Best of 2014

Picture: Grape hyacinths in spring 2014
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Best of 2014 is not an easy post to write (and should not be as long as the perfume industry has not collapsed compleatly :-) as I have tried a bunch of good fragrances released in the market this year. And as usual, I've just tested a fraction of the thousend+ releases on the international market.

Best Feminine:
Vero Profumo Rozy Voile d'Extrait, an retro styled but still contemporary deep, balsamic, oriental rose.
Close contenders: My Burberry and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Féminin Pluriel both contemporary, beutiful floral interpretations by Francis Kurkdjian, the former a  though, urban flower, the latter a contemporary but in the same time timeless flower creation. Le Galion Iris a magnificent, iris-lily dominated floral bouquet, review will follow in January 2015.

Best Masculine:
Le Galion Special for Gentleman, an elegant, retrostyled, very masculine aromatic/chypre.
Close contenders: Oriza L.Legrand Vétiver Royal Bourbon  unisex but leaning IMO to the masculine side. Chalky, brisk, light green vetiver, nautral smelling with some traces of Terre d'Hermes, the chalky tone. By Kilian Smoke for the soul doesn't suit me personally but the fragrance is very original and innovative to be a member of the Kilian line. Therefore it's the stand out in the "The addicted state of mind" trio.

For both:
Serge Lutens L'Orpheline is totally unisex to me, fits equally fits equally well for me as for Mr Parfumista. It's a fragrance that is a growing liking for me. I like it much better worn in colder tempratures than when tested it last summer for the review. A new and appealing interpretation of incense. Frapin Nevermore, this decades interpretation of the iconic dark rose of the 1990s; L'Artisan Voleur de Roses. Nevermore is leaning to the masculine side but I admit I notice a growing appreciation to wear it myself.

Disappointments of the year:
Both are very good fragrances but apparently in practice the don't fit me even if they should, in theory.
Editions Parfums Frederic Malle Eau de Magnolia: Even if a well constructed fragance and probably a hit commercial, it's just too shrill to me, and honestly, to me this fine fragrance is boring in the long run.
Cartier La Panthere: Probably I havn't tested it enough, but even if well constructed etc it doesn't leave a lasting impression, I can't remember at all how it smells.

Wishing you a great New Years Eve and a Happy New 2015!

Favorite Orizas

Picture: The crest of Oriza L.Legrand
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand

As mentioned before, as I like retrostyled fragrances, the fragrances of Oriza L.Legrand are among my best findings during the latest years. The Oriza fragrances are all wellblended, of a good quality and which to prefer is not a matter of uneven quality among the fragrances, it's just ones personal preferences. My top three favorite Orizas (so far) are:

Oeillet Louis XV "The Oriza Carnation"; powdery, tart light caranation
Rêve d'Ossian "The Oriza Amber"; balsamic, tender, comforting
Horizon "The Oriza Patchouli"; very well rounded patch, one of the best patchoulis on the market

But I also would be pleased to wear:

Relique D'Amour "The incense Oriza"; incense in the colder, green pine-y, sub-family
Déjà le Printemps "The green Oriza"; crispy, springtime bulbflowers
Jardins D'Armide "The powdery Oriza"; an esteemed member of the elegant ladylike, aldehydic family

For Mr Parfumista

Chypre Mousse "The chypre/fourgé Oriza" The best Oriza so far, very original, no smell alikes (from what I have smelled) expect Kerosene Creature which has some similar notes, but not as balanced as in Chypre Mousse.
Vetiver Royal Bourbon "The vetiver Oriza" One of the very best vetivers on the market.

Chypre Mousse is the favorite of the very picky Mr Parfumista followed by Royal Vetiver Bourbon.
Looking forward to the coming recontructions/recreations from this quality house.

The Orizia L.Legrand fragrances are available at Fragrance & Art as also the Oriza L.Legrand  webshop.

Oriza L.Legrand -Vétiver Royal Bourbon

Picture: The great vetiver  Vétiver Royal Bourbon
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand (c) 

Vétiver Royal Bourbon is another sucessful reinterpretation/reconstruction of an old (1914) Oriza L.Legrand formula. As usual conducted by Oriza the co-owner, perfumer Hugo Lambert.

Vétiver Royal Bourbon starts with uplifting notes who complements the gingerfacet of vetiver and the impression is fizzy, sparkling almost gauzy. The imagined color is bright green. As Vétiver Royal Bourbon dries down, the darker, almost juicy-rooty-grassy aspects steps forward and the imagined color is medium green-grey in a velvet texture. A smooth, natural dry, spicyness also appears. When reaching the basenotes the multifacetted vetiverblend finds its stable foundation a slight smoky, boozy  base. Here an ambery brown has joined the imagined color of the fragrance.

Vétiver Royal Bourbon is an extraordinary vetiver. It's dense but not in a heavy or cloying way and it smells very natural as I imagine oils of the highest qualties of the vetiver grass are smelling. As mainingredient for the fragrance the finest and rarest vetiver from Réunion Island (Isle de Bourbon) also is used. Compared to the gold standard true vetiver "solivetiver" Les Nez Turtle Vetiver Excercise 1 by Isabelle Doyen, Vétiver Royal Bourbon is in the same leauge. Comparing the two, Vétiver Royal Bourbon is a more polite and civilized take on the natural smelleing vetiver,  comfortable chit-cating in the royal salons whereas Turtle is the the noble savage  the entering from the huge forest. Just as Turtle, Vétiver Royal Bourbon isn't as diluted as the bulk of vetiverfragrances avaible today, it feels like there are a higher concentration of the vetiveroil in both these excellent fragrances. Vétiver Royal Bourbon is a vetiver for lovers of the real thing, not the common, diluted versions of the note. A true gem.

Picture: The perfect match for Vétiver Royal Bourbon, 
the newly installed Bourbon (Borbón) king ,
HM King Felipe VI of Spain.
Photo borrowed from the net, photograph unknown. 

The review is based on wearings both by me and the vetiverconnoisseur Mr Parfumista, whos top vetiverfragrance of all times is the above mentioned Turtle Vetiver Excercise 1. Despite the similarities with the Turtle, Mr Parfumista is strongly considering adding Vétiver Royal Bourbon to his collection and that´'s a good rating as he very rarely buys a full bottle, the latest was by the best Oriza of them all, Chypre Mousse. Vétiver Royal Bourbon is classified as unisex and it is, even if I think it's leaning to the masculine side. Beeing a vetiver, the fragrance is exceptionally suitable for dressed up occassions but is also appropriate for office or as casual-chic. The longevity is good, about a day and the sillage is pleasantly present.

Rating: 5

Notes: Peppermint, thyme, vetiver, labdanum, iris, sandalwood, juniper, leather, styrax, immortelle, tobacco, oakmoss