Histoires de Parfums - 1969 Parfum de Revolte

Picture: "Riverbank of Peach Blossoms (portion)", ink and colors on paper,

1642 - 1707, located at Metropolitan Museum of Art, Wikimedia commons

From a perfume named 1969 Parfum de Revolte one routinely expect a blend with a dominant patchouli, maybe something as Reminiscence Patchouli or the airier Etro-version Patchouly. The 1969 Parfum de Revolte, created by the houses founder the perfumer Gerald Ghislain is anyting but this: Parfume de Revolte is a fruity, slight floral dessert-like gourmand creation, and there is indeed some patchouli very well blended among the ingredients.

1969 Parfum de Revolte starts with a wonderful peachy, rosy accord supported by a note that I percieve as freesia, which is not mentioned among the notes. The peachy note is somehow not especially sweet, it's not jammy instead it's more like the fresh ripe fruit. The peach note is present during the whole dry down but reduces in extent in the middle- and basenotes.There is also an  indefinite almost dense flower-iness which complements the peach very well. In the middle/base a patchouli which highlights the dark chocolate aspect of the note shines through. But the patchoulinote is cleverly interwowen in the blend as it never takes over the fragrance, just supports with it's darkness. In this stage some soft spices and a dark coffenote also appears, perfectly matching the patch. Everything is backed up by a soft musk. In the late middlennotes/early basenotes there is an accord as I percive as true aldehydic, there is something in common, not exactly in smell but in appearance, with Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

1969 Parfum de Revolte is another beautiful and artful composition from the quality house of HdP. This is not the ordinary, screechy, chemical, fruity-floral, this is a delightful, credible fruitiness. It's an unsual blend and I for once have hard to find other scents that I think it resembles. The opening peach have some similarities with Parfums MDCI Peche Cardinal despite PC also has a plumnote in it's top and I percieve 1969 as a cleaner peach but not as airy as the springlike By Kilian Flower of Immortality.

1969 Parfum de Revolte is a good fragrance for evening but I also think it's proper to wear at daytime during the cold and grey months in fall and winter. The fragrance has a great longevity and remains almost unfragmented until the next morning.

Rating: 5

Notes: Peach, rose, white flowers, caramon, clove, patchouli, coffe, chocolate, musk

Carner Barcelona - Latin Lover (Floral Collection)

Picture: Latin Lover
Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c)

For summer 2017 catalonian nichehouse Carner Barcelona introduces the Floral Collection which is in the opposite style compared to the excellent Black Collection of last year. The Floral Collection presented in stylish white bottles vs the Black Collection in stylish black ones. First out for test from the florals is the wristsniffer Latin Lover created by perfumer Jordy Fernandez.

Latin Lover strats with a burst of beautiful a tad watery flowers, dominated by magnolia sweetened by ylang-ylang. Magnolia usually is a bit tricky note for me as it could be almost harsh and sour to my nose. But balancing with ylang-ylang obviously is the trick, the magnolia blooms beautiful. Later on a clean, flowery jasmine and a detactable also flowery (not powdery lipsticknote), violet steps forward and add a certain elegance to the perfume. The bouquet is grounded in a just enough musky base with some contrasting, almost dark, a bit moisty, earthy elemets, probably the patchouli. The dark of Latin Lover is like sitting in the shadow of a pinetree near the sea a hot summerday. There is something familiar with Latin Lover and after a days wearing I know: It smells similar to Lalique Edp by Lalique but less sweet and fruity. Other fragrances I come to think of (even if not smelling the same but the same feeling/style) when wearing Latin Lover are Puredistance WHITE, By Kilian Water Calligraphy and Amouage Honour Woman.

Latin Lover is a happy fragrance which is a pleasure to wear, perfect for a mediterranean summerevening or just to cheer up a summerday which is spent in the office. The longevity is for at least a day and sillage is medium. Classified as unisex but to my nose lending to the feminine side. After my acquaintance with Latin Lover I have high hopes for the other two in the Floral Collection, Besos and Sweet William. Reviews will follow.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, ylang-ylang, violet, jasmine sambac, narcissus, benzoin, patchouli, musk

Perris Monte Carlo - Santal du Pacifque EDP & Extrait

Picture: Staute of Ganesha in sandalwood
Photo by Ricce
Wikimedia commons 

The Santal du Pacifque duo (Edp & Extrait) was released 2016 together with the Absolue d'Osmanthus duo from monegasque perfumhouse Perris Monte Carlo. Both are a part of a range of perfumes which presents  "singlenotes" in different settings and interpretations. Here is my previous reviews of the line.

Picture: Santal du Pacifique EDP
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Santal du Pacifique starts with a warm, sparkling, transparent sandalwood. with a prominent fignote. I think fig is a part of sandalwood as it's present also in for example By Kilian Sacred Wood  which is the sandalwood fragrance which is most similar to Santal du Pacifique from what I come to think of when wearing Santal du Pacifique especially in the Edp concentration. The Edp concentration is woodier and denser than the Extrait which emphasizes the flowery and light spicy aspects of sandalwood. Both versions lacks the cocoa accent which is present in sandalwoodfragranceas as Sacred Wood and Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule and are therefore lighter in apperance. The Edp is deeper, warm, smooth woody as one can imagine the scent of a piece of polished sandalwood in the sunset, warmed by the sun during the day. There are also darker, a bit pleasant dirty barnyardnotes glimpsing from the depts of the Edp contrasting the fresh sandalwood. In the later stages the SdP Edp reminds me lot of Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Edt but less green.As the latter has sandalwood as a prominent note beside the vetiver, that's not surprising especially as both fragrances has the similar tonality on the fragrance notescale. When it comes to the Extrait this version,as mentioned above, is more of a arier, soft woody floral with some warm dry salty, spicy elements. In the middlenotes there are also contrasting notes of a damp vegetation, in the same good way as the barnyardnotes in the Edp. A hint of the figgy note persist duting the whole dry down of the Extrait and contributes to a seaish impression and the overall impression is that the Extrait has some similarities with Hermès Epice Marine even if less spicy.

