Van Cleef & Arpels - Un Air de First

Picture: Jasminum sambac 'Grand Duke of Tuscany'
Photo: Scott Zona (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons

Un Air de First is a new interpretation by perfumer Nathalie Gracia-Cetto to celebrate the 35th anniversery of the first Van Cleef & Arpels fragence, the classic First created by Jean-Claude Ellena.

Un Air de First is a proper name for this fragrance, it is airier and cleaner than the original during the whole developement of the fragrance. It starts aldehydic, flowery, green but the flowers are fruity and bright compared to the soapy and heavier flowers of First. I also pervieve the flowers of Un Air de First as perdominantly clean and white (even the rose is white) wheras Firsts flowers are heavier and with a higher degree of yellow flowers. Pretty soon in the drydown, a note that almost smells like fresh tobacco appears in  Un Air de First. Galbanum is als glimpsing but not as noticable as in First. Later on the tobacco is lit and a clean note of cigarettesmoke appears accompanying the jasmine. The notemix is not at all dirty as in Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmine et Cigarettes but it's not as dry and subtle as in M.Micallef Royal Vintage, it's more round and fruity. Un Air de First continues to dry down in a lipsticky, aldehydic flowery manner and is underscored by a musky slight woody base.

Picture. Un Air de First
Photo: PR Van Cleef & Arpels (c)

Un Air de First has succeded to perserve the spirit of the original, just as Balmain with the new interpretation of Ivoire where the new version is fruitier and brighter than the original. The fact that the spirit of First is perserved is also proved by Mr Parfumistas comments about a " much too ladylike scent". I think Un Air de First is sort of contemporary ladylike and as it's very strong, one have to be careful with application, it is not airy=light. The sillage is great and as also the longevity, about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Galbanum, Peach, Fruity Notes, Jasmine, Rose, Green Notes, Vetiver, White Musk

Guerlain - Myrrhe et Delires

Picture:  Commiphora myrrha by Franz Eugen Köhler,

 Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen,1897, Wikipedia commons

Myrrhe & Delires is the latest creation in the Guerlain L'Art et Matiere-line. It's created by the current Guerlaan inhouse perfumer Thierry Wasser.

Myrrhe & Delires starts sort of resinous, fresh and airy. There is also an accord that reminds me of classical, oriental/chypre perfumes fleeting in and out in the basic structure of the perfume during the top and middlenotes. The classical accord reminds me of the typical chic "french" smell of Balenciaga Prelude and also hints of Quadrille from the same house. This typical french-chic note is also present in Balmain Ivoire vintage version even if the latter fragrance is green, aldehydic, flowery, soapy which is not the case with the former fragrances. Quite early in the dry down the to some myrrhe fragrances typical licorie note appears. In M&D this note is light and airy, contrasting to for example Huitieme Art Myrrhiad (in swedish), is dark, dense and mysterious compared to M&D. There is also a streak of the cold, dark, slight smoky accord of Juliette Has A Gun Calamity J. but tuned down and expressed in a softer and smoother way. The rest of the dry down is soft, sweet, resinous and retains the airy interpretation of licorie. To me the opening accords (as with most of the fragrances I have tried from the L'Art et Matiere-line )  are the most interesting part of the fragrance, but the linear dry down that follows later is beautiful, very comforting and easy to wear. To my nose there are some similarities between the composition of the base of Tonka Imperiale and Myrrhe & Delires as also with Cuir Beluga.

As Myrrhe & Delires is'nt overly sweet and almost airy in it's texture, the fragrance is wearable for both day and evning during the whole year, except for the warmest days in the summer. Sillage is close, longevity about 24h.

Those who likes Annick Goutal Myrrhe Ardente, Serge Lutens La Myrrhe (in swedish) and Mona di Orio Jabu (even if myrrhe in Jabu is just a supporting note) will probably enjoy Myrrhe & Delires too.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot grapefruit, osmanthus, jasmine, rose, violet leaf; patchouli, incense, tonka bean, vanilla, myrrh, licorice

Frapin - Paradis Perdu

Photo: View of the World's Fair, Paris, France,
engraving 1889, Wikimedia Commons

Paradis Perdu the latest fragrance from the also in perfumery so successful venerable house of brandy, Frapin, is created by perfumer Amélie Bourgeois.Paradis Perdu is inspired of the temporary iron and glass palaces of the Paris World Fair 1889. The pavilions, showing their iron lacework foundations, celebrated the rise of industry and the "Art Nouveau". The Eiffel Tower was completed to the fair and its entrance arch. From this time the house of Frapin has an unique storehouse created by the master of ironconstructions, Gustave Eiffel.

