Puredistance MV2Q

Picture: Puredistance MV2Q
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Autumn is almost here, and autumn means it is time for a new release from Puredistance. Last autumn Puredistance reached its full number with the beautiful No 12. After that, each new realease in the Collection will casuse the discontinuing or withdrawel to buy after request, of one of the fragrances. No 3 M even if very popular, was the first do go (discontinued) among others due to new restrictions regarding some of the ingredients. To replace the loss of M a new Extrait created around the leather theme is launched in September 2022.

The similarities between the old classic M and the new MV20 are (beside the high quality ingredients, the extrait formula and the pure apperance) that both are very masculine fragrances even if  I think  MV2Q could even pass as unisex despite of it's leaning to the masculine side. Also the fact that both of them are more  (M) or less (MV2Q) leather fragrances, bring them together. Then, the similarities ends, M and MV2Q are IMHO two different fragrances. M is a timeless, high quality leather fragrance in the style of Hermès Bel Ami, a sort of refined Bel Ami in a clean and smooth extrait formula. 

MV2Q to me is a contemporary, modern urban woody oriental fragrances with an accord resembling the leather chypres of the 1980s as a side kick. A bright, full and sunny version of the chyper-ish accord is appearing in the topnotes and also showing up later in a darker, more sensual moonlight version as MV2Q has dried down in to the basenotes. The leather chypre styled accord,  reminds me of a less sweet-flowery version of one of my all time favourites, Montana Parfum de Peau (vintage version). But most of all MV2Q is a modern dry and warm, balsamic spicy woody fragrance with some light traces of something almost boozy, like a deep and rounded cognac.  Among the spicy notes, on my skin, the clean woody pepper note takes the centerstage and could "take over" the composition when MV2Q reaches the middlenotes  if  not applied very light. I've tested MV2Q several times over the summer, in  very warm and also colder tempratures  and my conclusion is that one or one and a half spritz (if hot outside) is maximum for me to apply to avoid the woody pepper note to take over. The positive side is, that very little of MV2Q is enough to create a great silage and a longevity for about 24h. The extrait is very concentrated, it's rich and mellow, full of very fine quality ingredients playing with each other in wellblended accords. When MV2Q reach the basenotes, the accord similar to a modern Parfum de Peau shows up again but this time with a more oriental soft spicy touch which reminds me of  the cozy and comforting Puredistance Sheiduna. Maybe MV2Q is the masculine counterpart to Sheiduna in the Puredistance collection. In the basenotes, there is also a slight dark leather-boozy element which reminds me of MDCI Parfums excellent Cuir Garamante.

Picture: Puredistance MV2Q
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Somehow I imagine, after its sunny opening, MV2Q,  in the middlenotes, as a dry, dark, log of wood lying together with some black, leather in the desert warmed up in the sunlight at midday. When MV2Q reaches the basenotes, the sun sets and the perfume calms down and transforms to a darker, softer and cosier evening fragance. MV2Q is a fragrance that seems to be tailor-made  to accompanying the progress of the day into the night and to emphasize the characteristics of each part to the wearer. As usual with Puredistance, an intriguing, very well made fragrance, which is concentrated and therfore even the smallest 17,5 ml  flacon (pictured above) will last for a very, very long time.

Overall MV2Q will be a perfect match for the coming autumn, although I will mostly go for the more feminine Sheiduna. 

Notes:

Orange blossom, Pink pepper, Lavender,
Cinnamon, Nagarmotha, Jasmine Sambac, Pine Tar,
Indonesian patchouli, Madagascar vanilla, Spanish labdanum, Tonka bean, Texas cedar

Thank you Team Puredistance for the generous sample of  MV2Q 

Puredistance - Rubikona

Picture: Rubikona a mulitfacetted, glowing gem
Drawing: PR Puredistance (c)

Rubikona from the luxurious perfumehouse Puredistance: I've craved for this perfume since I got information about the release about a year ago. Why did it attract me far in advance? 

- The description promised a contemporary but retro chypre,
- From my favorite perfumehouse Puredistance, always reliable when it comes to quality and imaginative perfume concepts.
- Created by one of my favorite perfumers Cécile Zarokian.
- The teaser of the coming presentation in elegant ruby red, which now is realized from the flacons to the images and drawings of the Rubikona women.

In October 15 2020,  Rubikona finally will be launched and thanks to the founder of Puredistance Jan Ewoud Vos,  I've tested it. Does the perfume (extrait 28% perfumeoil) live up to my high expectations? Yes it really does, it exceeds them by far. This is the best constructed perfume I've tested for years, there are so many layers and also facetts within each layer of the perfume, a real mulitfacetted gem, the inspiration from the glowing ruby is spot on. Rubikona is now my No 1 favorite from Puredistance.

Picture: The chic Rubikona Extrait
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

The opening of Rubikona is très chic with an elegant blended citric dominated accord (which doesn't smell like citrus) of bergamot, mandarin and surprisingly grapefruit. There is absolutely no traces of the often almost acrid impression that grapefruitnote can provoke. When Rubikona first hit my skin,  I for a short while, can smell a note that reminds me  of  lilac slightly reinforced by aniseed and I come to think of another great perfume from  Puredistance - Opardu. 

The following overall warm, but still in some aspects almost chilly and refreshing dry down, is very wellblended. The indivdual notes doesn't stand out, they cooperate in well crafted accords to an experience far greater than Rubikonas different parts. In the heart there are mixed elegant creamy flowers reinforced by soft mossy and woody notes balancing the fragrance, creating an overall dry texture. In the basenotes there is a creaminess in the dryness and  something fleeting by that reminds me of a smooth and gentle edition of accords from Robert Piguet Bandit.  When it comes to the warmth of Rubikona, I can imagine and almost visualize, it coming from the intense glow of the gemstone and the contrasting chiliness I perceive reminds me that after all, the ruby as material is a cold mineral. When compared to Cécile Zarokians other great creation for Puredistance the oriental, warm as the sand in the desert,  Sheiduna, which to me is warm-warm in apperance, Rubikona is cold-warm.

Even if Rubikona is a contemporary chypre it not at all features the typical, a bit sweet patchouli musk base, which is quite pleasant but standard in the so called noveau chypres.  There is patchouli and musk in Rubikonas baseenotes for sure but so wellblended that it's almost impossible to pick up the indivdual notes. The texture of Rubikona is dry and transparent

Picture: The elegant sprit of Rubikona
Drawing: PR Puredistance (c)

in apperance, and manages to creat the impression of an elegant, retro flowery-green chypre in a contemporary form. I come to think of the great chypres from the late 70s and 80s but not dense, animalic, bold and intrusive as many of them. When comparing Rubikona to the other chypre of  the Puredistance line, the elegant  Warszawa , the latter represent another sub-group of chypres; the dark fruity one (think Guerlain Mitsouko, Rochas Femme, YSL Yvresse). Rubikona is from the brighter floral sometimes green sub group (think Esteé Lauder Knowing and  Private Collection (original), Trussardi Femme (80s original)).

When wearing Rubikona images pops up from memory, inducing and triggering scentmemories is one sign for a real intriguing perfume. In this case a ceratin light pink lipbalm in a black metal tube with white cap and screw mechanism which I (and also a friend who had exactly the same association when she smelled Rubikona) were wearing in school in the late 70s and early 80s. Can't remember the name of it and when thinking of this lip balm, I can still clearly visualize the place around the corner where I put this lip balm on before entering the schoolbuilding. When it comes to fragrances from the past, there are for example elements that reminds my friend of the fresh, green Private Collection, me of the green mossy YSL Y.  My friend was also reminded of the powerful Giorgio Beverly Hills (in a positive way she emphasized, don't be scared from this association, Rubikona is not smelling similar, they just somehow share the positive, warm, sunny and shining spirit). Also something from Montana Parfum de Peau stripped of the animalic notes, comes to my mind. The fragrance Rubikona reminds me most of (up to this day at least) is the warm and elegant  Hérmes 24 Faubourg.  
To summarize my overall impressions: Rubikona as a concept, reminds me of a contemporary, transparent, less bold  and not dense interpreation of the great  floral and floral-green chypres of the 70s-80s. 

Rubikona is elegant and chic, suitable for daytime wear and also for the evening, even if Warszawa (of the Puredistance chypres ) IMHO is more of the evening type of perfume. To me Rubikona is leaning more to the feminine side even if the refreshing, dry, mossy, woody elements also make it suitable for brave men. Sillage is medium and longevity about 12h.

Rubikona will be the perfect Christmas gift of 2020 to all lovers of real chypres. Even if no oakmoss is mentioned among the ingredients, this masterful blend itself, creates a light touch of it. From my point of view, this is a timeless perfume  that will stand the test of time, a future classic. 

Rating: 5+

Notes: Grapefruit, bergamot, mandarin, rose, iris, ylang-ylang, clove, orange blossom, creamy notes, patchouli, cedarwood, musk, vanilla, solar notes

Picture: Rubikona  avaible in three
different sizes: 17.5 ml, 60 and 100 ml
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Thanks to Puredistance Jan Ewoud Vos & team for the opportunity to try this gem.

Puredistance - Gold

Picture: Gold as visual art, concept by
Jan Ewoud Vos 2019
Photo: Puredistance (c)

WOW! The latest installation in the Puredistance opus Gold is a "constantly sniffing my wrists fragrance". This is of course not unexpected as "True exclusivity", the Puredistance slogan, exactly nails the sprit of this genuine house. When wearing Puredistance perfumes, I'm often get the feeling that I have to throw out a a significant part of  the rest of my fragrance wardrobe.  The Puredistance perfumes all through are blended with high quality ingredients and that creates a higher and more complex dimension of perfumery. There are for example no shortcuts where cheaper substitutes for ingredients are hidden in the Puredistance-creations. Puredistance is probably the most genuine perfumehouse  on the market when it comes to quality and a classy, conceived fragrance concept . As all Puredistances, Gold is in Extrait, for Gold in 36´% perfumeoil concentration. 

Gold is a part of the "sub" colour-line within the Puredistance Collection, all created by masterperfumer Antoine Lie. The colour-line started with Puredistance Black, followed with its contrast Puredistance White, is now completed with the intertwining Gold. Both Black and especially White have strokes of glowing and glimmering gold, and Gold itself is - as the name imply - the matte texture and aura of the material in different alloys interpreted to a scent.  The position of Gold on the fragrance notescale, is between the dark, mysterious Black and the bright, happy, shining White. The tonality of the fragrance is also very well matched by the beautiful golden flacon in the white de luxe box.