Picture: Santal du Pacifique Extrait
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Santal du Pacifique is a versatile, casual elegant and comforting fragrace which could be worn year around. It's unisex even if the Edp probably will attract men more as it's less flowery and more woody. The Edp has medium sillage and the Extrait is close. Longevity for the Edp is over 12h and the Extrait almost for a day.
A clean and pared down contemporary sandalwood which smells natural and not of perfumery.

Rating: 5

Notes: Sandalwood, floral notes

Burberry - My Burberry Black

Picture: My Burberry Black
Photo: PR Burberry (c)

In mainstream, during the years, I have discovered that I have a soft spot for fragrances from Burberry, both Burberry Body and My Burberry caught my interest and Burberry London for Men is already classic in my book. When a nice colleauge supported me with a sample of the new My Burberry Black I was intrigued at once, wearing the fragrance two days in a row which is unusual when it comes to me. Just as My Burberry, My Burberry Black is created by Francis Kurkdjian.

My Burberry Black starts almost repellent with a thick, flowery, fruity accord, a sort of a syrupy version of a nightblooming slight animalic jasmine. The fragrance then lightens, the thickness disappears but some of the syrupy texture remains and in this stage My Burberry Black reminds me of Chanel Allure Edp. Then a peachy, candided, ambery rose accord appears, balanced by a dark, clean patchouli in the contemporary minimalistic style. There is something in the feeling/texture of sweet candided flowers which reminds me of By Kilian Voulez-vous coucher avec Moi? not the similar smell but the style and feeling even if the Kilian is more polite and discrete. The Burberry in comparison, is big, almost in your face, as contemporary version of a 1980s fragrance, for example Lancome Trèsor, a fragrance which My Burberry Black has similarities to when it comes to the ambery treatment of the rose.

Wearing My Burberry Black is like walking home late through the city a dark, rainy and cold night in the autumn. A wet asphalt note mingled by exhaust fumes from the cars is opposing the gourmand candided sweet flowers and reduces the sweetness and creates an intriguing backdrop to the fragrance. The asphalt/fume accord is also present in the daytime urban floral My Burberry but in My Burberry black it's heavier, darker and moistier.

Picture: My Burberry Black
Photo: PR Burberry (c)

My Burberry Black is the perfect fragrance for evenings but also for daytime when it's grey, cold and rainy outside. It's very feminine, strong (be careful to not overdose) the sillage is big and longevity on skin excellent, over 24h. An intresting and well made representative of contemporary mainstrem with retro (1980s) vibes.

Rating: 5

Notes: Jasmine, candided roses, peach, amber, patchouli

5 fragrances for the the height of summer

Picture: A stroll on the beach (1896)
Painting by Michael Ancher (1849-1927)
Wikimedia commons

The height of the summer is here and here are also five summer favorites 2016:

Aqua Sextius (Jul et Mad): So refreshing with its lime notes and watery texture. Green, wet, minty leaves and a dry woody-figgy accord, Aqua Sextius is perfect for a warm and sunny summerday. Excellent longevity even in high tempratures.

Un Jardin sur le Toit (Hermès):  Ripe fruits, greenery, damp soil and compost in an urban context, there is also a light touch of something that smells like the exhaust in the city air a warm summer day. UJslT is a comfortable fragrance, a fragrance to reach for days when I'm in a hurry and don't know what yo wear.

Eau Parfumee au The Bleu (Bulgari): This cologne really feels blue, the fersh, tea-ish structure of  the classic The Vert with lavender and iris. Hearbal, cool, earthy, combined with some elemets that slightly reminds me of Prada Infusion d'Iris which is no coincidence as the perfumer of both fragrances is Daniela Andrier.

Eau Parfumee au The Noir (Bulgari): This refreshing, leathery beauty could easily be a niche fragrance. Dry with smoky nuances but tea is not as detectable as in the other tea fragrances from Bvlgari. Probably the tea creates some of the smoky vibes and is the factor that lightens up the fragrance. Normally ingredients like in The Noir creates a ticker and heavier texture.

Imperial Tea (By Kilian): From the dark black tea to the regal white jasmine tea from Kilian. Clean and minimalistic, smelling just like a pot of fresh brewed jasmine tea. Very refreshing and easy to wear in summer.

I'm taking a summer break from blogging until August. Wish you a great summer!

Annick Goutal - Les Absolus 1001 Ouds

Picture: Enjoying Coffee, Oueen Shirin of Persia (d 628)
Painter from the french school,
 first half of the 18th century
Wikimedia commons

1001 Ouds is the third fragrance in the Les Absolus line from Annick Goutal. It's created by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal.1001 Ouds is inspired from the tales of the Arabian Nights.