Paradis Perdu opens with green, juicy notes, like long blades of grass swaying in the wind an early, warm and sunny autumnday. A distinguishable and natural grapefruitnote are present during the the first part of Paradis Perdu, a non-catpie sulfatic grapefruitnote, something that I have positivly experienced in some fragances lately. Maybe there has been some developement of the grapefruitformula lately as the grapefruit is much more pleasing today than some years ago. Later on Paradis Perdu highlights dry hayish notes, contrased with fuller notes of slightly fermented grapes, after all, Frapin is a cognacmanufactur. In this stage the overall impression of Paradis Perdu is similar to Jour d'Hermès. An almost fizzy galbanum and a bright vetiver are also evident. The best part of Paradis Perdu in my opinion is the contrasting, dark, smoky, tarry woody, mossy, resinbase with some traces of wine, a base that reminds me of a much less bomastic and smoother version of the base of Copper Skies by Kerosene. In the base, darker and lighter passages interactes, the lighter ones, dominated by a fresh vetiver. Reaching the basenotes, is like  experience the chilly and crisp autumnevening just when the sun has went down.

To me Paradis Perdu the first 2/3 are light considering it's a Frapin fragrance. The basenotes are deeper, fuller and more Frapin-styled. Paradis Perdu perfectly pictures an early autumn day, from the crisp sunny beginning, over the warmer, sunnier, fuller and sweeter middle of the day to the chilly and fast darkening evening. Two days after my full wearing day of Paradis Perdu I put on the same jacket as I worn the testingday and smelled something very familiar: Ivoire from Pierre Balmain. On fabric Paradis Perdu has transformed to a more homogeneous fragrance than I experienced it on skin.

Picture: Paradis Perdu
Photo: PR Frapin

Sillage is close and longevity 12h+. Perfect for autumn but will also be good for spring, especially the earlier stages of Paradis Perdu. Paradis Perdu catches (like some other perfumes* the latest year) parts from different parfumes/parfumstyles and could therefore please a wide range of perfumelikings.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, citron, mandarin, basil, spinach, vine, ravensara, galbanum, elemi, paradisamide, vetiver, hay, cedarwood, rosewood, labdanum, precious woods, moss, musk

*) Kerosene Copper Skies was the first fragrance obvious with this concept (to my nose), Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena is another one.

Oriza L.Legrand - Déjà Le Printemps

Picture: The Return of Spring (Le Printemps)
Oil on canvas by William-Adolphe Bouguereau, 1886
Wikimedia commons

Déjà Le Printemps is the fourth fragrance in the great Oriza L.Legrand collection that I had the pleasure to try. Reviews of the others Rêve d'Ossian, Relique D'Amour and Oeillet Louis XV are published already published the latest months. The fragrances are created by Elisabeth Feydeau.

Déjà Le Printemps is just what the name indicates, a spring fragrance. A beautiful, lasting and unusual green fragrance. The marketing blurb is just on the spot:"A promenade in the wood awakening from a long winter sleep. Morning dew is glistening like a beads on a wild grasses which exude fresh flavor. The sun rises and its rays awaken wet flowers and fragrant leaves of fig trees swaying by wind. Tree buds swollen with young leaves, flower buds ready to bloom, and the earth, with its smell of turf and twisted roots, full of vitality. The first lilies of the valley reveal itself. It’s spring awakening. Spring has come."

Déjà Le Printemps starts with the green smell of the crisp, green, leaves of flower bulbs accompanied by fresh, light green grass. This green smell is almost always a bit sharp but in DLP the leaves are embedded in a note tha smells like a delightful, soft  suede. This suede accord I could recognize in a rougher and bolder presentation in for exmple Ava Luxe Film Noir.

As DLP dries down the suedenote recedes step by step and the green accords becomes  more spakling and radiant. There is also an almost tart crisp flowery note with a touch of orange which I can image as hints of  Lily of the Valley and orangeblosssom. There is alsosome alomst herbal green flower which could be the clover mentioned among the notes. Overall the flowery notes are playing in the background balancing the fresh leaves and grass. When DLP settles in the basenotes, the suede note slowly appears again, accompanied by deeper green notes as moss and vetiver.

