By Kilian - Smoke for the Soul

Picture: Kilian himself personify
his new line - Addicted State of Mind
Smoke for the Soul
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

Smoke for the Soul is one of three fragrances that constitutes the start of a new By Kilian subline called "The addicted state of mind.  Smoke for the Soule is created by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin.

Smoke for the Soul starts cold and slight mentholic, probably from the eucalyptus, soon a bitter citric note appears,  followed by a note close to dry, unsweet liquorice. After a while the smoke appears, a smoke similar to the smell of a forest fire. When the smoke subsides, the cold green mentholic accord comes forward again, accompanied by a natural smelling cardamon note. There is also something that smells similar to wet tobaccoleaves glimpsing in the background. The overall structure is sharp, woody, cold spicy/herbal.

Picture: Smoke for the Soul
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

Overall Smoke for the Soul is a weird perfume. At first it's easy to be confused and condemn it as a high-end but easy going fragrance, likable for most people. But soon I become aware of my mistake, Smoke of the Soule is alternately repulsive and likeable, feels alternately refreshing and depressing. It has something familiar but overall it's a strange composition. It's lighter and more fleeting than some other fragrances with "drug" elements such as Nasomatto Black Afgano ticker, a bit sweeter and fullbodied compared with SftS and Parfumerie Generale Cozë also sweeter,denser and more spicy/herbal. When the fresher sides of SftS shines through, there is something (the chilly herbal quality) in the overall apperance that reminds med of
De Bachmakow from The Different Company.

Smoke for the Soul is suitable (in small doses) for daytime wear but not in too warm or too cold temperatures, perhaps autumn and spring is the best seasons for this fragrance. Overnight longevity and sillage is close. It's classified as unisex and I agree with that, it's totally genderless.

Not my favorite By Kilian but as always with the Kilians a wellcrafted, high quality fragrance that at least creates a reaction, which is not common among the current releases.

Rating: 4

Notes: Eucalyptus, grapefruit, tobacco, mate, birch, cashmirwood, cannabis, cardamom

Olivier Durbano - Black Tourmaline

Picture: Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)
This also applies to the pictures below

Black Tourmaline is another fascinating fragrance from the jewellery/perfumehouse Olivier Durbano. It's one of the earliest releases of the house and a part of the Bijoux de Pierres Pòemes which is fragrances inspired from different semi-precious stones.

Black Tourmaline starts heavy with a very  natural smelling tar-note. Soon Black Tourmaline smells like an Isle whisky, with its notes of tar and turf with a tad of smoke. The incense is interplaying well blended with the other notes. As Black Tourmaline dries down the tarry wood notes are softened by different dry spicy notes. There is also a hint of a quite rough leather but not as rough as in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir which is the fragrance that I find most similar to Black Tourmaline, Cuir is almost a sort of turned up follower of  Black Tourmaline, even if Cuir also have the original smoky note that resembles grilled meat. Cuir is overall a stronger and heavier perfume. In the basenotes the dark and potent notes of Black Tourmaline are offsetted by an accord similar to the smell of the forest floor which provides the fragrance a sort of aronatic, fresh and clear expression. I guess this is achieved by the mossy and patchoulinotes interacting with the spices. To me Black Tourmaline is totally unsweet, opposed to MdO Cuir which have some resin sweetness. Sometimes I find such total lack of sweetness i a perfume as a relief.

Black Tourmaline is, just as MdO Cuir, a sort of "outdoor perfume" a fragrance which immediately gives me associations to the autumnal hunt in the swedish forests. The woody and damp smells from the forest, the smoke from the campfire when taking the lunchbreak, the smell from the well oiled riefles and smeared leathery guncases, the woolen, moleskin and leathery smells from the clothes. Black Tourmaline is a unisex fragrance not leaning either to the masculine or feminine side as opposite to MdO Cuir which I find very masculine. It's a perfume for daytime casual wear but could be worn to work if very sparingly applied, this is potent stuff. Sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Black Tourmaline could  be appreciated by those who likes Amouage Interlude Man, Carner Barcelona Cuirs and Nasomatto Black Afgano.

Rating: 5

Notes: Cardamom, coriander, cumin, frankincense, pepper, smoked wood, oud, leather, precious woods, musk, amber, moss, patchouli

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Robert Piguet – Bois Noir

Photo: Bois Noir de Robert Piguet
All rights reserved (c)

Bois Noir is one of five fragrances in the Nouvelle Collection by Robert Piguet that was introduced in 2012. Bois Noir is created by the “housenose” Aurelien Guichard.