1001 Ouds strarts with an smooth dry but in the same time creamy accord. The first impression of the fragrance is very original to me, it smells as something I'll describe as a creamy juniperberry. There is none of the sharpness from the usual interpretation of that note, just the woody-herbal character of the berry smoothened to a soft, fluffy texture. As there is no juniperberry among the notes I suppose it's the oud mixed with the birch, papyrus and rose which creates this inmpression, I can recognize this juniperberry like oud note from By Kilian Pure Oud where it's stronger and raw in its interpretation. As the dry down is approaching, the beautiful creamy, medium red rose, steps forward, fleeting in the fluffy but in the same time dry setting. The rose note slightly reminds me of the juicy rose in Le Galion La Rose, but not as big and radiating. There is a contrasting chilly aspect which is dry a bit like paper, probably the papyrus, combined with a soft, very light boozy almost applelike note, probably the myrrh, which has similarities with an accord in the great masculine Royal Vintage from M.Micallef. 1001 Ouds also feels royal, but it's to my nose is a feminne royalty.

As 1001 Oud dries down it becomes woodier and rosier but still preserves its excellent smoothness, it's a real comfort to wear this fragrance. It has not so much to do with the regular ouds, here the oud is one of the components interacting and not dominating over the other ingredients. This is not a "statementperfume" like many in the oud genre, this is pure, soft elegance. Maybe the name should be another as the many oudhaters which seems to be out there, at least in the perfumeforums could be scared away. But those should not fear, it's better to think of this as a woody oriental perfume and don't think of it as an oud. On the other hand I think the name is good as this perfume reveals that oud is an excellent ingredient and it could be presented in many shapes.

1001 Ouds is suitable to wear around the year, it has nuances that fit each season. The sillage is close and the longevity is for a day. A discrete, high quality fragrance, safe to wear in any occasion. Another winner from Annick Goutal and one of the best releases in 2015 IMO.

Rating: 5

Notes: Oud, papyrus, rose, pimento, birch, guaiac wood, myrrh

Les Cocottes de Paris - La Belle Otero

Picture: Agustina Otero Iglesias (1868-1965)
"La Belle Otero"
Photo: PR Les Cocottes de Paris (c)

Les Cocottes de Paris is a brand started by Anaïs Biguine who also started the Jardins d'Ecrivains brand, inspired by litterature and gardens, some years ago. In the new brand, the inspiration comes from some famous nineteenth century courtesans who were active in the french capital. La Belle Otero is the first of three fragrances to be tested, inspired of a spanish artist, Agustina Otero Iglesias, who is said to have "devoted her life to dancing, men, precious stones, gambling, parties and all above freedom". The fragrance is said to be an invitation to misbehave and I can agree with that when testing La Belle Otero.

La Belle Otero starts sharp, fruity, boozy, chemical, almost as something that could be a sweet fruity floral celebrity fragrance but less sugary. Than the fragrance becomes more flowery, the violet accentuated by a crispy narcissus takes the center. There is almost a lipsticknote present but without the characteristic powdery-creamy smell that is the lipstick standard. The fruity note is still present in the basenotes, balanced by sandalwood and with musk which reinforces the blend. There is something vaugly dirty and decadant glimpsing through the floral-fruity facade, like dirty underwear hiding under a brand new amazing haute couture gown.

Picture: La Belle Otero
Photo: PR Les Cocottes de Paris (c)

Strong syntetical violet and narcissus over a light sandalwood infused by fizzy. musky, fruity elements is the synthesis of La Belle Otero. It's a demanding fragrance with rough edeges but in the same time a somehow pleasant fragrance to wear. It's a dangeroues fruity floral, something dark and beastly are lurking in the background. I think the syntetic smell is a bit too much in La Belle Otero but leaving that a aside, this is a intriguing and in the same time happy and taken as a whole, nice to wear fragrance.

Those who likes fragrances as Rober Piguet Jeunesse, Eau d'Italie Graine de Joie, Parfums MDCI Cio Cio San and By Kilian Playing with the Devil (which is much darker) could probably appreciate La Belle Otero.

Rating: 3

Notes: Neroli, pepper, absinthe, ginger, fig, violet, musk, lavender, narcissus, buchu, lavender, iris, frankincense, sandalwood 

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

By Kilian - Voulez-vous coucher avec Moi ?

Picture: Volez-vous coucher avec Moi? - The Perfume
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

Voulez-vous coucher avec Moi? (VvcaM?) the latest By Kilian for the new sub line (A Night) In the Garden of Good and Evil, "which draws inspiration from dark nights and exciting game of seduction".The fragrance is created by perfumer Alberto Morillas and described as a gardenia centered perfume over a smooth sandalwood.

VvcaM? starts light flowery, and is a bit tart. The flowers are white with shades of purple, the petals are cold and crispy. The first fragrance I come to think of when testing VvcaM? is Lanvin Eclat d'Arpege even if that one has a lilac themre. A light, smooth, woody accord balances the flower and as also a discrete almost fluffy vanilla. The vanilla is the earlier stages is of the down light, angelic kind as in Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk but not at all as present as in the latter. In the basenotes the vanilla is combined with cedarwood.and I can trace similarities with the base of Chanel Allure Edp. These darker nuances creates dept and character to the fragrance. VvcaM? is not especially sweet and it's also not powdery. It's a fine, clean (but not at all chemical clean) unobtrusive floral which, has little in common with the daring name of the creation. Maybe Kilian follows in the fotsteps of the latest Serge Lutens fragrances with challening namnes which are more or less the opposite to the real impression from the fragrance. Speaking of Lutens, VvcaM? has similarities to Serge Lutens La Religieuse in its smooth, dark, discrete, flowery image.

