Puredistance - Opardu

Photo: Opardu by Puredistance, all rights reserved (c)

It's hard to find the right words to describe Opardu, the new creation (will be released in November 2012) by masterperfumer Annie Buzantian for the Austrian/Netherlands nichehouse Puredistance founded by Jan Ewoud Vos. Even if Opardu is classical in it's texture and gives a familiar impression, it's hard to find obvious perfume references. Opardu is one of it's own kind. Opardu is said to be inspired of the vibrant nightlife of Paris in the 1920s. It is classical but not at all dated in style, and it express the feeling of the nostalgic looking back of years gone by.

Opardu starts with soft green floral notes, emphasizing floral. The greenery is more of the violet leaf type, not the rougher (but in a surprisingly gentle way) galbanum that is present in my favourite of this classy line so far, Antonia. Already from the start I percieve the same level of elegance as is present in Antoina, but Antonia is more of a pronounced daytime elegance where Opardu is the contrasting, mysterious and graceful night bird.

The flowery notes confuses me, a note similar to violet is present and something that reminds me of hints of orris but without the famous carrotnote.The mysterious flower is lilac and Opardu in color and texture is just as a bale of exclusive lilac silk velvet. Good lilac scents is not very common, After My Own Heart by Ineke is a well crafted example from the genre but AMOH is fresher and more outdoor in style.

Opardu also presents a pleasent almost slight creamy powdery accord that has some similarities with a subdued lipsticknote. The powder probably emerges from the heliotrophe but I also think aldehydes is included as Opardu (despite differences in flowery notes and scent) has some of the texture and expression of Esprit d'Oscar by Oscar de la Renta but Opardu is more polite and polished in style.

In the basenotes the lilac accompanied by an pleasant slight almondy heliotrophe, supported by a light handed white musk together with a beautiful soft cedarwood that blended with the heliotrophe smells close to sandalwood. Opardu ends as a soft, woody, lilac.

Opardu is an example of a wellcrafted, quality fragrance that unfold it's secrets in different very well blended layers, just as a budding flower.It's a relaxing fragrance that gives a calming almost sad/biitersweet pleasure during the whole drydown. Regarding the vibrant 1920s inspiration of Opardu, my impression is it's a perfume created for the sofisticated nightlife, visiting the Opera and dining at an elegant restaurant instead of dancing wild on a jazz-club. Personally I feel a connction between Opardu and the decade before, the early 1910s and the fashion of Paul Poiret with it's peacock feathers, muted velvet silk, sweeping, comfortable silk dresses with sophisticated oriental patterns, something I think is intermediated by the Puredistance advertesing picture above, just as the original below.

Picture: Poiret model 1914

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Opardu is avaible in perfumeconcentration and therefore it wear close to the skin. The stayingpower is good, Opardu lasts good for a day. To compare, Antonia (also pure perfume) is more radiant and has a 24h+ stayingpower. Opardu is also suitable to wear in daytime and I can image it will be particularly appealing duirng the chilly but bright, early winter-spring days.

I think fans of (among themselves as different scents) Chanel No 5 Parfume, Amouage Gold (in swedish) and Dia, but also Histoire d'Parfums Blanc Violette, and Guerlain L'Heure Bleue will appreciate the beautiful Opardu. And of course; every true admirer of a wellcrafted perfume.

Rating: 5

Notes: Tubereuse, gardenia, rose, lilac, carnation, jasmine, heliotrope, cedarwood, musk

Top summerfragrances 2012

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Suddenly the bright and shining early summer month of June disappeared, the high summer month of July is over and sadly most of the summer is gone. Two weeks ago I also noticed the first signs of the late summer, the late evening suddenly was dark, not bright as in the beginning of the summer. One week ago the crickets started to play a true sign of the late summer. Fragrancewise I have worn just a few typical summerfragrances, most of the preferred ones up to day I enjoy the year around. Even if I almost sampling different fragrances and not have much time to wear my favourites, here they are for summer 2012:

Nuit Etoilée (Annick Goutal): Light herbal, slight smoky this one reminds me of a starry night in the asphaltjungle.

Cologne Friction (Parfums de Nicolaï): The ultimate, green, grassy, cologne for lazy summers. Perfect for vacation in the archipelago or just anywhere. And for looking at a game of tennis.

Corps et Ames Eau de Toilette Apaisante (Parfumerie Generale): A 1970s inspired chypre-light featuring the verbena note. An airy and bright interpretation of the original CeA Edp.

Rebel (Antonio Visconti): A soothing, refined patchouli with delicate notes of dark and dry chocolate.

Cristalle Edt (Chanel): There is (almost) nothing like this citrus-mossy classic when it's comes to summer casual chic.

Impossible Iris (Ramón Monegal): Year around elegant-chic. Has made a rapid career and is now among my most appreciated irises.

Rose Etoile de Hollande (Mona di Orio): Monas lovely rose is an olfactorial masterpiece is a multifacetted creation that reflects both the brightness and the dark sides of the rose.

Amoureuse (Parfums DelRae): Whith it's dark, almost decaying flowers blended with cardamon, Amoureuse is a beautiful gem suitable for alls seasons. Love it.

Ubar (Amouage): There is a golden shimmer surrounding the white flowers of this fine Amouage classic. Always right to wear in it's understated elegance, the quiet sister among Dia and Gold.

