Ormonde Jayne - Ta'if

Picture: In the Bey's Garden (1865)
Painting by John Frederick Lewais (1805-76)
Wikimedia commons

An Ormonde Jayne Classic, the beautiful oriental rosefragrance Ta'if was created by perfumer Geza Schoen in 2004.

Starts with a burst which smells like green pepper, not pink, mingling with something reminding of a tangy citric note. Soon an slight juicy, pink, rosy note appers, and then the whole accord becomes light creemy after a short while and Ta'if reminds me of a bit sharper, less juicier Le Galion La Rose. As Ta'if developes, the rose interacts with the other flowers, the bright and chilly freesia is prominent to me. Ta'if is more of a boquet than a solar rose fragrance and surprisingly bright and high up on the fragrance note scale to be an oriental fragance. The saffron is playing a supporting role in the background, not at all as prominent as in the standard dark, often oudy, oriental rose fragrance. At one stage in the middlenotes a hint similar to cedar appears which together with a fizzy, peppery note, reminds me of a light and smooth interpretation of Perles de Lalique and also of a more refined, cremy and smooth version of Marni. The datenote provide a moderating dark, fruity component, anchoring the kind of shrill flowers together with the pleasant amber-musky base.

Summed up Ta'if is a pleasant rose in the cold rose category. It's slight watery, but not at all thin, on the contrary it's heavy but in the same time transparant as the air of high humidity up in the mountains. As less sharp and more juicy/creamy than most cold roses, there is hints of warm trails Ta'if in some parts of the dry down. Since Ta'if creation many roses in the same style have emerged, I also comes to think of Burberry Body and Unum Rosa Nigra, and even if Ta'if is not as unique anymore, it has stood the test of time very well and is still a wellcrafted, intriguing fragrance. The longevity is great, traces are left after 24h, and sillage is good. Proper for daytime wearing escpecially for office or formal occasions. Works for year around, exept the coldest months.

Rating: 5

Notes: Pink pepper, saffron, dates, freesia, rose, orange flower, jasmine, broom, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art för the sample to test

Annick Goutal - Les Absolus 1001 Ouds

Picture: Enjoying Coffee, Oueen Shirin of Persia (d 628)
Painter from the french school,
 first half of the 18th century
Wikimedia commons

1001 Ouds is the third fragrance in the Les Absolus line from Annick Goutal. It's created by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal.1001 Ouds is inspired from the tales of the Arabian Nights.

1001 Ouds strarts with an smooth dry but in the same time creamy accord. The first impression of the fragrance is very original to me, it smells as something I'll describe as a creamy juniperberry. There is none of the sharpness from the usual interpretation of that note, just the woody-herbal character of the berry smoothened to a soft, fluffy texture. As there is no juniperberry among the notes I suppose it's the oud mixed with the birch, papyrus and rose which creates this inmpression, I can recognize this juniperberry like oud note from By Kilian Pure Oud where it's stronger and raw in its interpretation. As the dry down is approaching, the beautiful creamy, medium red rose, steps forward, fleeting in the fluffy but in the same time dry setting. The rose note slightly reminds me of the juicy rose in Le Galion La Rose, but not as big and radiating. There is a contrasting chilly aspect which is dry a bit like paper, probably the papyrus, combined with a soft, very light boozy almost applelike note, probably the myrrh, which has similarities with an accord in the great masculine Royal Vintage from M.Micallef. 1001 Ouds also feels royal, but it's to my nose is a feminne royalty.

As 1001 Oud dries down it becomes woodier and rosier but still preserves its excellent smoothness, it's a real comfort to wear this fragrance. It has not so much to do with the regular ouds, here the oud is one of the components interacting and not dominating over the other ingredients. This is not a "statementperfume" like many in the oud genre, this is pure, soft elegance. Maybe the name should be another as the many oudhaters which seems to be out there, at least in the perfumeforums could be scared away. But those should not fear, it's better to think of this as a woody oriental perfume and don't think of it as an oud. On the other hand I think the name is good as this perfume reveals that oud is an excellent ingredient and it could be presented in many shapes.

1001 Ouds is suitable to wear around the year, it has nuances that fit each season. The sillage is close and the longevity is for a day. A discrete, high quality fragrance, safe to wear in any occasion. Another winner from Annick Goutal and one of the best releases in 2015 IMO.

Rating: 5

Notes: Oud, papyrus, rose, pimento, birch, guaiac wood, myrrh

Le Galion - La Rose

Picture: Hever Castle rose garden and fountain, Kent, England
Photo: Graham Bould 2007, Wikipedia commons 

La Rose is another successful flowery re-creation (see the reviews of Tubereuse and Iris in January 2015) performed by Thomas Fontaine. The original is as usual when it comes to Le Galion, a Paul Vacher creation for his own house, a house that has been revived during 2014.

La Rose is a very juicy rose, warm and flowery like the smell of the petals in hot weather, one can imagine contempling in an english rosegarden a very warm summerday. There are no steams or green leaves from the roseplant in the mix. It starts sparkling and flowery, followed by smooth notes of cedarwood, nothing sharp or pencilshaving alike. Despite the cedar, La Rose is warm in texture and apperance, the more it dires down, the more it settles in a very pleasant creaminess. La Rose is also supported by other flowers and just as in Le Galion Iris, the lily is prominent to my nose. There are also a light fruity touch in La Rose. When La Rose has reached the musky, slight woody basenotes, a pleasant boozy notes appeares, the smell is as if whisky has been stored in rosewood barrels.

Picture: Le Galion La Rose
Photo: PR Le Galion (c)

Fragrances with similarities to La Rose when it comes to the woody part are Lalique Perles and Marni Marni, despite those are the complete opposites in their apperance, sharp, icy and cold as the winter. When it comes to the lush flower expression of La Rose, it is in the same style as Tubereuse and Iris, as the three fragrances has a similar background but featuring different flowers.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, violet leaves, rose, ylang-ylang, peach, water notes, lily; cedar, patchouli, vanilla, musk


Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to try.