Perris Monte Carlo - Ylang Ylang Nosy Be Extrait

Picture: Adele Bloch-Bauer's Portrait (1907)
Painting; oil, silver and gold on canvas by Gustav Klimt (1862-1919)Wikimedia commons

Ylang Ylang Nosy Be is the other of the first issued Nosy Be fragrances, see more information in the earlier review of Perris Monte Carlo Patchouli Nosy Be.

Starts with a burst of sweet floral and rounded citrusy fruity notes without any sharpness from the grape/lemon just a juicy, bright cloud. It's a very sunny accord, if the accord had a color it could be imagined as somewhere between glowing orange and yellow with golden elements glittering. The fruity-floral notes are sweet but natural and not at all chemical smelling, the ylang-ylang is just golden flowery delicious without any trace of the almost banana like note that sometimes show up in this floral note. The cardamon provides a soft, spicy green balance but it's hardly detectable as a singular note as it's so well integrated with fruits and flowers. There is a sort of electrical vibe to the fragrance, a very light metallic tinge like the snell in the air when the sun breaks through between two thunderstorms. This is also the case with the jasmine, rose and orangeblossom, they're interacting in perfectly blended accords. The basenotes are calming the flowers with vetiver, soft woods, resin and the same delicate vanilla as in Patchouli Nosy Be.  In the  later stages of the drydown, a juicy rose wich has similarities with thé juicy rose in La Rose from Le Galion steps a forward from the flowery blend even if ylang ylang is still clearly present. Ylang ylang Nosy Be as a whole is a quite linear fragrance and wearing it is like floating around in a warm, comforting, golden flow like Adele Bloch-Bauer on the famous Klimt painting.

Compared to the few other ylang-ylang fragrances Ive tested M.Micallef Ylang in Gold and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Fleur des Comores the Perris interpretetion is ticker, denser and more concentrated to the ylang-ylang. Ylang in Gold is more creamy and beachy in apperance , Fleur des Comores is more about a classic sweet, flowery vanilla with the typical slight animalic MPG ambery base.

Picture: Ylang Ylang Nosy Be
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Ylang Ylang Nosy Be is lavish and very feminine in style and it suits for daytime wearing year around. It's a natural sweet and strong fragrance which has to be applied carefully to avoid a too sweet apperance. Sillage is medium to big and longevity great, there is unfragmented  traces left on skin after 24h, 24 extremely comforting hours.

Rating: 5

Notes: Ylang-ylang, lemon, grapefruit, cardamom, jasmine, orange blossom, damask rose, labdanum, vetiver, cedar, vanilla, field scabious

Parfums de Nicolaï - Musc Monoï

Picture: Musc Monoï
Photo: PR Parfums de Nicolaï (c)

In the current tidewave of new nichehouses with strange or copy-cat fragrances, I'm even more grteful for the old, stable houses in this genre. The 25 years jubilee Parfums de Nicolaï is a true mainstay, creating high quality, elegant and in the same time effortless fragrances which also often are innovative even if the PdN house doesn't make any fuss about it. Such a fragrance is the latest release, Musc Monoï,as usual created by Patricia herself.

Musc Monoï is said to be inspired by summer, beach and the suntan oil Ambre Solarie and as I havn't tried the oil, I can't refer to if Musc Monoï is close to it or not. But when I refer to suntan oils in general, Musc Monoï is not smelling as the regular, coconut, big tiare overdosed ones. Musc Monoï in comparison is restraind and casual chic in the same time it's warm and highlights the sweet ylang-ylang backed up with a deeper jasmine and is brightend of the flowery-lemony qualities of magnolia in a beautiful way. There is also something aldehydic in its style, like a carefree, tropical island Chanel No 5 Eau Premièrè. It could also be a bohemic-chic cousin (draped in a 140x140 Hermès parero) to the classic aldehyde Hermès Calèche personality.Probably it's the warmth, the yellowness and carefree apperance of both fragrances that gives me these assosciations
.