Gold starts with a light herbal- cold - spicy touch, a fresh hint of something close to a soft scent of Juniper. After a while a candied mandarine appears,  reminding me of the candied orange peel in Serge Lutens Bapteme du Feu, juicier in Gold, just as the mandarine pulp itself is candied. Some bright balsamic facets are also shining through early on, probably the myrrh as the impression is clean and a bit chilly. A slight dirty-clean accord is also present for a while, it's like washing a horse after a ride with a luxury schampoo. There is also a green almost rosy element involved, probably the geranium. In the next stage the balsamic notes steps forward, dominated by the velvety coldness of sappy myrrh. The balsamic notes are thick but not heavy at all, the mix is smooth and very well balanced. Later one there is an unexpected and alluring phase in the development: Just like as the balsamic accord suddenly becomes misty, like transforming to a swirling haze, maybe this expression is coming from the smoothness of tonka beans. In that haze, I can also smell strikes of a contrasting, illuminating freshness of vetiver. In the late stage in the dry down of Gold, a soft slight soapy, clean resinous texture appears.
In the overall impression of Gold there is (to my nose) some resemblance to classic Jean Patou Sublime, even if that one is oriental flowery and Gold is a balsamic oriental  and also a smoother, richer, more accomplished creation.

Picture:  Gold is a perfect glow in the dark
and gloomy November, for me the optimal
season for the Puredistance rich fragrances
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Gold is very well blended and one can smell the high quality of the ingredients, the mix has a sort of a velvety density, without being heavy. The fragrance is very rich and harmonious, it's a relaxing, calming fragrance, when worn in the office, it has an anti-stress impact. I really like the resinous myrrhe-theme, and to me Gold is the other side of the coin of Puredistance Sheiduna - Gold is the cold, balsamic oriental, perfect illustrated by the sapphire in the gold plates in the picture above. Sheiduna is the warm balsamic oriental, it could be illustrated by a ruby, the sibling to the sapphire, in the same golden setting. Gold and Sheiduna are related, even if not too close. Actually they are both needed in the fragrance wardrobe to accompanying different moods/weather/occasions in the autumn/winter. Both are also very appropriate for the coming holidays Christmas and New Year. Just as Sheiduna, Gold has an outstanding longevity (24h +). Silage is close-medium and Gold has a subtle appearance, it has presence but doesn't interfere the personal spaces of others. Gold is unisex leaning to the feminine side.

To sum it all up: Gold really smells amazing and I'm enjoying it very much. It's up in my personal top three of the Puredistances, sitting there together with Sheiduna and Warszawa. Gold is the best launch of 2019 from what I have smelled so far from new releases.

Notes: Mandarine, bergamot, pink pepper, clove, rosemary, jasmine, labdanum, geranium, cinnamon, styrax, benzoin, myrrh, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, castoreum, vetiver

 

If I still rated reviewed fragrances, Gold absolutely should be a 5 rated perfume

Thaks to Puredistance Jan Ewoud Vos for the opportunity to try this beauty
 

Puredistance - Aenotus

Picture: The visual feeling of Aenotus,
watercolor of Marleen Molenaar
PR Puredistance (c)

Aenotus is the just launched perfume from one of the most exclusive perfumehouses, Dutch  Puredistance. Aenotus is the result from an over three year long creative process where the founder of Puredistance, Jan Ewoud Vos, together with perfumer Antoine Lie, created the signature fragrance for Jan Ewoud. The name Aenotus is made-up by Jan Ewoud, inspired from the greek mythology and more precisely, Aeolus  the god of the winds.  Based from testing performed by both Mr Parfumista and me, I can tell the name definitely is suitable for this airy contemporary  citrus-aromatic creation.

The very first impression when spritzing Aenotus is the high quality and seamless blending of the ingreditents. This is of course the sign of all the Puredistance perfums and becomes obvious in a minimalistic and clean construction as Aenotus. The perfume (Aenotus, like the whole Puredistance line, is close to the skin, extrait formulas) starts with an accord of a very natural smelling lemon, a lemon with depth and a soft roundness, probably a contribution from the complementing orange fruits. There is also a note reminicent of lime. A glimpse of fresh minty leaves appears followed by a very light and well behaved touch of the moist, watery greeness of  one of my  favorite green fragrances Beaufort Fathom V (whereas Fathom V is not well behaved ). I also got a short impression of vintage Eau de Rochas and Mr Parfumista also smells a glimpse of vintage Bowling Green from Geoffrey Beene. Further in the dry down, a shining, white, dry chalky note appears, wrapping Aenotus in a soft rounded aura, not soapy at all, it conjures a similar smooth texture and feeling. There is also a spritzy dry, blond woody, peppery accord, probably from the black currant buds combined with mint and the musks in the base. The peppery effect is quite distinct on Mr Parfumista and Aenotus on his skin becomes reminiscent of a softer luxuary sibling to Hermès Eau de Citron Noir.

In the basenotes Aenotus is stronger on the musks and a sort of dry sunwarmed woody peppery accord amplifies when it comes to Mr Parfumista wheras my skin brings out more of chalky and minimalistic, contemporary mossy notes, even if some of that special woody/peppery accord is also there. Several testings of Aenotus confirms that the performance of the fragrance is very sensitive to the wearers skinchemistry and also to the dosage.  When I'm wearing Aenotus there is an impression in the baseaccord, maybe the mossy note, that reminds me of  the "scenery" (not the scent itself, except fragments of the mossy note) of Pierre Guillaumes beautiful contemporary, mossy Papyrus de Ciane.  Also there is something in common with the mossy musk in Chloé Nomade, even if  Nomade as a fragrance is different, it's floral and sweet compared to Aenotus. When I'm wearing Aenotus glimpses of the citron is still there, also in the base. On Mr Parfumista the base is more onedimensional, like a thicker and smoother, sunwarmed, dry, peppery wood à la Hermès Citron Noir. As I've smelled Aenotus projecting more times from Mr Parfumista than from myself,  Citron Noir is altogether the fragrance that most comes to my mind when evalutating Aenotus.