Picture: Volez-vous coucher avec Moi? - The clutch
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

VvcaM? is quite linear even if it gets darker and even if not exactly warm it's absolutely no longer cold in the basenotes. It's a very pleasant, sort of calming fragrance to wear, nothing loud, shrilly or extreme. The more I wear VvcaM?, the more I like it. Just as with La Religiuese this is a fragrance which doesn't unfolds directly, one has to be patient to tune in with this one. A contemporary, floral classic which IMO is very feminine in style.

VvcaM? despite its elegant aura, is easy and comforting to wear. It could be worn anytime of the year and for most occassions except for exercise and similar activites. Sillage is close and longevity almost for a day.

Those who appreciate Puredistance Opardu, even if that one is a bit powdery and with a lilac note, as also Ann Gerard Perle de Mousse with its almost shadowy impression with tart and moisty notes

Rating: 4

Notes: Neroli, gardenia, tuberose, ylang ylang, petalia, rose, sandalwood, cedarwood,  vanilla

Blog anniversary 9 years today

Picture: Autumn roses
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Time flies, it doesn't feel that long since I wrote the last anniversary post, that for the eight years anniversary of the blog.

At the moment I crave some wonderful fragrances from the house of Perris Monte Carlo, reviews will start soon and are planned to be running during the winter. I have also some intriguing samples waiting for test from one of the very best online nicheperfumeshops Fragrance & Art which carries some unusual fragrancelines. Also a sample of the new By Kilian is on its way from Paris.

When it comes to the fragrances worn during weekdays i.e when not much testing going on I can't see any particular trend. It's everything from the heavy YSL Opium to the light Annick Goutal Les Colognes Eau d'Hadrien, maybe this broad variety mirrors the relatively mild weather this autumn, with only a few colder days until now.

And now, lets go for the decade :-)

Parfum d'Empire - Osmanthus Interdite

Picture: The northwest corner of the Forbidden City, Beijing, China
Photo: Attribution Charlie Fong, (cc), some rights reserved,
 Wikimedia.com

Osmanthus Interdite by Parfum d'Empire is a fragrance inspirerd from the scents and overall impressions from the imperial gardens in the Forbidden City in Beijing. Like all the high quality Parfum d'Empire fragrances, Osmanthus Interdite is created by the Parfum d'Empire founder,  IPSICA perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. The review is made from a sample from the latest edition of Osmanthus Intedite, the version in the new bottledesign.

Osmanthus Interdite is fresh, floral, dry chalky fruity matched with light, white tea notes. There is also some deep, almost dark passages, as shadows from the bushes besids the ponds a sunny afternoon in the palace garden. Smooth and very well balanced accents of the osmanthus flower like soft deep apricot, velvety leather as suede and dry fresh haynotes create a sofisticated, pleasant aura around the wearer. The tea notes are smooth without any harsh edges. In the base of Osmanthus Interdite, a pleasant chalky note steps forward, adding a deeper layer to the fragrance. In texture Osmanthus Interdite reminds me of a feather light, almost transparant cashmere shawl worn over an elegant, white, casual chic outfit. Some how Osmanthus Interdite has a calming and meditative effect, it's a relaxing fragrance to wear. Fragrances with the same relaxing and elegant, white aura that comes to my mind (even if not smelling the same) when wearing Osmanthus Interdite is By Kilian Water Calligraphy, Imperial Tea and Bamboo Harmony as also Dior Homme Cologne 2013 version.

Picture: Osmanthus Interdite, new bottle
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Osmanthus Interdite is quite linear in constuction, with its accords flowing back and forth during the dry down of the fragrance. It's discrete with a close sillage, with good longevity, about a day. It's the perfect office fragrance for spring, summer, early autumn but could be worn in any season. As I remember the previous version in the old bottle, I can't detect any differences, probably there is no reformulation in connection with the switch in bottledesign.

Osmanthus Interdite is the osmanthus fragrance that I've experienced so far and I also think it's one of the best tea fragrances on the market.

Rating: 5

Notes: Osmanthus, green tea, apricot, jasmin, rose, fruit, musk, suede

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Carner Barcelona - Palo Santo

Picture: Palo Santo (Bursera graveolens)
Photo by Haplochromis (cc) some rights
reserved, Wikimedia.com 

Palo Santo is the latest creation of Barcelona based perfume house Carner Barcelona. Palo Santo means holy wood, grows in South America, is related to frankincense, myrrh, copal and is burned as incensesticks. Palo Santo in Catalan is also a fruit, persimmons.

I don't know who the perfumer is which has created Palo Santo, anyway the fragrance starts with the comfortable, likable, gourmand, light sweet-spicy accord which characterize the house of Carner. In Palo Santo rum and a sweet, herbal accord, soon complemented with a smoky vetiver opens the fragrance. The opening and to some extent (se below) reminds me of a gentler and smoother version of Parfumerie Générale Querelle. Palo Santo behaves different in the middlenotes in different wearings. The smoky, a bit sweet vetiver is the dominating accord once I wear it, in another wearing the vetiver is gentler and a green, slight herbal, fizzy accord appears and creates an impression of green, burning incense. When Palo Santo reaches the basenotes it becomes sweeter, it's like smoky slight caramelized vetiver. This first stage of the base reminds me of another great Parfumerie Générale creation; Cédre Sandarque but in a lighter and less extreme form. The more Palo Santo dries down in the basenotes, the more vanilla steps forward and it morph to a nice vanilla supported with the smoky vetiver as a contrast.

Picture: Palo Santo
Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c)

Palo Santo is a good everyday perfume for the colder months, it's a bit too heavy and sweet for summer, except cold, rainy summerevenings. Palo Santo is strong and has to be applied sparingly, if not it becomes almost cloying. The sillage is medium and longevity for more than a day.

