Fragrances for late winter

The late winter, with spring around the corner, is the perfect season for a true parfumista: One day I'm carving a light and bright springfragrance and the other day a deep and dark oriental and the third day something in between. Below some nice frags from this week:


Picture: Prada (Amber)
Photo: PR Prada (c)

Prada (Prada): My bottle is from 2005 it's before Prada added "Amber" to the name. The perfect dark and embracing contemorary oriental with a rounded patchouli paired with amber and some vanilla.

Picture: Geranium Bourbon
Photo: PR Miller Harris (c)

Geranium Bourbon (Miller Harris): Green, dry, sunny, airy, with an austere and clean geranium flower note. A natural scent, like a garden a cool and windy summerday. Vintage in style but timeless anyway. Somehow GB resembles the intriguing Rose Noir in a bright version.

Picture: Aurore Nomade
Photo: PR The Different Company (c)

Aurore Nomade (The Different Company): A very special high quality, boozy, flowery, gourmand oriental with banana and rum accords. Warm and opulent, almost tasty. Comforting.

Picture: Galop d'Hermès
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Galop d'Hermès (Hermès): The ulitmate rose-leather with the special addition of quince. Reminds me of a strictly and colder variation of Penhaligon's warm and spicy quince rose Vaara. Very classy and elegant.

Picture: Iris des Champs
Photo: PR Houbigant (c)

Iris des Champs (Houbigant): A light purple and grey fragrance. Starts with a delicious rooty iris then develops to a cloud of cold flowers with iris and lily of the valley as protagonists. Daytime springlike elegance.

Still winter....

Picture: Winter is still here...
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Last week was snowy and with  tempratures between -10 and - 15 C. In the same time the light is back and there were some sunny days which, even if cold,  indicate that spring really is around the corner. These opposites causes an ambivalence in perfumewearing, I'm craving both warm and heavy fragrances as also lighter and brighter ones. This was reflected in the fragrances worn last week:

Epidor (Lubin): Both Monday and Tuesday was cold, sunny days and Epidors  sunny, hayish and light fruity apperance was both contrasting but also somehow matching as it has something like a cold string in it. This together with a distinct tonka been make me think of the original Dolce&Gabbana pour Homme when wearing Epidor.

Opium Edt (Yves Saint Laurent): The current, more woody version. But still cinnamon is evident as also the overall, varm, velvety and oriental spicy character. Opium warmed the whole cold, windy and snowy Wednesday up.

Prada La Femme Intense (Prada): An elegant, restrained, white and tropical flowers over a well-behaved patchouli is suitable in any climate or season. Added some casual elegance to my Thursday.

Najaf  (Xerjoff): Craved for something dark and woody for Friday and a sample of Najaf caught my interest. Animalic, very woody, with the tangy, bitter but in the same time sort of fresh smell of oud.

Aromatic Elixir (Clinique): This bombastic, dry, rosy and woody chypre requires cold weather. A powerful and demanding fragrance, a classic which has stood the test of time. Unfortunately I was a bit too triggerhappy this time so I was on the verge to having headache on  Saturday. 

Jardin Blanc (Maître Parfumeur et Gantier): A beautiful white flower boquet where tubereuse is the major player flourished my Sunday. Well balanced, dense but not heavy, with chords of green and some animalic glimpses from the dept of the fragrance.

Rediscovering fragrances - Prada

This time of the year when the daylight returns and spring is just two months away, I start to crave for brighter and lighter fragrances. Last week I came to think of that I havn't worn my Pradas for ages. The Prada fragrances emphasize a chic, confident, minimalistic elegance, all recognizable as creations of the masterful perfumer Daniela Andrier:

Picture: Prada Infusion d'Iris (2007)
Photo: PR Prada (c)

Infusion d'Iris Edp (2007 version)  is the perfect austere and elegant fragrance for springtime officewear. Of course this iris cold, clean, minimalist-orangeblossom soapy, contemporary classic is proper to wear during the year. I find it's character particularly suited for late winterdays, cold and snowy but bright and light, sometimes with the sun breaking through and the sunrays now strong enough to thaw the snow.

Picture: Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue
Photo: PR Prada (c)

Infusion d'Iris Absolue is delicious, sweeter, darker and thicker in texture. A golden Iris glowing from resins, vanilla and tonka which creates an balsamic oriental iris supported by the orangeflowers as in the original. Somehow I get the impression of a delicate soft, fluffy almondcake in the later stages of the absolue. The elegant gourmand iris.

Picture: Prada Infusion Fleur d'Oranger (2009)
Photo: PR Prada (c)

Infusion Fleur d'Oranger (2009 version) personally I feel more comfortable in this warm, sunny, elegant infusion than in the cold iris. Fleur d'Oranger is on the verge to soapy but it really doesn't passes the line. It is also less sweet than many contemporary styled orangeblossoms The fragrance has an almost vintage appearance without smelling like an old fashioned orangeblossomcentered perfume. Infusion Fleur d'Oranger is a captivating, wearable fragrance for daytime use.

Picture: Prada L'Eau Ambrée
Photo: PR Prada (c)

L'Eau Ambrée balsamic, with light, cleaned up resins and amber which mingles with the faintest glimpses of flowers. The problem is that it seems as I'm partial anosmic to this fragrance. If applied quite liberally, I can smell the beautiful opening which reminds me of a bright and higher pitched variation of the comforting, in comparasion, dark and dense in texture Diptyque Volutes. L'Eau Ambrée is a fleeting but also haunting fragrance, when you think it's gone, it suddenly re-appears in its restrained elegance.