Picture: Aenouts in its elegant packing
in different sizes, 17,5 ml, 60 ml, 100 ml.
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Wearing Aenotus is comfortable but still intriguing as the fragrance triggers differnt associations, to other fragrances and also to the context of the fragrance. Imagines like a cooling breeze a sunny spring or early summerday by the sea with sun and a clear blue sky are the first impression. When leaving the direct seaside, scents from the rural landscape appears like greenery, woods and moss.

Aenotus is a versatile fragrance, it's suitable for daytime wearing year around. It's an understated and officefriendly perfume which wears close to skin. If properly applied of course, the rich formula allows only a few tiny spritzes, if overapplied it could  be almost suffocating. Longevity 24h + even if moderate applied. Compared to other aromatic fragrances, which in comparison often seems "thin" in texture, Aenoutus is multifaceted with a full texture, and something as rare as an aromatic fragrance in perfume formula. Even if Aenotus is a unisex fragrance leaning to the masculine side, I'm planning to wear it anyway and I'm certain I'll exploring new facetts and impressions. To be continued.

Notes: Orange, mandrin, lemon, yuzu, mint, blackcurrant bud, petitgrain, oakmoss, patchouli, musks

Thanks to Puredistance for the sample to test

Parfums de Nicolaï - Néroli Intense

Picture: La Carmencita (1890)
Painting by John Singer Sargent  (1856-1925)
Musée d'Orsay

Néroli Intense (NI) is an elegant nérolicentered fragrance, created by perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï. NI is not a stronger version of Cap Néroli from this summer, it's a variation (just as with the different concentrations of classic Guerlains and Chanels) on the néroli-theme with less higher and lighter citrus notes and more of warm, sweet, dense and dark oriental notes. If NI had a color it's would be like the muted orange color of the dress of La Carmencita above. If it had a texture it would be like bitterorange marmalade

Néroli Intense starts like a massive warm glowing wall of orange néroli and other inteacting sweet and bitter citrus essences with a clever contrast of a dark green, "fat" herbal tarragon note. If Cap Néroli is the sunrise and the scent of a summer morning, NI is the golden sunset of the late afternoon.   There is an almost bloody, metallic accord that seems to rise from the depts of the fragrance and serves as an intriguing contrast to the elegant and well behaved notes of néroli and orange. This accord make me think of a similar twist in Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin. Maybe this impression is created with a combination of the beewax absolue and the herbal tarragon. The musky base with patchouli is not like a separate stage of the fragrance, it's blended in the fragrance to support the other notes in a very well balanced way.  Another PdN fragrance that NI reminds me of is the discontinued dark hebal-néroli  Eau sOleil, an Eau Fraiche with good longevity. Even if I remember that one as creamier, almost soapy, with less néroli, with more other with flowers and a note of fresh mint accompained by other herbs.


NI is dense like velvet in it's structure but not at all cloying. Timeless in appreance, it has a clever retrotouch. NI is a top notch nérolidominated perfume with high quality ingredients, there absolutely no syntetic vibes about it. To me NI is leaning more to the feminine side of unisex, but just as with Cap Néroli, wearable for both. NI is an elegant fragrance and just as with Cap Néroli it goes well in the boardroom but for autumn and winter instead. NI would also be a perfect companion to our

patient, committed and beautiful Queen Silvia when celebrating her 75th birthday today. Long live the Queen!

Go for Néroli Intense if you wan't some glowing, warm, elegance for winter.

Rating: 5

Notes:

Picture: Olfactory pyramid of  Néroli Intense
Photo: PR Parfums de Nicolaï

Thanks to Parfums de Nicolaï for the opportunity to test Néroli Intense. Néroli Intense is also avaible by Fragrance & Art.

Parfums de Nicolaï - Cap Néroli

Picture: Parfums Nicolaï Cap Néroli
Photo: PR Nicolaï

Cap Néroli is the new 2018 EDT from Parfums de Nicolï, a real favoritehouse of mine. Last years release was Rose Royale, a celebration to the pink roses of the palacegarden in the center of Paris. this year is celebrating néroli and what a celebration: This is not the usual soliflore niche stuff, this is lika a full fragrance, a bouquet of notes which makes one think that Cap Néroli doesn't belong to the soliflore genre.