Black Oud (Montale): This classic dark rosy, leathery, patchuli oud becomes creamy in texture when worn in warm and humid weather. And never fails to attract compliments....

Van Cleef & Arpels - First

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

First was the first fragrance of the jewellerhouse Van Cleef & Arpels and it was the startingpoint for jewellers also bringing out perfumes under their brands. Later Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgarí etc followed. First was launched in 1976 and is among the earlier perfumes of the master of transparency, Jean-Claude Ellena.

But First is anything but transparent. This is a huge, soapy, aldehydic, floral. The flowers are green, crispy bulbs, flowers of the early spring as tulips, hiacynts, narcissus, daffodils and lilly of the vally. And lots of other potent flowers as tubereuse, orchid, jasmine etc. But there is also a warm fruitiness in First which balances the green, slight chilly, crispiness of the bulbs and gives the composition a warm and sunny feeling. To all this, First is all about soap. The aldehydes lends the composition a well behaved but very distinct soapiness that many consider to be oldfashioned, and probably it is. But to me the soapiness gives First a retro vibe, it is an element that signs First to it's time, the late seventies and early eighties.

Other fragrances that reminds me of First is first of all :-) K de Krizia, the notes are very similar and they smell very close to each other. Ivoire by Balmain is in the same sopy style but I perceive that one as less bold flowery. From Ivoire the line goes to a contemporary, and therefore much more restraint interpretation, Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens. BdS focuses on iris and hiacynth but conveys the same feeling in appearance as First, translated to our zeitgeist. Also Amouages Dia has similarities with First, but Dia is, in my opinion, much more tuned down. First is a alternative to Dia, acheiving a similar effect but much more affordable.

First (I have tested the current EDP version) has an excellent longivity, it is present for a whole day, also in tough conditions: It lasted even after more than two hours in the swimmingpool. Not exactly the right enviroment for an elegant creation as First. First is for dressed up occasions during daytime or meetings where you need to take a centerplace.

Rating: 4

By the way: I just love those extensive notelists of the perfumes of the seventies and eighties.

Notes: Aldehydes, black currant, mandarine, raspberry, peach, bergamott, carnation, tuberose, orchid, orris root, jasmine, hiacynth, rose, ylang-ylang, lilly of the valley, narcissus, civet, honey, sandelwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, vanilla, vetiver, oakmoss,

Amouage Opus I,II,III

Så sitter jag nu här, trots försök att spjärna emot,  fångad av Opus! Tyvärr, tyvärr verkar det inte som om Amouage har passerat sin höjdpunkt som jag "hoppades" i föregående inlägg. I det följande beskrivs intryck efter att ha doftat på stickor samt intrycken från pågående provning av den jag gillade bäst. Det är alltså inte någon review baserad på ett "analyserande bärande" utan spontana, första intryck.
Rent generellt kan jag nog tycka att Opusarna är ett steg för Amouage att flirta med en bredare kundgrupp. Ingen ger ett lika traditionellt Amouage-bombastiskt intryck som tex Gold, Dia och Epic. Det här är mjukare, snällare dofter som smälter in på ett sätt så att de tilltalar fler. Mer västerländskt anpassade kan man kanske säga. Det är som vanligt med Amouage högkvalitativa ingredienser och en intressant utveckling, i alla fall i den jag testar på huden. Man väntar liksom på vad som ska komma runt hörnet. Även om jag är väldigt fötjust i vissa av de bombatiska ( särskilt Epic) så tilltalas jag mycket av Opusarna och särskilt då:
Opus I: En doft i genren modern chypre. Opus I är den som jag provar just nu då den tilltalade mig mest från doftstickan. Och den tilltalar mig desvärre väldigt mycket, den har en egen tonalitet med inslag av en mjuk kardemumma som är mycket fin. Det finns också något som påminner om något från min barndom, närmare bestämt en nagelbandssalva med en speciell ros-ton som min mamma hade. Henns farmor i sin tur hade haft den så produkten i fråga (minns inte vad den heter) borde vara bortåt hundra år i alla fall. Ska bli spännande att se om Opus I håller ihop ordentligt framåt kvällskvisten. Eftersom den är så mycket mildare och diskret än de traditionella Amouagerna finns viss risk att hållbarheten under dagen inte är lika bra.
Opus II: Den mest unisex, åt det manliga hållet i trion. En finstämd, lite hög och ren incensedoft. Inget som sticker ut men den höga kvaliteten märks tydligt, den blir aldrig för tjock eller tät. Men har man redan en del incensedofter så blir den här lite av en repris. Klassad som en aromatisk doft av Amouage.
Opus III: Är nästa Opus ut för testning på huden. Från stickan känns den mer kompakt, hoptryckt, tät och lite åt det gourmandiga hållet men samtididgt inte så söt. På  stickan har den inte samma egna identitet som Opus I. Men det är något som kan ändras när den kommer på plats för att utvecklas på huden. Klassad som en floral-oriental av Amouage.
Får se om jag satsar på trean i morgon eller om jag behöver Amouage-paus. Det är småjobbigt att utvärdera sådana här  komplexa dofter där det gäller att ha samlat alla intryck innan provet är slut. Rapport om slutklämmen på I:an följer också.