SOTD February 2022

Picture: A soft mossy carpet
Photo: parfumista (c)

Continuing the olfactory discovery trip from January, with a few spontaneuos reflections.

1. Cap Néroli Edt (Parfums Nicolaï) - Sunny high quality néroli.

2. Misia Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) - My favourite lipstick iris-rose-violet

3. Misia Edp (Chanel Les Exclusifs) - Also the Edp is perfectly balanced

4. Coco Edt (Chanel) - Reminds me of Krizia Teattro de la Scala.

5. 222 (Le Galion) - Calming sandalwood

6. No 5 Edt (Chanel) - Serious, serene, austere aldehydic, chalky, slight animalic. On my other arm:

    No 22 Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) to compare. Joyful and flirty, aldehydic, flowery, chalky, sunny,              trés chic. They are definitly siblings, No 5 the older, takes all responsibility, No 22 the younger              one, carefree, playing around.

7.  No 22 Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) Still trés chic.

8. Diorella Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version on my left wrist melon, peach and white flowers over a green       chypre base. An outdoor fragrance. On my other wrist:

    Diorama Edp (Dior Les Creations de Monsieur Dior) 2010s version: A cousin to Diorella, without       melon and with deeper plum and caraway instead of  the greenery. An indoor formal version. A             real wristsniffer.
9.Lady Vengeance ( Juliette Has A Gun) The prototype of a good contemporary rose patchouli, not sweet  with a natural medium pink rose. Still going strong.
10. Midnight Oud (Juliette Has A Gun) Opens with an animalic leathery accord, a dark, sultry rose appears in the dry down . Probably the real Lady Vengeance.
11. Dioressence Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version. Smells like rosewood, orange, smooth cinnamon, rose, violet, iris over patchouli oakmoss. Scent memories from my childhood.
12. Hypnotic Poison Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version dry vanilla milky almond with contrasting subtle flowers and an almost mossy base, balances the blend. So comfortable and warm in grey windy weather.

13. Oud Bouquet Edp (Maison Lancôme) Sweet, dark, milky vanilla and rose ( the typical slight powdery Lancome rose) over a contrasting balanced oud. Delicious and very long lasting

14. No 19 Edt (Chanel) Flawless, cold, clean and dry green iris boquet. 

15. Eau de Ciel Edt (Goutal) The smell of the dry grass of a sundrenched meadow a sunny and hot  slight breezy day in the high summer. The smell of hay. Very special and distinct, light application is needed even if an Edt.
16. Attar Edp (Montale) A quite early batch, pleasant to wear, humble, deep, woody, red rosy , no screachy or peppery notes. 

17. Peut-Être Edp (Maison Lancôme) 2020 version. An uplifting, airy, straight forward pink rose, so easy and uncomplicated to wear. Nice!

18.  L'Autre Oud Edp (Maison Lancôme) 2020 version. More depth than Oud Boquet, boozy, incense, dark red rose supported by a well balanced oud to something almost winey, like a ruby red port.

19. Orchid Leather Edp (Van Cleef & Arpels) The slight boozy, plummy, balsmic aspects are dominating during this wearing, not so much leather more of cold spicy accents.

20. Leather Oud Edp (Maison Christian Dior) The electric smell of dust on a varm bulb (also present in fragrances as Mona di Orio carnation and Tèo Cabanel Kaspar) over a boozy accord almost as soaked in a dry plumliqueur and with a slight animalic touch. 

21. Gucci Oud Edp (Gucci) A darker woodier variation of Gucci by Gucci with the characteristic raspberry/rose combo sweetness  that is present in many contemporary fragrances.

22. Angel Edp (Mugler) The honeyed dark chocolade notes over that special clean, stripped down patchouli are still unique after almost 30 years. My bottle from ca 2007, the liquid  is still bright blue, stored under dark and cool conditions.

23. Angel Edp (Mugler) On repeat today, in a lighter dose, almost aquatic notes emerges and the fractioned patchouli.

24. La Vierge De Fer  Edp (Serge Lutens) The beautiful innocent white lily meets cold steel and incense, an olfactory illustration of this dark day.

25. Boxeuses (Serge Lutens) Subtle leather with dark plum sweet contrasted with some dry spicey notes. Discreet despite its name. 

26.Cristalle Edt (Chanel)  the symbol of true casual chic sunny cold green lemon perfect for a sunny winterday

27. Chance Eau Tendre Edp (Chanel) Light rosy musky cold sort of  D&G Light Blue fresh feeling even if not smelling alike.

28.  Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Fresh, happy, sparkling and warm neroli/orange/citrus with its own twist, something that reminds me of the smell of orange and citrus hard candy pastilles. A contemporary orangeblossom.

Conclusion: Chanelfragrances seems to be the most worn in February. So glad I re-discovered the original Angel after neglecting it for years.

SOTD January 2022

Picture: A shy rose
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Trying to find out if there is a pattern/ some connection between the fragrances I'm wearing during a period of time. First step is to capture data about it, then analyzing.