5 fragrances for the the height of summer

Picture: A stroll on the beach (1896)
Painting by Michael Ancher (1849-1927)
Wikimedia commons

The height of the summer is here and here are also five summer favorites 2016:

Aqua Sextius (Jul et Mad): So refreshing with its lime notes and watery texture. Green, wet, minty leaves and a dry woody-figgy accord, Aqua Sextius is perfect for a warm and sunny summerday. Excellent longevity even in high tempratures.

Un Jardin sur le Toit (Hermès):  Ripe fruits, greenery, damp soil and compost in an urban context, there is also a light touch of something that smells like the exhaust in the city air a warm summer day. UJslT is a comfortable fragrance, a fragrance to reach for days when I'm in a hurry and don't know what yo wear.

Eau Parfumee au The Bleu (Bulgari): This cologne really feels blue, the fersh, tea-ish structure of  the classic The Vert with lavender and iris. Hearbal, cool, earthy, combined with some elemets that slightly reminds me of Prada Infusion d'Iris which is no coincidence as the perfumer of both fragrances is Daniela Andrier.

Eau Parfumee au The Noir (Bulgari): This refreshing, leathery beauty could easily be a niche fragrance. Dry with smoky nuances but tea is not as detectable as in the other tea fragrances from Bvlgari. Probably the tea creates some of the smoky vibes and is the factor that lightens up the fragrance. Normally ingredients like in The Noir creates a ticker and heavier texture.

Imperial Tea (By Kilian): From the dark black tea to the regal white jasmine tea from Kilian. Clean and minimalistic, smelling just like a pot of fresh brewed jasmine tea. Very refreshing and easy to wear in summer.

I'm taking a summer break from blogging until August. Wish you a great summer!

Le Galion - Iris

Picture: HRH Katherine Duchess of Cambridge,
in June 2012 - the perfect Iris wearer
Photo: Carfax2, cropped by Surtsicna (cc)
Wikipedia commons, some rights reserved 

Iris is another of the Le Galion soliflores, Tuberéuse is reviewed in the latest post. The original Iris was created by Paul Vacher 1937 and the reorchestration is made by Thomas Fontaine.

Iris starts with a soft carrot note which is not sharp or too earthy. After a while it steps backwards and Iris becomes more flowery when a sweet flowery note similar to violet appears. Until now Iris is quite similar to most comfortable and easy to wear irisfragrances. Then something peculiar happens, a tart green note, similar to celery apperars, offsetting the flowery  sweetness. The celerypart lasts for quite a while, the special green note doesn't disappear completely but it is very discrete in the rest of the flowery, musky drydown of Iris.In this part lily is the dominating flower and to be honeset, not much of the iris is present in the lovely boquet. The base is musky, slight woody in the same style as Tubéreuse but without the light animalic touch of the latter.

Iris, just as Tubéreuse, is an elegant, well made of good ingredients, classic flowery composition, refershing, very easy and comfortable to wear. Longevity is for a day and silage medium. Iris is suitable for daytimewear, perfect as a classy officescent as there is nothing chemical or sharp about it. Iris is a typical "don't know what to wear fragrance" something to put on when one doesn't for something challenging and demanding. Somehow I can imagine Iris is something that HRH Kate, the Duchess of Cambridge would wear.

Those who're searching for a feminine and flowery iris, or more precisely a good floral bouquet which features iris and lily notes, have to try this wonderful fragrance. Iris are in the same octaves on the note scale as Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile. Those who like irisfragrances such as Laboratorio Olfattivo Nirmal (sweeter), Prada Infusion d'Iris Edp (woodier), XeJroff Irisss (irisi-er) and Ramón Monegal Impossible Iris (frutier) would probably also like Le Galion Iris even if the irisnote is more prounanced in most of them compared to LG Iris.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citron, mimosa, hibiscus, iris, lily, rose, galbanum, cedar, amber, musk

The fragrance of New Years Eve

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

As the winter here in the north is the warmest in decades and New Years Eve is more like a mid-autumn or mid-spring day in temprature the choice was also unusual for this day. Instead of a dark and heavy scent I chose a light and transparent fragrance, a sample that I unfortunately have forgotten for over six month but was reminded of when reading all the Best of 2013 lists: Marni (by Marni).

Marni definitly should be included in my Best of 2013 list (or maybe the 2012 if the releasedate on Fragrantica is correct), even if I discovered the last day. It's transparent but in the same time it has strength and lasts, it is both cold and warm in character, refreshing but also comforting and calming. A great mainstream fragrance, created by one of my favorite noses, Daniela Andrier which also created the first female classic of this century: Prada Infusion d'Iris.

The warmer spicy-incense part of Marni reminds me of the from the perfumecommunity surprisingly dissesd 2013 release Vaara from Penhaligons, a fragrance which I like very much. The colder aspects reminds me of one of the early "Noveau Chypres" Perles de Lalique, a more intense, deep and in the same time icy cold, rose-woody combo with characteristic pencilshavingnotes. The rose/incense/spices also reminds me of what Caron Parfum Sacre could be if it would appear in an Eau Fraiche variation. Very oddly a light and smoother trace of the "päronsplit"-note (swedish icecream, vanilla icecream covered with pear-ice, popular among children, more about htis see earlier post on Riktig Parfym) in Angelique Noir glimpses by. or maybe it's not that strange, A N is also created by Daniela Andrier.

