, sea-air-ish rose as described here, but in some wearings the airish notes becomes sparkling, fizzy somewhere in the middlenotes. This sparkling, fizzy apperance reminds me of Ramon Monegal Kiss My Name and Lovely Day but without the slight peppery note apperant in those. As the two mentioned Monegals, Rosa Greta is a happy fragrance.

Picture: Rosa Greta
Photo: PR Eau D'Italie (c)

Rosa Greta is a beautiful, versatile, daytime rosefragrance, with good longevity and medium silage. Suitable both for casual and at work especiall in summer. A fragrance that couldn't disturb anyone and not as intriguing as it's  muse. To me both Pasteum Rose and Un Bateau pour Capri is more Greta, but as the inspiration for Rosa Greta is the image of Greta Garbo in the context of the Ravello Garden and Gretas clean, blonde, classic look, I can see the connction.

Rating: 4

Notes: litchi, white tea, rose bud, damascus rose, ambrox, cedarwood

Carner Barcelona - Rose & Dragon

Picture: Saint George and the Dragon (1432-35)
Painting by Rogier van der Weyden (1399-1464)
Wikiart.com

Rose & Dragon is the third creation in the luxury, well crafted Black Collection from Carner Barcelona. Rose & Dragon is inspired from the legend of Saint George who saved the princess from the dragon. From the dragons blood, a rosebush with dark red roses grew.

And that one can imagine: Rose & Dragon is a thick, dark, rosy, spicy potion, resting over an animalic, soft leathery dept. The fragrance is sweetened with the todays it-note in contrasting leather or other dark, rough notes: Sweet berries as raspberrys and strawberrys, which could also be found in for example Masque Russian Tea, Tom Ford Tuscan Leather and Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather (not mentioned among the notes in the latter but I can smell it). Rose & Dragon has some similarities in style with these fragrance but is rosier, more animalic and spicy. It is also sweeter, has a certain liqueurish vibe, is much more deep and mysterious. When it comes to the latter; Rose & Dragon delivers the same mysticism as another dark and deep rose, Frapin Nevermore, even if that spicy rose interpretation is almost dry and less sweet than Rose & Dragon.
To my note Rose & Dragon is also the most feminine of the three fragrances in the Black Collection and also more feminine than the fragrances mentioned above. A more feminine dark and mysterious rose I come to think of when wearing Rose & Dragon is Parfumerie Générale Isparta.

Picture: Rose & Dragon
PR: Carner Barecelona (c)

As apprehensible from all associations mentioned above, Rose & Dragon isn't anything new or groundbreaking but it's a very well crafted and smooth blended fragance, one of the very best in this genre. With such heavy ingredients there is always a risk that a fragrance becomes cloying, harsh and unstable, especially if cheaper ingredients are used. Rose & Dragon is avoiding all such mistakes, it is top notch.

Wearing Rose & Dragon is a pleasure and the day is filled with constant wrist sniffing. It's wearable also for elegant evening but should'nt be restricted for such occasions. It's a quite linear fragrance and one can enjoy its mysterious and beautiful accords almost all at the same time. Longevity is about 24h and sillage is medium.
Rose & Dragon is my favorite from the Black Collection, an excellent example of the dark, deep, mysterious sort of rosefragrance which I love.

Rating: 5

Notes: Saffron, cumin, wild strawberry, cinnamon, bulgarian rose, turkish rose, honey, incense, castoreum, leather, labdanum, amber

Parfums de Nicolaï - Rose Royale

Picture: Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Royale,
resting in the snow,
 reminding of the coming Spring
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Rose Royale is a celebration to spring, launched by Parfums de Nicolaï to Valentines Day 2017. This (pink IMO) rose soliflore is inspired of the rosegardens of Palais Royale in the center of Paris.

Rose Royale starts pink rosy with natural smelling fruity accents. The fruity notes are somehow almost dry in appreance and there is nothing too sweet or artifical about it. I especially recoginze the note of passionfruit but lighter and not as prominent as in for example Vero Profumo Rozy Edp or in the tribute to the passionfruit flower from Maître Parfumeur et Ganiter Fraîche Passiflore. In the topnotes also there is also a contrasting glimpse of the fresh, tangy nuance of blackcurrant as also the bergamot which provides the fragrance with a particular chic style. Coriander also brings a light green, refreshing spicy touch to Rose Royale, which togther with the bergamot, provides a slight retro vibe or perhaps it's more appropritate to call it timless.

Picture: Rose Royale
Photo: Parfums de Nicolaï (c)

Rose Royale is all about the rose flower itself, with no interference of stems and greenery. Its about the natural fresh smell of the velvet smooth pink rose petals. It's a bright but not at all shrill rose, it is happy and uplifting when waiting for spring in the last days of the winter. When Rose Royale dries further down, I can also recognize a more severe side of the fragrance, there are snapshots from a darker dept where traces of an accord familiar to the metallic, cold, bloody rose of Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin are hiding. This gives an intresting twist to this over all polite, refreshing, pink, rose. The roses of Rose Royale resting in a elegant, well balanced musky smooth, warm, woody base where also a very light immortelle sparkles..

