UNUM - Opus 1144

Picture: Central tympanum, the Western (Royal) Portal at cathedral of Chartres (ca 1145). These architectural statues are the earliest Gothic sculptures and
were a revolution in style and the model for a generation of sculptors.
Photo: Cancre (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia commons

Opus 1144 is the second fragrance from the Italian nichhouse UNUM. Opus 1144 is inspired from the gotic era which was started approximately 1144. The fragrance is inspired from the stone in the cathedrals and the grey skies of Normandy, a birthplace for the Gotic style and culture.Just as with LAVS, Opus 1144 is created by Filippo Sorcinelli with help form the secret parfumer.

Starts like a natural lemony (not chemical lemon pledge) contemporary Shalimar without the animalic notes in the original one and less vanillic then the "Route" Shalimars-line. In the Opus 1144 middlenotes the powder intesifies and becomes deeper, a sort of wet, chalky, putty powder. Now the vanilla also intensifies, probably because a clear musky note, complementing the discrete, cold flowers which are also present. In this stage Opus 1144 reminds me of a more vanillic and less flowery Oriza L. Legrand  Jardins D'Armide .  Also the oriental vanilla Kèora from Jean Couturier comes to my mind. As Opus 1144 dries further down it becomes darker, deeper, balsamic, resin and ambery now with slight salty, animalic notes from the ambregris. Tanken as a whole Opus 1144 is quite linear even if the fragrance changes to deeper nuances as it dries down.

Picture: Unum Opus 1144
Photo: PR Unum (c)

Even if classified as unisex, Opus 1144 to my nose is very feminine, like a fluffy angorajumper. Unfortunately, Opus 1144 doesn't remind me of medival times at all, to me it's more of a fragrance for a very feminine and elegant lady. The concept is not new, this is a classical fragrance directly in the footsteps of Shalimar. Opus 1144 powdery elegance is combined with a certain cosy comfort. It's perfect for autumn and winter, could be worn during the day but most people would classify it as an evening perfume. Sillage is medium+ and longevity overnight, a cosy, lemony, powdery, vanillc accord remains after 24 h. This is strong stuff (perfume strength) and one has to apply sparingly.

Those who like powdery fragrances as Huitème Art Poudre de Riz which is less sweet than Opus 1144 as also deep, woody vanillas like Montale  Boisé Vanille will probably also like Opus 1144.

Rating: 4

Notes: Jasmin, mandarin, elemi, bergamot, iris, orchid, cashmere wood, musk, ambregris, vanilla, benzoin, leather, sandalwood

Vero Profumo - Rozy EDP

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

The rose variations Rozy  from Vero Profumo are said to be inspired from the intensive (to say the least) italian actress Anna Magnani and espceially the movie The Rose Tatoo. As usual the fragrances from Vero Profumo is created by the founder of the house, Vero Kern. Today my impression of Rozy EDP and in the next entry, Rozy Voile d'Extrait.

Rozy EDP starts with an accord that reminds me of the honeyed flowery/rosy a bit lipsticky in texture start of the clasic  Shocking by Elsa Schiaparelli. But after a while Rozy EDP takes its own track, a delicious, fruity, golden nectar, honey and rose. The passionfruit, characteristic for the EDP:s of Vero Kern is deeper, denser and more gentle than in for example Rubj EDP or Kiki EDP. Something original with Rozy EDP is the mix peach, rose, honey and lilacflowers which gives the fragrance its own, original characteristic, its texture is almost inky and the smell has also some similarities (cold, wet metallic) with fluid ink. As a contrast, a soft, smoothing sandalwood is interacting. In the basenotes there is an animalic, dirty quality, powdery almost like putty in texture, a combination that I like very much, present also, but much more powdery, in fragrances as Etat Libre d'Orange Putain de Palaces and Huitéme Art Poudre du Riz. Overall, the resemblance with something that could be a contemporary and more sofisticated (at least compared with current EDT, haven't tried the vintage perfume) Shocking by Schiaparelli lingers during the whole drydown. In the basenotes something that  vaughely reminds me of a flowery version of Amouage Gold Extrait in the older formula is also present as also a resemblence with Antonio Visconti Rose Savuage.