A very wearable fragrance, easy to wear, comforting and a good officescent. Will be perfect for the coming spring and also for the winter if these tempratures stays.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, spices, rose, cardamon, cinnamon, vetiver, cedarwood, incense, patchouli

Guerlain - Tonka Imperiale

Picture: Roman Emperors

Source: http://vaticanarthistoriantours.com

Tonka Imperiale is one of the later creations in the Guerlian exclusiveline L’Art et la Matière. Tonka Imperiale is a true warm and slight, gourmand sweet oriental, created by the Guerlain houseperfumer Thierry Wasser.

Tonka Imperiale starts with a warm, sweet but in the same time light and subtle, a bit powdery accord of tonka been. After a while a very balanced note that reminds me of a rounded cedarwood note appears, maybe it's one of the woody notes or maybe it's the mix of wood, herbs and spices that induces this impression. An almost liquorlike note of tobacco, balanced with light, almost not detectable flowers appears and contrasts after a while with "fresher" colder, balmy notes of incense and fir. As in all of the L’Art et la Matière fragrances I have tried so far, the ingedients are so well balanced, rounded and fine tuned that there is hard to distinugue them separately from each other. Tonka Imperiale is no exception It's a very well crafted fragrance with gourmand undertones. In the basenotes there is a slight powdery caramelnote, similar to the one in Prada Candy (in swedish) but darker, less sweet and a bit stronger. In Tonka Imperiale the tonkabeen is not combined with vanilla which is common, and that probably tempers the sweetness to a pleasant, moderate level. In the texture Tonka Imperiale has similarities with the elegant immortelledominated Guerlain Cuir Beluga, it's like a pushier, more masculine (even if unisex) interpreation of a similar theme. Both are beautiful fragrances but Cuir Beluga to my nose, is a bit more original.

Tonka Imperiale is perfect for autumn, winter and the chilly early spring. Even if moderatly sweet I suspect it could be overhelming in warm summerdays. Tonka Imperiale is a true comfort fragrance, it's not overpowering if applied with care and therefore a perfect officescent that brings comfort also to other than the wearer. Sillage is medium and longevity for 24h.

Those who likes the fragrances mentioned above as also Carner Barcelona Tardes, Parfumerie Generale Tonkamande, Etro Heliotrophe and Parfums Nicolaï Kiss me tender , even if the two latter is more floral, will also like Tonka Imperiale

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, rosemary, jasmine, almond, tonkabeen, tobacco, incense, cedar, pine

Guerlain – Iris Ganache

Picture: Three Godiva truffles
Author: Ginny (cc) Wikimedia commons 

Iris Ganache, created by Thierry Wasser is the irisinterpretation in the Guerlain gourmandepos L’Art et la Matiere. Iris Ganache is the first from the line that has been discontinued but some bottles could still be aviable.

Iris Ganache starts with an elegant, wellcrafted iris, almost compleatly without the carrotnote that is present in the more orris-rooty iris interpretations. The iris is blended with a light,  leathernote, like the image of smooth, white or beige colored leather used in a pair of long, glacé-gloves, matching an elegant ball-gown . When Iris Ganache dries down to the middlenotes it becomes sweeter and a note that reminds me of white chocolade occurs: The flowery iris is still there, and brings a coolness that counterbalances the sweetness in a wellblended manner. This impression lasts during the rest of the drydown where the musk, vanilla and patchouli which the blend contains, isn’t recognizable as separate notes but as a wellblended, smooth and pleasant base for the iris-gourmand accord. Iris Ganache is described as containing powdery notes, but to my nose these notes are subdued and just slightly recognizable, to my nose Iris Ganache has an almost bubble bath-y note in the late drydown. Iris Poudre by Parfums Editions Frederic Malle is much more powdery IMO.

Iris Ganache is comfortable and elegant in the same time. It’s a perfect scent both for dressed up occasions as for work to cheer up and to convey a pleasant olfactory presence. The longevity of Iris Ganache is for more than a day and the sillage is close, this is an elegant and subtle skinscent. 

Those who appreciate iris scents in the style of Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris, Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue, Huiteme Art Naiviris and Xerjoff Irisss will probably also like Iris Ganache.

Rating: 4

Notes: Cinnamon, bergamot, iris, white chocolate, patchouli, cedar, musk, vanilla, amber 

Autour d'Parfums - Poudre d'Iris

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Poudre d'Iris is the iris interpretation in the affordable fragranceline from Autour d'Parfums which contains good and priceworthy "down to earth" basic fragrances in the same way as fore example the houses of  Les Nereides and Molinard.

Poudre d'Iris starts like a bit sweeter but in the same time thinner version of the neroli/orangeblossom dominated accord of Prada Infusion d'Iris Edp. After the initial phase, Pd'I becomes sort of wet powdery, like putty in  texture, and a note of almondblossom, with the characteristic (good) smell of the classic swedish paperglue, Carlssons klister, appears. This white glue also has this sort of texture as Pd'I reminds me of. The iris is note the rooty, carrotlike, harsh type, it's velvet flowery, as I image iris would smell if the flower had a scent. In the basenotes Pd'I is almost powdery, edible, gourmand and here it reminds me a bit of Guerlain Tonka Imperiale but softer and less sweet. There is also something with the irismix in Pd'I that reminds me of a quite different fragrance, the classical  80s light spicy floral Turbulences by Revillon

To me Pd'I induces the image of a sheer but in the same time heavy, light purple silkchiffon veil embrodied with gold and amethysts, the exquisite veil of a grand odalisque. Pd'I is very wearable and even if a tad sweeter, just as officefriendly Infusion d'Iris. Longevity is for more than 12h and sillage is close.