Beeing an "easy to go" EDT aimed for spring, Rose Royale has a good longevity if liberally applied. I can smell traces on skin after more then 12 hours. It's a very wearble daytime fragrance both for work and casual. The sillage is somewhere between close and medium.

Rose Royale is something to tray for those who like a uncomplicated but still wellconstructed, rose soliflore as for example Annick Goutal Rose Pompon, Maison Francis Kurkdijan À la Rose and Téo Cabanel Early Roses.

Rating: 5

Notes: Blackcurrant buds, passionfruit, bergamot, coriander, rose, ambrette, immortelle, sandalwood, guaiac wood, musk

Maria Candida Gentile - Rrose Sélavy

Picture: Rrose Sélavy (Marcel Duchamp)
Photo: Man Ray, 1921 

Rrose Selavy is an intriguing rosefragrance from italian perfumer Maria Candida Gentile dedicated to one of the leading artist of the dadaism Marcel Duchamp and his double identity Rrose Selavy. In the 1920:s Duchamps was photographed as a women, Rrose Selavy in a cooporation with Man Ray.

Rrose Selavy is an all through rosefragrance, built around different types of roses, and from different parts and extractions of the roses. The perfume starts with the natural smelling rose accord as for example in Annick Goutal Rose Absolue and Montale Taif Roses. As in both of these fragarnces, Rrose Selavy has the for the natural roseaccord typical rubbery note,  but less rubber than in the two mentioned fragrances. As Rrose Selavy developes, some light animalic, a bit furry notes appears as also a dry touch of something similar to cinnamon. The fragrance has a tea-ish texture, but there are no sharp or harsh edges as in some tea fragrances. This texture reminds me of Masque Russian Tea not the scent but the apperance. The clean and natural rose petal note (vevet pink if it had a color) appears now and then in short glimpses during the dry down, the rest of the time it's mixed with the other notes of rose. There is also a sort of herbal, candided impression in the basenotes, as the rosepetals are glazed in a light herbal sweetness. In the basenotes there is also a light leathery note and some of the dry fur is playing underneath.

Picture: Rose Sélavy
Photo: Maria Candida Gentile (c)

Rrose Selavy is in the same cold, airy but in the same time not thin style of velvet pink rose fragrance as Hermès Galop d'Hermès but Rrose Selavy is more eccentric in style, completely unisex, and less sweet in its restrained rosy, slight leathery apperance. The leathery tone in Rrose Selavy has the touch of fur mentioned above as the leather in Galop is that of a fine pair of gloves with a scent bordering to suede.

Rrose Selavy is an elegant not so rosy, rose soliflore. It's perfect for daytime wearing for example for office. Sillage is close, it's parfumeconcentration, longevity for more than a day if applying liberally, if only little applaied it lasts shorter than a day.

A beautiful and rare rose soliflore. It smells as it has many more notes than the variations of the rose and maybe it has as, notelists are seldom complete. .

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose petals, Turkish rose, May rose, Michelle rose, rose stems, rose leaves

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Ormonde Jayne - Ta'if

Picture: In the Bey's Garden (1865)
Painting by John Frederick Lewais (1805-76)
Wikimedia commons

An Ormonde Jayne Classic, the beautiful oriental rosefragrance Ta'if was created by perfumer Geza Schoen in 2004.

Starts with a burst which smells like green pepper, not pink, mingling with something reminding of a tangy citric note. Soon an slight juicy, pink, rosy note appers, and then the whole accord becomes light creemy after a short while and Ta'if reminds me of a bit sharper, less juicier Le Galion La Rose. As Ta'if developes, the rose interacts with the other flowers, the bright and chilly freesia is prominent to me. Ta'if is more of a boquet than a solar rose fragrance and surprisingly bright and high up on the fragrance note scale to be an oriental fragance. The saffron is playing a supporting role in the background, not at all as prominent as in the standard dark, often oudy, oriental rose fragrance. At one stage in the middlenotes a hint similar to cedar appears which together with a fizzy, peppery note, reminds me of a light and smooth interpretation of Perles de Lalique and also of a more refined, cremy and smooth version of Marni. The datenote provide a moderating dark, fruity component, anchoring the kind of shrill flowers together with the pleasant amber-musky base.

Summed up Ta'if is a pleasant rose in the cold rose category. It's slight watery, but not at all thin, on the contrary it's heavy but in the same time transparant as the air of high humidity up in the mountains. As less sharp and more juicy/creamy than most cold roses, there is hints of warm trails Ta'if in some parts of the dry down. Since Ta'if creation many roses in the same style have emerged, I also comes to think of Burberry Body and Unum Rosa Nigra, and even if Ta'if is not as unique anymore, it has stood the test of time very well and is still a wellcrafted, intriguing fragrance. The longevity is great, traces are left after 24h, and sillage is good. Proper for daytime wearing escpecially for office or formal occasions. Works for year around, exept the coldest months.

Rating: 5

Notes: Pink pepper, saffron, dates, freesia, rose, orange flower, jasmine, broom, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art för the sample to test

UNUM - Rosa Nigra

Picture: From the medevial Källa church
on the island of Öland, Sweden
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Rosa Nigra is the latest installation in the UNUM perfume line. Rosa Nigra is as the other UNUM fragrances LAVS and Opus 1144 created by Filippo Sorcinelli. Rosa Nigra is created as a variation of the retro powdery smelling Opus 1144.