As mentioned above, Paolo Santo has a special contemporary gourmand aura typical for the houses fragrances at least from Rima XI and El Born. The sweet, spicy gourmand vibe was not as present in the first three fragrances of the house, D600, Tardes and Cuirs. Of the three fragrances of later years, El Born is definitely my favorite not just in smell, I also find it in a better harmony on skin than Palo Santo.

Even if not smelling similar there are some similarities that makes me think that those who like By Kilian Light My Fire  with its sweet vetiver touch also would appreciate Palo Santo.

Rating: 4

Notes: Artemisia, rum, milk, guaiac wood, tonka bean, vetiver, vanilla, sandalwood.

Parfums MDCI - Cio Cio San

Picture: Poster for Madama Butterfly by Giacomo Puccini,
Author: Alberto Hohenstein (1854-1928), Wikimedia commons

Cio Cio San is the latest addition to the high quality Parfums MDCI line. Just as the intriguing Nuit de Andalouse from 2013, Cio Cio San is created by one of the brightest shining stars on the perfume heaven in the latest years: Cecile Zarokian. Cecile seems to have good hand (and nose) with oriental styled parfumes, she has created some of my favorites in the genre; Masque Tango, Laboratorio Olfattivo Kashnoir and Amouage Epic Woman.

Cio Cio San is also oriental styled but a floral oriental with intriguing, supporting fruity notes which are lightened up with skillfull handled teanotes which are note sharp or chemical at all. Cio Cio San starts sparkling with pink, lush floral notes, accentuated with fruits, with litchi as the leading star. I can't say that I can distinguish the cherry blossoms but I suppose they are involved in the sparkling, pink flowery opening.
From the very beginning Cio Cio San reminds me of a sort of reversed and less sweet Graine de Joie from Eau d'Italie. Where the fruits are the protagonists, supported by flowers in Graine de Joie, the flowers takes the central position in Cio Cio San even if distinctly supported by the fruits. Soon also deeper nuances appears in Cio Cio San which shows a wider spectrum of accords than in Graine de Joie. After a whlie a dark, rubbery note, similar to the rubber note of rose oil appears and as rose isn't mentioned I guess it comes from the peony. There is also a light glimpse of a fresh almost petrollike note in this stage. Soon also a dark woody note appears, it's similar to a light touch of oud (also not mentioned among the notes) and there is also something almost boozy lurking in the woody musky depths of Cio Cio San. Even in the deeper and darker dimensions of the fragrance, the loveliness of the flowers and fruits are clearly present. The teanote is perfectly intergrated and creates an airy and almost light impression also in the basenotes. There is also a pleasant sort of  tingling (maybe the ginger) tartness present during most of the dry down. The notes of Cio Cio San doesn't smell chemical which could be a problem in some fruity-florals and tea fragrances, respectively.

Picture: The "bust bottle" of Cio Cio San, there
is also a version with a plain cap.
Photo: PR Parfums MDCI (c) 

Just as Cio Cio San herself aka Madame Butterfly, the fragrance Cio Cio San is a fragrance with at least two faces: The happy one just as in the very beginning of the opera, then the melancolic and sad expression just as the way to, and the end of, this tragic drama. Another beautiful flower fragrance which honors Madame Butterfly is Amouage Honour Woman (swe) which is a creamy, well blended, but less original white floral which plays in a less dramatic scale and in higher octaves than Cio Cio San.

Cio Cio San is a intriguing fragrance where different ascpects/facetts are highlighted in different wearings depending for example from how much of the scent is applicated. I'm looking forward to test Cio Cio San also in cold weather as I suspect it will wears nice then too. For summer it's great. Cio Cio San is appropriate for many occasions, both for work and casual, but not for sports, it's too complex for that.
Sillage is somewhere between close to medium, longevity for at least a day with traces on skin the morning after.

Those who like good quality fruity florals as Neela Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling, By Kilian Playing With The Devil and Robert Piguet Jeunesse I suspect will also appreciate Cio Cio San.

Rating: 5

Notes: Yuzu, lemon, ginger, grapefruit, cherry blossom, peony, litchi, tea, guaiac wood, cedar, mus

Parfums de Nicolaï - Kiss Me Intense

Picture: The Kiss (1908-1909)
Painting by Gustav Klimt (1862-1918)
Wikimedia commons

Kiss Me Intense is a reworked version of Kiss Me Tender Edt which was launched 2010. As usual when it comes to the house of de Nicolaï, Mme de Nicolaï herself is the creater of the fragrance.

Kiss Me Intense starts with a beautiful, warm, lush, sunny and somehow fresh note of heliotrope. It's not overly sweet, it's like it's just picked and some of the juicy green from the steam and leaves are also included. The heliotrophe is sweet and warm,  close to the scent of mimosa but thicker and darker in scent and texture. Almond and anice add gourmand sweetness to the fragrance and the mix smells almost like a soft almondcake. The flowery, gourmand accords are saftely anchored in a soft vanilla base. The fragrance is quite linear and the wearer could enjoy most of the notes  simultaneously. Kiss Me is a very cosy and embracing fragrance, like a smooth cashmerejumper. Somehow Kiss Me reminds me of how I imagine the atmosphere in beginning of the last century, the era of Gustav Klimt, where elegant ladies enjoying pasteries in Wiener cafés.