Rating: 4

Notes: Neroli, angelica, iris powder, almond blossom, heliotrophe, white musk, almond, sandalwood

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Jardins d'Écrivains - Gigi

Picture: Gigi by Jardins d'Écrivans
Photo: PR Jardins d'Écrivains (c) 

Gigi is the other feminine floral in the literature and garden inspired fragranceline of the house of Jardins d'Écrivains. Gigi is inspired of La Belle Époque and Colettes novel Gigi, about a parisian girl groomed to be a courtesan by her grandmother.

Gigi starts with a sunny accord of orangeblossom, tubereuse and jasmin supported by some fresh greenery and a hint of a cocos note often recognized together with tubereuse, I think it's one facet of the flowers scent. Soon also a subdued fruity note appears which deepens the fragrance just a bit, but the transparant sparkling impression is still dominating. Further in the dry down an almost nailpolish like note (but not in the chemical way) appears but in a pleasant way. I think it's the black currant paired with the, in this stage, nondescript white flowers that creates this effect. The base is moderately woody-musky and supports the other notes in a in a harmonious way.

Moderate I think is the right way to describe Gigi. It's a nice and gentle without any strange passages, a typical IFRA/EU compliant floral fragrance of today. Gigi is not in the putty/powdery/soapy floral genre which is typical for the releases of the latest year, Gigi is clean, transparant, white floral. Unfortunately it seems as my skin almost eat Gigi, and even if there is clear traces left after a day of wearing, the fragrance ends up somehow bland for me. Even the other feminine Jardins d'Écrivains the cologne La Dame aux Camélias appears much clearer, is more distinct and creates images to me, than the Edp Gigi. Gigi is very officefriendly and easy to wear.

Those who likes fragrances like Prada Infusion de Tubereuse, the original Gianfranco Ferré (with the same name) and Ramón Monegal  Kiss My Name and Lovely Day, despite the three latter are way more distinctive and have more expressed personalities, I think also could appreciate Gigi.

Rating: 3

Notes: Freshly cut grass, orangeblossom, neroli, tubereuse, jasmin, blackcurrant, sandalwood,white musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of  Gigi

Oliver & Co - Resina

Picture: Resin from pine
Photo: Meanos (cc) Wikimedia Commons,
some rights reserved

Resina is a natural smelling balsamic, spicy aromatic blend from spanish nichehouse Oliver & Co and as all the fragrances created by the owner of the house; Oliver Valverde.

Resina starts with the balsamic wowen plasternote that I like so much and which is distinct during the whole dry down in Comme des Garcons Jaisalmer but in Resina it soon withdraws from the centerstage as also a almost medical aromatic blast. Then a phase with balsamic, light spicy, unsweet caramellic and light woody notes appears, the ingredients seems almost seamless blended and the fragrances is soft and less aromatic. In this stage Resina gives me the impression of a non-sweet version of Prada Candy (swe) with a note that is very close to sandalwood (but as this ingredient is not listed it has to the skillful blending that creates this effect) instead of the sweet powdery benzoin in Candy. The overall impression of Resina is a natural smelling, warm and comforting fragrance with interesting twists from the spices and resins.

Even if wearable year around Resina IMO is the most cold season friendly fragrance from Oliver & Co. Its non-swetness makes it also possible to wear during the summer even if the warmest days should be avoided.
Longevity is great, 24h and sillage is medium. Beside Mousse, Resina until now is my favorite Olvier & Co fragrance. But who knows, further testings might change this order :-)

Rating. 4+

Notes: Tolu balsam, elemi, myrrh, labdanum, opoponax, jasmine sambac, incense, benzoin, coffee, flame tree, mace, rooibos tea, tonka bean, star anise

Jimmy Choo - Flash

Picture: Flash the latest Jimmy Choo release
Photo by Jimmy Choo (c)

As a longtime parfumista I shouldn't (of course) like Jimmy Choo latest fragrance Flash, but I have to confess, I really do like this mainstream release. Flash, created by experienced perfumer Christine Nagel, is a diluted and thin floral fragrance, so typical for a IFRA/EU compliant 2013 release even though, it has something appealing in its appearance. Maybe it's the contemporay interpreation of the cold white floral notes backed up by some light and spicy notes.

Flash starts flowery with a contemporary stripped down, cold tubereuse matched with a jasmine and a lily handled in the same way. The indolic, animalc notes are far away, and there is also no creamy aspects as for in example the lily dominated Baiser Volé from Cartier. Instead Flash has cold and clean and in the same time pleasant smelling flowers accentuated with a slight just recognizable note of frozen strawberries. The strawberrynote is not particular sweet, I percieve it as wellbalanced. Flash is quite linear in structure, but in the basenotes, some to the chilly impression, contrasing, light spicy, warmer notes appears as also a pleasant slight soapy note. Overall Flash is cold and the pale purple color of the juice is a perfect match to the feeling Flash intermediate: Its texture is like a pale, purple chiffon veil.