Rosa Nigra starts with an very intriguing accord which reminds me of a windy, chilly, grey, cloudy day, cold stone, chalk, earth, tangy greenery, like the steem and leafs of a rose. There are some traces from the flower of the rose too, it's a rose from a wild rosebush, not tamed to perfection, I can imagine the rose growing outside an abandoned small medieval countryside church. The tangy, green, dark spirit note of absinth is clearly present, blended with the rose and the chillyness of freesia, balanced with a pleasant peach. This is a combination thet could also be found in Burberry Body but in that one the accord is in a higher octave of the scented notescale and also a bit sweeter. In the topnotes I also find a note that reminds me of honeyed incense and I suspect someincense is involved even if not mentioned in the notelist.

Picture: Rosa Nigra
Photo: PR Unum (c)

As Rosa Nigra dries further down the blend is clearing up after the initial storm and the flowers, peach, absinth are shining also as individual notes interacting in an intricate pattern. One can recognize Opus 1144 but without the thick powdery and dusty lemony smell. The peach is the mainplayer in the second part of Rosa Nigra, the peach has a vintage vibe which make me think of a brighter and cleaner version of the peach in Guerlain Mitsouko. Later on Rosa Nigras also reminds me of the contemporary fruity chypre EnJoy from Jean Patou.The floral-fruity accords are highlighted by the well balanced woody, muksy base. The longer Rosa Nigra dries down the more rosy it becomes, once again. This time there is much more of the rose petals and the perform in a pleasant, pink, creamy version but it's well contratsted with the tangy greenery but in a smaller dose than on the topnotes. Once again the similarity of something that could be a luxury variation of Burberry Body is obvious.

Just as the incensebomb  UNUM LAVS, Rosa Nigra goes from a dramatic, imaginative opening to a much more polished and orderly second part. In the case of Rosa Nigra the fragrance goes from a medivial feeling to a polished contemporary version of a 1920s/1930s fragrance and in its latest stages to a contemporary musky rose.

I find the opening most interesting but in the second part, Rosa Nigra transforms to a very wearable (around the year), really good smelling (at least in the rosy part) and elegant fragrance. Rosa Nigra is classified as an unisex scent but to my nose that applies to the first dramatic part of the fragrance. The elegant second part is more feminine. Sillage is medium and longevity good, for 24h at least.

Rating: 5

Notes: Anise, absinth, freesia, sandalwood, peach, vanilla, cashmere wood, musk, ambra

Annick Goutal - Rose Pompon

Picture: Rose Pompon
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)

Rose Pompon is the latest fragrance from Annick Goutal, created by Camille Goutal and a new perfumer to me, Philippine Courtiére. According to Annick Goutal buzz the rose pompon woman exudes joie de vivre which is reflected in the perfume. 

Rose Pompon also starts happy and cheerful as a big smile with a note that is similar to smooth grapefruit, the pink/red variety. The grapefruit is not mentioned as a note but what is there is ver similar but has no metallic vibes nor the catpee note that sometimes appears in grapefruit combinations. The opening make me think of Yves Saint Laurent Baby Doll Paris.The mediumpink rose appears mixed with a clear and natural note of raspberry and the a fresh, watery tinge of peony. The light woody, musky base has a gentle touch of patchouli which creates a modern light chypre-ish vibe. It's not the typical, modern oversweet chypre, Rose Pompon has a more classic vibe to the chypre accord, even if contemporary styled, and reminds me of the basenoteaccord of EnJoy by Jean Patou without the pineapplenote. Also the elegant Ramon Monegal L'Eau de Rose comes to my mind even if that one is without the berrynotes and a bit more formal.

Picture: Rose Pompon
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)

Rose Pompon really is a feminine, chic and happy fragrance, uncomplicated and easy to wear. I think the PR movie with Camille Goutal is spot on. Mr Parfumistas spontaneus comment when I tested Rose Pompon was "smells like a better mainstream". Rose Pompon will be the perfect companion for spring, but unfortunately my sample will running out long before that. The only drawback with the fragarnce is the longevity, even if heavy applied, it doesn't last for a whole day. Compared to the other rose centered fragrances from Annick Goutal, Rose Pompon is the most uncomplicated and will probably attract a wider audience then the green, thorny, tangy Rose Splendide or the classical, rubbery, pure roseoil blend Rose Absolue.

Rating: 4

Notes: Raspberry, black currant, pink pepper; rose and pink peony, musk, cedar, patchouli

Perris Monte Carlo - Rose de Taif

Picture: Rosa Damascena
Photo/author: Kurt Stüber (cc)
Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Rose de Taif is a classical, intense and beautiful taif rose blend created by the obviously rising star perfumer Luca Maffei for the perfumehouse Perris Monte Carlo. Taif roses are above all damascena roses of different types which are cultivated in the city of Taif in Saudi Arabia, the favorable climate and special soil produces some of the most exclusive roses and thereof also roseoils in the world.

