Olivier Durbano - Heliotrophe

Picture: A bottle of Heliotrophe with the bloodstones (heliotrophes)
which are the inspiration for the fragrance
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c) 

Heliotrophe or bloodstone is the semiprecious stone that inspiered to this red and warm perfume from Olivier Durbano.

Heliotrophe starts balsamic, with a hint of mandarine and a smell similar to red "autumberry" notes such as cranberries and rowan berries. There is also a tender, juicy, spiciness present combined with an almost powdery slight vanillic note, probably the heliotrophe (flower). After a while a herbal impression also appears. The herbal note creates a slight medical impression. In its earlier stages, Heliotrophe reminds me of Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge. Later Heliotrophe deepens and gets warmer with a light saffronnote which interacts with the resins and woods in different layers of the perfume, just as the incense typical for all the perfumes in the Bijoux Pierre Poemes. Heliotrophe is the smells from the forest with it's morass' a sunny day in the early autumn.

Picture: Another peace of inspiration to Heliotrophe
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Heliotrophe is another outdoor fragrance from Olivier Durbano. Not as extreme as the ultimate fragrance for outdoor life, Black Tourmaline (see earlier review) instead a softer, gentler and friendlier one, easier to wear and suitable also for work. The sillage of Heliotrophe is close and longevity for less then a day. On fabric Heliotrophe lasts much longer and its character strangely enough shows off better on fabric then on my skin. Even if a bit tame compared to the other testes Durbanos, it's an original scent well worth testing.

Rating:3+

Notes: Elemi, olibanum, ginger, blood mandarin, angelica, chili pepper; saffron, magnolia, nagarmotha, heliotrope, myrrh, cedar, sandalwood, musk, ambergris, benzoin

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample