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måndag 3 oktober 2016

Puredistance - Sheiduna

Picture: Perfumer Cécile Zarokian holds
the first sample flacon of Sheiduna Perfume
Photo: Puredistance (c)
Finally it's here Sheiduna, the long awaited release from Puredistance, the first since the beutiful flowery White early in 2015. White was also my "Best of 2015" .This time there is an oriental theme, the first oriental from the brand, in the spicy subcategory. Perfumer is one of the stars of later years, the talented Cécile Zarokian, creator of favorites of mine as Parfums MDCI Nuit Andalouse, Laboratorio Olfattivo Kashnoir, Masque Tango and of course, her breakthrough creation as one of the perfumers of Amouage Epic Woman. Sheiduna is released in pure perfume.

Puredistance tolds us about the inspiration of Sheiduna "With the creation of Sheiduna we wanted to bridge the sensuality from the Orient with the elegance from Paris. Wearing Sheiduna one wafts sensuality and at the same time feels like being wrapped up in a warm, soft blanket. Deep colours of Persian rugs touch the senses".

Sheiduna starts with a burst of a peppery note, maybe it's the clove/incense. Soon this fizzy intro steps back and a beautiful sort of deep, lush citric accord appears grounded in a light rosy touch. The tangerinenote appears very realistic, the best interpreation of tangerine I have smelled so far. A light gunpowdery dry note (as in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Ambre) also appears as also something soft and eveloping, slight Asian-kitchen-gourmand, green spicy coconutty note, a soft verision of a similar accord in Neela Vermeire Creations Ashoka. This accord is acting as a delightful background also for the rest of Sheidunas drydown. As Sheiduna dries further down, an accord appears dominated by a note of new-laid  vetiver, embedded and sort of glaced in spices and amber/balsamic notes. There is something rooty, green and tart with glimpses of a dry but warm incense, which contrasting the spicy/ambery/balsamic, oriental notes. The gunpowdery element reapperas in the basenotes together with the salty ambery note of ambergris. Blended with other oriental notes, this creates a special, a bit tart, dark, slight orange-y, balsamic, vintage, with a touch of the "old books", smelling accord which maybe is a sort of trademark for Cécile Zarokian as I have smelled it in various degrees in Kashnoir and Tango.A resembling note/accord is also present in Balenciaga Prelude. In the basenotes of Sheiduna I can also smell elements of a deep, soft dark rose.
Picture: The glowing Sheiduna
Photo: Puredistance (c)
When wearing Sheiduna I can understand the Persian inspiration (despite the light Asian-kitchen accord mentioned above), and than not just from the rugs. The fragrance brings forth an impression of spices, dried fruits, dark flowers, the architecture  and most of all the sunset in the desert with the glowing sun over the dunes.

Sheiduna is an intriguing fragrance, the impression shifts with and within each stage of the drydown. Much is going on, like a game where the interaction of the notes/accords quickly turns into contrasts and back again. The fragrance is warm and comforting, perfect for autumn/winter. But the enlighting and contrasting notes doesn't reserve Sheiduna just for the cooler month, the perfume will be a good choice also for humid and warm summer evenings.  The contrasting structure of Sheiduna prevents this contemporary oriental fragrance to become cloying and dense.

Sheiduna is classified as unisex which I agree with even if I think it lends a little bit more to the feminine side. The longevity is very good, traces are left after 24h, sillage is significant.

Rating: 5

Notes: Lemon, tangerine, geranium, rose oil, incense, myrrh, vetiver, patchouli, labdanum, ambergris, benzoin, tonka absolute, vanilla absolute,

torsdag 29 januari 2015

Oriza L.Legrand - Marions Nous

Picture: The Marions Nous label
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand
Marions Nous "Let's get married" is a recreation of a 1928 Oriza L.Legrand fragrance inspired from a book and a popular comedy based thereupon.

Marions Nous starts powdery, and goes on powdery in its whole development.  The impression is very retro, just as sniffing from a bottle of an vintage aldehydic fragrance where the topnotes are slight off. Notes of orangeblossoms, bulbflowers and greenery dominates the top. As Marions Nous dries furtherdown, the green notes intesifies and the fragrance smells like a softer and less sharp version of vintage Caron Infini Edt. There is also a fresh, green chypre impression like in vintage Carven Magriffe. Classic aldehydic flowery notes like carnation, clove and rose dominate the heart of the fragrance but orangeblossom is still present. Marions Nous dries down to a musky, slight powdery, tonkabeen, sandalwood base and the true retro impression of a traditional smelling, slight animalic, aldehydic fragrance, lasts until the last whispers of the fragrance about twelve hours later, whiffs could be captured from the hair 48h later and than it reminds me  of a green sibling to Laboratorio Olfattivo Kashnoir. The powder in Marions Nous of course has the characteristic, elegant, dry, airy Oriza vibe.

With Marions Nous on the market there is no need for hunting for flowery, green aldehydic
fragrances, Marions Nous is an excellent alternative. It recreate the impression of the perfumes of the late 20s and the 30s. As a revived retro creation, Marions Nous of course is not denominated to the olfactory landscape of today and the majority probably will not understand it at all, judging it as an "old ladies scent". Despite that and from a perfumista perspective, Marions Nous is suitable both for daytime and evening wear and for any season.

Rating: 4

Notes: Orange blossom, rose, jasmine, hyacinth, aldehydes, carnation, clove, iris powder, ylang-ylang, tonka been, civet, musk, sandalwood