Rose de Taif starts bold with tart, almost medical and very natural smelling rosenotes. The medical smell is not of the oudy character, there is no oud in this creation, but instead of an sort of old fashioned, acied and light spicy character. This vintage feeling reminds me of the cold, anticeptic, light spicy rose of the very beautiful rose of Parfum d'Empire Eau Suave. Just as Eau Suave I imagine the rose in Rose de Taif as velvety pink in color. Where Eau Suave has some fruity elements and coriander Rose de Taif is just soft spicy and there is a clear note of nutmeg coming through.

As Rose de Taif dries down, the tart rose becomes more prominent. The rose smells dry but not dried as in potpourri, it has some light sweetness but absolutely not in the jammy or cosmetic styled way. There is very little of the greenery (leaves and steam) from the rose, Rose de Taif is predominantly about the rose petals even if somehow from the deeper layers of the fragrance, a whisper from the rubbery note of roseoil appears. Also compared to another beautiful blend of taif roses Montale Taif Roses Rose de Taif is about the rose petals wheras Taif Roses also includes the greenery and therefore becomes more sharp and rough in it's appearance. In the basenotes a pleasant musk grounds the whole fragance but there are also light woody elements in the base as also a note or combination of notes that reminds me slight of dark but not smokey tea. Probably the tea impression comes from the rosenote as tea-ish nuances is a part of the great register of roseoil. Even if Rose de Taif darkens a bit in the base, the fragrance is still bright and bold in character.

Picture: The intriguing bottle of Rose de Taif
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Rose de Taif is a classical and strong taif rose blend with many intriguing layers under what in the first impression could appear as a simple rose blend. For me as a roselover, Rose de Taif is one of the absolute best, if not the best tested so far, in the cathegory of natural smelling rosefragrances. It's a real pleasure to wear, suitable for year around, it has a distinct but not obtrusive smell as it attracts compliments. The longevity is great, about 24 hours and it lingers on cloth for days. Unisex IMO even if lending slight to the feminine side. Soon an extrait version of Rose de Taif will be released and concluded from the quality of the Edp version described in this review, the extrait will probably be magnificent.

Rose de Taif could be appreciated by those who likes the lovely blend of different rose types by Annick Goutal, the natural smelling Rose Absolue where Rose Absolue is even more rosesoliflore, without the spicy additions.

Rating: 5

Notes: Nutmeg, lemon, geranium, taif rose, damask rose, musk

Brecourt - Les éphémères - Rosa Gallica

Picture: Rosa Gallica (Romania)
Photo: From Wikimedia, user Bogdan, (cc),
some rights reserved 

Rosa Gallica is the first creation in the special collection "Les éphémères" from niche house Brecourt. The fragrances are created by perfumer and housefounder Emilie Bouge. The story behind Les éphémères is according to information from Brecourt as follows: "Each perfume in the "Les Éphémères" collection directs its focus on a rare and precious raw material. Often it involves completely forgotten substances that can only be produced in very small quantities or are too unstable to be noted on the list of popular fragrances.Whoever manufactures a fragrance under such conditions cannot guarantee that the fine raw material in the center of the composition will be available again in the required quantity or quality in the following year. No one can predict whether a perfume can ever be reproduced as the perfect equivalent to the "first edition." Therein lies the volatile nature of these creations: they are impermanent, not reproducible, available only for a short time and in limited quantities ... "éphémère". " The Rosa Gallica is a very old type of rose, known from 1100 BC and imported to Europe by the crusaders in the middleage.

Picture: Rosa Gallica
Photo: PR Brecourt (c)

The perfume Rosa Gallica starts with the for "single" roseperfumes typical, a bit oily, rubbernote, this time i percieve it as been located in the pink octaves of the note scale. The opening accord with the roseoilrubber reminds me of the opening of Annick Goutal Rose Absolue. Soon Rosa Gallica transforms to a darker (still pink), sweeter, balsamic, almost jammy rose with peppery-light spicy accents, probably the myrrh-incense combo. Here Rosa Gallica resembles another beutiful rose fragrance, this time of the oriental type: Aramis Calligraphy Rose. The roses are a bit more prominent in Rosa Gallica whereas Calligraphy Rose has a wider range of notes, also spices and herbal notes. After this stage, Rosa Gallica lightens a bit in the imagined pink nuance and the peppery note intensifies on a musky background, here I recognize a bold, oriental rosy favorite of mine: Montale Roses Musk  Either of these fragrances are containing oud according to their notelists but I think there is some involved as both has some of the woody peppery note that is involved in many oud fragrances. For a short while I percieve Rosa Gallica sweeter again, with an almost vanillic touch and Mancera Roses Vanille shows up. In the basenotes, Rosa Gallica turns back to the Aramis Calligraphy Rose phase again, but more rosy and pink than the latter when comparing the basenotes.

Picture: Rosa Gallica
Photo: PR Brecourt (c)

As indicated above, Rosa Gallica has similarities with a bunch of distinctive oriental rose fragrances, Therefore it's not particularly original or innovatory but it smells really good and is a pleasure to wear. Rosa Gallica is classified as unisex, to me it leans to the feminine side on the scale. Longevity is great about 24h and sillage is big but not overwhelming. Rosa Gallica was not at all what I've expected, when reading of the background and looking at the picture of this ancient rose. I thought it would be a relatively light but tenable natural, clean smelling pink rose in the style of Annick Goutal Rose Absolue or Rose Splendide (swe), which was the case only in the very first accord.


