Maison Nicolas de Barry - Eau du Cardinal

Picture: Cardinal de Richelieu (1585-1642)
Painting by Philippe de Champaigne (1602-1674),
Wikimedia commons

Eau du Cardinal is a creation based on neroli from the house Nicolas de Barry. Nicolas has composed the fragrance and according to productinformation "Nicolas de Barry became perfumer of the Church Princes and wanted to recreate a fresh and delicate Eau de Cologne, paying tribute to the great Cardinals of France." .

Eau du Cardinal starts smooth citrusy, with the neroli and probably also orangeblossom, even if not mentioned in the notelist. A smooth and not harsh at all woody accord appears after a while to balance the citric-flowery notes, which also feels very natural, and it add a ticker texture almot dry to the fragrance, quite different to the usual, fleeting colognes.The sandalwood-neroli combinaton is very pleasant and there is also something almost soapy (probably musk) to Eau du Cardinal despite it never reach into the soapy territory, just touches it. The frankincense in the basenotes doesn't stand out as a singular note, it's so well blended with the woods.

Picture: Eau du Cardinal
Photo: Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

Eau du Cardinal is a minimalist, unisexfragrance, composed of fine ingredients. It lasts very well to be a Cologne, it is also mentioned as an Edt and I think thats the correct concentration even if one has to applicate it liberally. As it's denser and ticker in texture than a real cologne Eau du Cardinal is suitable to wear year around for daytime. It adds sun an warmth a cold, grey winterday and don't disappears too soon as most colognes during the summerheat.

When wearing Eau du Cardinal I'm reminded of Parfums MDCI Nuit de Andalouse and there is also something from Annick Goutal Néroli. Eau du Cardinal is well worth trying for those who likes well made orangeblossom/neroli dominated fragrances as for example L'Artisan Seville à l'Aube and Oscar de la Renta Granada.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, neroli, teakwood, sandalwood, frankincense

Parfums MDCI - Nuit Andalouse

Picture: Innenhof der Alhambra, 1892Painting by Adolf Seel (1829-1907)
Wikimedia commons

Nuit Andalouse is the other of the two latest launches from Parfums MDCI, Cuir Garamante was reviewed in the prior post. Nuit Andalouse is created by the risning star in the perfumers Pantheon: ISIPCA graduated perfumer Cecile Zarokian which created (together with Daniel Maurel) the epic Epic Woman for Amouage when she still was a trainee at Robertet!

Nuit Andalouse starts with a sort of stripped down, elegant gardenia and cool violet, green notes contrasted with a zesty orange. This is not the usual big white floral burst which is the start of  most orange, this is more elegant and muted. As Nuit Andalouse developes, the flowery notes gets sweeter and deeper, but not as sweet and liqueur-ish as in By Kilian Sweet Redemption, this is a natural, floral, nectar sweetness. A restrained and almost dry in texture musk is present in during the whole drydown, contributing with a slight hay-ish impression. The whole impression of Nuit Andalouse is that of a transparant but not at all cologne-ish orangeblossom fragrance.

Picture: The Deluxe falcons of Parfums MDCI,
there is also a plain version
Photo: PR Parfums MDCI (c)

Nuit Andalouse is a beautiful, well-made, elegant and very wearable orangeblossom fragrance. Maybe not that innovative or avantgarde but a high-quality, classic fragrance in a style that is timeless. Perfect to wear year around, both for office and dressed up. This is a fragrance that really cheers up a grey, chilly winterday and blooms a hot summerday. Sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Those who like lovely and uplifting orangeblossoms such as L'Artisan Parfumeurs Seville à l'Aube, Robert Piguet Blossom, Maison Francis Kurkdjian APOM Femme and Oscar de la Renta Granada will probably also like Nuit Anadalouse.

Rating: 4

Updated rating November 2015: 5 

After more wearings since the review this one has grown and I have to adjust the rating as it's a very versatile and beautiful orangeblossom with excellent longevity, on fabric for weeks.

