The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2023

 

Pic: Christmas 2023
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve (grey outside and daytime temprature ca - 3 C) ice-glaced and just the right volume of snow. I was wearing my Christmas gift from a sample, opened the parcel in the evening: L'Eau Scandaleuse created by breton perfumer Anatole Lebreton. This is one of the very best and intriguing tubereuses according to me. It's a cold, "strip down" tubereuse combined with hints of cosmetic notes, a n impression of something boudoir.-ish. There is also an intriguing sort of slight gasoline-tarry leather in the basenotes.  L'Eau Scandaleuse has been on my radar for years, worn sparingly, using  samples.  When locking at the notes and my impression described above, L'Eau Scandaleuse is great to wear outdoors for exemple walking in the forest in early spring. 

Mr Parfumista  was wearing an old Christmas Eve classic - Knize Ten. It's great for the occasion and it reminds me of that I have yet to try to wear it myself.

Below the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last twenty Christmas Eves: 

2022:  Nuit Etoilée Edt Annick Goutal (pine needles, natural minty with contrasting citric notes)

2021: Tobacco Rose Papillion Artisan Perfumes ( dark red rose, over fresh moss, beewax, juniper)

2020: Rubikona Puredistance (contemporary chypre fresh - earthy and green accord, surounded and contrasted by smooth ,elegant creamy flowers). 

2019: Gold Puredistance (with a beautiful myrrhnote, a sort of smooth resin/sap and a cold (but not freezing) outdoor -in the wood - impression 

2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers) 

2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)

2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody) 

2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals) 

2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote) 

2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy) 

2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+. 

2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals) 

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices) 

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices) 

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense) 

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental) 

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices) 

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note) 

2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers) 

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse) 

As this was published afterwards I hope your Christmas was Great and scented with some beautiful fragrances!

PS For New Years Eve I followed up with the real boudoir scent of the Anatoles I've tested - the ultimate lipstick fragrance Incarnata a dangerous slight furry relative, also with a significant myrrh accord, to the in comparision, well-mannered  Les Exclusifs de Chanel Misia Edp. Mr Parfumista was wearing the nosepleasing Byredo Black Saffron a sucessful blend of rose and saffron ending up in a comforting, creamy, leathery accord.

PPS This year I've also forgotten the Midsummerfragrancepost - a half  of a year  later I can announce it was Les Eaux de Chanel  Paris - Riviera, well suited as it was sunny an quite warm to be a northen Midsummereve.

The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2022

Picture: Christmas 2022, I'm so excited
to receive this Christmas gift - despite It's NOT a perfume
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve (sunny outside and daytime temprature ca - 5) ice-glaced and just a little powdery snow. Inspired from the finnish classic coated mintchocolate pastilles "Avec", cold weather, dark Midwinter nights, snow crystals and conifer , I'm wearing Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilee Edt  from the beautiful blue squarebottle. Pine and Fir with contrasing citrus (orange) and dry minty notes with traces of salty ambregris. A cold impression, yet very comforting a starry night. Somehow Mr Parfumista is  in the same mood, matching the style wearing the modern classic Comme des Garcons Kyoto from the incredible incense-line. Incense, cypress, cedar which creates a pine impression, perfect for Christmas.

Picture: The old AG Nuit Etoilee Edt square
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Below the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last nineteen Christmas Eves: 

2021: Tobacco Rose Papillion Artisan Perfumes ( dark red rose, over fresh moss, beewax, juniper)

2020: Rubikona Puredistance (contemporary chypre fresh - earthy and green accord, surounded and contrasted by smooth ,elegant creamy flowers). 

2019: Gold Puredistance (with a beautiful myrrhnote, a sort of smooth resin/sap and a cold (but not freezing) outdoor -in the wood - impression 

2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers) 

2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)

2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody) 

2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals) 

2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote) 

2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy) 

2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+. 

2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals) 

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices) 

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices) 

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense) 

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental) 

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices) 

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note) 

2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers) 

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse) 

I wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas!

PS This year I've forgotten the Midsummerfragrancepost - a half  of a year  later I can announce it was Pierre Guillaume Animal Mondain which unfold surprisingly well that unusual warm Midsummereve.

