Puredistance No 12

 

Picture: No 12, 17,5 ml
Parfume extrait 25%
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Puredistance No 12 is the last creation in the Puredistance circle of extraits de parfum. There will be just twelve fragrances at time in the Magnificent XII Collection, when a new fragrance is launched, it will replace one of the other twelve. But fear not, the retired perfumes will still be able to order directly from Puredistance from a Private Collection.

Puredistance No 12 is created by masterparfumer Nathalie Feisthauer the creator of  many fragrances for example two favourites of mine  ELd'O Putain de Palaces and Hermès Eau des Merveilles (with Ralf Schweiger).The opening of No 12 is bright and shiny, there is a clean and abundant, full mandarine note which, even if close in its texture is not at all sweet and thick like marmelade. It's paried with an elegant vintage touch of bergamot, and bracing cardamon. In the frirst spritz of No.12, the opulence of this contemporary chypre with vintage vibes, is obvious. Almost in the same moment as the topnotes hits the skin, other layers in the blend introduces themselves. The beautiful, clean rose, the flower, no torns and greenery either not the rubbery note of roseoil, the seamless blend of jasmine and other classic notes as orange flowers, narcissus, lily of the vally and orris. The notes are so masterfully blended and therefore the different notes are hard separate, they just  mingles in smooth, creamy accords, fleeting like a heavenly (blue) symphony. 

The patchouli in the base of No 12 is together with rose, orris, mandrain and cardamom the note that, to my nose, stands out the most in the fragrance. The patchouli in No 12 is not used that much in todays perfumery: It's a clean (but not stripped down), cosy, soft like cashmere, sort of dry, almost powdery earthy dark chocolate type, which smothness blends lovely with the notes mentioned and with the ingredient of all real chypres: Oakmoss. The patchouli and oakmoss combo adds a clean dept to No 12.  I've found something close to this particular patchoulinote in  two totally different and more one dimensional interpretations; in  Perris Monte Carlo Essence de Patcholuli and Davidoff Zino Davidoff. None of them as smooth, elegant and creamy as No 12, theese fragrances are more of "one note"  patchouli fragrances. Another fragrance that comes to my mind is the beautiful floral chypre La Perla (the original version from 1987), although No 12 is more contemporary in style.

Picture: No 12 in all sizes
Photo: Puredistance (c)

The impression of No 12 is that of total cleanness, like clean water in a mountian stream. But the water is thick and accompanied by many nuances, for example something like a clean luxury soap even if the texture of No 12 is not soapy. It's a fragrance that surprise, with different wearings, different accords/notes stands out, some wearings I can smell a faint leather note (smooth leather from inside a luxary handbag),iris paired with a clean earthy impression. 

Compared to last years  Rubikona, No 12 is brighter and higher on the fragrance note scale, Rubikona is more muted and dark, like silky velvet, where No 12 is like fluid tick silk in texture. Both are chypres, where No12 is more of an elegant carefree daytime fragrance and Rubikona is more serious, leaning to a evening event, although both could be worn around the clock. The blue No 12 to me is a glimmering faceted, cornflower blue saphire, framed in white gold, whereas Puredistance Gold which I associated with a saphire, is a darker, cabochon cut dark saphire framed in muted gold. 

Picture: Queen Maxima of the Netherlands,
in the Mellorio Sahppire Tiara
Photo from: Pinterest photographer unknown/
Royal roaster tumbler dot com (c) 

If Rubikona evoked the vision of  the "fit and proper" powerwomen, the EU President Ursula van der Leyen, No 12 is the perfume of a Queen. The queen I come to think of is, appropriately Queen Maxima of the Netherlands. As it seems from what is written in the press, a warm, colourful and sparkling personality sometimes appearing in an elegant, bohemian chic style. The color of No 12 is regal blue, like the saphires in Maxima's imposing tiara.

Although Rubikona and No 12 are in the same family, very elegant well constructed and wearable modern chypres, I could not choose a favourite. Both are equally good and complements each other, one have to have both for variation. The overall impression of No 12 is like a sunny day, with blue sky, full of joy and complete effortless.  The parfum is timeless and proper both for casual chic and formal events. Regardless of the occasion No 12 really lifts the spirits and is a ride in true comfort. 

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Cardamom, Coriander, Ylang Ylang, Narcissus Absolute, Jasmin Absolute, Rose, Geranium, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom, Osmanthus Absolute, Orris Butter, Heliotrope, Hedione, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Oak Moss, Tonka, Ambrette, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Musk

Perris Monte Carlo - Patchouli Nosy Be Extrait

Picture: Nosy Be
Photo: from Pinterest 

Patchouli Nosy Be is the most recent patchouli fragrance from Perris Monte Carlo. The Nosy Be part of the name is from the island suitiated on the north west of Madagascar, the island is famous for cultivating ylang-ylang, coffe and vanilla but the climate is suitiable also for other spices and flowers. The Nosy Be Patchouli is a successful experiment where the manager of the ylang-ylang plantation of the well known fragrance ingredients producer Robertet planted patchouli on the Nosy Be Island. Here the patchouli plants could be protected from the sharp sunlight by the foliage of other plants and this favorable cultivation combined with a careful harvesting process creates a high class multifacetted patchouli oil. The Nosy Be fragrances of Perris are as today, also an Edp version of Patchouli Nosy Be, which was released 2014 a year before the extrait, as also an Ylang Ylang Nosy Be in Edp and Extrait. These will be reviewed later on.

