Best of 2015

Picture: Lily of the valley
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Last day of 2015 and I don't feel entitled to write this post as I havn't tested a fraction of the many fragrances released this year. I'm also aware of some samples *) of untested 2015s from which I know there will be some I'll like very much.

Regardless my limited testing of 2015 releases, this post optimally should be written in March/April 2016 to catch up, there was a battle between flowers. The winner is Puredistance White with Téo Cabanel Lace Garden as a close contender. White is not only a beautiful, well crafted, high quality fragrance, it's also a very happy fragrance, versatile, elegant and in the same time comforting, easy to wear. A staple for everyday life, as a concept reminding of the also very versatile Jour d'Hermès. Lace Garden is the white floral going contemporary, also happy and elegant, easy to wear but less formal, more casual than White.

Honorable mentions to the lovely, lush, fruity, airy floral Cio Cio San  from Parfums MDCI and in the same vein but a bit spicier; Neela Vermiere Creations Pichola, the creamy non oud - oud 1001 Ouds from Annick Goutal, the spectacular, almost gormand, citric, furry lavender Shermine from Huitème Art and last but not least the cosy, fluffy, lily of the valley vanilla Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk.

Among designerfragrances releases Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu is the winner in my book. I also like Narciso Rodriguez Narciso Edt and Gucci Bamboo. Havn't smelled the praised Alaïa from Alaïa nor Equipage Geranium by Hermès.

A house I started to explore in 2015 was the (relatively) priceworthy, quality nichehouse Perris Monte Carlo. Their Edp:s are great and now I have just started to explore their wonderful Extraits, released in 2015. So Perris is my house of the year, even if in the fragrance business for decades.

*) Still untested 2015's which I suspect I'll like much are: Cuir L'Aigle Russe from Oriza L.Legrand, UNUM Rosa Nigra and Jehanne Rigaud Imperial Poudré. And I definitly must get my nose on Parfums MDCI Les Indes Galantes a late 2015 release.

Téo Cabanel - Hegoa

Picture: Hegoa
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel

Hegoa is a light breezy, refreshing fragrance in the natural summerscent category from top quality niche house Téo Cabanel. Hegoa is created by inhouse perfurmer Jean-François Latty.

Hegoa starts teaish with soft, supporting citric notes. The tea is soft green and soon also a watery, dewy white rose joins the breezy blend and Hegoa is fleeting in a discrete and elegant cloud around the wearer. As wearer, it feels like taking a bath in a luxary rosewater with the bathtube full of the white rosepetals. The longer Hegoa dries down, the moore notes of greenery comes forward. The green notes are smooth and delicate, like budding leaves. A soft and discrete musk is emphasizing the top and middlenotes and an ambery glow and some very light woods constitutes the base. Hegoa is a true example of "less is more" carefully blended and balanced with high quality ingredients.The fragrance feels very natural, no sharp chemicals in sight (smell). It's a carefree, casual chic fragrance, refreshing and suitable to wear in daytime, year around even if the fragrance itself  signals sunny summerdays in a wild english styled garden. Sillage is very close and longevity almost for a day.

Even if not smelling the same, Hegoa would probably appeal to those who like light, fleeting rosefragrances such as Parfums de Nicolai Rose Pivoine and Annick Goutal Rose Splendide. Also those who likes Early Roses and Lace Garden from Téo Cabanel, will like Hegoa as  it shares their natural, elegant style but in a lighter and more transparant interpretation.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, citrus, mandarine, rose petals, green tea, violet, wood, musk, amber

PS:  Fragrance & Art also carries the Téo Cabanel line.

Téo Cabanel - Early Roses

Picture: Young woman in a rosegarden
Painting by Umberto Veruda (1868-1904)
Source: flickr.com

Early Roses is created by the inhouse perfumer of the venerable perfumehouse Téo Cabanel, Jean-Francois Latty some years ago. The Téo Cabanel house IMO create high quality, very wearable, natural smelling fragrances with timeless character, a house which should be tested by perfumelovers who likes the styles of the houses of Parfums de Nicolaî and Annick Goutal.

