Annick Goutal - Les Absolus Ambre Sauvage

Picture: Painting of a family game of checkers
("jeu des dames"), ca 1803
Painting by Louis-Léopold Boilly (1761-1845)

Ambre Sauvage is featuring another staple in perfumery: Amber. Ambre Sauvage is created by Camille Goutal and perfumer Isabelle Doyen.

Ambre Sauvage starts with a soft and smooth amber note, the amber is nor herbal, nor dry gunpowdery, nor candy sweet, just light, refined like a mediumbrown colored silkveil fluttering in the wind. There are no sharp, rough edges of the resins in Ambre Sauvage, it's a balsamic interpretation mixed with the glazed vanilla of Vanille Charnelle. For a short while I can also feel a light, almost salty vibe. As Ambre Sauvage dries down an offsetting slight cold accord with a just detectable iris/lavender appears, balancing the warmth of the amber. A refined, dry and dark patchouli creates a beautiful dept to the perfume. Ambre Sauvage is very well balanced and blended in a way which makes it hard to distinguies the different ingredients, they are just swirling in a comforting, quality flow. Compared to the earlier Annick Goutal amber, Ambre Fetiche, Ambre Sauvage is quiet and soft, Ambre Fetiche is relatively loud and powerful compared to Ambre Sauvage and Ambre Fetiche contains a  considerable amount of incense.

Picture: Ambre Sauvage
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)

Ambre Sauvage is a calming fragrance, a fragrance which feels classic in style and apperance. When wearing it I can imagine ladies from the Empire wafting this type of fragrance when moving in their cashmere stoles. Ambre Sauvage is maybe not the right name to this gentle and refined amber as it is not wild at all, on the contrary it's very polished, soft and elegant.

Ambre Sauvage is an excellent comfort fragrance for autumn and winter. It's softspoken and could not offend anyone. Sillage is close and longevity for more than a day. Unisex but leaning to the feminine side.

Even if not smelling the same I think those who likes ambers as the more boozy Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe, the more woody-spicy Téo Cabanel Barkhane and the a tad sweeter Rania J. Ambre Loup will also appreciate Ambre Sauvage.

Rating: 5

Notes: Patchouli, amber; pink pepper, lavender, iris, vanilla 

Téo Cabanel - Barkhane

Picture: Erg Chebbi, Morocco, Africa
Photo: 84514010 Author Rosino (cc),
Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

Barkhane inspired of Saharian dunes of transverse form, is the latest release from the house of Téo Cabanel. Barkhane is created by the housenose Jean-Francois Latty.

Barkhane starts dark, boozy and almost edible. The amber is not the sweet vanillic type, nor the typical herbal version, but  traces of spices are evident. A refreshing note of geranium shines through in the early stages of Barkhane and somehow the ease that the geranium provides to the fragrance, remains during the developement of Barkhane. Despite all the heavy ingredients, Barkhane doesn't become dense or cloying and in the later third of the fragrane a dry,on the verge to powdery, paper-like quality appears which is close to a much less sweet version of the papernote in Boucheron Trouble. Probably this comes from the vanilla note as vanillin like notes could be extracted from wood. This dry papernote is interacting beautiful with the dark, underlying, boozy, woody notes. There is also a wellcrafted, dark, minimalistic patchoulinote coming forward in the pleasant base of Barkhane. The spices also comes forward in the later atages of Barkhane, the almost putty, slight metallic curry tree note gives the spicy blend a special touch.

Barkhane is, as all Téo Cabanels tested so far, a well crafted, classic styled (but with a contemporary touch) oriental blend of high quality ingredients, very wearable in many situations. The fragrance is also affordable taken in consideartion the steep increases in the prices of niche. It's a perfect fragrance for winter but as it's note dense or cloying I also think it would be nice to wear in late summerevenings. Longevity is good, about 12h and as the stylish creation it is, the sillage is just right, not at least intruding but not just a skinscent.

Fragrances which comes to my mind when wearing Barkhane is Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe similar lightness despite the boozy amber, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Doré the dark, mysterious notes and the cult amber Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561 Ambra Nera also dry, dark, almost powdery and with some spices. Also The Different Company Oriental Lounge comes to my mind and probably this comes from the spicy qualities of Barkhane, in particular the curry tree note that both fragrances have in common. I think those who considering the mentioned fragranses should also try Barkhane before the final decision what to buy.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Bergamot, cumin, geranium, curry tree, patchouli, vetiver, oud, labdanum, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla, musk

The fragrance of Christmas Eve

Picture: Winterroses. 2013 is a warm winter
without (almost) any snow so far.
Photo: Mr Parfumista

Time for the regular Christmas Eve post:. Scent of Christmas Eve 2013 is the retrostyled, furry, herbal, ambery, beauty Quintaesensia created by Ramòn Monegal. I'll review Quintaesencia tomorrow.
Below is the updated list of the fragrances I've worn the last then Christmas Eves:

2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+.
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals)

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices)

2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers)

2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse)

I wish all of you a Great Christmas and as I'm very curious to know what you are wearing for Christmas, feel free to leave a comment.

