6 Fragrances for Summer 2017

Picture: Clover 2017
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Soon already in the late days of summer 2017, time for a list of perfumes I like for summer. And not just for this summer but for summers in general.

Reverie au Jardin (Tauer): This is imo a neglected fragrance from Swiss perfume meastro Andy Tauers earlier creations, worn by me for about ten summers now. Seems simple but is in the same time clever in construction: Lavender, greenery like clove, an outdoor, green incense and probably a woody violetnote as Mr Parfumista associates to Dior Farenheit when I'm wearing Reverie au Jardin.

Eau d'Orange Verte (Hermes): What more to say after decades with this tangy, green, bitterorange elegant "fresh" brew grounded in moss, than: A masterpiece, the best and most versatile Cologne ever.

Verveine (Heeley): Round, full, like what I imagine a green full moon in dark August would look like if such should exist. A sort of grassy-fruity green scent with what I percive as a figgy-woody accord. Delicious for summer.

Mon Patchouly (Ramon Monegal): Dark, earthy patch in some interpretations is refreshing for middle and late summerdays. Mon Patchouly is a delicious but non-sweet take on patch with its powdery, dry powdery cocabeenfacetts.

Coton Egyptien (Phaedon): Ultra blue skies over sunbathed dunes, a loose shirt in a light, almost transparent, white, crisp egyptian cotton. The fragrance is green like grass, with a clean accord which smells almost like a green, dry, laundry detergent.

Musk Samarkand (Les Neréidés): A clean, robust white musk with something slight dirty lurking in its depts. No detergent and refreshing as a chilly summer breeze a hot sunny day. Reminds me of a budget alternative (but just as good as) to the new interpretation of Parfumerie Generales old Musc Maori 04: Le Musk et la Peau 4.1. My bottle of Musk Samarkand is an earlier version, the bottle with the bookmark angels on the sticker.

Eau D'Italie - Rosa Greta

Picture: The imagined colour of Rosa Greta
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Rosa Greta is a tribute to the timelessy beautiful Greta Garbo, created by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrain for italian stylish nichehouse Eau D'Italie. Eau D'Italie describes the inspiration of the fragrance as "In 1938 Greta Garbo suddenly vanished from Hollywood.  Later the paparazzi discovered her secret hideaway: a stunning villa in Ravello on the Amalfi Coast, overlooking the blue of the Mediterranean, its gardens fragrant with blooming clusters of the famous Ravello Rose.  The divine Garbo shone again all her light, having lived moments of secret happiness with her new lover.  To this tale of love and life we have dedicated Rosa Greta."

Rosa Greta starts true rosy combined with slight herbal tea notes similar to example Bvlgari Eau Parfumeé au Thé Blanc. This accord creates an almost ozonic, outdoor, by the sea accord and I can imagine bright, light red, crispy roses in an elegant Amalficostgarden. The litchi is not apperant as a detectable note by itself, probably it is there to balance the harsh aspect of the teanote and to highlight the fruity notes of the rose. The rose is very clean an natural (as Garbo herself) and it's present in that shape during the whole drydown of Rosa Greta. Somewhere in the first part of the fragrance, I can smell an element one of my favorite Eau D'Italie Un Bateau pour Capri, an element that somehow reminds me of the mediterranean air and sea from a distance, not the smell directly on the beach. The cedarnote is also bright and clean, underscored by the ambrox which gives Rosa Greta a bright radiance and a longevity for more than a day even if its a light, daytime rose in style. It's a uncomplicated, contemporary rose, very versatile and enjoyable to wear, especially for summertime. It's the counterpart rose to the dark, complicated, mysterious Eau D'Italie Pasteum Rose another favourite from the line. Rosa Greta appears a bit different in different wearings. Mostly i appears as the clean, sea-air-ish rose as described here, but in some wearings the airish notes becomes sparkling, fizzy somewhere in the middlenotes. This sparkling, fizzy apperance reminds me of Ramon Monegal Kiss My Name and Lovely Day but without the slight peppery note apperant in those. As the two mentioned Monegals, Rosa Greta is a happy fragrance.

Picture: Rosa Greta
Photo: PR Eau D'Italie (c)

Rosa Greta is a beautiful, versatile, daytime rosefragrance, with good longevity and medium silage. Suitable both for casual and at work especiall in summer. A fragrance that couldn't disturb anyone and not as intriguing as it's  muse. To me both Pasteum Rose and Un Bateau pour Capri is more Greta, but as the inspiration for Rosa Greta is the image of Greta Garbo in the context of the Ravello Garden and Gretas clean, blonde, classic look, I can see the connction.

Rating: 4

Notes: litchi, white tea, rose bud, damascus rose, ambrox, cedarwood

Perris Monte Carlo - Patchouli Nosy Be Extrait

Picture: Nosy Be
Photo: from Pinterest 

Patchouli Nosy Be is the most recent patchouli fragrance from Perris Monte Carlo. The Nosy Be part of the name is from the island suitiated on the north west of Madagascar, the island is famous for cultivating ylang-ylang, coffe and vanilla but the climate is suitiable also for other spices and flowers. The Nosy Be Patchouli is a successful experiment where the manager of the ylang-ylang plantation of the well known fragrance ingredients producer Robertet planted patchouli on the Nosy Be Island. Here the patchouli plants could be protected from the sharp sunlight by the foliage of other plants and this favorable cultivation combined with a careful harvesting process creates a high class multifacetted patchouli oil. The Nosy Be fragrances of Perris are as today, also an Edp version of Patchouli Nosy Be, which was released 2014 a year before the extrait, as also an Ylang Ylang Nosy Be in Edp and Extrait. These will be reviewed later on.

Patchouli Nosy Be starts with the herbal, leafy, almost fresh, patchouli which is present in most niche patchouli offerings from the latest years, an early example is Histories de Parfums Noir Patchouli but this one is sharper, rougher and more transaparent in its herbal leafiness. Also Franck Boclet Patchouli comes to my mind in the initial accords. After a while warm spices appears, predominantly pepper, blended with a note of cacao simlar to the combination in for example Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly and Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 even if the latter is darker and denser. The pepper, which I also think is strengthend from the cedarwood in the base, is a bit too distinctive to my nose/taste for a short part of the dry down but is fortunately softened when a beautiful vanilla is sneeking in step by step in this contemporary woody-spicy blend with a patchouli addition. To me  Patchouli Nosy Be is not so much about patch as it is of spices, wood and vanilla, the patch is just one of the well bakanced, interplaying accords.The earlier Perris patchouli Essence de Patchouli, is much more of patchouli, more extreme and uncommon and personally I prefer this over Patchouli Nosy Be when I crave a real patchfrag. The best part of Patchouli Nosy Be is definitliy the comforting base where the spicy mixed patch is contrasted by a beautiful very natural smelling, slight flowery vanilla and discrete woody notes. The base note accords comes and goes like waves with a slight different highlighting of each of the main notes in different waves. It's a true delight wearing this perfume.

Picture: Patchouli Nosy Be Extrait
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Patchouli Nosy Be is a versatile warm fragrance, suitable for autumn, winter and early spring. It's unisex and could be worn both for work and casual. Sillage is medium and longevity good, more then a day, traces are left on skin after a nights sleep.

Rating: 5

Notes: Patchouli, pink pepper; cocoa, labdanum, vanilla, cedarwood, sandalwood

Annick Goutal - Rose Pompon

Picture: Rose Pompon
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)

Rose Pompon is the latest fragrance from Annick Goutal, created by Camille Goutal and a new perfumer to me, Philippine Courtiére. According to Annick Goutal buzz the rose pompon woman exudes joie de vivre which is reflected in the perfume. 

Rose Pompon also starts happy and cheerful as a big smile with a note that is similar to smooth grapefruit, the pink/red variety. The grapefruit is not mentioned as a note but what is there is ver similar but has no metallic vibes nor the catpee note that sometimes appears in grapefruit combinations. The opening make me think of Yves Saint Laurent Baby Doll Paris.The mediumpink rose appears mixed with a clear and natural note of raspberry and the a fresh, watery tinge of peony. The light woody, musky base has a gentle touch of patchouli which creates a modern light chypre-ish vibe. It's not the typical, modern oversweet chypre, Rose Pompon has a more classic vibe to the chypre accord, even if contemporary styled, and reminds me of the basenoteaccord of EnJoy by Jean Patou without the pineapplenote. Also the elegant Ramon Monegal L'Eau de Rose comes to my mind even if that one is without the berrynotes and a bit more formal.