Cap Néroli starts with an uplifting, cheering, burst of juicy, natural smelling full orange, like fresh oranges squeezed  in the sun by noon on the terrace of a villa in chic mediterrain surroundings. The orange liquid squeezed is natural, with fruit fibres, tick and not diluted or sugared. This is the accords of a early summer sunny day bearing all the expectations of the wonderful days which will come. In the nexte stage a chilly green, minty note appears blended with a herbal touch. The orange becomes more elegant, restrained and sincere in this stage, the néroli oil appears. Also a dry, salty note enters, a note similar to sea salt and also the scent which reminding me of old school bath salts, in this stage Cap Néroli has left the soliflore stage and enters the domains of a more complex fragrance. The salty ant bath salty aspects are also apperant in  Deco London Lawrence even if the latter is greener and colder in style, like an early summerday of the coast of Britan instead of the shores of the Mediterrain. Cap Néroli is grounded in oakmoss and musk an probably this is a part of the secret of the elegant retro feeling of the fragrance. The timeless elegant, green freshness could be the sign of the oakmoss and the herbs even if I guess that some of the typical Nicolaï geranium (think l'eau Chic) could be embedded in the base accord. During the whole drydown the slight herbal minty note gives Cap Néroli a certain sparkle and together with the salty note, offset the sweetness of the flowers of the fragrance. Compared to my other favorite Nicolaï neroli, Eau sOleil, Cap Néroli is brighter and higer on the fragrance note scale. Eau sOleil is the warm, glowing and slight spicy fragrance for the golden sunsets of the late summer, the orange of Eau sOleil is darker, with velvet nuances of gold and brown.

The overall impression of Cap Néroli is classic retro elegance, interpreted in a modern way. Cap Néroi is a modern take on the classic chypre accord, it's minimalistic and scaled down but still some of the moisty mossiness is there together  the with retro salty, slight soapy cleanness and retro freshness, elegant freshness as in vintage Eau de Rochas. To me Cap Néroli as a whole is more of a formal summer fragrance, it goes well in the boardroom. Both the radiance and longevity are very good to be an EDT, Cap Néroli lasts for over twelve hours. The fragrance is unisex, just as good on my skin as on Mr Parfumistas even if my skin amplifies more of the orange notes and his the green, salty and herbal notes. This fragrance shouldn't be missed, its perfect for effortless elegance both in formal and casual chic summer gatherings.

Rating: 5

Notes: Petitgrain bigaride, orange, mandarine, rosemary, mint, neroli, ylang-ylang, jasmine, orangeblossom, oakmoss, musk

Gucci - Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme

Picture: Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme
Photo: PR Gucci (c)

Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme is the female interpretation of the 2017 success for him, the rubbery leather Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme. Both fragrances are created by the very experienced perfumer Alberto Morillas. 

Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme (GGApF) starts with a juicy, very natural black berry and to my nose also black currant accord. Later on  a purple rose accompanied by the green woody note of cypress, some glimpses from the leather in Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme  (GGApH) and the dark patchoulinote shows up. Light rose pepper sparkles in the blend like glimpsing stars on the dark night sky in the middle of a cold winter. The pepper never goes peppery, it's just fizzy. The fruity notes are tangy and delicate, and not especially sweet. GGApF has some similarities with GGApH, the same woody notes, especially from the cypress and a smooth interpretation of the leather. GGApF has not the rough and though burnt rubbery notes of GGApH, instead it has those beautiful dark fruity, juicy notes blended with the rose which creates a plush feminine impression over the contrasting masculine woody notes.

GGApF could be worn both for day and night. It's a bit formal, it's not a casual, laid back fragrance, it's perfect for the office and for after work. It's a fragrance that builds confidence, in the same way as for example Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Edp and even more; Montana Parfum de Peau. Just as the fragrances mentioned, the longevity is great, silage not as big but medium.

GGApF is an excellent example of the new chypre style, less sweet than the usual ones and with its own juicy, dark blackberry character. Even if GGApF is an example of the new chypre style, wearing it somehow makes me think of, even if not smelling similar, the above mentioned grand chypre of the 80s Montana. GGApF:s character also reminds me of Sisley Soir de Lune which is also a great contemporary chypre but created in the classic style. 

To me GGApF is one of the best releases for years in the womans section. I'm convinced this will be a classic just as GGApH.

Rating: 5

Notes: Blackberry, bergamot, pink pepper, rose, cypress, woody notes, amber, patchouli

Tauerville Stories Collection - Hyacinth and a Mechanic

Picture: Hyacinth and a mechanic
Photo: PR Tauerville (c)

The Tauerville line is perfumer Andy Tauer's vision for a offering inspiring perfumes handcrafted in smaller production batches. Most of the fragrances are interpretations of a special note as for example rose, incense, fruit, patchouli. Some fragrances within the Tauervilles are very rare, the Stories Collection are sold exclusive when Andy himself appears for an event in some of the perfumestores who carries the brand. Hyacinth and a Mechanic is such a fragrance. To celebrate the 15 years anniversery of LA nicheboutique Luckyscent, the three fragrances from the Stories Collection were avaible online for a month last autumn. And I couldn't resist ordering the Hyacinth despite expensive shippingrates and of course customs duty. Anyway it was worth it, this is a very rare, intriguing and beautiful fragrance.n

Hyacinth and a Mechanic (HAM) starts with the most natural smelling hyacinth note that I've smelled so far from a perfum. When applicating the fragrance, a crisp, slight fresh green spicy, sparkling hyacinth appears, is just like entering a christmasdecorated house with hyacinths in the windows, out from the cold and snowy winterlandscape. Soon a oily, petrol and light metallic accord appears, followed by a  rough leathernote, togehter contrasting the crisp hyacinth and green note. It's just like that the one who makes the entrance is coming directly from repairing the car in the garage, still wearing the overalls under a heavy leatherjacket with a curly sheepskin collar. The oily, metallic, leathery intensifies and an animalic vibe appears in the fragrance, the hyacinth is still recognizable as the unexpected contrast to such notes. Later in the drydown, the hyacinth steps forward again and during the whole dry down, the hyacinth alternate with the dirty accord of beeing the most prominent player. In the last aaccords of the basenotes, the hyacinth and the dirty accord finally seems to have blended in sort of an integrated accord.