Early Roses starts with a perfectly balanced combination of pink dewy, heady roses and an smooth pink pepper which isn't sharp or dominating at all. There are also natural smelling, light woody notes with a smell which reminds me of some fresh cedarwood and most of all; juniperwood. The pink rose is dewy fresh without any tangy or souer nuances. This stage feels very natural and refreshing and also a bit rare as refreshing roseaccords often involves geranium which isn't the case here.

As Early Roses dries further down, a smooth, fluffy creaminess appears, also this accord is perfectly balanced, nor the musk or the touch of berries are overpowering or too sweet. It's like a clean, minimalist cream where high quality roses are melted down. The rosy creaminess is resting on a warming and golden glowing  amberbase with light woody nuances. The amber is also light, delicate and feels sort of natural, there is not the heavy ambroxstyle, which is present in many contemporary rosefragrances. There is also a pleasant, slight salty touch in the later stage of Early Roses, that creates a slight seaside impression, maybe a hint of ambergris.

Picture: Early Roses
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel

Fragrances which reminds me of Early Roses are for example Coquiliete Tudor for the rosy creaminess, where Tudor is not so well balanced and harsh and screachy in comperasion. A fragrance of high quality which comes to, my mind when wearing Early Roses in its later stages is Parfums de Nicolai Rose Oud which also has delicate ambery, woody, rosy basenotes.

Early Roses is a officefriendly fragrance for days when craving a delicate pink rose, regardless season. Sillage is medium and longevity for about a day.

Early Roses is a fragrance in the same transparent, elegant, flowery style as the latest release from the Téo Cabanel brand, the delicate white flower-tubereuse Lace Garden. Both fragrances could be equaled to olfactory Monet gardens.

Rating: 5

Notes: Jasmine, water, rose, pink pepper, musk, amber, wood

Teo Cabanel - Lace Garden

Picture: Lady in Flower Garden, 1891
Painting by Childe Hassam (1859-1935)
Wikiart 

The venerable french perfumehouse Téo Cabanel founded 1893 in Algeria, moved to Paris 1908, has some glorius decades then declined and almost closed down around Y2K. The house was restored by Caroline Ilacqua, a relative to the founder in 2005. Téo Cabanel produces high quality fragrances, most of them in a timeless style with some resembles to the fragrances of Annick Goutal and Parfums de Nicolai. Personally, I (and my nose) think this hidden gem of perfume house is worth much more attention among perfumecritics/ perfumewrites.

Lace Garden is a delicate, white floral bouquet which starts with accords highlighten a transparent tubereuse with its classical white flower supporters; jasmine and orangeblossom. The tubereuse is less prominent and more integrated with the rest of the bouquet than in L'Artisan La Chasse aux Papillion  or Annick Goutal Gardenia Passion which ar two classics that comes to my mind, when it comes to the tubereuse part, wearing Lace Garden. A smooth magnolia is contrasting with its pale yellow, slight lime flowery scent. The base is soft and discrete vanillic, balsamic, woody seamless blended and the overall expression, style and scent reminds me of the signaturefragrance of Gianfranco Ferré which bears the same name, of the delicate bouguet Floral Veil from Grossmith and the first fragrance from Parfums de Nicolaï Number One.

Picture: The beautiful bottle of Lace Garden
Photo: PR Téo Cabanel (c)

Lace Garden is fleeting and transaperant, the name is a perfect description of the impression which this lovely, very feminine fragrance conveys. The fragrance feels natural, there are no traces of the artifical notes smell which often are present in contemporary "high-octave" florals. Lace Garden is the perfect spring and summer fragrance but it is also suitable for winter when longing for the warmer months. It's elegant in style and suits well for festive occasions, it's a perfect bridal fragrance IMO. A must try for lovers of delicate white flowers.

Rating: 5

Notes: Ylang-ylang, lemon, tubereuse, jasmin, orangeblossom, magnolia, vanilla, wood, benzoin, powdery notes