The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2021

Picture: Christmas 2021
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve (sunny outside and daytime temprature ca -10) and just a little powdery snow is the comforting Tobacco Rose from Papillion Artisan Perfumes created by the founder of the perfumehouse, Liz Moores. Like a very dark red rose placed over moisty but fresh smelling moss, honeyd - beewax accord, almost cold balsamic notes over slight salty ambregris.  Something smelling like pickled juniperberries is also teasing my nose. Overall Tobacco  Rose is very natural smelling and a suitable scent for cold weather when relaxing indoors. Mr Parfumista is wearing a real classic: Knize Ten with its fascinationg and characteristic  notes of  high quality wool fabric. The youngsters are wearing Chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore EDT respectively no perfume at all.

Below the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last eightteen Christmas Eves: 

2020: Rubikona Puredistance (contemporary chypre fresh - earthy and green accord, surounded and contrasted by smooth ,elegant creamy flowers). 

2019: Gold Puredistance (with a beautiful myrrhnote, a sort of smooth resin/sap and a cold (but not freezing) outdoor -in the wood - impression 

2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers) 

2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)

2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody) 

2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals) 

2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote) 

2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy) 

2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+. 

2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals) 

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices) 

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices) 

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense) 

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental) 

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices) 

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note) 

2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers) 

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse) 

I wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas, stay healthy and safe

The fragrances of Christmas Eve 2019

Picture: From the Christmastree
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve 2019 (grey outside but no rain today, and +5C) is the amazing new Puredistance Gold. A suitable scent for Christmas with the beautiful myrrhnote and it´s cold- outdoor -in the wood - impression. Mr Parfumista is wearing  an incense classic, Comme des Garcons Jaisalmer, a perfect match of incense and smooth hot spices which mingels to a very special band-aid note. 
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last sixtheen Christmas Eves:

2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers)
2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody)
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals)
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

Wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas! 

The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2018

Picture: This years pretty
Christmas tree
before it get dressed up
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve 2018 is Rubj Extrait in honour to it's creator Vero Kern who passed away last week. Vero was so kind, nice  and commited to the art of perfume and I hope that
her unique creations will be continued in production as Vero:s fragrances have to be experienced by
every true parfumista.  As Christmas this year actually is white with snow and  ca - 8 C degrees outside, the glowing, orange, white flowers, light spice of  Rubj  is the perfect warmer.  Yesterday I worn the fab Veroprofumo  Onda Extrait one of the best in the retro genre with its barnyard, soil, damp grass, leather vetiver accord.

Mr Parfumista is wearing  Eau d'Italie Bois d’Ombrie an almost fresh, chilly, woody scent with a pleasant vetiver/whiskey/tobacco/leather accord, inspired of the umbrian forest a rainy day. Eau d'Italie  Sienne l'Hiver would of course have suited even better, but B d'O fit well together with the greenery of the fresh Christmas tree.
 Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last fiftheen Christmas Eves:

2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody)
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals)
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

Wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas! 

Picture: And here it's dressed up
for Christmas Eve
Photo: Parfumista (c)

 

The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2017

Picture: Christmas tree 2017
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve 2017 is the elegant retro and in the same time contemporary austere flowery-green Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford.  Suits a green Christmas very well I think. It's more like a partial sunny autumnday outside.

Mr Parfumista is wearing Incense Extreme by Andy Tauer. A light "white" incense swirling to the sky even if intense in performance. Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last fourteen Christmas Eves:

2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody)
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals)
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

Let's have a Great Fragrant Christmas! 

The fragrances of Christmas Eve 2016

Picture: Berliner Junge vom Weihnachtsmarkt, um 1890
Watercolor of Franz Skarbina (1849-1910)
Wikimedia commons
(I found this young Berliner when searching for a
 picture for the Christmaspost.
This sad year of terror,  this picture  will
remind us of the victims.)

Once again time for the regular Christmas Eve post: The Scent of Christmas Eve 2016 is the luxerious  Oud Sublime by Parfums de Nicolaï which is descibed in the former entry of the blog. A good alternative to this is a high quality blend is Parfums de Nicolaï Incense Oud. Both fragrances are sort of "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody with the delightful typical for Nicolaï dry, chalky element. Suits this green, warm, a bit sunny and windy Christmas Eve perfect.