Picture: Hermès "Jungle Love",
cashmere and silk  (140x140)
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

After the flowery beginning, Musc Monoï reach a more musky stage which deepens the apperance of the flowers. I can smell a salty quality as also some stripped down, dry coconut and the same with the, in general almost narcotic, tiareflower. It's like a minimalistic, domesticated accord of the nut/tiare and here I for the first time can smell some light traces of a sunscreen of my childhood, Snik an old austrian classic (mostly worn during the winterholidays in the swedish mountains), sadly I havn't seen in the shops in this millennium. As Musc Monoï dries down further, a slight juicy, but not fruity, quality shows up. Probably this is the dreaded note of calone, handled in the right, cautious way. The musk in Musc Monoï is not dominating as a note, to my nose it's more of a carrier of the floral and light salty notes and the musk is probably the component that lends the good longevity to Musc Monoï, it lasts for almost a day, off beach.

When it comes to the salty notes, such sometimes could be almost intrusive, I'm thinking of Laboratorio Olfattive Salina which I think is a ok smelling fragrance but it has to be handled carefully as it has a grand sillage and longevity for days. Salty notes lightly done like in Musc Monoï or Parfumerie Générales perfect summerfragrance Bois Naufrage doesn't require such considerations when applying and is therefore relaxing and uncomplicated.

Musc Monoï is easy to like but not at all simple. It's definitly a charming campanion for summer and it could easily also be worn in the tiresome summerdays in the office.Musc Monoï is avaible in the (new) Nicolaï standardbottles 30 & 100 ml from the PdN website.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Neroli, lemon, petitgrain,  ylang-ylang, jasmine, coconut, calone, magnolia, ylang-ylang, sandalwood musk

Thanks to Parfums de Nicolï for the sample to test 

M.Micallef - Ylang in Gold

Picture: Vintage Cote d'Azur PR poster 

Ylang in Gold is a truly delicious, luxurary, creamy, fruity, floral from french nichehouse M.Micallef situated in Grasse. Ylang in Gold is created by the "housenose" Jean-Claude Astier and as all Micallefs presentated in a artful bottle this one with shimmering gold, created by one of the two founders of the house, Martine Micallef. The juice itself is avaible in two versions: One goldshimmering and one plain transparent version.

Ylang in Gold starts amazing with an accord that smelle like a golden nectar. Creamy fruity notes, sprinkled with uplifting citrus and an almost liqour like note paired with coconut and slight green notes offsetting the sweetness. The flowers in Ylang in Gold is smooth, rounded and sweet yellow  in appearance (even if not yellow in reality), just as the protagonist of the fragrance, the warm, sweet and sunny ylang-ylang. The base is musky in a wellbalanced way with a damp mossy note offsetting the warm and sweet coconut, vanilla and sandalwood in the base. The whole composition is linear in style, extreamly pleasing and comfortable. Despite Ylang in Gold is consisting of powerful notes, the fragrance is surprisingly transaprent and subtle, sometimes almost not detectable for the wearer even if other can smell it. Ylang in Gold reminds me of a classic powerful floral-fruity-oriental from the early 90s, Chopard Casmir but in a current more transparent, smooth and less sweet interpretation. Casmir is louder, sweeter, darker and heavier with its vanilla-resin base   but there is a chord that smells very similar that goes through both of these fragrances.

Picture: The beautiful  presentation of the delicious Ylang in Gold
Photo: PR Parfums M.Micallef, (c) all rights reserved

Even if a symphony of pleasing sweetness, Ylang in Gold manages to lend over to the not too sweet territory. Ylang in Gold is very well crafted, highquality ingredients is used and it evokes true comfort and perfection, it is almost to perfect, there is no surprising twist hidden in the compostion. But that could be just ok for days when the wearer just need an elegant and caring fragrance, not a challenging one (as my favourite Micallef so far Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M.Micallef) that  requires constant attention. The image of the sunny south that the fragrance evokes, make it suitable for wearing in the summer and it has sufficient dept and longevity to last also during a hot summerday.

Ylang in Gold is a shining, yellow fragrance, casual chic, mediating a happy and sunny Cote d'Azur impression. Its texture reminds me of the cocosnutty and creamy character of the dessert gourmand Unkown Pleasures from Kerosene. I also think that those who like Estee Lauder Bronze Godess/Azuree Soleil will appreciate Ylang in Gold. And of course, fans of the original Hanae Mori, with the same name, as that 90s fruity-floral has similarities with Chopard Casmir from the same era.

Rating: 4

Notes: Peach, lichi, tangerine, fruity notes, geranium, sage, rosemary, artemisia, bitterorange, ylang-ylang, rose, lily of the valley, magnolia, mint, sandalwood, musk, moss, vanilla, coconut