HAM is fragrance of its own and there are no similar fragrance that I come to think of even if I imagine similar aspects in other fragrances. For example the chilliness of the hyacinth I also recognize in the cold hyacinth-iris accord of Serge Lutens beautiful Bas de Soie and to some extent also Tom Ford Vert de Fleur, the oily/metallic/petrol accord reminds me of some parts of Histoires de Parfums Petroleum but not at all as intense as the latter.

HAM is a complicated beauty, the contrasts are intriguing. In the same time it's a casual, easy to wear fragrance sort of relaxing and with an interesting development which makes one sniff the wrists regulary during the day. The sillage is medium in the first stage, then close to skin. Longevity is for a day. HAM is totally unisex to my nose.

Rating: 5

Notes: Hyacinth, animal notes, leather, woody notes

Puredistance - Warszawa

Picture: Puredistance Warszawa
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Puredistance Warszawa is a collaboration with the Missala family who sells Puredistance in their perfumeries in Poland. The perfume (extrait with 25 % perfumeoil) is created by perfumer Anotine Lie and is a tribute to Warszaw and it's people, inspired of the golden era of Warszawa in the begining of the last century. Warszawa was originally launched in 2016 and was sold exclusivity by Quality Missala for a year. Now it's at last avaible for the rest of us lovers of vintage styled fragrances.

The colour of Warszawa the fragrance is said to be dark green with some gold and grey, and that's is also my first impression of the fragrance. It's starts like an elegant, glowing fruity chypre and it reminds me very much of a restrained, darker and smoother variation of Yves Saint Laurent Yvrersse (Champagne). Yvresse is higher on the fragrance notescale and more extrovert whereas Warszawa is gentler and intimate in character. Warszawa is also less sweet and more flowery than Yvresse, more green where Yvresse has more of the golden glimmer, or to be correct, Yvresse sparkles and Warszawa glimmers. Galbanum is distinctive in the first part of Warszawa and it's then present during the whole dry down. In the middle notes the flowery accord first brightens with a fruity touch which gives me associations to the lipstick-textured fruitiness of Cartier Baiser Fou but in a darker and refined context. In one wearing the fruitiness stands out, the other wearing the more intoxicated, elegant, flowery notes. Warszawa is a fragrance with many layers and interesting twists. Later in the dry down an almost balsamic texture appears, wrapping the wearer in a gentle and mysterious skinscent. The basenotes are deep and dark green, with strikes of a mysterious golden glow, like the remains of a campfire in the dept of a big forest a dark night in the autumn.Warszawas slight cosmetic touch, without beeing powdery or too lipsticky also reminds me of a night in the opera or theatre in the pre WW1 era. Dim light, elegant women in fur, velvet and silk in dark jewellery colours, glowing gemstones, feather decorations, powder and heavy perfumes.



Pictures: Montage of Warsawa, Poland
Montage of  Foxy 1219 photos of  Radek Kołakowski, Marek和Ewa Wojciechowscy ,
 ekeidar, Marcin Białek, DocentX, Mateusz Włodarczyk
Wikimedia commons (cc) some rights reserved

Warszawa is a fragrance which has to be experienced in multiple wearings as new angles are appearing in each wearing. It's a fragrance for evenings around the year and for daytime wearing during the colder and darker months. The sillage is close, its a calm and quiet perfume, the longevity is for at least a day. A retro styled fragance in a contemporary interpretation.

Rating: 5

Notes: Galbanum, grapefruit, violet leaf, jasmin, broom, orris, patchouli, vetiver, styrax.

Kerosene - Wood Haven

Picture: Wood from the Swedish forest.

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Wood Haven is created by John Pegg, the perfume reviewer that started his own house, Kerosene. Wood Haven is a fragrance in the a bit weird but tempting and in the same time “nice-to-wear” and “deja-vú”style that is typical for the house of Kerosene. The “deja-vú” feeling that is present with almost all Kerosense fragrances is both positive: I can recognize other frags that I like, sometimes several in one Kerosene composition as in the best of them all IMHO: Copper Skies. The negative part is that I feel a bit dissapointed, I mostly (but not always, a very wellconstructed and alternating frag close to another could be interesting anyway) get bored when a fragrance is too close or similar in style to another already existing fragrance.

Wood Haven starts with a grapefruitnote that I can recognize from one of the other woodinspired Kerosenes Santalum Slivers. A beautiful, mellow, sparkling, note of a yellow lemon glimpeses by, I wish this shining note would last more than just a short moment. Soon a dry grassy, green note appears, like long, wild, grass dried in the sun on a meadow. There is also a slight herbal tinge to the grassy note. After a while a slight moisty, vegetal accord arrives and balances the drieness. Some light, bright, light spicy and dry wood is present in a discrete and pleasant way, the smell recalls the smell of sun warmed bark on conifers. There is also a distinguishable note of vetiver present adding a slight, clean, earthy vibe to the barknote.