Flash is a very uplifting perfume, refreshing and even if pale, somehow distinctive. It's the perfect perfume for days when tired or even with a hang over. Flash is also a comfortable, non-offensive, office fragrance, versatile and a easy choice for days when not knowing what to wear. Flash will also be a good fragrance for spring. Despite Flash is representing the pale and almost bodyless structure of a modern mainstream, the longevity is almost 24h.

There is some similarities in style with the In the Garden of Good and Evil fragrances from ByKilian but Flash is more distinct, less fruity and maybe a bit sharper in edges but it definitly gives a greater value for the money. Another fragrance that strangely comes to my mind when wearing Flash in its basenotes is the transparant, smooth-spicy Rima XI from Carner Barcelona. It's probably the light spiciness just detectable in Flash that is the common link as also the chiffonlike texture of both frgrances even if the Rima XI veil is white where Flash is purple, Rima XI is not flowery at all to my nose. Those who like Prada Infusion deTubereuse could also like Flash.

Rating: 4 *)

*) Even if Flash doesn't reach a 5 rating in the overall assessement, Flash is a fragrance that I personally like very much regardless the overall rating

Notes: Strawberry, tangerine, pink pepper, tubereuse, jasmine, lily, heliothrope, white woods

The mainstream niche

As I strolled around in the local chain-perfumstore some perfumed insights just popped up. In these days when the launches of many nichelines becomes more and more bland and not distinguishable from other niche and mainstream offerings (we can call it "mainstremification" of the niche) an opposing movement occurs automatically when it comes to some "mainstream" parfumes or maybe better referred to "designer"parfumes. Just looking around in the ordinary assortment of the chainstore I visited, I came to some conclusions:

- The classics still remaining in the assortment  is way more interesting then the majority of the new niche realeases. A perfume that have survived five to ten years or more, even if gradually reformulated, has stood the test of time and is something special. Examples: Rive Gauche (YSL), No 5 & Coco (Chanel), Angel & Alien (Thierry Mugler), Infusion d'Iris (Prada), Aromatic Elixir (Clinique)

- There are good new releases too, even if increasingly rarer (in relative terms) i.e exactly the same phenomen as in the niche sector. From the latest two years: Esprit d'Oscar (Oscar de la Renta), Le Parfum (Elie Saab),  No 19 Poudre (Chanel), Body (Burberry), Candy (Prada).

- The, in some cases quite distinctive reformulations of some fragrances, with the new Dior policy as a hallmark, suddenly makes a ten year old bottle with an pre-reformulation formula to an almost niche fragrance. Examples are of course in particualar from the Dior range: Dior Addict, Dune, Miss Dior Cherie Edp. I will  definitely treasure my (not so) old Diors :-).

-This store had a tester of Miss Dior labled as that and not the new Miss Dior Originale. I bet the MDO version formula is somehow tweaked too.

When writing this I'm yearning for these and other distinctive "mainstream" fragrances. As I'm almost always  sampling different nichefragrances, a week or two in "mainstream" would be a great relief.

Ramón Monegal - Umbra

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Umbra the vetiverinterpretation by Ramón Monegal starts like a green, clean vetiver with some deep almost citruslike notes. The citruslike is not the usual light, sparkling one, and I suspect the impression emerges from the combination of other notes. Peppery notes are also emerging as the topnotes evolves, but more as supporters and not as distinct as the ginger-peppery effect in Prada Infusion d'Vetiver. The opening ackord is the part of Umbra that reminds me most of other vetivers but soon Umbra finds its own path: Umbra gets sweeter then the common vetiverfragrance and almost resiny, balmy, floral as it developes. Probably the geranium contributes to the green floral feeling. The dry down is exciting and unusual, the vetiver doesn't stands out like in the most straightforward light, rooty green vetivers.The vetivernote is restrained of the sweet, powdery tonka been in the base and despite the tonka sweetness. there is an aura of green, refreshing, moist, woody sweetness in Umbra. In the base a beautiful mossy note, similar to the one in Mon Patchouly also emerges and is present during the rest of the extended dry down of Umbra.

In lightness and texture Umbra reminds me about Prada Infusion d'Vetiver and Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver but both these fragrances are more of straight forward, contemporary representants of the classical rooty, grassy vetiver fragrance. The vetiver that comes to my mind with some similarities with Umbra later stages is Andy Tauers smooth and gentle Vetiver Dance but this is more a cosy vanillia-vetiver where Umbra is more of an elegant chypre. Both fragrances has also in comman that they follows their own interesting path in the world of vetiver. The general impression of Umbra can be summeraized as the picture and smell of the coolness of the mossy, forest floor under high pines a summerday.

Even if classified as unisex I precieve Umbra as the most feminine vetiver I have sniffed so far. Umbra is definitly a vetiver that I will be delighted to wear as I usually have some "problems" with the more sharp, rooty "manly" versions. Umbra appears to be so wellcrafted and well thought out compared to many other representatives of the genre which smells like variations of the same theme compared to Umbras individuality. Even if Umbra is somehow relaxing, it's engaging to follow what is going on and trying to figure out what's happening next, during the dry down of the fragrance.

Umbra is suitable both for office and for dressed-up casual, year around but wears very well in the summer. Heavy appliers beware: Strong in concentration as in the case of almost every RM fragrance, two - three spritzes lasts for long. Sillage is more than medium and longevity about 24h.