Picture: Rozy EDP
Photo. PR Vero Profump (c)

Rozy EDP is a beautiful, retrostyled rose that distinguishes itself among other dark, dramatic roses. Longevity is very good, traces are left unfragemented almost 24h later. The sillage starts big but lingers to close and in the end to a skinscent. Rozy EDP could be worn year around even if I think it would be great for the colder season or for chilly summerevenings.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, peach, passionfruit, honey, lilac, hyacinth, tarragon, sandalwood, powdery notes

Huitième Art - Monsieur

Picture: Monsieur in its stylish bottle
Photo: PR Huitième Art (c)

Monsieur is the latest fragrance in Pierre Guillaumes line Huitième Art where each fragrance emphasizes on a special ingredient. In Monsieur different nuances of wood is the star and it's the first fragrance that is classified as masculine in the line, just as the excellent Poudre de Riz from last year was classified as (and really is) feminine. The review is based on comments from and my own impressions from Mr Parfumistas several wearings of a sample from Fragrance & Art.

Monsieur starts strong woody, the fizz of fresh cedar and sandalwood is prominent, underscored with incense. Vetiver and blond woody notes supports interacting with heavier notes as oak and a dry, clean and stripped down, woody patchouli, it's not the typical earthy and herbal "full" patchouli. The over all impression is a dry woody fragrance, linear in its construction as almost everything happens at the same time. When sniffing Monsieur another true woody Pierre Guillaume  fragrance  from the Parfumerie Générale line comes to my mind: L`Eau Guerriere even if that one is in a brighter and lighter context, but not in strength. Another fragrance comparable with Monsieur is Robert Piguet Bois Noir. There also something that resembles parts of Puredistance Black but Monsieur is drier and louder.

Monsieur is a reaible, true woody fragrance intensified with incense which creates a sort of radiating impression. It's in the cathegory "perfect for office" as it's smells appealing and inoffensive. Unfortunately the longevity doesn't match the strong initial impression, Monsieur stays at skin for about 6-8h (on Mr Parfumistas scenteating skin). On the other hand, on a paperstrip or cloth, it stays for days.

Despite not an original and innovating fragrance, it seems as sort of created in a rush and to be honest, not really worthy a nose that have created gems as for example Poudre de Riz,  Cozë and Papyrus de Ciane   Monsieur is a good choice for those in search for a contemporary, basic, woody fragrance.

Rating: 3         (my initial rating was 4 but after some further sniff & consideration I concluded that this is nothing but a good basic woody fragrance ie 3)

Notes: Patchouli, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, poplar buds, incense, papyrus, oak, oakmoss

M.Micallef -Art Collection Rouge No 2

Picture: The beautiful bottle of Rouge No  2
Photo: PR M.Micallef (c), all rights reserved

Rouge No 2 in the M.Micallef Art Collection 2013 is a just as comfortable, delicious sibling to Rouge No 1. Just as the latter, Rouge No 2 is created by the Micallef housenose Jean-Claude Astier and the red stunning bottle, a variation of Rouge No 1 by Martine Micallef herself.

Rouge No 2 just as Rouge No 1 starts sweet and delicious but to my nose No 2 is less soft fruity-vanillic and  lend more to green, tangy black currant notes but with a fudgy gourmand edge. In the middlenotes a whiff of a note (not mentioned among the ingredients) that smells almost as soft non-sweet coconut occurs but the mainplayers are violet and orchid underscored with jasmine, making a more serious impression than the louder middlenotes of No 1. There is something in this stage that reminds me of a clean and proper version of ELDO Putain des Palaces. Unlike the latter, there are no dirty or dangerous notes lurking beneath and the violet-orchid combo is not lipstick-y nor powdery. Even the animalic note that appears (castoreum), is somehow clean as a brand new luxuary fur coat. Beside the animalic note also the rest of the base of Rouge No 2 is darker, with resins and less vanilla than No 1. Another fragrance that Rouge No 2 reminds me of is Poudre de Riz by Huitème Art.