Rating: 5


Notes: Baie rose, incense, gallican rose, myrrh, cashmere woods, ebony, ambergris

Thanks to ParfumMaria for the sample to try

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Rose Privee

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Rose Privee is the latest rosecomposition from the classical nichehouse L'Artisan Parfumeur. Rose Privee is a creation of Bertrand Duchaufour and Stephanie Bakouche. Earlier rosecentered fragrances from the L'Artisan are the dark and dramatic Voleur de Roses and the rose-violet powder Drole de Rose. Rose Privee is something in the territory in between despite the pink, rosy packaging which indicates a light and sheer pink rose.

Rose Privee has one of the strangest openings that I have smelled for years which is definitly positive in my book. When described it will probably not be perceived as positive but it is as the fragrance balancing on the edge to smell unplesant but don't turn over to the wrong side. Rose Privee starts with
the for roseoil typical rubbernote which very soon turns to the smell of warm tires and then transforms in something similar to the smell of catpee in dry, hayish grass. If separating the notes in this cat-accord I smell mandarine, hay and basil and it seems as theese notes blended evokes this fatal olfactory combination.

Picture: Rose Priveè
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

After this nose-catching and challenging start, Rose Privee in its middlenotes becomes a more ordinary, rose dominated, floral (lilac, magnolia) musky blend with both fruity and herbal accents which creates a slight schizofrenic fragrance which couldn't chose which personality to be. In the basenotes there are dark notes with a dry patchouli which smell almost like dry tobbacoleaves combined with traces of basil  and amber. The somehow messy and uncertain impression of the middle- and basenotes unfortunately offsets the edgy start of the fragrance and lowers the overall impression of Rose Privee.  In the middle and basenotes there is something that reminds me of Vero Profumo Rozy Edp, probably the rose-lilac combo. Despite its messy character and the fact it's a bit annoying (the same phenomen as in Coqullite Tudor) I think Rose Privee is better than its reputation, it has got some negative comments in the blogosphere.

Rose Privee is suitable to wear for non-casual occasions year around. Sillage is medium and longevity great, about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Basil, mandarine, hay, lilac, carnation, magnolia, may rose, violet leaves, patchouli, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Téo Cabanel - Hegoa

Picture: Hegoa
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel

Hegoa is a light breezy, refreshing fragrance in the natural summerscent category from top quality niche house Téo Cabanel. Hegoa is created by inhouse perfurmer Jean-François Latty.

Hegoa starts teaish with soft, supporting citric notes. The tea is soft green and soon also a watery, dewy white rose joins the breezy blend and Hegoa is fleeting in a discrete and elegant cloud around the wearer. As wearer, it feels like taking a bath in a luxary rosewater with the bathtube full of the white rosepetals. The longer Hegoa dries down, the moore notes of greenery comes forward. The green notes are smooth and delicate, like budding leaves. A soft and discrete musk is emphasizing the top and middlenotes and an ambery glow and some very light woods constitutes the base. Hegoa is a true example of "less is more" carefully blended and balanced with high quality ingredients.The fragrance feels very natural, no sharp chemicals in sight (smell). It's a carefree, casual chic fragrance, refreshing and suitable to wear in daytime, year around even if the fragrance itself  signals sunny summerdays in a wild english styled garden. Sillage is very close and longevity almost for a day.

Even if not smelling the same, Hegoa would probably appeal to those who like light, fleeting rosefragrances such as Parfums de Nicolai Rose Pivoine and Annick Goutal Rose Splendide. Also those who likes Early Roses and Lace Garden from Téo Cabanel, will like Hegoa as  it shares their natural, elegant style but in a lighter and more transparant interpretation.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citrus, mandarine, rose petals, green tea, violet, wood, musk, amber

PS:  Fragrance & Art also carries the Téo Cabanel line.

Téo Cabanel - Early Roses

Picture: Young woman in a rosegarden
Painting by Umberto Veruda (1868-1904)
Source: flickr.com

Early Roses is created by the inhouse perfumer of the venerable perfumehouse Téo Cabanel, Jean-Francois Latty some years ago. The Téo Cabanel house IMO create high quality, very wearable, natural smelling fragrances with timeless character, a house which should be tested by perfumelovers who likes the styles of the houses of Parfums de Nicolaî and Annick Goutal.

Early Roses starts with a perfectly balanced combination of pink dewy, heady roses and an smooth pink pepper which isn't sharp or dominating at all. There are also natural smelling, light woody notes with a smell which reminds me of some fresh cedarwood and most of all; juniperwood. The pink rose is dewy fresh without any tangy or souer nuances. This stage feels very natural and refreshing and also a bit rare as refreshing roseaccords often involves geranium which isn't the case here.

