Rania J - Lavande 44

Picture: King Henry VIII,  (1491-1547)
Painting ca 1537 by Hans Holbein (1498-1543)
Wikipedia commons 

Lavande 44 is the lavenderinterpretation of Rania Jouaneh, perfumer with her own house, Rania J.
Lavande 44 starts with a natural smelling sparkling lavender highlighted by slight bitter, aromatic citrusnotes. After a while some spritzy green, almost like geranium appears, probably traces from the vetiver mixed with lavender and others. When moving further there is also an almost gourmand vibe in the fragrance, maybe the powdery, sweet tonka gives that effect. In the basenotes, Lavande 44 is considerably darker in character and texture then most lavender fragrances. The combined notes, creates a very pleasant leathery note and ther is also a pleasant almost sour note that contrasts the sweetness of the tonka been. The lavender is still present in the basenotes but not as herbal as in the beginning of the fragrance. In this stage it's much more intergrated with the other notes and harder to pick out as a separate one. In the basenotes Lavande 44 reminds me of a more straightforward Vero Profumo Kiki Extrait or Kiki Voile d'Extrait, the Kikis to my nose are a bit more complicated with some more layers in the compositions. As a great Kiki devotee I of course also like Lavande 44. Just like most of the other Rania J fragrances, Lavande 44 is in the same time contemporary and timeless, which seems to be a feature of the Rania J. line. Lavande 44 is, just as Rose Isthar, a fragrance that I can imagine whiffing by in the Tudor court, the pleasant smell of lavender but with something dark and dangerous underneath. Would have been perfect as a shared fragrance between Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn.

Picture: Lavande 44
Photo: PR Rania J. (c)

Lavande 44 is a lavender also for autumn and winter. It's close to the wearer and perfectly officefriendly. Longevity is good for a lavenderfragrance, over a day.

Even if Lavande 44 is darker and more dramatic, I think that fans of natural smelling lavenderfragrances on the higher end of the fragrance notescale, such as Maria Candida Gentile  Luberon  and Caldey Abbey Perfumes Caldey Island Lavendel (swe) would appreciate Lavande 44.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Bergamot, petit grain, lavender, patchouli, tonka been, oud, labdanum, vetiver, musk

Thanks to Rania J for the samples to try.

Vero Profumo - Kiki Voile d'Extrait

Picture: Mr Dunfords Champion wirehaired Foxterrier
Arthur Wardle early twentieth century painting

Over the years, Kiki both in Extrait and Edp has grown to be my favorite fragrance from Vero Kern, dethrone Rubj to be number two. Therefore it was of course very intruiging to test Kiki in the Voile d'Extrait version.

Kiki in Extrait is an multifacetted fragrance with notes of lavender and some notes that reminds me of wheat and beer notes over a dark, fresh earthy accord in the basenotes. Review here. The Edp version is almost gourmand in style and the passionfruitnote contrasted with dark patchouli is more prounanced. Review here.

To make a long story short, I think that Kiki Voile d'Extrait is close to the extrait (just as Rubj and Onda) it just play one or two ocataves higer on the scale. The fragrance is brighter and more sparkling in its apperance and the lavender is a bit more pronounced.

All the Kikis are intriguing fragrances with new twists in each stage. Kiki is a demanding, stubborn, racy and energetic character which is never boring, just as the two (after each other) wirehaired foxterriers of my grandparents who were named Kiki.

Kiki Voile d'Extrait has a good longevity just as the extrait, over 12h. Nice to wear during autumn, winter and early spring.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citron, black currant, passionfruit; lavender, geranium, musk, patchouli, opoponax, amber caramel