Overall my impression is that Rouge No 2 are darker and the more serious, intorvert sibling of the Rouges. Rouge No 1 has a happier, easy to go and more extrovert character than No 2. Both fragrances will suit for the occasions when one have to take care of oneself and to be wrapped in Rouge No 2 is just as comfortable as to be surrounded by No 1. Just as the charcters of the fragrances, No 2 is preferred for philosophical and No 1 for more outreach activities. Rouge No 2 could be worn year around expect in sunny summerheat but is on the other hand, perfect for dark late summer evenings. Sillage is medium and longevity is for 24h. A wellblended fragrance of high quality. Rouge No 2 is just as good as No 1 but my favorite is No 1 as i find it more original and intriguing, Rouge 2 doesn't stand out from the crowd as much as No 1. I think they complement each other in a good way. Both Rouge No 1 and No 2 are well worth trying for those in search for a just enough sweet, olfactory delight of high quality. These fragrances have nothing in common with the shrill fruity-florals which could be found among some mainstream offerings.

Rating: 4

Notes: Citruses, black currant, nutmeg; jasmine, violet, orchid, vanilla, labdanum, amber, castoreum

Best of 2012

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

When it comes to perfumereleases 2012 was a good year bringing some beautiful stuff to us Parfumistas.
Here are my top ten from what I have sampled of the 2012:s in no particular order:

Nuit Etoilée (Annick Goutal): NE was a growing liking for me, it unfolds it's full beauty in the summerheat.
Urban, woody-herbal to me.

Impossible Iris (Ramon Monegal): Probably this was released before 2012 but as the exceptional Ramon Monagal line was launched internationally this year I include it. An elegant iris that is amplified by a light berrynote and contrasting flowers. A harmonious blend.

Ivoire (Balmain): What a sucessful reformulation! I like this fruity and sparkling version even better than the stricter original galbanum-accentuated Edt which is a great classic.

Opardu (Puredistance) Dreamy, elegant, powdery lilac that captures the spirit of the Paul Poiret fashion of the 1910s. Already a classic in my book.

Chypre Palatin (Parfums MDCI): Retrostyled with the dry gunpowdernote that I appreciate so much. And some slight animalic notes lurking in the background.

Poudre de Riz (Huiteme Art): Boozy notes and subdued tropical flowers in a dry powdery context creates an elegant, retrostyled fragance.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete (Guerlain): This wellbalanced spicy, leather, oud with a intricate note of jasmine and cardamom is my favourite of the Les Deserts de Orient trio. At the moment at least, Rose Nacree du Desert comes close and could take over some day.

Dama Bianca (XerJoff): Wellbalanced white flowers contrasted by a wheat-malt note over a beautiful base of vanilla. The elegant comfortscent of the year.

Oud Stars Al-Khatt (XerJoff): Elegant, creamy, white flowers with jasmine as mainplayer, interacting with a beautiful laotian oud. As Ubar in an oud-interpretation.

Rose Etoile de Hollande (Mona di Orio): A soft, dark, velvety, resiny, medium pink rose, retro in style. The last creation of Mona, named to her honour by her businesspartner Jeroen Oude Sogetoen.

Vero Kerns beautiful chypre Mito, the leather/tobacco Speakeasy (Frapin), the woody-spicy Bois Noir (Robert Piguet) and the Neela Vermeire Creations trio Bombay Bling, Trayeé and  Mohur should also be mentioned among the best of 2012.

If I had to choose just ONE it would be Opardu for its timeless features and its appearance. It's almost as I'm sniffing a classical floral-powdery Guerlain or even a classical Chanel in the style of No 22.

