Frapin - Nevermore

Picture: "Le Corbeau"
  Drawing by Édouard Manet (1832-1883) 

The haunting dark, mysterious Nevermore is the latest release from the vernarable congnachouse of Frapin, a house which also create perfumes, almost always with a boozy touch. Nevermore is inspired of the life, work and mysterious death of the american novelist Edgar Allan Poe especially from the poem "The Raven" and also the suggestive story of the "Poe Toaster". The Poe Toaster is a figure in a dark cloak who appears on the birthday of Edgar Allan Poe, put down three roses, toasts in a glass of congac and left the remains in the bottle on the grave. And what could be a better interpretaton of that scene than Nevermore....

Nevermore starts with a honeyed, beewaxnote. Soon an almost metallic spicy pink-purple rosy accord appears, followed by a rosy and winey accord  close to the special winey accord in  Frederic Malle Une Rose but in Nevermore the accord is in a drier interpretation. I percieve Une Rose as sweeter, but to me the closest fragrance to Nevermore. The spicy metallic vibe is probably from the saffron and there is also a slight oudy, impression. As the ingredient is not mentioned Nevermore is probably a representant of the genre "non oudy ouds" ie fragrances which recalls oud in the texture and appearance but featura the oud note, Among the dry spices there is also  something from the dark green bayleave note present from Andy Tauer Une Rose Chypreé. There is also an slight earthy impression and a dark leather note, like the stiff leather in a black leather trenchcoat, glimpses by.

Picture: Nevermore
Photo: Frapin (c)

In the basenotes a distinct but wellbalanced, slight woody powdery like pulverized dry woodshavings of cedar,accord is present. There is also a beautiful and natural smelling rose present, very dark red, almost black and with a touch of decaying notes. In the late basenotes there is like the rose gets lighter and more pink-purple again but still wrapped in the cedar and in a contrasting  warm amnber.

Taken as a whole Nevermore is suggestive and triggers ones imagination which is something I demand from a fragrance to be FBW. It is very longlasting on skin with a strong sillage, this is a fragrance that must be carefully applied. In style it's a quite masculine rose, it developes in a very beautiful way on Mr Parfumista, not that good on me. When worn by Mr Parfumista there is some similarities with another favorite of him, Montale Aoud Saffran even if Nevermore is drier and more cold spicy.

Rating: 5 (on Mr Parfumista) 4 (on me)

Notes: Aldehydes, nutmeg, black pepper, rose, saffron, amber, cedar

Olivier Durbano - Lapis Philosophorum

Picture: From the world of alchemistry
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Lapis Philosophorum is the 2013 release from Olivier Durbano who is an architect and a jewelry designer, His perfumes are inspired by his collection of semi-precious stones, Bijoux de Pierres Poèmes (Perfumes of Stones Poems).A common trait in his perfumeline is the involvement of different types of incense. Lapis Philosophorum is inspired from how the ancient alchemists was searching for the Philosopher’s stone that would change base metals into pure gold. 

Lapis Philosophorum starts with soft balsamic notes with over a gentle, winey backgrouond, the winey accord is reminiscent of the winey expression in Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Une Rose. After a while a soft note of incense appears, balancing the tangy winey notes in a sort of meditative harmony. The winey soft incense accord stays through the whole dry down of LP and lasts also in  the contrasting base of the fragrance. The base is very original, a clear menthol note which adds an almost sea-salty impression, is blended with warm, balsamic notes of opoponax and myrrh with oakmoss contributing with its mysterious, dark, velvety green dept. There is something with LP in this phase that reminds me of a darker, warmer and  incense infused sibling to the salty, aquatic, herbal  Finisterre by Maria Candida Gentile.In the later stage of the basenotes, LP turns dark blue in its expression as an inky note appears on an almost metallic background. 

Picture: Lapis Philosophorum
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Lapis Philosophorum evokes the image of medieval alchemist working in the secret, hidden somewhere in the a dark moisty cave with lichens on the rough and cold walls. The overall impression of Lapis Philosophorum is, despite the odd combination of notes, a well balanced, soft, calming and relaxing fragrance of high quality and with (even to my jaded nose) intriguing twists in each phase of the dry down. This is a fragrance that catches my attention from the first dab to the final notes 12h+ later, something I really appreciate from a perfume.

Rating: 5

Notes: Calamus, juniper, rum, truffle, grapefruit, wine sediment, frankincense, mesquite, ambergris, menthol

opoponax, myrrh, musk, oak moss

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test.

Guerlain - Rose Barbare

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Rose Barbare is created 2005 by Francis Kurkdjian for the Guerlain L'Arte et la Matiere line. Rose Barbare were one of the first three released fragrances of the line, the other was Cuir Beluga and Angelique Noir all created by different for the occasion specially, by Guerlain invited perfumers. As an admirer of complex roseperfumes, Rose Barbare is the fragrance I most appreciate in the L'Arte et la Matiere line. Rose Barbare is a gourmand rose, just as all the fragrances of the L'Arte et la Matiere line is oriented towards the gourmand theme.

Rose Barbare opens with an accord of a creamy and intense pink rose accentuated with greenery. After a while the fragrance deepens in darker notes of patchouli and wood. In this stage with the dark and deep notes, Rose Barbare shows similarities with another Francis Kurkdjian composition, Lady Vengeance from Juliette Has A Gun. The creamy, honyed accord in Rose Barbare, remains and soften the composition during the whole dry down. The concept with the flower embedded in a smooth creamy texture is also used in Cruel Gardenia in the same perfumeline.  There is also an almost vintage touch of Rose Barbare, passages during the development that reminds me of a classy, vintage perfume.

Rose Barbare is an elegant perfume. Just as its siblings in the L'Arte et la Matiere line Rose Barbare is very comfortable, interesting and absolute beautiful. In the same time it's uncomplicated and easy to wear and I suspect that this is a bestseller. Combing those factors is a true work of art and creates a classic. Rose Barbare is a perfect companion for festive events but also to brighten up a gloomy day. Sillage is medium and longevity 24h+.

Rose Barbare would be appreciated by those who like rose scents in the range from  moderate to dark. For example Rose de Nuit and Sa Majeste la Rose by Serge Lutens, Une Rose by Parfums Edition Frederic Malle, Eau Suave by Parfume d'Empires and Roses Musk by Montale.

Rating: 5

Notes: Aldehydes, rose, honey, fenugreek, patchouli, wood