Bois Noir starts almost loud with potent dry but warm woody-peppery notes and I suppose it’s the peppery aspects of the cedarwood as oud is not included in the notelist but there is of course possible there is a pinch of it in the blend. In the topnotes and most of the middlenotes Bois Noir is close to the powerful Cuirs by Carner Barcelona, but Cuirs is rougher, with more distinctive burned, leathery, woody, peppery, spicy notes. Cuirs has almost a hint of the smell of a hot sausage. Other fragrances that comes to my mind is Nasomatto Black Afgano even if that one is sweeter and with a slight, dark herbal touch. Also Montale Dark Oud with peppery oud that is balanced by warm sandalwood, is in the same style.

As Bois Noir drys down it becomes smoother and more balsamic in character. The patchouli is not evident as a distinctive note, it’s just there balancing all the woodiness with it’s earthy backdrop. Resiny and balsamic notes are stepping forward the more Bois Noir dries down. When settling in the base the woody notes is almost balsamic-creamy with a touch of sweetness from (I suppose) the labdanum supported with some delicate musk. This final stage lasts for much longer than 24 hours and it’s one of the most beautiful woody accords that I have experienced in a long time: It’s very addictive.

Bois Noir is a fragrance that is tricky to handle. As it’s very concentrated one has to be very careful when applying (two-three spritzes), if not it could be overhelming and almost headache-inducing. Even if similarities with other fragrances mentioned it’s an interesting fragrance that wins in the long run. It’s important not to dismiss it as another Cuirs or Black Afgano in it’s earlier stages, the following parts are well worth waiting for.Bois Noir is the best interpretation I smelled so far in this woody-peppery-spicy- style. It’s a fragrance with a very strong precense, a real statement, but without taking over the whole space.

To me Bois Noir is totally unisex even if I think that the “average perfume consumer” will say it’s leaning to the masculine side. Bois Noir is the perfect scent for the autumn, the storng, woody, peppery accords in the top and the almost creamy, spicy woodiness in the base perfectly accompanying a walk during a chilly autumnday with colourful rustling leaves around the feet. It’s also a good officescent at least I got compliments wearing it: “A very good smelling frag, it smells like autumn”.

Rating: 5

Notes: Gaiacwood, cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, balsam, cistus labdanum absolute

By Kilian - Love and Tears

Foto: Herr Parfumista (c)

By Kilians Love and Tears (Surrender) är en ren, klar och högkvalitativ jasmindoft skapad av Calice Becker som i mitt tycke verkligen doftar ren jasmin. Inga irriterande binoter, som grön banan i Nasomattos i och för sig väldigt fina Nuda, se review i maj i år. Love and Tears börjar med lätt animaliska, "indoliska" noter, så sonens kommentar "luktar svinstia men samtidigt väldigt gott" stämmer på pricken. Sedan tonar det animaliska bort och en härlig, ren jasmin i bästa form blommar ut. Jag kan känna en liten lätt brödig not som mjukar upp LaT men den är bara trevlig. Sedan är det mest ren jasmin på frisk, lätt grön bas resten av dagen.

LaT är alltså tämligen linjär och enkel i sin konstruktion. Samtidigt innehåller en jasminolja av god kvalitet så många facetter att den i sig är en parfym med olika noter. Därför vinner oftast jasmindofter på enkelhet i uppbyggnaden och sparsamma doser med supporterande ingredienser. LaT är personifierar en varm och solig dag i början av sommaren. En mycket lättburen doft som passar både i jobbsammanhang och under festliga omständigheter. Perfekt för sommarbruden eller en studentska i vitt. Jag kan också tänka mig att LaT kan pigga upp en kall vinterdag med sin glada solighet. En avslappand och mycket välgjord doft som håller ofragmententerad hela dagen och som är en riktig handledsmagnet.

