Olivier Durbano - Black Tourmaline

Picture: Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)
This also applies to the pictures below

Black Tourmaline is another fascinating fragrance from the jewellery/perfumehouse Olivier Durbano. It's one of the earliest releases of the house and a part of the Bijoux de Pierres Pòemes which is fragrances inspired from different semi-precious stones.

Black Tourmaline starts heavy with a very  natural smelling tar-note. Soon Black Tourmaline smells like an Isle whisky, with its notes of tar and turf with a tad of smoke. The incense is interplaying well blended with the other notes. As Black Tourmaline dries down the tarry wood notes are softened by different dry spicy notes. There is also a hint of a quite rough leather but not as rough as in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Cuir which is the fragrance that I find most similar to Black Tourmaline, Cuir is almost a sort of turned up follower of  Black Tourmaline, even if Cuir also have the original smoky note that resembles grilled meat. Cuir is overall a stronger and heavier perfume. In the basenotes the dark and potent notes of Black Tourmaline are offsetted by an accord similar to the smell of the forest floor which provides the fragrance a sort of aronatic, fresh and clear expression. I guess this is achieved by the mossy and patchoulinotes interacting with the spices. To me Black Tourmaline is totally unsweet, opposed to MdO Cuir which have some resin sweetness. Sometimes I find such total lack of sweetness i a perfume as a relief.

Black Tourmaline is, just as MdO Cuir, a sort of "outdoor perfume" a fragrance which immediately gives me associations to the autumnal hunt in the swedish forests. The woody and damp smells from the forest, the smoke from the campfire when taking the lunchbreak, the smell from the well oiled riefles and smeared leathery guncases, the woolen, moleskin and leathery smells from the clothes. Black Tourmaline is a unisex fragrance not leaning either to the masculine or feminine side as opposite to MdO Cuir which I find very masculine. It's a perfume for daytime casual wear but could be worn to work if very sparingly applied, this is potent stuff. Sillage is medium and longevity for 12h+.

Black Tourmaline could  be appreciated by those who likes Amouage Interlude Man, Carner Barcelona Cuirs and Nasomatto Black Afgano.

Rating: 5

Notes: Cardamom, coriander, cumin, frankincense, pepper, smoked wood, oud, leather, precious woods, musk, amber, moss, patchouli

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Amouage - Interlude Man

Picture: Rheum rhabarbum, leaves and shafts.

Photo: Dieter Weber (Uellue), (cc) Wikimedia commons,

some rights reserved

Just as its female counterpart Amouage Interlude Man starts up anything but pleasant. Interlude Man starts with a strong, burned accord, resembling a turned up version of the burned wood accord of  Mona di Orios Les Nombres d'Or Cuir (in swedish summary in english here). As the accord in Cuir is leaning to the smell of an open fire accord where some meat is grilled a grey autumnday, the burned accord in Interlude Man remids me of the smell of burnt rhubarb pie as there is a light vanillic note glimpsing in the background. When the smoke has tuned down to a more comfortable level the tart, green, rhubarb note becomes more apparent. As rhubarb is not in the notelist, I suspect there is the oregano, the pepper and the incense that creates the tart and spritzy sensation. There is also something that is close to the taste of Zig-Zag pastilles (at least swedish readers probably knows this, pached in small red boxes with white letters on.) In the basenotes Interlude Man settles in well blended, woody, among them the typical oudnote, slight leathery notes. The woody note is smell very natural to me, almost as I sniff on a just cutted down conifers. The projection is large (be warned don't overapply this one) and the longevity is great, 24h+. Interlude Man suits very well for evenings but also as a scent for the day during the colder month of the year. To me Interlude Man is unisex even if leaning to the masculine side. Just to compare, I think Mona di Orios Cuir is more masculine in its expression than Interlude Man.

All in all I think Interlude Man is to close to Mona di Orios Cuir in style and personally I like Cuir better as it's more firm and clear in it's smokey, rough leathery woody character. Interlude Man feels like more uncertain about what it wants to convey. Starts though and rough but later leans anxiously to some tarter ans also sweeter subnotes. The blend also weakens in character and becomes more common, dry, peppery, woody, oud in style, a style that is all but original these days. In the latest stage of the basenotes the blend clears up and get much more interesting: The tart note similar to a smoother geranium becomes evident and this latest stage of Interlude Man i also think is the best one, the oud is similar to that in Mona di Orios Les Nombres d'Or Oud. All in all Interlude Woman to me are more uncommon and therefore I, despite its muddly note (on me), appreciate it much more than Interlude Man.

Rating: 3

Notes:  Bergamot, oregano, pimento berry oil, amber, frankincense, opoponax, cistus, myrrh, leather, agarwood smoke, patchouli, sandalwood

Thanks to Amouage for the sample to test.