Picture: Kiss Me Intense in 30 and 100 ml
Photo: PR Parfums de NIcolaï (c)

To me Kiss Me Intense is a bit less pastery and more of the flower than the Edt version. It's a very good, sort of natural smelling gourmand fragrance, not too sweet or cloying, it has an uplifting sparkle to it. The gourmand style combined with the sweet flowernote makes Kiss Me perfect to wear for Easter. The longevity is good, at least for a day and sillage medium. Kiss Me is a fragrance for comforting, casual chic occasions and would also suit for casual Friday in the workplace.

Kiss Me is for those who like gourmands like Etro Heliotrope, Editions Frederic Malle Dries van Noten, By Kilian Intoxicated Carner Barecelona Rima XI and El Born

Rating: 5

Notes :Heliotrope, vanilla, star anise, almond, hay.

Maison Nicolas de Barry - Casanova

Picture: Portrait  of Giacomo Casanova (1725-1798)
Drawing by Fransesco Giuseppe Casanova (1727-1802)
Wikimedia commons

Casanova is a sparkling Edt from french nichehouse Maison Nicolas de Barry. The fragrance is composed by the founder of the house himself, Nicolas de Barry.

Casanova starts green, enlighted by citirc notes. There is also a light herbal, almost non-sweet minty touch in the topnotes. Soon a very beautiful, full, not diluted, jasmine appears. It's a jasmine somewhere between the jasmine in Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmine (swe) but without the dirty, horsey nuances and the flowery clean jasmine of for example By Kilian Love and Tears (swe). Some of the greenery of the jasmin seems also to be destilated in Casanova and the jasminenote is seconded by a smooth orangenote which adds a hint of fruit to the composition. The basenotes are light woody and warm with a light amberglow.

Casanova is for jasmine what Eau de Cardinal (reviewed last week) is for orangeblossom, a natural smelling, without any harsh chemical notes and no artificial smelling sweetness. Not anything new, but an easy to wear fragrance. The connection to Casanova is ambiguous, the perfume is nice smelling and in that part seducitive but when it comes to the character Casanova, I think the dirty MPG Jasmine would be a better choice.

Picture: Casanova
Photo: PR Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

The longevity on skin is about the same, about a day, as for Eau de Cardinal even if the latter is classified as a cologne, but on the other hand I applicated more of Eau Cardinal when I tested it so maybe the longevity is better for Casanova. Casanova is very jobfriendly, couldn't offend anyone with its optimistic spirit and has close silage. A fragrance especially for spring and summer but suits also during the winter when longing for the warm season.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, orange, jasmine, sandalwood, amber

Maison Nicolas de Barry - Eau de Vizir

Picture: Die Kinder des Vicomte d'Andrezel,
 französischer Botschafter an der Hohen Pforte,
werden dem Großwesir Ibrahim Pasha vorgestellt, 10. Oktober 1724
Oil on canvas by Jean Baptiste Vanmour (1671-1737)
Wikimedia commons

Eau de Vizir is a masculine, very original creation from the house Nicolas de Barry who has composed the fragrance, maybe in collaboration with Eddy Blanchet as some of the other fragrances.

Eau de Vizir starts with an aromatic, citric-herbal blast, it's strong and cold in apperance. Early a very sort of clean, dry, smoky vetivernote appears and it is present in full or as whispers during the rest of the fragrance. As it continues, herbs, especially basil, green notes and fresh bitter notes appears, the fennel is sort of natural fresh and uplifting. In texture and impression Eau de Vizir is cold as original Marni, but without the rosy elements. There is also a slight mentholic touch in some stages and somehow By Kilian Smoke for the Soul comes to my mind as also the classic Azzaro Acteur with its moisty forest floor accords. The aromatic-herbal accords are founded in a musky, woody accord in which the smoky vetiver also are clearly present, a base which emphasizes the fresh coolness of the scent.

Picture: Eau de Vizir
Photo: PR Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

Eau de Vizir is a good fragrance for regular daytime wearing. It's definitly masculine, suitable year around and would be perfect in early spring with the slight chilly air and wet soil. The longevity is very good, a little goes for about a day. Maybe Eau de Vizir is another addition to the reported upcoming, mostly non-sweet, woody-tarry-aromatic trend.

Rating: 3

Notes: Lemon, bergamot, orange, basil, vetiver, fennel, sandalwood, musk

Parfums de Nicolaï - Cuir Cuba Intense

Picture: Native American Tobaccoo flower and buds
Photo: William Rafti of the William Rafti Institute (c)
Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

 Cuir Cuba Intense is a recent creation from one of the perfumer I appreciate the most, Patricia de Nicolaï. OK, she's a Guerlain offspring so she has perfume in her blood so to say, but the heritage in it self doesn't form a talented perfumer. Patricia is not just talented (there are many talented) she also has the education, training and long experience that in the long run discerns a master parfumer form the good perfumers and the up coming stars. Patricia creates very wearable perfumes which are distinctive and intriguing but in the same time  commercially viable. Cuir Cuba Intense is another example of such a fragrance from the house of de Nicolaï.

