Best of 2018

Picture: Cap Néroli
Photo: PR Parfums Nicolaï (c)

Picture: Néroli Intense
Photo: PR Parfums Nicolaï (c)

As 2018 should be the year wearing from my own perfume wardrobe, I only tested a few perfumes launched during the year. Therefore I couldn't announce a winner in "Best of 2018" even if there where some that I enjoyed and will write about below. Of course both the nérolis Cap Néroli and Néroli Intense from the reliable quality house Parfums de Nicolaï were great.

I also enjoyed Atelier Cologne Iris Rebelle very much, the Rebelle is my favorite from the AC line together with Café Tuberosa which was launched in 2017.

Picture: Iris Rebelle
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)

Picture: Rose Rouge
Photo: PR Van Cleef & Arpels (c)

Picture: Gucci Guilty
Absolue pour Femme
Photo: PR Gucci (c)

Gucci Guilty Absolue pour Femme is in the dark patchouly contemporary chypre genre that I appreciate much, here with a juicy blackberry touch. Even if good it's not reaching  the level of Gucci Guilty Absolue pour Homme. Rose Rouge from Van Cleef & Arpels was another nice addition this year which also has some dark tangy fruit involved. The new variation of Coco Mad,  Coco Mademoiselle Intense  (which I wear today) is the winner (of the few I've sniffed) in the dark patchouly, contemporary chypre genre, at least for me, an  admirer of the Chanel style.

Picture: Coco Mademoiselle Intense
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

Picture: Nomade
Photo: PR Chloé (c)
  

Picture: Flerur d'Argent
Photo: PR Miu Miu (c)

Picture: Ombré Leather
Photo: PR Tom Ford (c)
 

Other good releases in 2018 were Miu Miu Fleur d'Argent  a musky, cold, grand floral and the quiet and floating Chloé Nomade slight mossy and suedelike. A 2018 release   that Mr Parfumista appreciate much is Tom  Ford Ombré Leather even if he likes Tuscan Leather better, the dept, strenght and longevity of TL is better than OL.                   
 


Picture: Eau de Citron Noir
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

A fragrance that confuses me among the  launches is Hermès Eau de Citron Noir. On  me it smells as sort of a peppery hell, on my son it smells really good, like a sundried, salty, lime infused piece of wood on a sandy seashore.

 

Addition on 31 December 2018: I knew there was some good launch I've forgotten when I wrote this entry and today I'm remember which one, when reading the best of 2018 on Bois de Jasmin. It's Hermès Cédre Sambac which is actually no 1 of the ones I've tested 2018. Probably I forgot about it as there was only a only a brief test, a single spritz and a scentstrip at NK departmentstore. So maybe I can't include it as properly tested but who cares when it comes to this beauty, a clean woody jasmin that somehow reminds me of an upscale variation on Cacharel Scarlett a fragrance that i didn't like in it's heydays.

Picture: Hermessence Cédre Sambac
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2019!  

Gucci - Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme

Picture: Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme
Photo: PR Gucci (c)

Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme is the female interpretation of the 2017 success for him, the rubbery leather Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme. Both fragrances are created by the very experienced perfumer Alberto Morillas. 

Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme (GGApF) starts with a juicy, very natural black berry and to my nose also black currant accord. Later on  a purple rose accompanied by the green woody note of cypress, some glimpses from the leather in Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme  (GGApH) and the dark patchoulinote shows up. Light rose pepper sparkles in the blend like glimpsing stars on the dark night sky in the middle of a cold winter. The pepper never goes peppery, it's just fizzy. The fruity notes are tangy and delicate, and not especially sweet. GGApF has some similarities with GGApH, the same woody notes, especially from the cypress and a smooth interpretation of the leather. GGApF has not the rough and though burnt rubbery notes of GGApH, instead it has those beautiful dark fruity, juicy notes blended with the rose which creates a plush feminine impression over the contrasting masculine woody notes.

GGApF could be worn both for day and night. It's a bit formal, it's not a casual, laid back fragrance, it's perfect for the office and for after work. It's a fragrance that builds confidence, in the same way as for example Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Edp and even more; Montana Parfum de Peau. Just as the fragrances mentioned, the longevity is great, silage not as big but medium.

GGApF is an excellent example of the new chypre style, less sweet than the usual ones and with its own juicy, dark blackberry character. Even if GGApF is an example of the new chypre style, wearing it somehow makes me think of, even if not smelling similar, the above mentioned grand chypre of the 80s Montana. GGApF:s character also reminds me of Sisley Soir de Lune which is also a great contemporary chypre but created in the classic style. 

To me GGApF is one of the best releases for years in the womans section. I'm convinced this will be a classic just as GGApH.

Rating: 5

Notes: Blackberry, bergamot, pink pepper, rose, cypress, woody notes, amber, patchouli