Déjà Le Printemps is very uplifting and joyful to wear. It evokes the impression of sun even if grey outside. Therefore it's suitable not only for spring and summer, it's also comforting during the darker and colder months.

Those who like fragrances as Puredistance Antonia, Balmain Vent Vert and Ivoire, Chanel No 19 Edt, Parfums de Nicolaï  Week-End à Deauville (swe) and Van Cleef & Arpels First will certainly also like the gem (emerald) Déjà Le Printemps.

Rating: 5

Notes: Mint, orangeblossom, chamomile, fig leaves,clove, mown grass, lily of the valley, galbanum, musk, vetiver, cedar, moss

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Déjà Le Printemps

Best of 2012

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

When it comes to perfumereleases 2012 was a good year bringing some beautiful stuff to us Parfumistas.
Here are my top ten from what I have sampled of the 2012:s in no particular order:

Nuit Etoilée (Annick Goutal): NE was a growing liking for me, it unfolds it's full beauty in the summerheat.
Urban, woody-herbal to me.

Impossible Iris (Ramon Monegal): Probably this was released before 2012 but as the exceptional Ramon Monagal line was launched internationally this year I include it. An elegant iris that is amplified by a light berrynote and contrasting flowers. A harmonious blend.

Ivoire (Balmain): What a sucessful reformulation! I like this fruity and sparkling version even better than the stricter original galbanum-accentuated Edt which is a great classic.

Opardu (Puredistance) Dreamy, elegant, powdery lilac that captures the spirit of the Paul Poiret fashion of the 1910s. Already a classic in my book.

Chypre Palatin (Parfums MDCI): Retrostyled with the dry gunpowdernote that I appreciate so much. And some slight animalic notes lurking in the background.

Poudre de Riz (Huiteme Art): Boozy notes and subdued tropical flowers in a dry powdery context creates an elegant, retrostyled fragance.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete (Guerlain): This wellbalanced spicy, leather, oud with a intricate note of jasmine and cardamom is my favourite of the Les Deserts de Orient trio. At the moment at least, Rose Nacree du Desert comes close and could take over some day.

Dama Bianca (XerJoff): Wellbalanced white flowers contrasted by a wheat-malt note over a beautiful base of vanilla. The elegant comfortscent of the year.

Oud Stars Al-Khatt (XerJoff): Elegant, creamy, white flowers with jasmine as mainplayer, interacting with a beautiful laotian oud. As Ubar in an oud-interpretation.

Rose Etoile de Hollande (Mona di Orio): A soft, dark, velvety, resiny, medium pink rose, retro in style. The last creation of Mona, named to her honour by her businesspartner Jeroen Oude Sogetoen.

Vero Kerns beautiful chypre Mito, the leather/tobacco Speakeasy (Frapin), the woody-spicy Bois Noir (Robert Piguet) and the Neela Vermeire Creations trio Bombay Bling, Trayeé and  Mohur should also be mentioned among the best of 2012.

If I had to choose just ONE it would be Opardu for its timeless features and its appearance. It's almost as I'm sniffing a classical floral-powdery Guerlain or even a classical Chanel in the style of No 22.

My nose is out of order....

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Having a tough cold since Thursday, couldn't smell a note during the whole Friday with Mona di Orio Vétyver which all in a sudden became my SOTD . Thankfully I now seem to recover, could recognize whiffs now and than of the SOYD Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte and most of (I think) the powerful Amouage Lyric Woman of today. It seems as I finally got Lyric, maybe it need to be filtrated thorough a stuffy nose to give me the right impression.

Anyway, let's got to the point with this entry: The cold has compleatly messed up my disiplinated test-and-review schedule. Often I try to have a link between the scents reviewed  the same week. Some common denominator or theme, for examples fragrances from the same house and even better resembling frags from the same house, or frags with the same dominating note or style or frags that somehow causes the same perception, or seasonal frags, or frags or the same perfumer and so one. Last week the common link was elegant, new launches with a retro flair the new ie Ivoire and Opardu. As the cold broke out there where one review of each of three different themes for the coming weeks compleated and as it's impossible to catch up there will be a mixed theme next week. Hopefully there is possible to return to the "theme concept" the week after the coming week.

Balmain - Ivoire (new)

Picture: Place Vendome, a picture of  the spirit of Ivoire.

Photo by Dimitris Distigues  (CC) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

The 1980 classic Ivoire de Balmain is re-launched 2012 (this week in Sweden) in a new and very successful interpretation/formulation created by Michel Alamirac and Jacques Flori.