Edit at Christmas Eve: Mr Parfumistas SOTD is the incredible Chypre Mousse from Oriza L.Legrand. A perfect match to this rainy and green Christmas (green lawns and roses outside).

Fragrance(s) of the week (12) 2013

Picture: Hermès Elixir des Merveilles
Photo: PR Hermès (c) all rights reserved

Havn't anything perfume-wise to say this week except that my craving for orange and orangeblossom  in the sunny but very cold weather is evident. Robert Piguet Blossom and L'Artisan Seville à l'Aube are my choices. As is it very cold for the season I'm still remains in the oriental wardrobe with frags as Parfum d'Empires  Ambre Russe and Hermès  L'Ambre des Merveilles and Elixir des Merveilles, where the latter is the perfect  formula for the situation as it combines orange and oriental notes.

Julaftonsdoften 2011

Bild: Novemberros  Foto: Herr Parfumista (c)

Dags för det traditionsenliga inlägget om Juaftonsdoften. I år har vädret anpassat sig så väl till det prov jag sedan länge tänkt testa just på julafton, nämligen Grossmiths Betrothal. Betrothal är klassiskt blommig parfym vars första version skapades till prinsessan May (Mary) till hennes bröllop med den blivande Georg V. Alltså inte direkt en doft som man förknippar med julafton men i år är det trots allt en i det närmaste grön julafton. Återkommer till Betrothal när jag samlat intryck av denna nyligen applicerade kreation.

Så till historiken, en tillbakablick på mitt doftval åtta julaftnar ser ut så här:

2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (läder, apelsinblomma, jasmin, kryddor)

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (läder, rök, oud, utsökta kryddor)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (ros, mandarin, kardemumma, myrra ceder- och rökrlseträ)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (spritigt ambrerande, träiga, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (mörka, övermogna frukter, vita blommor och kryddor på orientalisk bas)

2005: Nuit de Nöel, Caron (dovt blommig chypre med trä och pälston)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (lädrig chypre med kärvt grönt och viss blommighet)

2003: Fracas, Robert Piguet (drottningen av tuberos, sinnebilden för den stora vitblommiga parfymen)

Sammantaget hittills alltså lädrigt, orientaliskt eller tunga blommor. Alltså helt rätt med ett avsteg från det gängse mönstret i år.

Så till den traditionella julenkäten: Vilken doft valde du på julafton och varför?

Sist men inte minst tillönskas alla Parfymnördar en riktigt God och doftrik Jul!

Julaftonsdoften 2010

Foto: Herr Parfumista (c)

Ännu en fin, snöig och vit julafton. Bara väl kallt. Alltså egentligen gjutet för en riktig oriental som förra årets Tribute Attar. Men i år kände jag mig rätt velig, så lång och sträng som den här vintern verkar bli så blir det tråkigt att bara köra oriental/gourmand/tunga blommor. Så jag var öppen för i stort sett alla doftfamiljer i morse, utom lätt citrus och aqua. Det hela slutade med en (tycker jag) ren läderdoft, Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque. Med sin moriska inspiration med läder som känns som insmort med kryddor, diskret jasmin och apelsinblomma värmer den fint en kall julafton som den här. Det blir med sin torrhet och värme en kompromiss , den har något som påminner om en oriental värmen men inte sötman perfekt för jul.

Så till historiken, en tillbakablick på mitt doftval sju julaftnar ser ut så här:

2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (läder, rök, oud, utsökta kryddor)

2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (ros, mandarin, kardemumma, myrra ceder- och rökrlseträ)

2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empire (spritigt ambrerande, träig, oriental)

2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (mörka, övermogna frukter, vita blommor och kryddor på orientalisk bas)

2005: Nuit de Nöel, Caron (dovt blommig chypre med trä och pälston)

2004: Cabochard,  Parfums Grès (lädrig chypre med kärvt grönt och viss blommighet)

2003: Fracas, Robert Piguet (drottningen av tuberous, sinnebilden för den stora vitblommiga parfymen)

Så en liten enkät:

Vilken doft valde du till julafton? Varför?

Och sist men inte minst:

En riktigt God Jul alla parfymälskare, och alla andra (om nu andra går in på en sådan här nördig blogg)!