Parfums MDCI - Chypre Palatin

Picture: The bias cut look of Madeleine Vionnet
from the 1930s evokes the spirit
and texture of Chypre Palatin



Chypre Palatin is a beautiful fragrance with a strong retro vibe from the french nichehouse Parfums MDCI. Chypre Palatin is created by the, to said the least, very active perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. Chypre Palatin is presented as a masculine fragrance by the perfumehouse but when it comes to my nose, it’s unisex leaning a bit to the feminine side.

Chypre Palatin starts powdery dry, with that almost gunpowdery note that is present in Les Nombres d’Or Ambre by Mona di Orio. A multiple grades stronger interpretation of the gunpowdernote is the classical beginning of Teint de Neige by Lorenzo Villoresi. As the dry down continues, some soft, very wellblended flowery notes (particular from bulbous plants) shows up, supported by smooth tonka and different resins that creates a warm and delightful oriental-chypre (more oriental than chypre) fragrance in the style of Dior Dioressence, but smoother and without the rosy effect of Dioressence. But beneath all the wellbalanced pleasure of Chypre Palatin there is a slight, animalic note (probably the costus) lurking that gives this beautiful fragrance an interesting contrast. Also a sublime, dark, plummy, note is present in the later stages of the dry down.Chypre Palatin to me evokes the image of a fragrance from the 1930s worn by an elegant lady also wearing a bias cut dress by Madeleine Vionnet, but Chypre Palatin is interpreted in a contemporary style ie in a smoother and officefriendly shape. The oakmoss is invisable compared to the fragrances of the former era but probably there in the small IFRA restriced dose that is allowed today.

Chypre Palatin is a fragrance in the ongoing trend of retro inspired, elegant, powdery, fragrances that seems to be en vogue at the moment. Other representatives, even if featuring different notes besides the powdery notes, are Puredistance Opardu (lilac), Huiteme Art Poudre de Riz (tobbacco and tropical flowers) and Parfums de Nicolaï Musc Intense (powdery rose).

Chypre Palatin is a pleasant, versatile, elegant and very wearable fragance that could be worn in daytime for office or formal events year around except during warm summerdays. The sillage is very close and the longevity is almost a day. My only objection to this classy blend is that I which it was a bit more radiant, now it is almost a bit weak on my (dry) skin. As a fragrance of high quality, it’s still there, unfragmented at the end of the day. Maybe this is not  an issue for wearers with moistier skin.

Rating: 5

Notes: Lavender, labdanum, hyacinth, galbanum, sage, clementine, aldehydes, iris, jasmine, gardenia, rose, plum, styrax, benzoin, tolu balsam, vanilla, castoreum, leather, costus, oakmoss, immortelle

PS: Parfums MDCI has an affordable sampleset sold from the website that could be highly recommended. For EUR 90 (within Europe) 5x12 ml of their fragrances will be sent by the mail.

Huitième Art - Poudre de Riz

Picture: Pierre Guillaume celebrates ten years as perfumer

with his own house Parfumerie Generale.

Couldn't resist borrowing this picture from Fragrantica

Photo: Fragrantica (c)

I said it before and had to repeat it again: Pierre Guillaume is too tough for my creditcard. This autumn he  seduces me with two beautiful fragrances, the Djhenné as I reviewed earlier this week and now Poudre de Riz, a totally different beast from his “showcasing one special note surrounded by other high quality ingredients collection”; Huitième Art.