Rating: 5

Notes: Vetiver, oakmoss, black pepper, geranium, fir, tonka bean

Huitième Art - Sucre d'Ebene

Bild: Venezuelan sugar cane (Saccharum) harvested for processing

Foto: Rufino Uribe (cc) Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

For review in english, scroll down

I Sucre d'Ebene har Pierre Guillaume verkligen lyckats framhäva just socker. Det är ett lagom sött, inte så raffinerat (i meningen renat) utan ett mörkt socker i oregelbundna bitar som karvats av från en sockerklump. Efter ett tag känns det som om sockret är upphettat och krystalliserat över en créme bruleé, en behaglig dessertkänsla infinner sig. Sockret och bruleén varar sedan tämligen linjärt under hela dagen, det ska finnas trä i basen och det finns säkert där för att väga upp sötman. Spåren av kåda, benzoin, är i så fall tydligare.

Det finns något i Sucre d'Ebene som påminnner om Pradas Candy, troligen är det båda dofternas anknytning till sötsaker. Candy upplever jag som ljusare, pudrigare och lättare medan Sucre d'Ebene är en tätare och mörkare komposition. En annan doft som det finns likheter med är den dammiga pappersnoten i Boucherons Trouble. Sucre d'Ebene är en riktig komfortdoft i kallt och ruggigt väder. Den har god hållbarhet och passar dagtid i de flesta sammanhang. Provet kommer från Fragrance & Art

In Sucre d'Ebene, Pierre Guillaume really managed to highlight the texture of sugar. It is not the refined white sugar but a moderately sweet, dark sugar carved in irregular pieces from a sugar loaf. After a while it feels just as if the sugar is heated up and is crystalized over a creme brulee, a pleasant feeling of a smooth dessert arises. The sugar and brulée lasts then fairly linear throughout the day, with wood  added in the base to offset the sweetness. There is also clear traces of resiny notes as for exemple some powdery benzoin.

There is something in Sucre d'Ebene that's remindes me of Prada Candy, probably that both scents are associated with sweets. I find Candy to be lighter and more powdery , while Sucre d'Ebene is a denser and darker composition. In Sucre d'Ebene, although sweet, I also (oddly) feel traces of the dusty paper note of Trouble Boucheron . Sucre d'Ebene is a real comfort scent in cold and chilly weather. The longevity is good and it is suitable for daytime wear in most contexts. The sample comes from Fragrance & Art

Rating: 4

Notes Socker, benzoin, trä/sugar, benzoin,woody notes

Huitième Art - Ambre Ceruleen

Bild: Chinese Crested Dog - Powderpuff

Foto: Tommy Gildseth (cc) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

For summary in english, scroll down. 

Känns som den gode Pierre Guillaume haft lite för bråttom är han blandat ihop Ambre Ceruleen. I och för sig en helt annan stil en hans utmanande L'Ombre Fauve (se review häromdagen) för Parfumerie Générale Private Collection men ändå. En lätt och ljus, lite retropudrig ambra som efter toppnoterna stannar kvar i samma ackord resten av dagen. Mysig och mjuk som en angoratröja att burra in sig i en kall dag men doften tillför ingenting. Tankarna går till Molinards Ambre när det gäller framtoningen, men Molinards Ambre är mer originell med sin kristalliserade, karamellnot. Även Pradas Candy dyker upp i den inre biografen, men den är i mitt tycke mer intressant som helhet. Konstigt nog anges inte ambra som ingrediens men ambra ackord tas fram av variationer på orientaliska ackord, här finns benzoin, tonkaböna och sandelträ. Labdanum och cistus är, om jag inte missminner mig, komponenter som brukar finnas med i mörkare ambraackord.

Summa sumarum: Ambre Ceruleen är en helt ok lätt ambradoft, icke påträngande och bärbar överallt, när som helst, utom när det är varmt på sommaren. Provet kommer från Fragrance & Art

Over all Ambre Ceruleen is a quite ok light amberstyled scent, non-intrusive and wearable anywhere, anytime, except when it is hot in the summer. The clean and innocent Ambre Ceruleen is the direct opposite to PG:s dirty amber L'Ombre Fauve, reviewed earlier this week. Ambre Ceruleen has some similarities with Molinards Ambre but I think that one is more interesting with it's caramelized note. Also Pradas Candy comes to my mind but as more complex and interesting than the well-adjusted, well-blended, cute, angora puffy Ambre Ceruleen. Ambre Ceruleen is a good choice to those who want at light, proper and clean amber that is comforting and doesn't disturb anyone. The sample tested comes from Fragrance & Art 

Rating: 3

Noter: Verbena, tonkabönor, sandelträ, opoponax /verbena, tonkabeen, sandalwood, opoponax

Osorterat om parfym så här i elfte timmen av 2011...

Bild: Mysko stenformation från sommaren 2011.

Snart är vi där igen! Foto Herr Parfumista (c)

Så var det då nyårsafton igen och jag får inte ihop något stort, intelligent och sammanfattande inlägg över parfymåret som gått. Här kommer istället aktuella parfymtankar och liknande, kanske speglar det i sitt osorterade skick ända parfymåret 2011.

* Är den tvättmedelsnot av typen dyrt, lyxtvättmedel som vi numera känner i kreationer från nichehus som Maison Francis Kurkdjian, APOM pour Femme respektive APOM pour Homme, L'Eau Serge Lutens och Puredistance Antonia, ersättaren för den härligt tvåliga not som fanns i det sena sjuttio- och det tidiga åttitalets häftiga aldehydparfymer. Fast denna megasoapiness anses idag tydligen som daterad. Får bara vara en bråkdel som i Pradas Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger som ändå blir utskälld. Detta medans tvättmedelsnoten ändå slinker igenom, dock under en del kritik, men då mer utifrån att den tillhör "mainstream" än noten som sådan.