Mr Parfumista is breaking his habit wearing Santos de Cartier vintage version for Christmas Eve. SOTD is an excellent  masculine release from this year: Téo Cabanel  Kasar light spicy, especially cinnamon, leathery accords with a touch of a floral note like carnation/clove. A choice when regarded, in style is close to a contemporary interpretation of Santos; leather and cinnamon   Will be reviewed in 2017. Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last thirteen Christmas Eves:


2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals)

2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)



I wish all of you a Great Christmas! As I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.

The scent for Christmas Eve 2015

Picture: It's almost the same temprature (+6 C)
this Christmas Eve as Midsummer Eve 2015 (+10 C).
Therefore this lush summer rose is illustrating this post.
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Once again time for the regular Christmas Eve post:. Scent of Christmas Eve 2015 is a stunning rose - Rose de Taif Extrait by Perris Monte Carlo. This is a high quality fragrance as also the Rose de Taif Edp.

Suits this green, warm Christmas Eve with some sun outside. This beautiful rose is enlightened by subtle spices and a smooth rubbery note from the roseoil. It's just delightful, a sort of thicker and stronger variation of the Edp version. Wearing it feels like rolling around in fresh, just harvested, medium pink rosepetals a warm and sunny day. 

Mr Parfumistas SOTD is Santos de Cartier vintage version, suits well with its spicy, leathery accords.     Last year, also a green Christmas, he wore the same fragrance. Wearing this classic is a recurring habit for Mr Parfumista for Christmas Eves as it has happened for several times.
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last twelve Christmas Eves:

2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote)
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

I wish all of you a Great Christmas! As I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.

Fragrances for Christmas 2015 2(2) - Nichefragrances

In the second post about fragrances which could attract especially in Christmastime some appropriate gems from the niche segment will be commented.

Picture: Un Crime Exotique
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)

Un Crime Exotique (Parfumerie Générale): This is similar to the traditional sweet mulled wine called Glögg which swedes are drinking the in Advent and during the Christmas holiday. Un Crime Exotique is not as sweet as Glögg, the fragrance smells like Glögg mixed with an refreshing the like for example Oolong.

Picture: Loretta
Photo: PR Tableau de Parfums (c)

Loretta (Tableau de Parfums): A dark fruity, spicy, slight dirty, animalic tuberose which compared to for example Marc Jacobs Decadence really is decadent. A fragrance in the classic dark, style of Rochas Femme. One of Andy Tauers best fragrances IMO.

Picture: Mon Numero 10
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Mon Numero 10 (L'Artisan Parfumeur): This one is a sort of merged fragrance with traces from Christmas appropriate classics as Fendi (original), Coco (Chanel) and also Un Crime Exotique (above) + some incense. Embracing and comforting to wear in cold and grey weather.

Picture: M.O.U.S.S.E
Photo: PR Oliver & Co (c)

M.O.U.S.S.E (Oliver & Co): This is the most similar fragrance to mimic real clove that I've tested so far. A sort of fresh, airy but in the same time intense, almost cold, spicy fragrance. Some incense also seems to be involved in a supporting role.

Picture: Wazamba (new bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Wazamba (Parfum d'Empire): A warm, a bit sweet and spicy incense, not the traditional cold, midnight mass churchy type as Comme des Garcons Avignon which is also a beautiful fragrance suitable for Christmas.

Fragrances for Christmas 2015 1(2) - Designerfragrances/classics

Christmas is upcoming, in a few weeks it's here. Up here in the north the temprature is mild for the season about 6-8 C, and the residues of two storms namend "Gorm" and "Helga" makes it windy outside. Maybe because of this my inspiration is not on top when it comes to Christmasoriented fragrances, anyway here is an attempt when it comes to the designerfragrance/classic category ie the ones that are fairly available in departmentstores, parfumeries and on line. In the next post (on Thursday) there will be some suitable fragrances from the nichesector.

Picture: Burberry London Men
Photo: PR Burberry (c)

Burberry London Men: This is an underappreciated dark gem, with a subdued dark, velvety red sparkle. Highlights warm tobacco and boozy, woody, slight spicy and leathery notes. Very comforting like sipping brandy by the fireplace one of the Christmas evenings. If released today Burberry London probably would appear in niche.

Picture: Opium
Photo: PR Yves Saint Laurent (c)

Opium (Yves Saint Laurent): I like both the vintage and the current very much. The current version is more woody and with less carnation and I think its a good reworking of the original. Warm, thick, woody, spicy and dark flowery Opium is a winner for cold and grey days and dark evenings.