Picture: Rose Pompon
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)

Rose Pompon really is a feminine, chic and happy fragrance, uncomplicated and easy to wear. I think the PR movie with Camille Goutal is spot on. Mr Parfumistas spontaneus comment when I tested Rose Pompon was "smells like a better mainstream". Rose Pompon will be the perfect companion for spring, but unfortunately my sample will running out long before that. The only drawback with the fragarnce is the longevity, even if heavy applied, it doesn't last for a whole day. Compared to the other rose centered fragrances from Annick Goutal, Rose Pompon is the most uncomplicated and will probably attract a wider audience then the green, thorny, tangy Rose Splendide or the classical, rubbery, pure roseoil blend Rose Absolue.

Rating: 4

Notes: Raspberry, black currant, pink pepper; rose and pink peony, musk, cedar, patchouli

Perris Monte Carlo - Essence de Patchouli

Picture: Moon over the Mediterranean sea  (Greece)
Photo: Mr Parfumista

Essence de Patchouli is the first patchouli fragrance in the Perris Monte Carlo line. Essence de Patchouli is one of the five first fragrances which were released in 2012, the other four starters are Bois d'Oud (reviewed a few weeks ago), Oud Imperial, Ambre Gris and Musk Extrême. In 2014 a second patchouli fragrance was released, Patchouli Nosy Be which I have not smelled when writing this review but plan to test and review the coming winter. Update March 2016 - review of Patchouli Nosy Be.

Essence de Patchouli starts with a very dark, balck or dark purple if imagine a color, velvety patchouli which is silky in texture. There are also some offsetting almost "ugly" notes that could be associated with mosquito repellent but in a non sharp, again velvety texture. The repellent accord steps backward as Essence de Patchouli dries down but is present in the background to prevent the fragrance to be too polite. The patchouli in this fragrance is not of the ambery type nor the herbal, which are the two cathegories that constitutes 90% of all patchfrags. The patchouli of Essence de Patchouli is instead as the patchouli leaves have been pickled in a musky, dark flowery a tad sweet souse. As Essence de Patchouli dries further down, the dark iris/rose combo becomes more apparent even if they are intergrated to such extent that they are hard to separate from each other. The sliky, light powdery patchouli impression prevail and the powdery note reminds me slightly of the cocapowdernote of Mon Patchouly from Ramon Monegal which is also a patchouli fragrance which is not ambery nor herbal but almost gourmand, which Essence de Patchouli is not. As with some other Perris Fragrances, Essence de Patchouli is grounded in a beautiful, either not chemical nor animalic smelling musk. The musk creates an intense, long-lived fragrance and it pronounces and highlights the other ingredients. Woody notes warmed up with a light touch of resin deepens the fragrance.

Essence de Patchouli mediates the picture and feeling of dining outside on a terrace by the sea a warm mediterranean summereveing with the dark velvettextured sky dark lighted by the silver full moon.
In darkness, texture, mood and apperance Essence de Patchouli reminds me of a forgotten gem which is based on a completely different note (incense) Juozas Statkevicius/Josef Statkus from the designer of the same name.

Picture: Essence de Patchouli
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Essence de Patchouli is appropriate to wear in most seasons, in summer one has to be extra careful when applying, a little goes ong and too much could be totally overwhelming especially when warm weather outside. To me Essence de Patchouli is a feminine creation even if it definitly could be worn by brave men. The silage is moderate to big and longevity for 24h.

Essence de Patchouli is another winner from Perris Monte Carlo, it's not happen often that the releases from house have a hit rate like this house when it comes to fragrances that I think is memorable and longing to wear even after the tests for the review is over.

Those who like Sergel Lutens Borneo 1834, Chanel Coromandel  and Prada Intense will probably also appreciate Essence de Patchouli even if the former three are more gourmand and the latter more floral in style.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, geranium, iris, cedar, guaiac wood, patchouli, musk, labdanum, coumarin

Franck Boclet - Patchouli

Picture: Empress Josephine in a
patchouliscented kashmere shawldress
Painting by painting by Antoine-Jean Gros (1809)
Picture from pintertest, referred to 1000fragrances.bolgspot.com 

Patchouli is a fragrance from the perfumline of the fashionhouse Franck Boclet. Patchouli is created by perfumer Melaine Leroux.