The new interpretation of Ivorie starts much smoother and gentler than the older galbanum-tinged formula with elegant fruity-flowery notes. The pleasant fruitiness has an accompning role inr the middlenotes where elegant flowery interpretations of are mingeled with the traditional galbanum of old Ivoire in a considerably lighter dose. An interesting twist is the addition of some slight peppery notes. It sounds hazardly for such an elgant blend as Ivoire but the pepperiness is so skillfully handled, it's acting in the background as an uplifting note that gives sparkle to Ivoire and I don't percieve the spritzy-sharpness that are present in many peppery creations.  The soapiness of the old Ivoire is tuned down a bit in the earlier stages of the new, this is not strange at all as the galbanum isn't preseant in the early stage. As Ivoire continues to dry down the similarities, among them the lovely sopainess, with the older formula are even more obvious, despite the fact that the soapiness is of a smoother and gentler kind. It intermediates the feeling of wearing a soft, white cashmerejumper, the same feeling as I precieved with the wonderful lilyinterpreation Cartier Baiser Volé. In the elegant base which mediates a vintage sense of mossiness, the new Ivoire has much in common with the old version, to me it's like the more Ivoire dries down, the closer to the old Ivoire it appears. The expression of both the fragrances is the same and I can recognise the same structure and scent but the new Ivoire has a smoother, gentler and fruitier aura as the older is greener, sharper, rougher and more edgy.

The new Ivoire also preserves the same very french elegance as the older version. Ivoire still reminds me of an elegant french lady in a well-cutted, less-is-more, ivory silkdress, dining at a likewise elegant restaurant a bit cool summer evening at a place like Place Vendome. Ivoire creates the same feeling of elegance as Puredistances Antonia even if Antonia is edgier and closer to the original Ivoire whit its charactersitic note of galbanum. The casual-chic daytime alternative to Ivoire, a scent with resembling notes but interpreted in outdoor style is one of my all time favorites Hermès Amazone.

Both versions of Ivoire is definitly worth owning for the lovers of the old Ivoire, they are great complements to each other, where the newer "contemporary" version is a bit easier to wear and I also think it appeals to a wider group of perfumebuyers than the orignal. Besides the fragrances mentioned above I also think that people that enjoys Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens will like Ivoire, both the new and old version, fans of Chanel No 19 Poudre I think will appreciate the new Ivoire.

The longevity of Ivoire is very good, it lasts over a whole day to late in the evening.

Rating: 5

Notes: mandarin, violet, orange, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, black pepper, galbanum, vanilla, vetiver, cedarwood, patchouli

Van Cleef & Arpels - First

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

First was the first fragrance of the jewellerhouse Van Cleef & Arpels and it was the startingpoint for jewellers also bringing out perfumes under their brands. Later Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgarí etc followed. First was launched in 1976 and is among the earlier perfumes of the master of transparency, Jean-Claude Ellena.

But First is anything but transparent. This is a huge, soapy, aldehydic, floral. The flowers are green, crispy bulbs, flowers of the early spring as tulips, hiacynts, narcissus, daffodils and lilly of the vally. And lots of other potent flowers as tubereuse, orchid, jasmine etc. But there is also a warm fruitiness in First which balances the green, slight chilly, crispiness of the bulbs and gives the composition a warm and sunny feeling. To all this, First is all about soap. The aldehydes lends the composition a well behaved but very distinct soapiness that many consider to be oldfashioned, and probably it is. But to me the soapiness gives First a retro vibe, it is an element that signs First to it's time, the late seventies and early eighties.

Other fragrances that reminds me of First is first of all :-) K de Krizia, the notes are very similar and they smell very close to each other. Ivoire by Balmain is in the same sopy style but I perceive that one as less bold flowery. From Ivoire the line goes to a contemporary, and therefore much more restraint interpretation, Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens. BdS focuses on iris and hiacynth but conveys the same feeling in appearance as First, translated to our zeitgeist. Also Amouages Dia has similarities with First, but Dia is, in my opinion, much more tuned down. First is a alternative to Dia, acheiving a similar effect but much more affordable.

First (I have tested the current EDP version) has an excellent longivity, it is present for a whole day, also in tough conditions: It lasted even after more than two hours in the swimmingpool. Not exactly the right enviroment for an elegant creation as First. First is for dressed up occasions during daytime or meetings where you need to take a centerplace.

