Reassessements May 2012

Yesterday a lovely, sunny May 1th, we made the first boat trip for this season ( this years boatlaunch was this weekend) together with some friends. Cruising around on the  water in the heart of Stockholm is something I really will recommend. But nevertheless no idleness when it comes to me and fragtesting, during the cruise I have reassessed two fragrances that havn't left my mind since I tested and reviewed them. Havn't left my mind is generally a good sign when it comes to fragrances and proved to be the case concerning both the re-tested fragrances. I smell quite different aspects than when I reviewed Elie Saab Le Parfum back in grey November and Opus VI in March. I have updated the reviews with my new findings.

Amouage - Opus VI

Picture: Sichuan pepper. Photo: Chameleon (cc)

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For a later impression of Opus VI, scroll down.
Opus VI is the latest creation (haven't found out by who it's created) in the fast expanding Library Collection of Amouage. Regarding Amouage, my preferences so far is by the main Amouage perfumeline, even if I  really appreciate Opus I and Opus III from the Library Collection.

Opus VI is said to be an ambre, leather, woody compositon and although these notes are present in the composition, they are overall far surpassed by other notes. Not surprising Opus VI opens with a beautiful almost airy ambery note supported by the typical Amouage frankincense-housenote. The incense note advances rapidly supported by strong sichuan pepper at the expense of the pleasant amber and the incense/pepper are soon the stars of the show. The intense incense stage is continuing for hours, supported by pepper and other distinctive spicy/woody notes. When Opus VI reaches the basenotes the pepper/incense calms down, but are still clearly present when hints of the subtle amber comes thorugh  together with wiffs of a well modulated patchouli and sandalwood. The ambernote becomes more distinctive ande the incense/pepper balanced the more the basenotes developes. There is also an almost paperlike, very dry note which probably derives from the vanillanote that I can also detect during the latest stages of the drydown. The latest stages are my favourite parts of Opus VI.

Overall Opus VI is a good fragrance, by superior ingredients. That despite of that Opus VI to my untrained nose maybe is a bit unbalanced as the incense and peppernotes are allowed to dominate the composition almost compleatly. To the price of EUR 275 I also expect something more original. I have already smelled a bunch of similar perfumes as: Montale Dark Oud (peppery with sandalwood), Carner Barcelona Cuirs (peppery spicy leather), Montale Aoud Musk (peppery with musk) and also within the Opus line Opus II (peppery aromatic) and the most similar of all, Amouages Epic Man which bears some greener notes. The peppery anorectic amber Opus VI  definitely provides a good alternative in this genre of fragrances and it's of course up to the wearer to find out which one that best suits the personal taste.

Opus VI is wearable, both for business and pleasure, year around expect in the warmest summertemperatures. It's a unisex fragrance that to my nose slightly lends towards the masculine territory.

Rating: 3+ (March 2012) Rating  5 (May 2012) Reassessment - A few months later I suddenly adore Opus VI. I think the dosage is the key to Opus VI. With only one spritz applied a lovely, almost soapy, oudy, spicy, ambery quality appears. I also smell a note similar to dark and dry choclate and the sandalwood note is obvious but anyway doesn't take the center. Very well blended and so beautiful even if not the most original creation.

Notes: Bay, frankincense, sichuan pepper, nagarmotha, silk wine, patchouli, sandalwood, labdanum, amber

Thanks to Amouage for providing a sample to test.