Notes: Orange, violet, green notes, gardenia, ylang-ylang, rose, orange blossom, vanilla, sandalwood, musk, amyl salicylate (light flower/cutted gras musk note)

PS: Parfums MDCI offers generous 12 ml bottles in the samplesets on their website 

Oscar de la Renta - Santo Domingo

Picture: Santo Domingo de Guzman 
Montage by Elvisanti1, Wikimedia commons

Santo Domingo is the unisex offering in the new Oscar de la Renta Essential Luxuries collection with fragrances created by Calice Becker. Santo Domingo is a tribute to Oscar de la Rentas birth place, the capital of the Dominican Republic. The fragrance captures the flowers, spices and colors of this island country.

Santo Domingo starts with a citrusdominated accord reminding of the start of Aramis classic Tuscany but greener and with a smoother, musky touch. As Santo Domingo dries down, the white, milky, musknote gets almost predominent as it wraps the slight smoky, spicy, tobacco into a pleasant creamy blend. It's the same construction as in Granada also from this line, where the orangeblossomnotes are wrapped in the same creamy musk. The impression of a contemporary creamy/milky Tuscany also remains during the whole dry down. Another fragrance Santo Domingo reminds me of is a much gentler and polite variation of the herbal, spicy, smoky Eau d'Iles from Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, a fragrance that also founds its inspiration from the scents of the Caribian Islands.

Santo Domingo is a well crafted fragrance, the notes interacts in a very balanced way and the fragrance has no sharp edges.  Santo Domingo, just as Tuscany, is a fragrance well suited for wearing in the office. Even if smooth in texture, Santo Domingo is clearly present during the whole dry down with a medium sillage and longevity for at least a day. The review is based on Santo Domingo worn by the picky Mr Parfumista and he likes this fragrance much.

Santo Domingo is another example of the good fragances of the Essential Luxuries line. I experience the fragrances as wellcrafted and balanced, subtle and refined in the same time as these fragrances are very easy to wear. On the other hand, they are not especially innovative or distinctive. All of the fragrances feels warm and comforting in their apperance and these fragances are well worth trying for those who are searching for a    wellmade and wearable everyday scent.

Rating: 4

Notes: Mandarin, citrus, bergamot, coriander, geranium, tobacco, vetiver, patchouli

Oscar de la Renta - Sargasso

Picture: Lines of  Sargassum 

Photo: Unknown, source NOAA FishWatch 

Wikimedia commons

Sargasso is a green slight flowery-acquatic, happy and sunny fragrance in the Oscar de la Renta Essential Luxuries line. Sargasso will express the essence of the Sargasso Sea, it's deep bluegreen
color and exceptional clarity that  touches the shores, the scents of salt and the marine vegetation that washes up to the beach at Oscar de la Rentas house.

Sargasso starts with an accord that is constructed (to my nose) as it has an embedded accord similar to the start of classical Eau de Rochas. It's just like that the "Eau de Rochas-accord" is a minor part of the main topaccord, which is smooth acquatic-green. When reaching the middle Sargasso becomes woodier and a bit sandy in texture, as sand meeting the salty water a sunny day, mixing in notes of driftwood and the special algae for the Sargasso Sea, Sargassum, just as the marketingblurb says. I can also smell traces of a flowery note, note that also is present in the base. The basenotes are smooth woody-green with supported by a slight white musky note, the same as present in Granada from this line, but to a lesser extent in Sargasso.

Sargasso is a smooth and tender acquatic fragrance in the fleeting style that characterizes many of the latest releases from many houses. I suspect that these fragrances are pre-compliant to the coming, much stricter regulations that probably will become effective the coming summer. Sargasso is discrete and is not chemical -screaming as some acquatics tend to be. It's a officefriendly character and best suitable for the summermonth, even if wearing it in the winter, conjures the images and feeling of the warmer season waiting about some months.


Sargasso is a fragrance for those who like Calypso Marine by Calypso Christiane Celle even if Marine is more distinctive, woodier and mediates a more watery feeling.