Rating: 4

By the way: I just love those extensive notelists of the perfumes of the seventies and eighties.

Notes: Aldehydes, black currant, mandarine, raspberry, peach, bergamott, carnation, tuberose, orchid, orris root, jasmine, hiacynth, rose, ylang-ylang, lilly of the valley, narcissus, civet, honey, sandelwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, vanilla, vetiver, oakmoss,

Huitième Art - Naiviris

Naiviris, ja den heter faktiskt så, Pierre Guillaumes kompoisition med iris som huvudrollsinnehavare, en av de åtta första som lanserades när Pierres "fånotslinje" Huitième Art etablerades 2010. Vet inte om innebörden ska vara oskyldig, naiv iris men lite åt det hållet är faktiskt Naiviris i karaktären.

Naiviris inleds med den för irisdofter så typiska morotsnoten. Men här är den inte kall och jordig, utan det är en cremig lite söt morot. Jag får bilden av en kokt och stuvad minimorot, en primör. Moroten tonar snart ned och dyker ibland diskret fram ur bakgrunden. Irisen är en lite sötare, dammig och samtidigt cremig variant som drar åt hyacinth. Det är en ganska varm irisnot till skillnad mot de flesta irisdofter där den är kall. Naiviris är inte bara dammig i karaktären utan även damig. Det är en parfym som ger en elegant fransk retrokänsla och påminner mig om Pierre Balmains Ivorie och i känslan av Balenciagas Prelude som visserligen är en oriental men som har just den där franska retro vibben. Naiviris är i samma mjuka stil som Aube Pashmina (se föregående review) men AP, som för att vara en grön doft är ovanligt softad, är ändå skarpare i noterna där Naiviris är torrare, pudrigare och mjukare. Naiviris för tankarna till en vit och mjuk angora kanin ätandes en liten delikat morot eller till en kritvit angorajumper.

En mycket trivsam och elegant doft som förgyller en grå och småkall höstdag. Enda nackdelen är att hållbarheten på huden kunde vara bättre. Därför får den, trots att jag gillar doften lite bättre, samma betyg som Aube Pashmina som har fördelen att den håller längre på huden. Provet har jag fått från Fragance & Art.

Betyg: 4

Huitième Art - Aube Pashmina

Picture: A scanned red tomato, along with leaves and flowers

Photo by david Besa, (cc) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

Aube Pashmina is created by Pierre Guillaume for his "few-notes-line" Huitième Art. Aube Pashmina is  somewhat unusual, the scent is soft and soapy despite green and herbal elements. Green and herbal notes  often have at touch of bitterness but here the green blend is soapy with some light traces of a clean floralness. Aube Pashmina starts with green notes like tomatoleaves, basil and rosemary. The supporting woody notes is light, as I image birch wood. Aube Pashmina is quite linear and the fragrance evokes the feeling of fresh greenery and the clean, high air after a rainstorm in the countryside. Fresh without the syntetic feeling.

Aube Pashmina reminds me of a green and herbal variation of Pierre Balmains Ivorie and Serge Lutens Bas de Soie. All three fragrances have a similar texture and make a similar statement. The herbal green aura  reminds me of Un Parfum de Charmes & Feuilles, which is crispy and not as soft and soapy as Aube Pashmina. Mr Parfumista also recognize traces of Xeyrus from Givenchy in the opening of Aube Pashmina. The fragrance is somehow in the same vein as Serge Lutens L'Eau and Maison Francis Kurkdjians Pour le Matin Absolute but those have a syntetical, laudery feeling. Aube Pashmina feels more natural and I prefer it to the other two.

Aube Pashmina suits daytime both for office and casual. It's a scent that can't offend anyone. A versatile perfume with medium projektion and longivity. I reveived a sample from Fragrance & Art .

Rating: 4

Notes: Basil, rosemary, tomatoleaves, cassis, woody notes

Serge Lutens - Bas de Soie

Bild: White and purple hyacinths, foto Elena Shifirnet

(cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons

Serge Lutens iris-hyacint doftande kreation Bas de Soie, troligen skapad av husnäsan Christopher Sheldrake även om det inte är helt klart i det här fallet, är en icke-typisk Lutens. Lutens stil är som bekant, främst orientalisk med dragning åt det gourmandiska hållet. Bas de Soie från 2010 följde ganska tätt på den första riktigt icke-typiska Lutensen på länge L'Eau Serge Lutens. Bas de Soie har fått blandad kritik, det är en doft som delar sniffarna i två läger, varav jag tillhör den positiva falangen. En del tyckar att doften är för kemisk, för kommersiell, för enkel och ointressant. Jag håller inte med. Bas de Soie visar nämligen olika sidor vid olika tillfällen och på jag känner olika nyanser olika gånger, den blir aldrig tråkig. Alltså det som kännetecknar en intressant doft.

