Iris Nazarena & Iris Silver Mist - Short impressions

Picture: Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas
Photo: PR Aedes de Venustas (c)

Short impressions from two days in a row wearing of the 2013 Iris Nazarena from Aedes de Venustas created by Ralf Schwieger and the classic Iris Silver Mist from Serge Lutens created by Maurice Roucel in 1994.

My first impression of Iris Nazarena was "not original enough" for its price probably because I recognized other perfumes in each stage of IN. The carrot and earthy opening similar to ISM and Heeley Iris de Nuit but a more intense and longer lasting carrotaccord, the next more flowery part of IN that partly reminds me of Hermès Hiris with some spicy traces. The base with the typical current tart, putty but in the same time almost slight powdery musky accord with light traces of incense, an accord present in the bases of for example Les Exclusives Chanel 1932, Grossmith Amelia, Puredistance Opardu, Oriza L Legrand Oeillet Louis XV and Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin. But the sum of its parts puts this fragrance in a higher dimension, it is very pleasant and intriguing, I think the "recognizing other beautiful perfumes"effect during the drydown, contributes to this overall impression. This effect is also something I perceive in Kerosene Copper Skies even if this is a different fragrance. IN is concentrated and longlasting.

Picture: Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens
Photo: PR Serge Lutens (c)

When it comes to Iris Silver Mist the whole composition feels smoother, earthier, watery, like damp soil. The carrotopening is shorter and not as intense as in IN and the iris lends more to violet and leafy notes. The base is woody-musky. ISM is more harmonious, the different parts are seamless woven together, the composition is introvert, calming and meditative whereas IN is extrovert, louder with more radiance.

For lovers of  rooty irises, Iris Nazarena is well worth testing as well as the reference fragrance for this style Iris Silver Mist.

Ramón Monegal - Impossible Iris

Picture: The Impossible Iris personified

H.R.H Crownprincess Victoria of Sweden,

Photo: Mattias Edwall/Royal Court (c) 

The Impossible Iris, a creation of senior parfumer Ramón Monegal for his own house, which also bears his name, is all but impossible. It's a beautiful irisfragrance in which the perfumer manages to curb the sharp, rough, carrot-earthy notes that are present in the topnotes of almost every orris-root dominated perfume as in for example Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist or Heeley Iris de Nuit. The carrot is there but it's soft and rounded, in texture as cashmere. Another fragrance where I have percieved this sensation is in Naiviris the Pierre Guillaumes creation for his Huitième Art line. After a while the iris note in Impossible Iris get an almost buttery (the orris-butter?), but at the same time airy quality. Soon also an unexpected twist for such a pure, elegant creation like this appears: A red berry note, but handled in a way that supports and balances the cold iris, ther is no typical sweet, fruity-floral, vibes at all. The warm and almost powdery note of mimosa is also clearly present to balance out the iris. In this stage there is a powdery-cosmetic feel that is characteristic for elegant iris fragrances but in Impossible Iris it's tuned down and constitute one of all the interesting facets of this fragrance. The whole delicate blend rests on a light woody-cedar base, integrated in a seamless way with the rest of the ingredients.

Impossible Iris is high quality stuff, very versatile, it's the perfect officescent, a sort of first-class Prada Infusion d'Iris Edp replacement. Impossible Iris is also the perfect "lunch at some elegant restaurant fragrance" or something to wear at a day time reception, would be a perfect choise to our Crownprincess Victoria for the official celebrations of her 35th birthday today. If Impossible Iris is to be personified, Victoria is my choice. When wearing Impossible Iris another high quality iris comes to my mind, the XerJoff Irisss (review in swedish). Both these fragrances have the elegant, gently, airy quality but to me the orris root are more present in Impossible Iris whilst Irisss to my nose is more about the iris flower. Of the two IMHO Impossible Iris has more interesting twists whereas Irisss is more of a conventional, classical iris.

Even if Impossible Iris is easy to wear, the developement is interesting during the whole dry down, something that I demand from my favourite fragrances. The longevity is great, + 24 hours in warm, humid summer weather, a feature that is not common when it comes to fragrances with this smooth and gentle character. Often such fragrances falls apart and fade away, but not this incredible,beautiful (Im)possible Iris.

Rating: 5

Notes: Iris, mimose, raspberry, ylang-ylang, jasmine, cedar

Thanks to Ramón Monegal Parfums for getting the opportunity to sample this beauty. The Ramón Monegal Parfums are also avaible at Aus Liebe zum Duft .