Wood Haven is a woody-fresh-grassy fragance, not woody-acquatic and not peppery-woody, which is enjoyable daytime, both for casual and work, year around.To me Wood Haven is a lighter and less distinctive version of L’Eau Guerriere by Parfumerie Generale, which is a more powerful fragrance in the fresh woody bark note category.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, black pepper, pink peppercorns, juniper leaf, ginger root, vetiver, cedar, gaiac wood

Thanks to Fragrantfanatic  (Riktig Parfym) for the sample of Wood Haven to test

Kerosene – Fields of Rubus

Picture: The 'Barnet' raspberry, a hand-coloured engraving after a drawing by Augusta Innes Withers (1792-1869),
from the first volume of John Lindley's Pomological Magazine (1827-1828), Wikimedia commons.

The Kerosene Fields of Rubus starts with a great deja-vú when it comes to me: I smell the great, robust and almost dusty, Patchouli Antique by Les Néréides. The patchoulinote dominates the topnote but after a while, step by step, a jammy, berry, note is sneaking into the blend, rounding up the almost harsh patchouli. Another moment later, the berrynote developes and shows to be the note of fresh picked raspberrys, for a while the smell of raspberry smells very true. Maybe the applenote mentioned among the notes contributes to the sparkle of the raspberry, I can’t smell it like a separate part, but I somehow can image it in this stage. After a while the jam is there again and Fields of Rubus becomes sweeter and similar to a raspberry, jam, vanillic, dessert with cream. As the fragrance developes the patchouli withdraws and becomes a player in the backgrund. The patchouli contributes to the dark facets in the base of Fields of Rubus, smoothed by the vanilla and musk that together with a light woody note, balances the though patchoulinote.

Before sampling, reading from the notelist and sniffing the outside of the sample vial, I had a great hope that Fields of Rubus would be as awesome as the ambery Copper Skies my favourite from the Kerosene line, but it turned out to be a good but not stunning fragrance when worn by me. Fields of Rubus starts interesting with the robust Patchouli Antique like accord and the sparkling raspberry that occurs after a while. But as FoR dries down it somehow loses some of its identity and ends up as an ok but not special scent. I wish Fields of Rubus would have developed in the opposite way, ie that the topnotes would form the base and vice versa.

Fields of Rubus is a fragrance suitable for autumn and winter as it creates a comfortable and sweet, delicious mood for the wearer. The sillage is medium and the longevity is good.

Rating: 3

Notes: Raspberry, plum, apple, tobacco wood, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, cedar, patchouli

Thanks to Fragrantfanatic  (Riktig Parfym) for the sample of Field of Rubus to test

Montale – Gold Flowers

Picture: Polianthes tuberosa, 1816,

John Sims (1746-1799), Wikimedia commons

Montale Gold Flowers is one in the indefinite ranges of perfumes from the house of  Montale, created by the hyperproductive perfumer Pierre Montale some years ago. Gold Flowers belongs to the Edp line, which is the non-oud line of the house. Of course there are oudnotes in many of the blends in the Edp-line but the note is used as a woody note among others and not as the leading note of the creation as in the Oud-line.

In Gold Flowers I can’t detect any oud, Gold Flowers is a genuine, tuberose dominated spicy, bold flowery fragrance. Gold Flowers reminds me of at least three fragrances: Spellbound with it’s flowery spiciness, Fracas tuberose and the texture of the flowery, fruity chypre Jil Sander 4. But Gold Flowers is lighter, brighter and more contemporary than those three fragrances. As the fragrances of the early 90s has been one of the major trends in perfumery for some years, for example Burberry Body, Gold Flowers is quite in tune with time.

The sillage and longevity is great as almost always with the Montales. The composition is also well balanced. Gold Flowers is perfect for warming up a grey day in autumn- or winter but is also appropriate to summer as it last very well and has a certain transparency. With it’s character it is also suitable for evening wear. To summarize: Gold Flowers is not the most original composition but cozy and wearable spicy, tuby fragrance.

Rating: 4

Notes: Tuberose, pepper, clove, sandalwood, grey amber

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - Tubéreuse

Picture: Polianthes tuberosa
Source: Wikimedia commons

The tuberose interpretation of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Tubéreuse starts with topnotes that reminds me of powdery lipstick. The tuby-note are evident even if embedded in lipstick. As the top notes fades and the perfume reach it's heart, a more polished version of the typical dirty "stable-like" jasmine note of MPG matsterly interpreted in the MPG soliflore Jasmine, appears accompaning the tuberose. There are a lot of similarities between Jasmine and Tubéreuse but the latter is more well modulated and polished even if some skankiness lurking behind it's elegant exterior. The former is straight forward, it smells as it has just left the stable. In both Tubereuse and Jasmine the top-and mid-range are infused with green notes that accentuates that respective flower. The green notes are slightly harsh, galbanum comes in mind but without the typical crispiness of that stuff. Just as Jasmine, Tubéreuse is grounded in the special MPG musc that contribute to the retro-like impression of their fragrances.

To summon all up, MPG Tubéreuse is a green floral scent accented by tuberose although there is a hefty dose of jasmine too. The scent is not an equally distinct and compact tuberose frag such as Annick Goutals Tubéreuse or Frederic Malle Carnal Flower. As Tubereuse is not very powerful and it is almost percived as thin in the projection. But it fills its place as a retro scent with a clearly nostalgic vibe. Tubéreuse is an EDT that fits well  wearing during daytime especially for spring and summer. 