As Early Roses dries further down, a smooth, fluffy creaminess appears, also this accord is perfectly balanced, nor the musk or the touch of berries are overpowering or too sweet. It's like a clean, minimalist cream where high quality roses are melted down. The rosy creaminess is resting on a warming and golden glowing  amberbase with light woody nuances. The amber is also light, delicate and feels sort of natural, there is not the heavy ambroxstyle, which is present in many contemporary rosefragrances. There is also a pleasant, slight salty touch in the later stage of Early Roses, that creates a slight seaside impression, maybe a hint of ambergris.

Picture: Early Roses
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel

Fragrances which reminds me of Early Roses are for example Coquiliete Tudor for the rosy creaminess, where Tudor is not so well balanced and harsh and screachy in comperasion. A fragrance of high quality which comes to, my mind when wearing Early Roses in its later stages is Parfums de Nicolai Rose Oud which also has delicate ambery, woody, rosy basenotes.

Early Roses is a officefriendly fragrance for days when craving a delicate pink rose, regardless season. Sillage is medium and longevity for about a day.

Early Roses is a fragrance in the same transparent, elegant, flowery style as the latest release from the Téo Cabanel brand, the delicate white flower-tubereuse Lace Garden. Both fragrances could be equaled to olfactory Monet gardens.

Rating: 5

Notes: Jasmine, water, rose, pink pepper, musk, amber, wood

Le Galion - La Rose

Picture: Hever Castle rose garden and fountain, Kent, England
Photo: Graham Bould 2007, Wikipedia commons 

La Rose is another successful flowery re-creation (see the reviews of Tubereuse and Iris in January 2015) performed by Thomas Fontaine. The original is as usual when it comes to Le Galion, a Paul Vacher creation for his own house, a house that has been revived during 2014.

La Rose is a very juicy rose, warm and flowery like the smell of the petals in hot weather, one can imagine contempling in an english rosegarden a very warm summerday. There are no steams or green leaves from the roseplant in the mix. It starts sparkling and flowery, followed by smooth notes of cedarwood, nothing sharp or pencilshaving alike. Despite the cedar, La Rose is warm in texture and apperance, the more it dires down, the more it settles in a very pleasant creaminess. La Rose is also supported by other flowers and just as in Le Galion Iris, the lily is prominent to my nose. There are also a light fruity touch in La Rose. When La Rose has reached the musky, slight woody basenotes, a pleasant boozy notes appeares, the smell is as if whisky has been stored in rosewood barrels.

Picture: Le Galion La Rose
Photo: PR Le Galion (c)

Fragrances with similarities to La Rose when it comes to the woody part are Lalique Perles and Marni Marni, despite those are the complete opposites in their apperance, sharp, icy and cold as the winter. When it comes to the lush flower expression of La Rose, it is in the same style as Tubereuse and Iris, as the three fragrances has a similar background but featuring different flowers.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, violet leaves, rose, ylang-ylang, peach, water notes, lily; cedar, patchouli, vanilla, musk


Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to try.

Maison Nicolas de Barry - L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal

Picture: Empress consort Mumtaz Mahal (1593-1631)
Mughal painting from 17th or 18th Century
Wikimedia commons

L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal is a deep, oriental-floral fragrance  created of  Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet for the perfumehouse of the former, Maison Nicolas de Barry which creates perfumes inspired from the history. Nicolas de Barry has also created the historic inspired line Les Parfums Historiques for Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier George Sand and La Reine Margot, which both also are released in the Maison Nicolas de Barry - line. Later i.e next year I'm planning to review those  (thanks to samples from Fragrance & Art) and compare to the MPG issues.

L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal, in the following LMM, is of course dedicated to the cause of the construction of  Tai Mahal - the beloved third wife (the favorite)  of indian ruler Shah Jahan,  Mumtaz Mahal.

LMM, starts with an accord of wonderful, rubbery, roseoil with some light green elements glimpsing through. This is the rubbery rose that is also present in Annick Goutal Rose Splendide but much more rich and dense in LMM and with less of the tart greenery of the Goutal. The rubbery rose is also present in Montale Tai'f Roses but less sweet and sharper. In the Montale I imagine the rose as medium red, in texture as a stiff silk fabric as in a robe form the 14-15th century, in LMM it's medium pink with a silk, velvet finish. As LMM developes a pleasant boozy element appears as also an well integrated spicyaccord. The beautiful blend is anchored in a base of smooth sandalwood which has nothing sharp or chemical about it, it smells like a smooth piece of sandalwood, polished with sandpaper.  I also smell a gentle oud and a note I think is nagarmotha from the base.

LMM has a tickness and dept which are rare in western perfumery today, even the most expensive nichefragrances seems thinned and volatile compared with LMM. LMM has similarities in the style and smell with some oils I have tried from Arabian Oud and also with the very good but not often mentioned Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Rose which is sort of a western styled diet variation of LMM. There is also a kinship in texture and expression with Vero Profumo Rozy Voile d'Extrait.

LMM is a fragrance for the colder months of the year but I can imagine it also blooms beautiful in the indian night. Silage is grand when applied but medium when dried down to the basenotes, longevity for 24h. A very special fragrance, strong and intensive, it has to be applied carefully. Great for festive occasions as for example New Years celebration.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, sandalwood (according to the notelist but I smell att least Spices, boozy notes oud and nagarmotha in the blend)

Coquillete - Tudor

Picture: Elisabeth of York, (1465-1503)
queen consort of England
Paining from ca 1500, unkonwn painter
Wikimedia commons

Tudor is said to be the last installment in the fragrance journey of french nichehouse Coquillete. There is no perfumer mentioned for Tudor.