Cuir Cuba Intense starts fresh sparkling with  warm citrus and fresh tobacco leaves balanced with some smooth, darker almost gourmand notes of licorice and anise. I can imagine just harvested tobaccoleaves that dries in the sun. Soon a bright and intensive, magnolia note appears and gives tha fragrance a warm, flowery, uplifitng expression. The magnolia is not the shrill and almost disruptive magnolia of  Frederic Malle Eau de Magnolia, the magnolia in Cuir Cuba Intense is sort of domesticated and it's better balanced with other notes. Cuir Cuba Intense is sunny, warm and a happy perfume. After a while smooth spicy elements are showing up, a bit peppery and deepening the warmth and pleasing nature of the fragrance. The cumin is skillfully handled, it doesn't stand out as a separate note, I suppose it just adds some of the strength to the spicy mix. As Cuir Cuba Intense reaches the basenotes it becomes darker and a slight gourmand, spicy cake, aspect of the fragrance appears and is offsetted by a light, animalic touch which create an intriguing inteaction. The patchouli, which smells what I percieve as the smell of natural patchouli leaves are blended with the fresh tobbacco in a extraordinary beautiful way, the best balanced rendition of the combo I have sniffed so far. In the basenotes Cuir Cuba Intense reminds me of another enjoyable recent release, Huitième Art Liqueur Charnelle but without the booze of the latter. The leather in Cuir Cuba Intense is not obvious to me, but tobbacco fragrances are often also referred to as leather/tobbacco. The fragrance is also not the heavy mens club, club chair tobbacco as for example By Kilian Back to Black, which I also like much, Cuba Intense is playing in its own league with the brilliant idea combining the fresh tobbacco with the magnolia.

Picture: Cuir Cuba Intense in the 100 ml bottle
Photo: PR Parfums de Nicolaï (c)

Cuir Cuba Intense is just that, very intense with a strenght that makes four spritzes on the verge to too much. A small 30 ml bottle will last for ages. The longevity is very good, I can smell it  light but unfragmented on skin after 24h. It's the perfect perfume to brighten up in winter but as a work of such an experienced perfumer, I could imagine it will show other aspects when tested in summer. Cuir Cuba Intense is unisex, leaning a bit to the feminine side when it comes to my nose.

Rating: 5

Notes: Lemon, star anise, licorice, mint, lavender, geranium, ylang-ylang, magnolia, coriander, cumin, patchouli, cedar, tobacco, hay, liatris, civet

Maison Francis Kurkdjian - Masculin Pluriel

Picture: "The Dandy king",
Joachim Murat (1767-1815),  King of Naples etc
Portrait by Francois Gérard (1770-1837)

Masculin Pluriel created by one of my favorite perfumers Francis Kurkdjian for his own house, is the masculine counterpart to one of the very best feminine perfumes of 2014 Féminin Pluriel. Just as the latter, Kurkdjian in Masculin Pluriel interprets a classical theme in a contemporary setting but still retains the timeless expression of the fragrance.

Masculin Pluriel starts with a beautiful note of lavender on a light, woody background. The lavendernote is the featured note during the rest of the dry down and it shows off a bit different at different stages, influenced by the surrounding and supporting notes. Masculin Pluriel is truly aromatic, lighter in the begining and darker in the later stages. The woody notes never get sharp or chemical and interacting with the herbal notes, the fragrance explore both dark and light accords, bitter and even if an overall non-sweet fragrance, there are some sweet elements, I can smell some woody vanilla, the vanillic note coming from wood, in the middle of the fragrance. There is also a very light, smoky element present in the fragrance but it's almost not detectable as smoke, there is absolutely nothing sharp or offending about it. The patchouli in the base are dark and desert-dry, like dried patchoulileaves, no moisty texture but anyway it lends a slight earthy impression to the mix. The patchouli blends perfectly and highlighting the deep and dark facets of the lavender, here the lavender reminds me partly of the lavendernote of Vero Profumo Kiki Extrait. There is something, the bitter, slight smoky impression, in Masculin Pluriel that reminds me of  the new By Kilian "extreme" Smoke for the Soul where Masculin Pluriel is the polished, elegant and wearable one. I read on Fragrantica that the fragrance trend for the coming years are woodsy and piny notes, as for example birch and likely  there is room for woody-aromatic fragrances in this trend which Masculi Pluriel and Smoke for the Soul could be some of the forerunners to. Another fragrance that comes to my mind testing Masculin Pluriel is the classic Aramis Tuscany (vintage) even if that one is bold and big compared to the former.

Picture: Masculin Pluriel
Photo: PR Maison Francis Kurkdjian (c)

Masculin Pluriel is an elegant, understated, very wearable choice for daytime officewear. There is something dandy-ish over the whole composition. The longevity is very good, for over a day and the fragrance is suitable for every season except the warmest summermonths. As Masculin Pluriel is a very well constructed and easy to wear fragrance, it should have been included in my best of 2014 list if I had tested it properly on myself and on Mr Parfumista before year end.

Rating: 5

Notes: Lavender, cedar, patchouli, vetiver, leather, woody notes

Naomi Goodsir - Or du Serail

Picture: The Reception (1873)
Painting by John Frederick Lewis (1805-1875)
Wikipedia commons

Or du Serail is the third fragrance in the perfumelinfe of australian fashiondesigner Naomi Goodsir. Or du Serail is created by the famous nose Bertrand Duchaufour.

Or du Serail starts with a wonderful blast of balsamic, resin notes, supported by cocos and  pickled fruits in boozy, rum-liqueur. This accord are present during the whole dry down but in different strengths in different parts of the fragrance. Soon a balancing almost aromatic note appears and adding some slight spritzy green texture to the fragrance. Combined with the other notes, an accord similar to the smell of almondcake appears for a while. I recognize this accord from Carner Barcelona Rima XI. Then Or du Serail goes on in a darker, fruity-rum phase, with some hardwood, the fizzy herbal green still present but more subdued. In this stege there is something that reminds me of a less spicier Frapin Caravelle Epicée with its woody rum and warmth crossed with  the dark, boosy, woody fruits of Parfum DelRae Bois de Paradise. In the basenotes a light gunpowdernote also appears balancing the boozy fruit, the resins and balsams with some dryness. In the late basenotes, the fruits somehow gets more noticeable again and has a slight flowery twist.