Patchouli Nosy Be starts with the herbal, leafy, almost fresh, patchouli which is present in most niche patchouli offerings from the latest years, an early example is Histories de Parfums Noir Patchouli but this one is sharper, rougher and more transaparent in its herbal leafiness. Also Franck Boclet Patchouli comes to my mind in the initial accords. After a while warm spices appears, predominantly pepper, blended with a note of cacao simlar to the combination in for example Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly and Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 even if the latter is darker and denser. The pepper, which I also think is strengthend from the cedarwood in the base, is a bit too distinctive to my nose/taste for a short part of the dry down but is fortunately softened when a beautiful vanilla is sneeking in step by step in this contemporary woody-spicy blend with a patchouli addition. To me  Patchouli Nosy Be is not so much about patch as it is of spices, wood and vanilla, the patch is just one of the well bakanced, interplaying accords.The earlier Perris patchouli Essence de Patchouli, is much more of patchouli, more extreme and uncommon and personally I prefer this over Patchouli Nosy Be when I crave a real patchfrag. The best part of Patchouli Nosy Be is definitliy the comforting base where the spicy mixed patch is contrasted by a beautiful very natural smelling, slight flowery vanilla and discrete woody notes. The base note accords comes and goes like waves with a slight different highlighting of each of the main notes in different waves. It's a true delight wearing this perfume.

Picture: Patchouli Nosy Be Extrait
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Patchouli Nosy Be is a versatile warm fragrance, suitable for autumn, winter and early spring. It's unisex and could be worn both for work and casual. Sillage is medium and longevity good, more then a day, traces are left on skin after a nights sleep.

Rating: 5

Notes: Patchouli, pink pepper; cocoa, labdanum, vanilla, cedarwood, sandalwood

Perris Monte Carlo - Essence de Patchouli

Picture: Moon over the Mediterranean sea  (Greece)
Photo: Mr Parfumista

Essence de Patchouli is the first patchouli fragrance in the Perris Monte Carlo line. Essence de Patchouli is one of the five first fragrances which were released in 2012, the other four starters are Bois d'Oud (reviewed a few weeks ago), Oud Imperial, Ambre Gris and Musk Extrême. In 2014 a second patchouli fragrance was released, Patchouli Nosy Be which I have not smelled when writing this review but plan to test and review the coming winter. Update March 2016 - review of Patchouli Nosy Be.

Essence de Patchouli starts with a very dark, balck or dark purple if imagine a color, velvety patchouli which is silky in texture. There are also some offsetting almost "ugly" notes that could be associated with mosquito repellent but in a non sharp, again velvety texture. The repellent accord steps backward as Essence de Patchouli dries down but is present in the background to prevent the fragrance to be too polite. The patchouli in this fragrance is not of the ambery type nor the herbal, which are the two cathegories that constitutes 90% of all patchfrags. The patchouli of Essence de Patchouli is instead as the patchouli leaves have been pickled in a musky, dark flowery a tad sweet souse. As Essence de Patchouli dries further down, the dark iris/rose combo becomes more apparent even if they are intergrated to such extent that they are hard to separate from each other. The sliky, light powdery patchouli impression prevail and the powdery note reminds me slightly of the cocapowdernote of Mon Patchouly from Ramon Monegal which is also a patchouli fragrance which is not ambery nor herbal but almost gourmand, which Essence de Patchouli is not. As with some other Perris Fragrances, Essence de Patchouli is grounded in a beautiful, either not chemical nor animalic smelling musk. The musk creates an intense, long-lived fragrance and it pronounces and highlights the other ingredients. Woody notes warmed up with a light touch of resin deepens the fragrance.

Essence de Patchouli mediates the picture and feeling of dining outside on a terrace by the sea a warm mediterranean summereveing with the dark velvettextured sky dark lighted by the silver full moon.
In darkness, texture, mood and apperance Essence de Patchouli reminds me of a forgotten gem which is based on a completely different note (incense) Juozas Statkevicius/Josef Statkus from the designer of the same name.

Picture: Essence de Patchouli
Photo: PR Perris Monte Carlo (c)

Essence de Patchouli is appropriate to wear in most seasons, in summer one has to be extra careful when applying, a little goes ong and too much could be totally overwhelming especially when warm weather outside. To me Essence de Patchouli is a feminine creation even if it definitly could be worn by brave men. The silage is moderate to big and longevity for 24h.

Essence de Patchouli is another winner from Perris Monte Carlo, it's not happen often that the releases from house have a hit rate like this house when it comes to fragrances that I think is memorable and longing to wear even after the tests for the review is over.

Those who like Sergel Lutens Borneo 1834, Chanel Coromandel  and Prada Intense will probably also appreciate Essence de Patchouli even if the former three are more gourmand and the latter more floral in style.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, geranium, iris, cedar, guaiac wood, patchouli, musk, labdanum, coumarin