* Viktig info till alla Dior Homme älskare som vill hamstra originalversionen. Klipp ur kommentar från Pojkfröken som precis som vanligt har örnkoll på läget:

"Åh, Dior Homme! Jämförde originalet med reformuleringen nyligen och skillnaden är påtaglig, den mer klara irisnoten är inte där längre :(( men den är fortfarande bra, nevertheless. Versionerna skiljer sig åt gm att originalet har kromat "rör" och nyutgåvan har ett svart."

Alltså håll koll på rören!

* Appropå Dior, parfymhuset som personifierar varumärkesvanvård. Det sägs att man reformulerar om det mesta för närvarande, som jag nämnt i ett tidigare inlägg (våras/tidig sommar) om att man "tar hem" dofterna från de stora doftföretagen som äger själva formulan. När man sedan ska blanda själv måste man ändra ganska märkbart i kompositionen så att det inte kan klassas som ett plagiat av den formula som doftföretaget äger.

* Det är alltså med tanke på ovan inte särskilt konstigt att mötas av den trista nyheten att en av mina vinterfavoriter Dior Addict tydligen bara är en skugga av sitt forna jag, en flytande vålnad. Har själv inte doftat på reformuleringen men gjorde det med Dune vilket inte var någon trevlig upplevelse. Det positiva är att jag plötsligt sitter på en vintage Addict med en flaska från 2007.

* När det gäller alla Best of 2011 listor som precis publicerats så är de ganska lika i temat. Klart är i alla fall att jag måste sniffa på Bottega Veneta för den finns med på nästan varenda lista. Frågan är om den klår MPG:s Cuir Fetiche, det verkar som om färre har sniffat på den.

* Så till doften för aftonen, det blir fullt klart en hyllning till Mona. Antingen en skvätt av Oud eller Nuit Noire som jag hade nyårsafton för två år sedan. NN passar nyårsaftnar tycker jag. Tubereuse är också en runner up i det vårvinterliknande vädret.

* På tal om svenskars favoritämne vädret: Jag tycker att den varma vintern är très bien! Jag känner för att använda nästan alla delar av parfymgarderoben, undantag de allra lättast blommiga som typ Diorissimo men jag får säkert snart en dragning även till denna typ av doft. Det har ju börjat ljusna, i alla fall i teorin. De senaste två vargavintrarna har det blivt ett ganska ensidigt användande av orientaler och gourmander, dessa trevliga doftfamiljer får alltså tuff konkurrens den här vintersäsongen. Oj, nu känner jag plötsligt för en doft som jag förknippar med tidig vår: Donna Karan Gold.

* Nyårslöften, är så trött på detta, för de fallerar redan i slutet av januari varje år och slår snarare över åt andra hållet. De brukar vara: Nästan köpstopp på flaskor, prova de prover jag har mer och vara restriktiv med nya provanskaffningar. I år struntar jag i detta och kommer därmed säkert att lyckas bättre men parfym är ju mitt stora intresse so what the heck.....

* Har som sista projekt 2011 börjat twittra.Visserligen ännu ett tidskonsumerande moment i en vardag fylld av tidsbrist. Men det är ett bra format att sända iväg en och annan parfymerad tanke och väldigt lämpad för att få en överblick av mina SOTD:s (Scent Of To¨Day). Dessutom att sätt att träna på att bli mer kortfattad, har en tendens att bli långrandig när jag är inne i mitt favoritämne. Nu har jag just varit mer än lovligt långrandig och:

Jag önskar alla Parfymälskare (och eventuella andra som råkat hamna här) ett Gott Nytt 2012!

Maison Francis Kurkdjian - APOM pour Femme

Bild: Satellite image of Lebanon in March 2002,

NASA (cc), Wikimedia commons

APOM eller "A Part Of Me" har fått sin olifactoriska inspiration från parfymören Francis Kurkdjians resor till sina förfäders hemland Libanon. I APOM har dofterna från apelsin- och cederträlundarna tolkats av mästerparfymören. APOM finns också i en herrversion där den stora skillnaden är att ylang-ylang ersatts av ambra.

APOM pour Femme är en doft som samtidigt som att den känns väldigt rent, modern, lite åt sköljmedelshållet men absolut inte stickigt eller billigt, har klara retrovibbar och ger associationer till trettiotalet. Apelsinblommenoten är frisk och klar samtidigt som den vilar i en kritig, kalkig nyans som ger en torr pudrighet till doften. Cederträet är lagom nedtonat och blir aldrig för skarpt eller stickigt som i bland är fallet. APOM är linjär i sin karaktär men ändå intressant då den pendlar fram och tillbaka under dagen mellan det moderna uttrycket med utflykter i retro inslaget. Doften är mycket starkare än det intryck man först får när den appliceras så varning för överdos.