Picture: Or du Serail
Photo: PR Naomi Goodsir (c)

I can think of Or du Serail as suitable as a daytime perfume in the harem as I imagine heavier and much darker elixirs  was used for the night. For most of the public in todays Western World, Or du Serail is sufficiently full and exotic for evening wear, even if Parfumistas easily wears it for daytime during autumn and winter. Or du Serail will be the perfect fragrance for the coming Christmas holidays, despite celebrating at home/away or working. It's a unisex fragrance but IMO it lends a bit more to the feminine side. The sillage is medium and longevity for 24h.

Or du Serail is another oriental-fouerge I have tested lately. It seems as a genre with rising popularity at the moment, see also my reviews of By Kilian Intoxicated and Light My Fire. The aromatic notes in those fragrances makes them lighter, less sweet and probably attract a broder group of potential customer then the classical heavy orientels.

Rating: 4

Notes: Apple, red berries, mango, sweet orange, rum, artemisia, sage, coconut, geranium, ylang-ylang, mate, labdanum, beeswax, honey, tobacco, amber, oak tree, cedar, musk, vanilla

Thanks for Fragrance & Art for the sample to try

By Kilian - Intoxicated

Picture: In Cafe at Hotel Sacher, Wien
Photo: Deror avi (cc) Wikimedia commons,
some rights reserved

Intoxicated is the third tested fragrance in the new By Kilian subline Addicted State of Mind. The fragrance is created by the almost By Kilian inhouse nose Calice Becker.

Opens delicious with something which smells as a very dry lavendel note combined with coffe, cream and cardamom. Instantly the coffe-cream-lavendel  Belle en Rykiel  from Sonia Rykiel  comes to my mind but Belle is sweeter and more gourmand in style, Intoxicated is like an ariy, subtle version. After a while Intoxicated moves a step further compared with Belle and Intoxicated  is further warmed up with more light, sort of airy interpreted spices with an offsetting fizzy accord/note which is present from now on.

During the whole drydown, Intoxicated seems to be injected with some special almost fizzy aromatic notes but  the notes are not of the full herbal quality. Instead the impression is as some parts of some aromatic notes have been separated and then mixed to a new version of an aromatic note. Anyway, that note or accord  perfectly counterbalances  the sweetness from coffe,cream and the warmth of the spices.
Finally, in  the basenotes, Intoxicated ends up in a  pleasant mix of fresh cardamon in a caffe latte, suported by the rest of  the spices. very cozy and awesome to wear a grey, rainy autumnday. There is also the  fizzy, woody quality  (described above) in the base that brightens it up and avoid that Intoxicated ends up too dense and sweet which is always a risk with "café-inspired" fragrances. There are also traces of something dark, similar to patchouli.

Intoxicated is IMO the stand out (at least when it comes to what's pleasant for me to wear, when it comes to originality Smoke for the Soul takes the prize) in the Addicted State of Mind-trio. Wearing this well balanced blend gives the image of visitning a cosily café and stay there for hours a gloomy autumn afternoon. It's a pleasure to wear, makes the wearer happy and it is suitable for daytime wear during the cold season. The sillage is close, and there is overnight longevity. Even if not a groundbreaking composition Intoxicated is so delicious, nice to wear and comfortable that it deserves:

Rating: 5

Notes: Cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, coffee

By Kilian - Light My Fire

Picture: The Doors -
personalizing "Light My Fire"
Photo: PR from 1968, Wikipedia commons

Light My Fire is the second fragrance I have tested in the new Addicted state of Mind trio from french nichehouse By Kilian. Pefumer is Sidonie Lancesseur.

Light My Fire starts with boozy tobacco executed in the higher octaves of the fragrancenotes scale. Despite that booze/tobacco traditionally is dark, deep and warm notes, here they are somehow high-pitched and almost cold. After a while a pleasant bubblegumnote, similar to that note in Jean Paul Gaultier 2 but more subtle, appears and softens the tobaccoleaves. A bit sharp, green note, paste-like in texture shows up as a contrast. This note reminds me of the spicy green, foody note in Etat Libre d'Orange Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Argumes. In the early dry down this note is slight metallic and in some stages Light My Fire reminds me of a softer version of the original Gianfranco Ferre Homme with its special, metallic, oriental, tobacco and spicy notes. There are also something familiar with the old Fendi Uomo but lighter in texture. As Light My Fire dries further down the green note becomes almost fizzy and with fresh vibes and smells almost like like geranium for a. When Light My Fire settles in the basenotes a harmonius blend of tbbacco, hay, light patchouli and some supporting vetiver are dominating. The green, spicy note still there but not as not as clear as before. In this stage I smell some similarities with the tobacco of Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque but in Light My Fire the note is thinner and lighter. The basenotes is the most pleasant phase of the perfume and the patchouli interacting with the tobacco, adds a welcomed depth to the fragrance. In the basenotes there is a similarity in expression with Frapin Speakeasy.

Compared to THE tobacco perfume of By Kilian Back to Black, Light My Fire may be likened with blond, fresh tobacco suitable for a light cigarette and Back to Black to ripe, deep, dark pipe tobacco.
Light My Fire is a pleasant and wearable perfume, nothing groundbreaking but good. It suits best for autumn and winter as for most occasions. Sillage is close and longevity for more than a day.

Rating: 4

Notes: Cumin, hay, patchouli, vetiver, honey, vanila, tobacco