Poudre de Riz is instant love, opposed to Djhenne which was growing on me during the testing. Poudre de Riz is a warm and very comforting slight powdery floral woody musky blend with oriental vibes. Poudre de Riz is dominated by tropical flowers blended with coconut and vanilla, which create a warm and very comfortable feeling. To me there is something in the top and middlenotes that smells like blond, fresh tobaccoleaves (even if tobbaco is not mentioned) mingled with vanilla and a dry coconut and later on with a subdued rose-iris accord accompaning in the background. These flowery notes fleets in and out during the rest of the dry down, it creates a depth and a certain elegence to the fragrance. Poudre de Riz gives me retro vibes, I image a fragrance created about hundred years ago, in the era before WWI. In the basnotes, besides the flowery, slight wet musky impression, powdery notes from tonka and benzoin appears. There is also an almost balsamic warmth present. A fragrance that reminds me of Poudre de Riz is Kèora by Jean Couturier with it’s warm, tropical flower blended in vanilla. Also Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Fleur des Comores has something similar in style even if Fleurs de Comores is sweeter, more flowery and a bit dirty compared to Poudre de Riz. There is also a dry vanillanote that is close to L’Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille which also contains the tobacconote. Maybe the note similar to tobacco is a facet of vanilla, I don’t know. In texture and expression there something in Poudre de Riz that reminds me of a clean variation of the slight dirty Etat Libre de Orange Putain des Palaces, maybe the powdery, dense feeling.

Poudre de Riz is first of all the true comfortscent for the colder months. I also think it will fit also for warm summerevenings as the sweetness is subdued and the powdery musk creates an almost cool impression under the right conditions.

Rating: 5

Notes: Tiare, coconut milk, vanilla, rice, maple sap, rice, caramel, iris, sandal- and cedarwood, rose, tonka been, benzoin, tolu balsam

Top Fall Fragrances 2012

Picture: Maple leaves

Photo: Mr Parfumista 

As I read the toplists of some of the major perfumeblogs yesterday, I was inspired and couldn’t resist putting together an own list. Autumn to me is the best season for wearing perfume, the darker, warmer, heavier ones is suddenly suitable together with the intense or heavy floral fragrancs from the late summer. Here are some fragrances that I’m longing for at the moment (even if they are rarely worn as I’m in a intensive samplingmood):

Coco Noir (Chanel): Contrary to most of the perfume bloggosphere I was instantly fallen for this elegant, dark, slight spicy, musky, patchouli. Chic and wearble at the same time.

Ambre Gris (Balmain): This sweet and in the same time salty gourmand is like slipping in to a smooth and soft cashmerejumper. Perfect for warming up in grey and rainy days.

Lyric Woman (Amouage): Only recently, after years of recurrant testins, I understood this dark, red, cinnamon spicy, resin and incense grounded beauty. Mysterious and eternal. Maybe I will understand this years dissapointment Interlude Woman in a couple of years too.

Cuirelle (Ramón Monegal): This delicate suede with some boozy undertunes is elegant, smooth and with some interesting twists in it’s dry down..

Belle en Rykiel (Sonia Rykiel): This warm and comforting and in the same time interesting lavendel-coffe and milk – incense over a vanillic base, is a recurring favourite for fall.

Rochas Femme Edp (Rochas): Starts almost like a plummy liquer in the top notes, dark, mellow plums and spices over a woody, chypre base. The Edp is velvety, rounder and closer in sillage compared to the more radiant, sharper, heavy upon cummin Edt which is also good.

Seville à l’Aube (L’Artisan Parfumeur): Not as original or sensational as expected after months of hype in Perfumeland. But it’s a very good and wellcrafted very wearble orangeblossom fragrance, warm and comforting, reminding of warm summer evenings.  

Opardu (Puredistance): This elegant, lilac, powdery, slight musky fragrance, transports me hundered years back in time, to the era just before WWI. True elegance and beauty.

Kiki Edp (Vero Profumo): Intense and original passionflower, lavendel blend over a dark, patchouli base. This is just delicious.

Auburn (Andy Tauer): The intense and warm tobbacoaccord is amazing in Auburn. Auburn is like the essence of autumn, sparkling, maple leaves, high chilly air and an intense blue sky on a sunny autumnday.

Poudre de Riz (Huiteme Art): Elegant interpretation of rose combined with some tropical flowers grounded in a powdery, musk-vanillic base. In texture and expression almost like a clean variation of  ELDO Putain des Palaces.

Which fragrances are your favourites for this Fall?