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söndag 28 oktober 2018

Atelier Cologne - Part 2

The Atelier Cologne testing has continued .....
Picture: Trèfle Pur
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)

Trèfle Pur: Elegant and minimalistic. Smooth lime, moss, not powdery but wet chalky. Contemporary but somehow retro in the same time. Reminds me of a favorite modern cologne Mugler Cologne in a more elegant chypre inspired version. Trèfle Pur has to be applied liberally to last during a whole day, almost a full sample is needed.

Picture: Orange Sanguine
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)

Orange Sanguine: Juicy, sunny and so happy! Starts like fresh squeezed orange juice, sipped on the terrace, during a breakfest in the height of the summer. The orange-y scent stays during the whole musky slight ambery dry down. There is also green fragments of the orangetree leaves in the mix. In the later phases of the dry down, Orange Sanguine resembles Clémentine California but more sweet juicy where CC is greener and more tangy.

Picture: Grand Néroli
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)

Grand Néroli: Elegant, citrus - bergamott opening,like  a contemporary interpretation of the 70s classics as for example Eau de Rochas and Chanel Cristalle Edt. After a while GN takes a different path and the nèroliaccord takes the center. The longer the drydown, the softer and creamier GN appears, as with Trèfle Pur, there are similarities with Mugler Cologne in the late stage of the dry down. Also Grand Nèroli has to be applied just as liberally as Trèfle Pur to last.

Picture: Rose Anonyme
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)
Rose Anonyme: This is one of my favorite roseparfumes, I imagine a cool dark pink rose wrapped in fresh, earthy patchoulileaves and some cool spices, combined with a balanced woody oud. There is also something almost winey about it. Despite this, Rose Anonyme is not thick and heavy, instead it's surprisingly transparent. A woodier variation of Laboratorio Olfattive Rosamunda and a fragrance for those who loves dark roses as for example Marni Marni, Juliette has a Gun Lady Vengeance, Terry de Gunzburg Rouge Nocturne and so on.

måndag 11 augusti 2014

Top summerfragrances 2014

Picture: One of the Small Towers on Frederiksborg Castle, 
ca 1834-35
Painting by Christen Köbke (1810-1848)
Wikipedia commons
The summer up here in the North was cold from late May and whole June. In July thankfully the warmth appeared and is still present in August with an intensive heat, a very warm, humid weather around 30 degree Celsius. This reflects the list of what I've liked in particular this summer ie very different styles.

Un Bateau pour Capri (Eau d'Italie): This dark, purple, velvety, aldehydic, fruity, flowery creation blooms wonderful  in the ot humid weather. My top find from my sample testing for the blog this summer.

Montecristo (Masque): During the cold first part, the spicy, dirty, animalic Montecristo was a comforting and warming choice. A very big fragrance in the old YSL Opium style. Also tried it when it was quite warm, 20-25 degree Celsius, and its sillage was tremendous and I got positive reactions (belive it or not :-)

Rosamunda (Laboratorio Olfattive) and Rose Anonyme (Atelier Cologne): Both refreshing fragrances in the cool, pink rose-patchouli-oud genre. Very close to each other where Rosamunda is a tad sweeter in its earlier stages and Rose Anonyme a bit woodier. When they have dried down on their scentstrips, I can't tell them apart. Both these fragrances smells much better when worn in the fresh sea-air of the archipelago compared with when worn in the city. Both fragrances shows more notes and another dept by the sea.

Mistral Patchouli (Atelier Cologne): A lighter, daytime, casual, herbal version of the discontinued Dior Midnight Poison. Almost the same, stripped down, dark, patchoulinote as in Midnight Poison. Fresh in a pleasant, non-laudery way. The grapefruit-anice-patchouli is suprinsingly a very good match.

Philosykos (Diptyque): This creamy, woody, fig is so refreshing and easy to wear. Was my staple during a vacation on Ibiza in June. Philosykos is the mediterranean for me, especially Greece of course, but it mixed suberb with the dry, pine infused Ibizian air.

Ciel (Amouage). I like the old Amouages best, the newer are not as "grand". Even if good fragrances, the newwr seems a bit anxious and flattened, afraid not to please an extended audience compared to some years ago. Ciel is a symphony of watery, white flowers which projects beautiful in warm and sunny weather. Easy to wear, a happy and elegant fragrance

Eau de Cologne d'Orange Verte (Hermès): A summerwardrobe staple, the most versatile of them all. Also the current formula is very good, more emphasis on the oranges than in the old (even better) mossy grounded one.

Horizon (Oriza L.Legrand): I love patch in the summer, the earthy, herbal smell is cool and refreshing. Even if Horizon is a patchouli grounded in honey and amber it developes surprisingly well in hot temparature. A beautiful, natural smelling tobbacco note is particularly present in warm tempratures.

Relique D'Amour (Oriza L.Legrand): A cold, light flowery, pine incense which performs excellent in hot and humid weather. It's refreshing and not as dark, bold and dense as for example the incensestandard Comme des Gracons Avignon which is too much for me in the summer.

måndag 26 augusti 2013

Quick impressions - Made in Italy

Picture: The Capitoline she-wolf with the boys Romulus and Remus. 13th century AD with figures of Romulus and Remus added in the 15th century
Museo Nuovo in the Palazzo dei Conservatori, Rome,
Source: Wikipedia Commons
I truly appreciate the dramatic and not always so well-polished italian fragrancestyle. Here are impressions of some nice ones I have sampled:

Rosamunda (Laboratorio Olfattivo): A pink Lady Vengeanance, even if this is a rose/(light)oud mix instead of rose/patchouli in the contemporary style which I appreciate so much. Uplifting and longlasting, perfect for a summerday.

Nirmal (Laboratorio Olfattivo): A Prada Infusion d'Iris follower, lighter, a bit sweeter and maybe a bit meek in comparation with the Prda. Overall a nice iris which is suitable for office, couldn't bother anybody.

Roma Imperiale (Profumi del Forte): This sweet flowery beauty with some wellbalanced almost cookielike notes with some dangerus, on the verge to dirty notes luring behind mus be a Maria Candida Gentile creation. I recognize the latter intriguing notes from creations of her own line.

Versilia Aurum (Profumi del Forte): How could a fragrance with strawberry be so good? Smooth, tender, not too sweet, longlasting and a pleasure to wear. It's like the strawberry blossom has been bottled in a golden nectar.

La Divina Tubereuse (Antonio Visconti): True, fresh and crispy daytime tubereuse growing in the garden.Not the dangereus, carnal nighttime facet of this beautiful flower. One of the very best, if not the best, fresh tubereuses I have tried so far.

Rebel (Antonio Visconti): Elegant and polished patchouli, no dirty hippies which could be indicated by the name. This is the minor rebellion of the well-bred heir.

Piper Nigrum (Lorenzo Villoresi): The ultimate spicy fragrance, it's like true spices are bottled. A bit harsh and strong for me but just perfect for Mr Parfumista after some testing, the first test was not successful..The Villoresi fragrances is not easy, they don't flatter at once, they have to be worn several times to be truly appreciated.

Teint de Neige (Lorenzo Villoresi): I have reviewed TdN earlier but as I like it more and more (it has grown to love) I have to mention this stunning gunpowdery/soapy Villoresi creation where some dirty notes just could be glimpsed under the white cleanness. The model for contemporary, retro, soapy aldehydes