Rating: 4

Notes: Green notes, tuberose, jasmine, rose, musc, amber

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - Fraiche Passiflore

 Picture: A great Passionflower 

Photo: Simon Rudolf (cc)

Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

Scroll down for an english version. This is from the unpublished archives, ca 2011.
Håll i er alla parfymsnobbar: MPG:s Fraiche Passiflore är något så hemskt som en fruity-floral! Men en hemskt trevlig fruity-floral och inte alls en sådan där generisk, klonad, massmarknadsprodukt som man normalt associerar med begreppet. Nej, Jean Laportes passionfruktsblommedoft med jasmin och persika har en helt annan klass. Det finns ju faktiskt fruktiga floraler som är jättebra, både bland niche och i designerdoftssortimentet. Frukt ihop med blomma blir precis lika bra ihop som tillexempel gräs och blomma bara parfymören komponerar med känsla och bra ingredienser används.

Så är fallet i Fraiche Passiflore som även om den inte tillhör MPG:s mer avancerade dofter i sin relativa enkelhet är riktigt originell, uppiggande och ger en viss spänning trots att den har rätt lite av den så för äldre MPG:s i bakgrunden lurande "skankynessen". Fraiche Passiflore inleds med en massiv dos persika och passionsfrukt. I det här stadiet är den nästan lite för söt men det går över när den MPG-gröna jasminen inträder och balanserar upp det hela. I den här fasen påminner passionsfruktnoten mycket om dito i Vero Kerns Edp-versionerna av Rubj, Kiki och Onda. Dessa tre dofter har genom adderandet av passionsnoten fått en gemensam aura som påminner om utstrålningen i Fraiche Passiflore. Även MPG:s egna fina Rose Muskissime har en mindre dos av passionsblomman, en not som uppenbarligen borde användas mer med hänsyn till de godingar till dofter som jag precis räknat upp. I FP:s notlista finns också spansk peppar, en not som jag inte känner direkt men säkert tar ut en del av sötman för i mellanregistret har FP stramat till sig. Sedan fortsätter den i samma stil ned i basen där den MPG typsiska lortmysken lurar men här i en ganska tvättad version. Dessutom finns en kittig not i basen. I basen påminner FP så otroligt om en doft som jag upplevt som liten, någons parfym eller någon hudcreme. Om FP skulle ges en färg så är den definitivt starkt orange för mig och den utstrålar glädje och värme.

Fraiche Passiflore är den perfekta, eleganta, fruity-floralen och den är som gjuten för cocktails ljumma sommarkvällar. Men den passar också för att pigga upp om vintern, faktum är att jag bar den ett par dagar före julafton, bland annat på årets mörkaste dag. Kanske en omedveten manifestation av att "nu vänder det". Men eftersom baksidan med FP är att den har en sämre hållbarhet under dagen än de flesta andra av mig testade MPG:s så passar den bättre på vintern eftersom dofterna inte radierar lika snabbt från bäraren i kyla som i värme.

Hold on all perfumesnobs: MPG's Fraiche Passiflore is something as awful as a fruity-floral! But a terribly nice fruity-floral, not one of those generic, cloned, mass-market products that's generally is associated with the fruity-floral concept. No, Jean Laportes passionflower brew with jasmine and peach has a completely different class and proof that there's really fruity florals which is very good both in the niche and the designer fragrance range. Fruit with flowers is just as well together such as grass and flowers. What's matter ist that the perfumer composes with a feeling, that the blend is balanced and good ingredients are used. And of course, that the production over the years is true to the original or if reformulatad, reformulation is done true of the spirit of the original.

In the case of Fraiche Passiflore, even if the fragrance does not belong to more sophisticated MPG blends, it in its relative simplicity, is quite original, refreshing and gives a certain exitement, although it has fairly small amount of the, in the background lurking skankinsess that is a sign of some of the earliest MPG's. Fraiche Passiflore begins with a massive dose of peach and passion fruit. At this stage it is almost a little too sweet but it will pass when the to MPG typical green jasmine enters and balances it all up. In this phase  the passionfruit note much resembles ditto in Vero Kern's EDP versions of Rubj, Kiki and Onda. In these three fragrances the addition of the passionflower note (and some other changes in the forumlas compared to the extraits) have lended them a aura reminiscent of the radiance of Fraiche Passiflore. Although MPG's own fine Rose Muskissime have a smaller dose of passion flower, a note that apparently should be used more seen in context to the fine fragrances I have listed. Among FP's notes also pimento is listed, I can't smell the note directly but surely it rounds out some of the sweetness because in  the midrange  FP has calmed down considerably. Then it continues in this style into the basenotes where the typical MPG dirty musk is waiting, but in FP in a rather cleaned version. There is also a putty note in the base. The base of FP  so incredible resembles a smell that I experienced as a child, probably someone's perfume or skin cream. If  FP would be given a color, it is definitely bright orange as I'm concerned. The whole fragrance also radiates joy and warmth, it's definitly a happy fragrance.

Fraiche Passiflore is the perfect, elegant, fruity-floral and it is perfect for drinking cocktails in balmy summer evenings. But it is also ideal to brighten up in the winter, I was as an example wearing FP at midwinter solstice, 21 December. And as FP:s longevity is not as good as most of the others MPG:s it's of course better to wear in winter as it stays longer in chilly air. But this doesn't stop me to enjoy FP during the summermonths either.

Rating: 4

Noter/notes: Persika, hallon, passionsfruktsblomma, spansk peppar, jasmin, mysk, sandelträ/ Peach, raspberries, passionfruitflower, pimento, jasmine, musk