Picture: Decadance
Photo: PR Marc Jacobs (c)

Decadance (Marc Jacobs): This plummy, ambery dark woody floral fragrance is to me somehow the 2010s decade interpretation of 1985 Dior Poison. Thirty years later, Decadance intermediate the same feeling in a contemporary setting.

Picture: Dioressence
Photo: PR Christian Dior (c)

Dioressence (Christian Dior): Like sparkling rosewood with green and spicy elements, especially cinnamon over a base with both balsamic and mossy elements. A classic especially suitable for daytime during Christmas.

Picture: Chanel No 19 Edp
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

No 19 EDP (Chanel): The Edp version of the green, galbanumladen Edt higlights more of the flowery elements. There is a cool, fresh mix of itis and rose resembling a crispy hyacinth  over a green mossy light leathery base. Refreshing stuff relatively the heavy scents of Christmas.

My Christmas Eve fragrance

Picture: A winterrose. Also this year Christamas
is green and some roses are almost blooming.
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Time for the regular Christmas Eve post:. Scent of Christmas Eve 2014 is my favourite iris - Impossible Iris from Ramon Monegal. Suits this green, sunny and, after some rainy weeks, cold Christmas Eve. The chilly iris is enlightened by mimosa and rasberry which gives the formal iris an less severe expression. Mr Parfumistas SOTD is an old Classic, Santos de Cartier vintage version, suits well with its light note of  cinnamon.  Last year, also a green Christmas, was Chypre Mousse from Oriza L.Legrand. 
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last eleven Christmas Eves:

2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy)
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

I wish all of you a Great Christmas and as I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.
 

Fragranceshopping for Christmas (and beyond) 2014

Picture: Julaftonen/Christmas Eve 1904
Watercolor by Carl Larsson (1853-1919)
Wikimedia commons

Soon Christmas is here and hopefully there is some time for perfumetesting during the holidays. Here comes some inspiration when it comes to perfumeshopping not just for the holidays but most of all also in the long term.

• Just as last year: First of all I'll recommend the beautiful perfumes I have tested and reviewed this year. Remember: All are good regardless rating. The rating reflects my personal impression when testing the fragrance, my 3 rated could be your 5.
• From the perfumes reviewed so far 2014, I'm when thinking back most found of: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Féminin Pluriel an eternal beauty, My Burberry from Burberry, a contemporary, urban interpretation of the same theme as Féminin Pluriel. Boucheron Place Vendôme Edp is another mainstream fragrance which, just as My Burberry made an unexpectedly positive impression. Parfumerie Générale Isparta a transparent, purple rose which I think havn't got as much attention as it should have in the blogosphere, Rose Ishtar an intriguing and  unconventional, herbal non-sweet rose, Eau d'Italie Un Bateau pour Capri  contemporary but in the same time retro. When into roses, I'm a roselover after all, Rozy Voile d'Extrait is a beautiful dark, balsamic rose. Another good balsamic fragrance, with winey and myrrh-incense notes which I discovered this year is Olivier Durbano Lapis Philosophorum. The fleeting jasmine-tea of By Kilian Imperial Tea  is another nice finding from 2014 in the lighter fragdivision and so is the new first non-Mona from Mona di Orio, the somehow refreshing and calming Myrrh Casati.
• Lately I've discovered two very good houses, new to my nose, the revived house of  Le Galion and the since many years established Maison Nicolas de Barry. This findings thanks to the sample service from Fragrance & Art, IMO the best retailer in Sweden when it comes to carry a well compsed varity of nichefragrances, many of them very rare. Reviews of fragrances from these lines will start with one from each line before Christmas and further reviewing is planned to the first half of 2015.
• Samples from one of my favorite houses, Oriza L.Legrand just arrived, in a lovely little green retrobox with a motif on the lid inspired from the 1910s. I'll review one of the new ones before Christmas and the other are planned to follow in 2015. Sniffing outside the untested vials, my impression is I'll not be dissapointed. A great Christmas gift is the Oriza sampleset with 7x2ml spray vials of choice for EUR 20.
• Another perfume grabbing my attention at the moment (reviewed early in 2013) is the beautiful cold incense, lily, fir Relique D'Amour from the above mentioned Oriza L.Legrand. The more I try it, the more I like it and now I've drained my first sample and have just one sample left.... A perfume for those who like L'Artisan Passage d'Enfer this is great stuff.
• When it comes to repacking, last year Parfums Annick Goutal was the issue here in the "shopping for Christmas post". This year it's Parfum d'Empire which has changed the bottle design and of course, raised the price. But there are still bargins avaible, Fragrance & Art have some in the old bottle left.
• As a sidenote about the before mentioned Annick Goutal at least one of the discontinued gems soon was brought back in the assortment, but I don't know if it depends of the customer compliants or not. In the new bottle of course and I don't know if the formula has changed: Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille, the best Goutal so far IMO. The Edp-version of  Un Matin d'Orage Edp launched in 2014 is also a very good perfume.
• A package of samples is an intriguing Christmas gift to most people. If you don't have the time and patience to decant yourself, Fragrance & Art and Riktig Parfym could support.