Betyg: 5

Noter: Bergamott, petit grain, jasmin, apelsinblomma, ylang-ylang, cistus labdanum, cypress

Nasomatto - Nuda

Bild: Jasminum polyanthum, foto KENPEI, CC, some rights reserved, Wikipedia

Excentriska, holländska parfymhuset Nasomattos Nuda är rakt igenom jasmin och lyfter fram många olika facetter av denna doftgigant. Jag anar att doften är grundad i varmt sandelträ och mysk, men i övrigt är det en ren jasmin baserad på en naturlig jasminolja. Nuda lyfter fram både jasminens rena och vita sida, den fruktiga och något av den animaliskt, lädrigt lite lortiga, även om den i det senare fallet inte går alls så långt som  Maître Parfumer et Gantiers Jasmine se min review på Parfumistans dagbok för ett år sedan http://blogg.expressen.se/parfumistansdagbok/entry.jsp?messid=606000

På mig startar Nuda i en fruktig jasminnot som dofter lite som färsk, inte helt mogen, banan. I denna fas känns Nuda vida omkring men det varar bara en stund. Sedan blir den torrare och vitare för att därefter anta en viss läderton och lite lortighet. När den stabiliserat sig så pendlar den mellan dessa stadier ibland med den tillkommande banannoten. Totalt sett är intrycket av Nuda rund och creme-igt vitblommig. Nuda är behaglig och finns där som en skin-scent dvs den har ingen större projektion. Men så är den också en parfym som dessutom är gjord på naturligt jasminextrakt och parfymer och naturliga råvaror smälter i regel in mer i huden och finns där exklusivt för bäraren själv. Efter den kraftfulla starten så blir jag också lite besviken på att Nuda sedan blir så pass stillsam, doften är så fin så jag vill att den ska ha en större aura. Men jag misstänker att det är en egenhet med jasmindofter med stort inslag av naturliga ingredienser: Kraftfulla i starten men sedan får jag trycka näsan mot handleden för att känna dem ordentligt. Precis samma händer med Montales Jasmin Full som är liknade i stilen även om den har ett större inslag av annat = apelsinblomma.

Sammanfattingsvis en mycket fin och elegant doft som passar en brud på hennes bröllopsdag. Nackdelen är den begränsade projektionen, åtminstone på min hud. Men med en hyfsat kraftig finns ändå tydliga fragment kvar av Nuda efter ett dygn.

Betyg: 3+

Noter: Jasmin

Nasomatto - Nuda (english version)

The excentric Dutch perfumhouse Nasomattos Nuda is a straight through jasmine fragrance. I highlights the many different facets of this fragrant giant. I suspect that the scent is anchored in warm sandalwood and musknotes, but otherwise it is a pure jasmine based on the natural jasmine oil. Nuda highlights both pure and clean white jasmine, it's fruity aspects and some of the dirty, animalic and leathery notes. Although in the latter case it does not go nearly as far as Maître Parfums et Gantiers Jasmine which is a real dirty "horse and stable" fragrance which I love.

On my skin Nuda starts with a fruity note of jasmine that smells a bit like fresh, not quite ripe bananas. In this phase Nuda projekts widely but it only lasts for a moment. Then it becomes drier and brighter and then take on a particular note of leather and some dirt. When Nuda is stabilized it commute between these stages, sometimes with the additional green banana note. Overall, the impression of Nuda is round and creamy white flowers. Nuda is very comfortable and it's a skin-scent with low projection. But it is also a perfume that is  made ​​with a high precentag of natural extracts and jasmine oils.Natural ingredients generally wears more close to the skin and is there exclusively for the wearer herself. After the impressive start, I get a little disappointed that Nuda then become almost quiet. The scent is so good that I want it to have a larger aura. But I suspect it is a peculiarity of the jasmine fragrance with a large element of natural ingredienses: Powerful in the beginning but then I have to press my nose against my wrist to know them properly. Exactly the same happens with Montale  a fragrance which is similar in style although it has a larger element of another flower = orange blossom.
Nuda is a elegant fragrance fit for a bride on her wedding day. The disadvantage is the limited projection, at least on my skin. But with a fairly strong application, there will still remain distinct fragments of Nuda after a whole day.



Rating: 3 +

Notes: Jasmine

Ett par favoriter

Mycket att göra i veckan så det blir inga längre utläggningar. Är just nu såååå förtjust i L'Artisans Nuit de Tuberose men så är jag ju också en stor tuberosefantast. Även Nasomattos Black Afgano är en favorit för tillfället, en helt motsatt doftgenre. Det blir aldrig som man tror - häromveckan skrev jag ett inlägg om vilka dofter jag kände för den närmsta tiden. Som så ofta blev det något helt annat. Men där har vi återigen tjusningen med parfymintresset - sinnesstämningen och omgivande intryck gör att allt planerat plötsligt kastas om.