Patchouli starts with an old book musty patchuli but the old book note is not as strong or sharp as in Les Nereides Patchouli Antique. Soon the old book impression lightens up and a dark chocolate and spices are added, with the moisty impression prevails. After a while the chocolate and spices transforms to a beautiful, clean not by any means muddled tobbacco note. Tobbacco is not mentioned among the notes but somehow the fresh tobbacco smell is present. This clean almost sparkling and natural smelling tobbacco is the leading part for quite a while, the tobbacco reminds me of the beautiful Parfums de Nicolaï Cuir Cuba Intense. Then the patch, this time cleaner and earthier, once again takes the centerplace. The pathouli is now paired with a very pleasant, smooth, moisty, creamy, slight musky note, which rounds the edges off. As Patchouli dries further down, the spicy accord appears again as also the tobbacco glimpses now and then. The basenotes are woody with ambery, vanillic touches, the patchouli still present but appears lighter and cleaner almost as it now has transformed for a mission where it has to offset the other sweeter and heavier basenotes.

Picture: Franck Boclet Patchouli
Photo: PR Franck Boclet (c)

Having a soft spot for patchoulifragrances, Franck Boclet Patchouli IMO is a very good and multifaceted representant of the genre. As much is going on, with contrasting elements interacting in different ways during the different phases of the dry down, Patchouli is particulary intriguing when taken in consideration that it's presented as a solinote perfume (which it of course is not).

Patchouli is a warm, comforting and relaxing patchouli, perfect for autumn and winter. It's projects close to medium depending on dosage. It's unisex in character and could be worn for work or casual. Very good longevity, it lasts unfragmented for more than a day.

Those who likes patchouli fragrances as Chanel Coromandel, Oriza L. Legrand Horizon and Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly will probably like Franck Boclet Patchouli too.

Rating: 5

Notes: Patchouli, cedar- and sandalwood, amber, benzoin, tonka been, vanilla, musk

Thanks to Fragrance and Art for the sample to test

Téo Cabanel - Julia

Picture: Our new Swedish royalty HRH Princess Sofia
on her weddingday 13 June 2015.
Photo: From the press, avaible from many sources on internet

Julia is one of the first three releases (together with Alahine and Oha) when the old, venerable house of Téo Cabanel was re-launched in 2005. Julia is a re-working of inhouse perfumer Jean-Francois Latty of an older Julia formula, which I think I read somewhere was worn by Wallis, Duchess of Windsor who was a customer of Téo Cabanel in the most glorious days of the house.

Julia starts with a tangy accord of rhubarb and blackcurrant, notes thst could be harsh and sharp but obviously not in the skillfull hands of Latty. The accord feels. juicy and sunny which offsets the cold hyacinth dominated, flowery accord which is the heart of the fragrance. The hyachinth is supported by classical flowers as violet and jasmine and a plesant raspberry sweetness which supports the hyachinth-violet in the same discrete way as the iris is supported by the same berry in Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris. The raspberry and the rhubarb adds a contemporary touch to a, taken as a whole, timeless fragrance. The basenotes are elegant, woody, musky slight balsamic and matches the floral, tangy structure of Julia very well.

Picture: Julia
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel

Julia is a fragrance which suits very well for formal daytime summer dressing, it's a fragrance which intermediates confidence and exquisite taste. It´s discrete but in the same time clearly present, a very versatile perfume. Would be a good choice for a royalty like for example our new Princess Sofia for daytime representation. Longevity is good, for at least a day and sillage is medium.

Fragrances that comes to my mind (in style and apperance, they don't smell the same) when wearing Julia are Van Cleef and Arpels First and Purdistance Antonia.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarine, rhubarb, black currant, hyachinth, violet, jasmine, raspberry, musk, sandalwood, labdanum, incense

Ramon Monegal - Moonbloom

Picture: Moonflower before opening for the nightblooming
Photo: The Moonlight garden circle com (c)

Moonbloom  is created by spansh perfumer Ramon Monegal. Moonbloom is another Ramon Monegal exclusive for Bloomingdales in Dubai, see also Dubai Next To Me  for Bloomingdales in Dubai.

Moonbloom starts starts with sweet, creamy, white flowers where tuberose supported by orangeblossom dominates in a delicate mix,I don't know if there is any moonbloom within as I don't know how it's smelling. The opeing reminds me slightly of the old gem Versace Blonde, but more bright, clean and innocent. Moonbloom is quite linear in its construction and when Moonbloom has settled, it smells of sweet, honeyed white flowers inteacting with an light ambery smooth woody base during rest of its lifespan. The ambery, flowery aura of the fragrance, reminds me of the similar, but more classic in style, impression of Maison Nicolas de Barry Madame de Pompadour. Some darker passages are swirling up to the surface in the second part of the dry down, this passages remins me of the special almost inky rose, spieces, sandalwoody combination in Vero Profumos beautiful Rozy Edp. Another fragrance that comes to my mind is Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet but without the pleasant slight decaying greenery accord of the latter

To summon up Moonbloom, it's not an original fragrance as there are many in the same thick, almost tropical white flower style.The archetype for this style is to me a fragrance as Annick Goutal Songes even if there of course where other before that one in this group. On the other hand Moonbloom is very beautiful  and very pleasant to wear, smells wonderful. Even the picky Mr Parfumista commented in a very postive way on Moonbloom, and thats not happen very often when I'm testing new fragrances.

Moonbloom is an easy to wear fragrance, perfect for most occasions and is the type of fragrance which blooms and unfolds as best a very warm summerday. Longevity is for a day when tested under spring conditions ca 10+ C, silage is medium.

Rating: 5

Notes: Havn't found any notepyramid but I guess tubereuse, orangeblossom, rose, sandalwood, amber, vanilla. musk  are involved

Ramon Monegal - Very Private

Picture: Beneath the Lilac at Maurecourt,
Painting by Berthe Morisot, 1874,
Wikiart

Very Private is an exclusive composition created by Ramon Monegal for Bergdorf Goodman, New York. The fragrance is said to capture the hypnotic and magical impression of the Bergdorf Goodman flagship store as well as Central Park in springtime.
Very Private starts with a sunny burst of what I percieve as yellow-green fruity notes, accompanied by fizzy peppery notes. There is also a hint of alcohol in the beginning, the impression of a fruit cocktail. Soon also rose and a note that reminds me of melon appears. the fizzy, fruity first stages of the perfume reminds me of another joyful Ramon Monegal - Lovely Day. Lovely Day and Very Private also have some common notes; rose and licorice and I can also smell a similarity also in whole accords of the fragrances even if Lovely Day is more peppery and fresher where Very Private is more flowery with a golden, warm, honeyed sweetness. The melonnote is of the Galia varity, not watermelon. The lilacnote, to my nose, is recognizable in the second part of the dry down and I have to smell very close to really sort it out from the seamless blended fruity-flowery mix. The basenotes are a pleasant musky mix with oak moss and licorice adding some dept and contrasting darkness to the this bright and happy fragrance.



Picture: Very Private in its white cap,
 inkwell bottle
Photo: PR Ramon Monegal (c)

Very Private I can imagine (the test is done in cold springweather) is a durable fragrance for warm, summerdays. Also suitable for spring and wearable in most occassions, very good to cheer up in the office. Perfumesnons should not fear away as this is a genuine fruity-floral fragrance, it's not the sickingly artificial smelling sweet fruity-floral, Very Private smells almost natural in its interpreation of florals and frutis. Sílage is medium and longevity good, for a day.

Those who like Hermès Un Jardin apres la Mousson, Ramon Monegal Kiss My Name (which is in a similar style as Lovely Day) and Guerlain Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas will probably also like Very Private.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Citrus, fruity notes, tea rose, violet, lilac, orange blossom, oak moss, licorice, vanilla, musk

Ramon Monegal - Dubai Next to Me

Picture: Dubai Next to Me
Photo: PR Ramon Monegal (c)

Dubai Next to Me is a limited edition from Barcelona based perfumehouse Ramon Monegal. The fragrance was (at least originally) distributed only in Dubai.