Tudor starts with a pink,velvet rose carried by a fully ripe lemon, which create a fresh, fruity but not too sweet vibe of the fragrance. There are absolutely no harsh or sharp edges either from the lemon or from the rose. The rose smell  is the fresh petals, without the green leaves, steam and thorns.  One can imagine a noble lady relaxing a sunny, early summer day outside a heavy medival castle relieved that the "cousins war" or as we call it today, the war of roses was finally over.

As Tudor reach the middle, the rose and other notes mingles in a beautiful, creamy texture, smelling almost like the smooth rose-nailcream  (don't remember its name)   which my mother used decades ago and also told me that  her grandmother used. Going further in the drydown, Tudor suddenly becomes slight spicy and the pink velvet darkens. There are also earthy qualities apperaing, just as the moisty loam of the forestfloor  heated up by the warm sun contrasting the early summerlight and delicate green of the grass, bushes and  threes. In the basenotes Tudor continues in the light spicy, creamy style and also gets deeper and more balsamic in texture. There is a touch of amber added with light vanilla notes that together with the rest, creates a strange sort of  dark putty lipstick-accord, almost touching a smooth, dark leathery element. In this part there is someting (the dark lipstick) that reminds me of a pale version of the beautiful Rozy Edp from Vero Kern, part of the basenotes of that fragrance seems to be present also in Tudor. There is also a dark, slight herbal, medical note contrasting in the base, in this fragrance darker and ticker than in the archetype of medical roses, Parfume d'Empire Eau Suave. In the overoll context of the basenotes there is also something that reminds me of a feminie interpreatation of Frapin Nevermore, which I experience as a masculine rose. Tudor is, just like Nevermore, classified as unisex but to me it's much more feminine in style, for those who cares of genderclassifications. The longer Tudor dries down in the base the more sweet (like a deep dark frutiy retro candy note) but also, unfortunately, also indistinct and plain it becomes. The top-, middle- and early basenotes is the best and interesting parts of Tudor, in the second part of the basenotes nothing happens.

Picture: Tudor
Photo: PR Coquillete (c)

Taken as a whole, Tudor despite its shortcoming (compared to the earlier stages) in the late dry down, is an intriguing rose fragrance, developing from a innocent, creamy, pink and sunny rose to a darker variation with some not so innocent nuances. The fragrance  may actually serve as an olfactory portrait of the first Tudor queen, Elisabeth the Princess of York (the White rose) married to the Tudor (Lancaster the red rose) Henry, who bacame king Henry VII as the outcome of the civilwar and both parents to Henry VIII. Without any sharp edges and with its sort of retro sweetness, Tudor smells timeless and sort of mysterious natural, like a recipe of a brew  preserved since the days of the Tudors.

Tudor is suitable to wear year around, for any (non-sport) occasions. Sillage is medium and longevity for a day. This intriguing and timeless perfume also causing compliments to the wearer.

Rating: 3

Re rating 2018/2019: 4 + - this is a comfortable and easy to wear rose for everyday. It doesn't become boring, it has enough interesting twists. A rose suitable for fall and winter.

Notes: Rose, geranium, lily of the valley, amber, benzoin, soil, rosewood, labdanum, benzoin, grey amber, vanilla

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Tudor

Parfum d' Empire - quick reviews

Recently, I (and Mr Parfumista) tested some almost forgotten samples from the wellcrafted Parfum d'Empire line, all the samples is from the "old" line ie before the change in bottledesign.
Below some quick impressions:

Picture: Yuzu Fou (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Yuzu Fou: Citiric, kumquat and bitter orange notes contrasted with different bright, green notes such as bamboo and verbena. Creates a sunny and warm impression and a touch of something fizzy spicy as ginger. Goes much better with Mr Parfumistas skinchemistry than mine.

Picture: Osmanthus Interdite (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Osmanthus Interdite: This osmanthus is just lovely, it reminds me of another light and tender favorite but featuring another flower, ByKilian Imperial Tea.

Picture: Equistrius (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Equistrius: Strangely enough this is said to be an iris as it smells close to Antonio Visconti Rose Savage but on the other hand  neither the iris in E or the rose in RS are particularly clear or dominant, they are just parts of two elegant and well crafted fragrances.

Picture: Wazamba (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Wazamba: A gentle and unusually warm incensefragrance with some slight sweet, spicy notes. It is said to be inspired of Africa and I could agree as it has that warm and different twist compared to  the  austere styled cold european incenses. Great longevity.

Picture: Fougere Bengale (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Fougere Bengale: One of the best blond tobacco scents out there, smells pure and authentic as freshly harvested tobaccoleaves. A winner for Mr Parfumista.

Fragrance & Art carries the full line and have some bottles left of some of the Pd'E fragrances in the old styled bottles to the old considerably lower price.