"Silkesstrumpor" är ett ganska passande namn på doften, åtminstone när den visar sin cremiga, hyacintiga sida. När den visar sin iris sida är den lite mer av en nylonstrumpa med kalla, metalliska vibbar. På mig är Bas de Soie väldigt annorlunda på sommaren jämfört med på vintern. På vintern träder de metalliska, morotslika, jordiga irisnoterna i förgrunden och hyacinten stöttar i bakgrunden. I varmt sommarväder passerar de inledande iris-morotiga noterna ganska snabbt och övergår i en underbart, tvålig, cremig, hyacint och doften känns elegant, klassikt fransk i stilen. Ska jag likna doften vid en person blir det furstinnan Charlene, med sin svala, klassiska elegans. BdS i sommarväder påminner väldigt mycket om Pierre Balmins fina tvåliga aldehyddoft Ivoire. Det är också något Chaneligt över BdS, något som stilmässigt för tankarna till No 19 även om den inte har samma doftmässiga likhet som Ivoire. Kanske kommer sig det Chaneliga av att Christopher Sheldrake (vi få anta att han har skapat BdS) numera är husnäsa hos Chanel men ändå fått fortsätta samarbetet med Serge Lutens.

Till de som anser att det räcker med mästerverket Iris Silver Mist i Lutens kollektion så säger jag att det gör det inte. ISM och BdS har det jordigt morotiga i starten gemensamt men sedan är BdS en mer blommig iris dvs blomman som understödjs av ännu mer blomma gen om hyacinten. ISM däremot fortsätter i den grövre, jordiga stilen. De kompletterar helt enkelt varandra.

På mig är sammanfattningsvis BdS en mycket intressant och bärbar doft. Normalt sett är iris för mig mer en doft för senvinter och vår, men BdS gör sig på mig ännu bättre när den får blomma ut i hyacinter om sommaren. En klar favorit!

Betyg: 5

Noter: Iris, hyacint, pudriga noter

Lorenzo Villoresi - Teint de Neige

Foto: Herr Parfumista (c)

Update May 2013: Today more than two years later I just love the soapy, white gunpowdery, rosy smell. Ratiing reconsidered see below.

Så en provning ur de "oprovade provernas" ask. Den italienska parfymören Lorenzo Villoresis "snönyans" doft har beskrivits av otaliga recencenter tidigare och här kommer då ännu ett tyckande.

Teint de Neige är en pudrig och på många också en tvålig parfym. På mig stannar det vid pudrighet och en doft som påminner om herr Parfumistas australiensiska sadelsmörjningsolja. Precis i de inledande toppnoterna doftar TdN något som liknar precis avfyrat krut i en knallpulverpistol. En lite mörkare not av det "gunpowdriga" finns närvarande doften igenom. En annan not som slår igenom på mig är den lite mandellika heliotrophen, här en fint avvägd pudrig tonkaböna. Blommigheten är lätt, typ ett potpurri av torkade rosenblad som tack och lov hålls tillbaks till en lagom nivå. TdN ger bilden av skuggor på tung, lite töig, snö vid solnedgången en vinterdag. Men den associationen kommer säkert bara för att jag vet att doften har ett snötema.

TdN är en helt ok och bra doft men inget som sticker ut ordentligt. I en liknande genre (i varje fall när det gäller intrycket) men mycket mer distinkt och dessutom härligt pudrigt tvålig finns Pierre Balmains Ivorie som jag personligen föredrar framför TdN. Vill jag ha en mysig, okomplicerad och varm doft en kall vinterdag så tar istället till Etros Heliotrophe.  TdN är helt enkelt lite för snäll och flat i sin karaktär för att intressera mig tillräckligt en hel dag.

Betyg: 3+

Rating May 2013: 5

Ytterligare reflektioner: Troligen lyfter jag inte Lorenzo Villoresis dofter tillräckligt. Piper Nigrum luktade så härligt pepprigt precis när doften hade duttats på men föll sedan ihop platt. Detsamma hände när herr Parfumista testade resten av röret och också när han testade LV:s Vetiver.