APOM är en ren och elegant doft som passar till en krispigt vit skjorta särskilt vår och sommar men också för att pigga upp under den mörka årstiden. Perfekt för arbetsplatsen, den är inte svår eller påträngade, bara dosen hålls under kontroll. Jämfört med några andra ljusa apelsinblommedofter så är Pradas Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger sötare och mycket mer våt och tvålig, annars är dofterna ungefär lika ljusa i tonen och ungefär lika starka, Serge Lutens Fleurs d'Oranger mycket mer stort åttiotalsblommig och med större inslag av andra vita blommor som tuberrose och jasmin. Det är också något i stilen som påminner om en annan apelsinblommedominerad Kurkdjian-kreation, Fleur de Male för Jean Paul Gaultier men den senare är mer aromatisk och tyngre i strukturen. Sedan finns förstås också Elie Saab Le Parfum som är något av en budgettolkning av APOM. Recenserad i förra inlägget.

Sammanfattningsvis är APOM pour Femme väldigt användbar och en av de bästa apelsinblommedofterna i mitt tycke. En verklig favorit!

Betyg: 5

Noter: Apelsinblomma, ylang-ylang, cederträ.

Prada – Candy

Bild: A photograph of Butter Tablet. Foto:Serafim Whipp,

(cc) Wikimedia commons

Med Pradas Candy var det många som förväntade sig att Pradas eminenta husnäsa Daniela Andrier skulle ha skapat en ny inriktning för husets dofter. När det gäller den kitschiga kartongen och flaskan stämmer det, de är inte traditionellt ”Prada-kompatibla”. När det gäller själva doften, stämmer det (som tur är) inte. Även om Candy är något sötare än tidigare releaser så känns den typiska Pradabasen med husnoten ljust träig iris igen från första spritsen tills det att basen torkat ut.

Precis i starten finns det en tydlig och snabbt förbiflygande not av Infusion d’Iris, något som skapar igenkänning och trygghet för bäraren. I toppen, som brygga till mellanregistret, finns en träig not som påminner om doften av en torr vedklabbe som man precis fjuttat på. Sedan inträder en fas som är klassisk men tolkad på ett modernt, skalat, lite lätt syntetiskt, sätt: En pudrig, kittig och lätt kådighet, Candy sägs i storytellingen bestå av höga doser benzoin, som ger en slags läppstiftkänsla. Detta övergår sedan i det diskret karamelliga som ändå givit doften sitt namn.  Det karamelliga är lagom sött och påminner om de hårda, ljust kolafärgade, pudrade, karameller som säljs(såldes?) i en grå, rund plåtburk, minns inte vad de heter. Toffèe någonting? Doften stannar sedan i karamellfasen under resten av dagen även om ibland noterna av hett, torrt trä och stänk av Infusion d’Iris snabbt kan anas.

Candy ger trots sina ingredienser, ett traditionellt Prada-kyligt intryck och är alltså i mitt tycke inget nyskapande för linjen. Det är, trots kyligheten, fråga om en riktig komfortdoft som inte kräver så mycket av bäraren. Projektionen är strax under medel och hållbarheten under dagen är ganska bra. Hållbarheten räcker inte riktigt ända fram det vill säga att den doftar ofragmenterat efter en hel dags bärande, men nästan. Likheter ser jag främst med Pradas övriga Daniela Andrier dofter, Candy ger mig en liknande känsla som L’Eau Ambrèe.

Betyg: 4

Noter: Karamell, benzoin, mysk

Mona di Orio - Jabu

Bild: Orange blossom and oranges, photo taken by Ellen Levy Finch (c)

Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved.

For an english version, scroll down to the previous post.

Mona di Orios Jabu domineras av apelsinblomma men har samtidigt andra djupare nyanser än många andra inom genren. Jabu betyder glädje på Zulu och 10 % av intäkterna från Jabu går till ett hjälpprojekt för HIV-smittade mödrar och barn i Afrika. Det är många som dissar Mona di Orios dofter men jag gillar de flesta. Jag dras ibland till och med till mitt prov av den svåra, gröna Amyitis. Jabu är en betydligt mer lättburen doft än Amyitis.

Jabu är en varm och omfamnande doft. Den har en del likheter med Pradas Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger men Pradan som är en EDT är mer transparent och väldigt tvålig (på mig). Jabu känns mer diskret elegant, som en mjukare, tätare och liksom fetare apelsinblommedoft. Den har också mindre projektion, kanske på grund av högre koncentration, den är en EDP och troligen mer inslag av naturliga ingredienser. IdFdO är mycket mer högljudd och känns mer i karaktären som en badprodukt. Jabu har många andra noter som samspelar med apelsinblomman. En bit in i doften känns tydligt en fas med myrra, den friska champinjonliknande noten från Serge Lutens La Myrrhe anas. där apelsinblomman hela tiden finns med i skiftande nyanser och en viss brödig ton. Basen är en varm, len mix av honung och (fortfarande) myrra. I det här stadiet påminner Jabu mycket en del om Annick Goutals Myrrhe Ardente. Doften sitter bra, spår av myrra anas morgonen därpå.

Jabu är en doft att bli glad av och som framkallar känslan av riktigt varmt och soligt väder. Jag tycker att Jabu kan bäras året om, som en värmare på vintern och på sommaren som en doft som pallar trycket för lite hetta utan att försvinna efter några timmar. Jabu är en riktig komfortdoft som jag gärna skulle vilja ha mer än ett prov av.

Betyg: 5

Noter: Petit grain, apelsinblomma, ros, kokosnöt, benzoin, honung, plommon, amyris (en citronträds besläktad buskväxt vars kåda är starkt doftande och ibland används som ett urvattnat substitut för sandelträ)