Frapin - Nevermore

Picture: "Le Corbeau"
  Drawing by Édouard Manet (1832-1883) 

The haunting dark, mysterious Nevermore is the latest release from the vernarable congnachouse of Frapin, a house which also create perfumes, almost always with a boozy touch. Nevermore is inspired of the life, work and mysterious death of the american novelist Edgar Allan Poe especially from the poem "The Raven" and also the suggestive story of the "Poe Toaster". The Poe Toaster is a figure in a dark cloak who appears on the birthday of Edgar Allan Poe, put down three roses, toasts in a glass of congac and left the remains in the bottle on the grave. And what could be a better interpretaton of that scene than Nevermore....

Nevermore starts with a honeyed, beewaxnote. Soon an almost metallic spicy pink-purple rosy accord appears, followed by a rosy and winey accord  close to the special winey accord in  Frederic Malle Une Rose but in Nevermore the accord is in a drier interpretation. I percieve Une Rose as sweeter, but to me the closest fragrance to Nevermore. The spicy metallic vibe is probably from the saffron and there is also a slight oudy, impression. As the ingredient is not mentioned Nevermore is probably a representant of the genre "non oudy ouds" ie fragrances which recalls oud in the texture and appearance but featura the oud note, Among the dry spices there is also  something from the dark green bayleave note present from Andy Tauer Une Rose Chypreé. There is also an slight earthy impression and a dark leather note, like the stiff leather in a black leather trenchcoat, glimpses by.

Picture: Nevermore
Photo: Frapin (c)

In the basenotes a distinct but wellbalanced, slight woody powdery like pulverized dry woodshavings of cedar,accord is present. There is also a beautiful and natural smelling rose present, very dark red, almost black and with a touch of decaying notes. In the late basenotes there is like the rose gets lighter and more pink-purple again but still wrapped in the cedar and in a contrasting  warm amnber.

Taken as a whole Nevermore is suggestive and triggers ones imagination which is something I demand from a fragrance to be FBW. It is very longlasting on skin with a strong sillage, this is a fragrance that must be carefully applied. In style it's a quite masculine rose, it developes in a very beautiful way on Mr Parfumista, not that good on me. When worn by Mr Parfumista there is some similarities with another favorite of him, Montale Aoud Saffran even if Nevermore is drier and more cold spicy.

Rating: 5 (on Mr Parfumista) 4 (on me)

Notes: Aldehydes, nutmeg, black pepper, rose, saffron, amber, cedar

Vero Profumo - Rozy Voile d'Extrait

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Rozy Voile d'Extrait is another version of rosy Rozy theme created by swiss perfumer Vero Kern. Rozy EDP is reviwed in the previous entry. The Rozy fragrances are inspired from the passiontaed italian actress Anna Magnani.

Rozy Voile d'Extrait starts flowery sweet, with a blast of natural smelling, nectarious tubereuse, supported by rose. The tubereusenote reminds me much of the honeyed tubereuse in the beautiful Annick Goutal soliflore Tubéreuse. Even if emphasing another flower, also Maria Candida Gentile Hanbury comes to my mind in the first stage of Rozy Voile d'Extrait, probably the honeyed texture. After a while, Rozy Voile d'Extrait turns in an almost animalic accord when a pleasant dry, furry, horeslike note appears. There are also some slight earthy, dirty notes contrasting the sweetness. One should not be sacred of the melonnote mentioned among the ingredients. It's not the despised calone and I can't smell it as a separate note. Probably it's just supporting and sparkles the mix up with some fruity freshness. When Rozy Voile d'Extrait reaches the basenotes, it is still sweet but more vanillic/balsamic/resinlike and darker in its character than in the earlier stages. In the basenotes Rozy Voile d'Extrait reminds me of another sweet swiss beauty, Andy Tauers Le Maroc pour Elle. Mr Parfumistas spontaneus comment about Rozy Voile d'Extrait smelling it first after ca eight hours after application; "it smells very oriental, as you have rolled around in myrrh".

Compared to Rozy EDP, Rozy Voile d'Extrait feels more natural smelling, darker and more dense, less radianting but not shy, like the though, natural looking sister that stayed living in the countryside, hunting, riding and breeding horses. Rozy EDP on the other hand, with its rosy-cosmetic style, is the artisitc and adventurous sister who moved to the big city, working with fashion, always original styled and never without makeup. Rozy Voile d'Extract is more conventional in style and it smell more similar to several other fragrances on the market than Rozy EDP with its (to my nose) obvious reference to the original Schaparelli Shocking.

Picture: Rozy Voile d'Extrait
Photo: PR Vero Profumo (c)

Just as Rozy EDP, Rozy Voile d'Extrait has a good longevity, about 24h. The sillage is closer, just as an extrait is constructed vs an EDP, but it's no skinscent until after ca fifteen hours. Both Rozys are best for evening wear but lightly applied, they could be worn at daytime at least during the colder months. I like both Rozys very much and even if I think the EDP is more intriguing with its combination of notes and similarities to Shocking, the more conventional Voile d'Extrait smells just amazing on me.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, tubereuse, honey, blackcurrant, melon, coriander, nutmeg, labdanum, sandalwood, styrax, vanilla