Dubai Next to Me starts peachy, not the atrificial, chemical peach, but an accord which feels quite natural. The coconut is very smooth and also feels natural in style. Soon the peach is offsetted with smooth spices and later in the dry down also smooth, velvety flowernotes appears as also balsamic and a very smooth leather note. The oud is very soft and acts as a deep woody ingredient in the base, not recognizable as a distinct note. Dubai Next to Me, even if consisting of deep and thick notes, appears as somhow refreshing and transparant, there is an almost cold, metallic vibe to it, probably from the combination of rose and some of the spices. The fragrance is very well blended, made of high quality ingredients and it performs as it is fleeting in circles seamless around the accords, Dubai Next to Me seems not to be built in the traditional pyramid structure of accords, to experience this fragrance gives me associations to the Hermès scarf/shawl De la Mer au Ciel with its eternal circles of life.

Picture: Beautiful Hermès De la Mer du au Ciel,
140x140 cm cashmere/silk,
designer Laurence Bourthoumieux
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Dubai Next to Me is not a traditional, middle eastern perfume, it's a fragrance which is most certainly appreciated in any part of the world and it could be worn in most occasions except for sports. I think this fragrance demands much warmer tempratures than swedish spring (+10 C) to really bloom with its beautiful fruity, floral, spicy notes and I will test it again in the summer heat to confirm that. Silage is very close and longevity is good, for at least a day.

Other fragrances that I come to think of wearing Dubai Next to Me is Naomi Goodsir Or du Serail which is similar in style. Also Aqaba Midnight Sun even if stronger and more flowery, has something in common with Dubai Next to Me in the overall expression.

Rating. 4

Notes: Coconut, peach, melon, saffron, nutmeg, black pepper, jasmine, rose oil, rose absolute, frankinsence, cistus labdanum, oud, sandalwood, cashmeran, spanish leather, tonka, ambraceme absolute

Ramon Monegal - Hand in Hand

Picture: Skiers

Painting by Frits Thaulow (1847-1906)

WikiArt

Hand in Hand is an oud-oriental  inspired perfume from the Barcelona based perfumehouse Ramon Monegal. As usual the very experienced perfumer, the house of Myrurgia offspring, Ramon Monegal. As Myrurgia is mentioned as the Guerlain of Spain, Ramon could be likened to a spanish version of Patricia de Nicolaï. Both well educated and experienced in perfume/perfume business, running own perfume houses, independent from the old family houses which since long been sold to some of the big ones.

Hand in Hand starts cold, with a woody smell of juniper bush and pine in winter. After a while a smoky accord appears, it's the fresh, dry smell from dry wood, lighted to a campfire a cold and sunny winterday in the forest. This is not the rough,  masculine, meaty, smoky accord as in the campfiresmoke in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir, the smoke in Hand in Hand is more refined. After a while a hint of leather ant a peppery note also shines through. The dark rose is  discrerte in the first stages of Hand in Hand. Over all the first part of Hand in Hand (even if not smelling the same) reminds me of the first part of Robert Piguet Oud, which also contains the cold, pine note. These two fragrances could be described as the ouds of the North, they are very suitable to the Scandinavian landscape and colder tempratures. Hand in Hand also has some kinship to Frapin Nevermore, as an unsweet, dry relative to that dark, dramatic, boozy, intriguing one. In the second part Hand in Hand becomes more spicy, a spicy mix which togheter with a musky base brings forward the rose a bit more, even if the rosy note not is as dominating as in most rose-oud combos. The rosy note is as integrated with the other notes. In the later stages of Hand in Hand I find similarites with the dark, purple, rose from Parfumerie Générale Isparta.

Picture: Hand in Hand in it's inkwell bottle
Photo: PR Ramon Monegal (c)

The cold, confier and smoke accords  is the first part of Hand in Hand I find the most interesting, the second part is more familiar for this style of fragrance. Hand in Hand could be worn year around at any occasion where a more intense pefume could be accepted. The fragrance is very concentrated, and just as with Isparta, it's hard to avoid overapplying. Less is more is definitly what is applicable in this case. Sillage is great and longevity for 24h+. Hand in Hand is unisex, leaning to the feminine side according to my nose.