Rating: 3

Notes: Mandarin, lemon, juniper, petitgrain, spearmint, cucumber, lentisque, fennel, driftwood, patchouli, cypress

Oscar de la Renta - Coralina

Picture: Acacia constricta flower,

Photo by Stan Shebs (c) some rights reserved, Wikimedia commons.

Coralina is a mimosadominated contribution to the Essential Luxuries line of Oscar de la Renta. It's the third flower dominated fragrance of the line besides Mi Corazon (tubereuse) and Granada (orangeblossom).

Coralina starts with a sparkling, sunny, very yellow and natural smelling mimosa. The fragrance is happy and clean in a positive way (not detergent). The mimosa is brighter than I usually percieve the note, I typically smell it a bit darker and golden, powdery in scent and texture. As Coralina developes an almost cold violetnote appears, contrasting to the warm, sunny mimosa. Iris is also mentioned among the ingredients but I can't dedect it as a separate note, probably it balances the violet, preventing it from beeing (too) nice and sweet. There is also a part of Coralina that reminds me of light and elegant leather, but this part lasts only for a while wheras the mimosa take the centerstage again, supported by a green with traces of the crisp, greenness of bulbflower leaves. When reaching the basenotes, Coralina gets a bit of the mimosapowder, but on my skin just a hint.The main impression of Coralina in the basenotes is that of the fragrance fleeting around in an accord of mimosa/flower/musk which lasts good but is less interesting than the first half of the developement of the fragrance. Compared to another mimosa i have tried, Annick Goural Le Mimosa, Coralina is lighter in structure and with less body. The fragrances are different interpreations of this nice, yellow flower. Also Maria Candida Gentile Hanbury which have clear elements of mimosa is more fullbodied.

Coralina wears close to the skin and the lasts for long, 24h, subtle and full. A discrete and officefriendly fragrance that doesn't offering any sensations, just lingers, creating a comfortable aura to the wearer.

Rating: 3

Notes: Mimosa, violet, iris, musk, wood

Oscar de la Renta - Granada

Picture: Patio de los Arrayanes, Alhambra, Granada.

Photo by Jan Zeschky, (cc) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved.

Granada is a beautiful orange/orangeblossom fragrance which is a part of the 2012 introduced exclusive line of Oscar de la Renta - Essential Luxuries. In Sweden the Essential Luxuries will be introduced in February 2013.

Granada starts with a juicy orangenote, very true to how a fresh cutted orange smells. Inch by inch, Granada settles into a flowery blend where the orangeblossom interacts with jasmine and rose. The flowery blend is creamy in texture and there is a  sort of balsamic note present. Now and then the juicy orange shows up in short glimps, even in the base this tempting note is present. Granada is sort of circular in it's dry down, the some notes appears, disappears and re-appears. Except from the juicy start, Granada is very close to Maison Francis Kurkdjian APOM pour Femme, in some stages they are almost equal. To my nose APOM poue Femme is a bit greener, woodier, sharper and with a light detergent note that is not present in Granada. Granada is the nice little sister to the tougher big sister APOM pour Femme. Granada could evoke images of the inner courtyards of the palace of Alhambra during the time of the Moors, the rippling water of the fountains and ponds, the voices and laughter of the girls of the harem.

Even if  not a complicated fragrance (or despite of that), Granada is very plesant to wear and it lightens up a grey and cold winterday with its warm and happy appearance. Perfect for work or pleasure year around, a fragrance to choose when it's hard to decide what to wear. Longevity is very good, about 24h and the sillage is medium.

Granada is highly recommended to those who like L'Artisan Seville à l'Aube, Elie Saab Le Parfum and both MFK APOM pour Femme and APOM pour Homme.

Rating: 4

(As a follower to APOM pour Femme, Granada falls sligthly in points. If Granada has been the first of the two fragrances, the same had happened to APOM pour Femme)

Notes: Jasmine, rose, orange blossom