The fragrance of Christmas Eve

Picture: Winterroses. 2013 is a warm winter
without (almost) any snow so far.
Photo: Mr Parfumista

Time for the regular Christmas Eve post:. Scent of Christmas Eve 2013 is the retrostyled, furry, herbal, ambery, beauty Quintaesensia created by Ramòn Monegal. I'll review Quintaesencia tomorrow.
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last then Christmas Eves:

2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

I wish all of you a Great Christmas and as I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.

Edit at Christmas Eve: Mr Parfumistas SOTD is the incredible Chypre Mousse from Oriza L.Legrand. A perfect match to this rainy and green Christmas (green lawns and roses outside).

Perfumeshopping for Christmas

 Picture: Merry Old Santa Claus, 1 January 1881

in Harper's Weekly, Wikimedia Commons

I'm fully aware that an entry with the theme "advices for Christmasshopping" could be endless. Therefore I try to restrict, limit and structure it in some bullet points:

• All the beautiful perfumes that I have reviewed during the year (and the years before). Have in mind that all perfumes rated from 3 up to 5 have in common that they are all good perfumes. The final rating is in the nose of the wearer, ie my 3 rated perfume could be your 5 rated. Some favorite fragrances when looking back on the testings of 2012 (so far): Balmain Ivoire, Puredistance Opardu, Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris and Umbra, Robert Piguet Bois Noir and Mademoiselle Piguet, Chanel Coco Noir, Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre, Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin , Huitième Art Poudre de Riz, Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilée, Vero Kern Kiki Edp, ByKilian Ambre Oud, Amouage Opus VI., Carner Barcelona D600, Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Rose Etoile d'Hollande, Histoires de Parfums 1876 Mata Hari, Parfumerie Generale Corpes et Ames Eau de Toilette Apaisante, Frapin Speakeasy. This first bulletpoint was of course almost endless :-)
• For safety reasons: Chanel No 5 in all, or the favorite cocntentration. If the information provided during this autumn from the perfume master Octavian at 1000 Fragrances is correct, there will be no recognizable No 5 when the batches maufactured before June 30, 2013 ar sold out. This as the EU legislation,or IFRA selfregulation or both, will be significantly thougher after this date. And if this will not come into force, the person gifted (or yourself) are the lucky owner to a true and timeless classic.
• And of course, my usual nagging about to enjoy the easy to buy classics from different categories in the ordinary perfumeshop: For example: Boucheron (signature), Chanel No 19 Edt and Edp, Guerlain Shalimar, Lanvin Arpége, YSL Rive Gauche, Prada Infusion d'Iris Edp, Thierry Mugler Angel and Alien, Dior Poison (and flankers) and Dune,  Oscar de la Renta Esprit d'Oscar are all good fragrances, easy to catch.
• To attract someone to the perfumeaddiction: Gift with samples or decant-sets. First I'm a bit local:  A very good and reaible source for samples and decants, especially when it comes to the ELDO line (also carrying full bottles) is Riktig Parfym (Real Perfume). Fragrance & Art is another very good swedish E-tailer. F&A provides samples of all the fragrances sold. Well-stocked Aus Liebe zum Duft also provides samples of the perfumes in their assortment.The samples are almost always in spray and contains highly enough to provide sufficient testing.
• Discovery or samplesets as from Puredistance, Mona di Orio, Parfums MDCI and affordable high quality perfume in basic30 ml bottles from Parfums de Nicolaï.
• If investing in for example a rare Chanel or Guerlain, the Belgian Perfumeheaven Place Vendome is the real expertise to consult. Excellent and rapid customerservice.