Autour d'Parfums - Ambre Mystère

Picture: Padparadscha
Photo: List of birthstones.com (c)

The ambre of the Autour d'Parfums line Ambre Mystère is in the sweet, vanillic and pleasable category. It starts with a sweet ambery, almost burnt, caramelized accord in stye of the sweet ambre of Molinard Ambre (swe) but  lighter and with less dept in the caramelized notes. Ambre Mystère continues quite linear with its sweet ambery, balsamic and vanillic notes. Wearing Ambre Mystère I immadiately got the image of a beutiful Padparadscha, the orange and pink colored gemstone in the saphire (corundum) family.

It's easy to wear amber that suits perfect during the colder months but also in summer evenings. The sillage is close and longevity for about a day. It's officefriendly and would not offend even in close sourroundings.

Rating: 3

Notes: Amber, perubalsam, tolubalsam, labdanum, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Autour du Parfums - Encens d'Ange

Picture: Two Winged Putti (ca 1748-50)
Drawing of Francois Boucher (1703-1770)

Encens d'Ange is a perfect name for this light incese fragrance from Autour du Parfums a line that I have to say is quite affordable, ca EUR 43 for 50 ml.

I also have to confess that I'm not so fond of the opening accord of Encens d'Ange as it somehow reminds me of ELDO Jasmine et Cigarettes but without the cigarette butt note of the latter but with the same almost wast flowery note as JeC. And that even if there are no flowery notes mentioned in the notelist. But topnotes are there to fade and after a while Encense d'Ange becomes deeper with confier and incense notes. The incense is still light and the green softwood/fir needle lends some a sort of forest freshness to the composition. There is also a well balanced note of pencilshavings typical for cedarwood somewhere in the middle of the fragrance. As Encens d'Ange deepens in the basenotes, there are plesant notes of resins amplified by a discrete musk which together creates a sort of pleasant moisty, earthy note with almost a touch of fresh tabacco.

 Encens d'Ange in its somehow fresh lightness, is a perfect incense fragrance for summer, it blooms used during a warm and a bit humid summerday. It's appropriate to wear both for work and casual. The longevity is very good, for at least a day and the sillage is medium.

Those who like uplifting incenses as L'Artisan Parfumeur Passage d'Enfer and Dzongkha, Serge Lutens L'Eau Froide and Andy Tauer Incense Extreme will probably also appreciate Encens d'Ange. That even if the exemplified fragrances are more distinctive in charchter and Encens d'Ange smoother and easier to wear.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarin, bergamot, incense, perubalm, tolubalm, firbalm, benzoin, cedarwood, musk, cistus labdanum

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Encens d'Ange.

Autour du Parfum - Patchouli Tonka

Photo: Patchouli Tonka
Photo: Promotion Autour du Parfum

Autour du Parfum is a fragranceline founded by Eline Pajot who had worked for many years with developement and marketing in the parfume and cosmetic industry. There are four fragrances in her Private Collection, which all seems to searching back to the origin of perfumery, straightforward, wellcrafted singlenotesperfumes.

Patchouli Tonka is such a straightforward patchoulifragrance which creates that genuine impression. Patchouli Tonka starts similar to Les Nereides Patchouli Antique. It's a dark, woody, earthy patchouli, rough and tough (but not as rough as Patchouly Indonesia from Farmacia SS Annunziata dal 1561), not the polite by amber sweetened patchouli. As Patchouli Tonka dries down, the patchouli softens and gets smoother, even if the woody, by this stage, slight earthy, impression remains. Probably there is the soft, sweetness of the tonka and some light almost herbal-minty vanilla in the base that balances the raw, erthy notes to a pleasent, velvety, dark impression.

Patchouli Tonka is a perfect casual fragrance year around and perfect for the late summer/early autumn strolling around searching for mushrooms in the forest. It's also comfortable to wear at work. Sillage is medium and longevity for about a day.

For those who are searching for a straightforward patchoulifragrance in the woody, almost herbal. not ambery, end of the spectra like Molinard Patchouli and Etro Patchouly, Patchouli Tonka is a very good and also quite affordable choice SEK 370 (ca USD 58 and EUR 44).

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, orange, geranium, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, tonka been, vanilla

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Patchouli Tonka.