Rating: 4

Notes: Rose, oud, spices, musk

Le Galion - Iris

Picture: HRH Katherine Duchess of Cambridge,
in June 2012 - the perfect Iris wearer
Photo: Carfax2, cropped by Surtsicna (cc)
Wikipedia commons, some rights reserved 

Iris is another of the Le Galion soliflores, Tuberéuse is reviewed in the latest post. The original Iris was created by Paul Vacher 1937 and the reorchestration is made by Thomas Fontaine.

Iris starts with a soft carrot note which is not sharp or too earthy. After a while it steps backwards and Iris becomes more flowery when a sweet flowery note similar to violet appears. Until now Iris is quite similar to most comfortable and easy to wear irisfragrances. Then something peculiar happens, a tart green note, similar to celery apperars, offsetting the flowery  sweetness. The celerypart lasts for quite a while, the special green note doesn't disappear completely but it is very discrete in the rest of the flowery, musky drydown of Iris.In this part lily is the dominating flower and to be honeset, not much of the iris is present in the lovely boquet. The base is musky, slight woody in the same style as Tubéreuse but without the light animalic touch of the latter.

Iris, just as Tubéreuse, is an elegant, well made of good ingredients, classic flowery composition, refershing, very easy and comfortable to wear. Longevity is for a day and silage medium. Iris is suitable for daytimewear, perfect as a classy officescent as there is nothing chemical or sharp about it. Iris is a typical "don't know what to wear fragrance" something to put on when one doesn't for something challenging and demanding. Somehow I can imagine Iris is something that HRH Kate, the Duchess of Cambridge would wear.

Those who're searching for a feminine and flowery iris, or more precisely a good floral bouquet which features iris and lily notes, have to try this wonderful fragrance. Iris are in the same octaves on the note scale as Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile. Those who like irisfragrances such as Laboratorio Olfattivo Nirmal (sweeter), Prada Infusion d'Iris Edp (woodier), XeJroff Irisss (irisi-er) and Ramón Monegal Impossible Iris (frutier) would probably also like Le Galion Iris even if the irisnote is more prounanced in most of them compared to LG Iris.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citron, mimosa, hibiscus, iris, lily, rose, galbanum, cedar, amber, musk

My Christmas Eve fragrance

Picture: A winterrose. Also this year Christamas
is green and some roses are almost blooming.
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Time for the regular Christmas Eve post:. Scent of Christmas Eve 2014 is my favourite iris - Impossible Iris from Ramon Monegal. Suits this green, sunny and, after some rainy weeks, cold Christmas Eve. The chilly iris is enlightened by mimosa and rasberry which gives the formal iris an less severe expression. Mr Parfumistas SOTD is an old Classic, Santos de Cartier vintage version, suits well with its light note of  cinnamon.  Last year, also a green Christmas, was Chypre Mousse from Oriza L.Legrand. 
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last eleven Christmas Eves:

2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

I wish all of you a Great Christmas and as I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.
 

Oriza L.Legrand - Violette du Czar

Picture: Violette du Czar
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand (c)

Violette du Czar is another re-construction of an old formula from the early 20th century released by venerable perfumehouse Oriza L.Legrand, a which was brought back to business a few years ago.

Violette du Czar starts with a true smell of violet, not artifical, candy sweet, but fresh and natural, as the newly sprung flower in the moisty soil a sunny early day in spring. The violet in this stage reminds me of the violet in Annick Goutal La Violette but without any sweetness. After a while the violetnote steps backwards and the smell of hay contrasted with some light stablenotes appears. In this stage one almost belive the violet has surrendered but soon it steps forward once again together with a flowery irisnote, similar but not quite as vivid to the one in Le Galion Iris. There is also a tangy oldschool soapy Accord,as if there are som citric notes as bergamot present. The soap is very light handed, it's just a touch. The basenotes is balsamic, light woody and with a transparent leathernote, like elegant, long, cream-colored glace gloves accompanying a ball gown. There is something in the overall impression in the this stage thar reminds me of Ramón Monegal Impossible Iris even if the latter is sort of denser and stronger in apperance. When it comes to the transparancy and overall impression of the fragrance, it reminds me of  the texure of Jardins d'Ecrivains La Dame aux Camélias whereas the violet is more present in Violette du Czar, in La Dame... the violet is not as prominent, the orangeblossom is the more distinct flower in the latter.

 Violette du Czar is transparent and light fragrance, the notes  (even the dirty one) are carefully handled and there is a compoistion in the higher octaves of the fragrance notescale. It's refreshing and a perfect elegant daytime fragrance particularly for spring but it's suitable for all seasons when one want something light, refreshing and natural smelling, there is no chemical vibes in this Beautiful fragrance. As Violette du Czar is light it demands generous application. The silage is somewhere betweeen close to medim and longevity for about a day.


Rating: 4
Notes: Violetleaf, violet, violet, iris, heliotrope, tolu balm, russian leather, amber, guaiacwood

The fragrance of Christmas Eve

Picture: Winterroses. 2013 is a warm winter
without (almost) any snow so far.
Photo: Mr Parfumista

Time for the regular Christmas Eve post:. Scent of Christmas Eve 2013 is the retrostyled, furry, herbal, ambery, beauty Quintaesensia created by Ramòn Monegal. I'll review Quintaesencia tomorrow.
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last then Christmas Eves:

2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

I wish all of you a Great Christmas and as I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.

Edit at Christmas Eve: Mr Parfumistas SOTD is the incredible Chypre Mousse from Oriza L.Legrand. A perfect match to this rainy and green Christmas (green lawns and roses outside).

Oriza L. Legrand - Horizon

Picture: Louise Brooks, her flapper style
could serve as the role model of a dark, seductive
"Les Années Folles" fragrance  as Horizon.
Photo: Pressphoto from the
George Grantham Bain Collection,
Wikimedia commons

Horizon, is according to information from the house Oriza L.Legrand unaltered since its creation during "Les Années Folles" in 1925. Probably it smells a bit different anyway, as I suspect most ingredienses not smells exactly the same today, the synthetical ones could be (and are certainly) altered in their composition and even the natural ones could be differently threated today compared to over eighty years ago.

Horizon starts very similar to the hard core patchouli Patchouli Antique by Les Nereides and it has also similarities to Bois 1920 Real Patchouly in the first accords but compared to RP Horizon goes on darker, boozier and stronger where RP developes in a more casual lighter, brighter and slight cedarwoody way, even if good as a balmy woody patchouli fragrance, flat if compared to Horizon. Horizion has much more in common with Patchouli Antique and its damp, dusty, dry, leathery patchouli note - just as old antique leather books in an old wooden bookshelf. There is nothing of the contemporary clean patchouli or the loud hippie-patchouli of the 70s. The similarities with Patchouli Antique are evident during the first half of the fragrance even if PA takes a rough and though route and Horizon gets more refined and sofisticated as it developes. Somewhere in the middlenotes, a cocoaonote appears. The note is present in Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 but more prominent in the latter and also in a more powdery way in Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly. As Horizon dries down, wellbalanced, boozy, tobacco, soft leathery notes and something slightly green appears, accompanying the patchouli in a very pleasant way. Horizion doesn't end in the ambery or musky base which are common alternatives for patcoulifragrances.

Picture: Horizon
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand (c)

Even if Horizion is the patchouli fragrance in the Oriza collection, it's so wellblended/-balanced and therefore doesn't stand out as a basic patchouli as the patch-offerings of many lines. This fragrance has so many other dimensions and therefore it can't be justified to classify Horizon as "just" a patchouli.

Horizon has a great longevity, smooth but unfragmented trails are present after 24h. The fragrance is, despite its rough opening, elegant and seductive, perfect for autumn and winter evenings (and days) but also for cold and crisp early spring evenings. Even if Horizion has an flappery attitude it is genderless to me i e it doesn't lend over either to the masculine or feminine side.

Update August 2014: Wearing Horizon in hot humid weather (ca 30 Celsius) it is even better than in autumn/winter. The tobacconote is really blooming, very natural in style. Even if Horizon is a warm patchouli with ambery notes, it doesn't smells particulary sweet, and has some almost refreshing herbal notes in the heat.The best and most versatile patchouli I have tested so far.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bitter orange rind, mandarin confit, dried rose, ambered cognac, aromatic tobacco leaves, cocoa, roasted almonds, aged oak, patchouli, benzoin, ambergris, peat, blond tobacco, vanilla, honey, leather