Day/Month January 2022
1 L'Ombre Des Merveilles (Hermès) - Worn the Elixir Des Merveiilles on New Years Eve to warm up in the grey weather, wanted a lighter follow up on the first day of the new year.

2.Sucre d'Ebene (Pierre Guillaume, Huitieme Art Collection/Black Collection) - Cosy warm woodden sugar with touches of nutty elements. Perfect for a grey and rainy/snowy day (ca 0 C) as today. Beware: Very strong, unfortunately I overdosed a little from the small sample. 

3. Pour Monsieur (Chanel)  - I read somewhere Fragrantica? Basenotes? Bois de Jasmin?  somebody's notice that ladies shouldnt't miss to try this out for themselves. And I totally agree after todays testing from my sons bottle, the light green tinted formula, I think it's reformulated recently and is not longer green. CPM is so very good in a  timeless, casual, elegant way: Starts with a classy Chanel citrus-neroli accord over fresh soft cold spices grounded in okamoss and vetiver. Lasts very well on my skin and unisex IMHO. 

4. Angéliques Sous La Pluie (Frederic Malle) - Today it was sunny and not rainy at all. As ASLP reminds me of spring and I wanted something relaxing but distinctive  and the sample ASLP just appeared, it was the obvious SOTD.  The angelica and juniper are awesome in this timeless Jean Claude Ellena creation in his typical watercolour style. ASLP somehow reminds me of spring.

5. Orangers en Fleurs (Houbigant) - Grey outside today and it's snowing, Orangers en Fleurs is the perfect moodbooster with its sunny apperance. An orangeflower/white flowers in similar style but higher on the notescale than Serge Lutens Fleurs d'Oranger and the cumin of the latter exchanged with a soft note of nutmeg. 

6. Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Fresh, happy, sparkling and warm neroli/orange/citrus with its own twist, something that reminds me of the smell of orange and citrus hard candy pastilles. A contemporary orangeblossom.

7. Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Can't resist Riviera.

8. Les Eaux Paris - Édimbourg (Chanel) - The best of them all in the Les Eaux Collection a contomporary interpretation of lavender but most of all; juniper berry and juniper wood.

9.  Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - So sunny and warming during another grey winterday.

10. Une Rose (Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle) - A semidark red rose, polite and subtle, well balanced, natural smelling combined with a slight boozy accord. Calming and a real pleasure to wear.

11. Eau des Merveilles (Hermès) - This woody, salty ambregris reminds me of the sea by spring or early autumn. Versatile and strong, more than a few small spritzes will be too much.

12. 222 (Le Galion) - Elegant sandalwood with smooth leather notes fleeting around contrasted with a balanced note of myrrh and a tiny violet. A quiet and very comfortable skinscent with great longevity.

13. Bois de Violette (Serge Lutens) - a light and transparent version of the characteristic Serge Lutens woody smell  combined with  fresh flowering purple violets. In the basenotes the violets are combined with light powdery notes wich adds a slight vintage touch. Unobtrusive and calming. 

14. Roses Musk (Montale) - A bold fragrance intense as nuclear radiation. A true rosenote combined with a syntetic woody/oud note and white musk. The result is a pepper and rosecombo which is uncomplicated and strange as it may seem, a pleasure to wear once in a while.

15. Rose de Nuit (Serge Lutens) - An vintage styled dark green mossy rose chypre with musky slight animalic notes  and some almost herbal notes which take the fragrance from the feamale boudoir style in the opening of the fragrance in a masculine direction. A demanding and intriguing fragrance.

16. La Belle Le Parfum (Jean Paul Gaultier) - Either particularly sophisticated or elegant fragrance but very delightful and cozy. La Belle Le Parfum appears as a delicsious, luxurious cake with pear infused with liqeur and a fluffy boozy vanilla. Perfect for a grey windy winterday and with great longevity.

17. Rose de Nuit (Serge Lutens) - Tried RdN not as heavy applicated  today (ca 2,5 spritzes) as two days ago (ca six spritzes) and this is the right way to enjoy RdN. The same smell, not as dense when alternated with an airiness as a consequense of the lighter application, RdN qualities comes to the fore.

18. Drôle de Rose (L'Artisan Parfumeur) -  A pink rose, violet and iris paired with  a cold dry, chalky, slight dusty accord. All summon up in some kind of putty structure. Drôle de Rose reminds me of a grey windy day in early spring with some light purple clouds on grey skies. Drôle de Rose was a lipstick, the colour would be a light transperant cold pink-purple. A beautiful fragrance, reportedly discontinued.

19. Iris des Champs (Houbigant) - An unusual iris. No powder or lipsticknotes and the carrots are just glimpsing in the early topnotes. Starts dry and cold with slight peppery notes. Woody notes with the cold freshness of cedar follows and the woody impression remains during the whole dry down. In the basenotes a pleasent musk appears, its a musk somewhere in the middle, not skanky animalic nor clean white musk. A fragrance with many interesting nuances and with excellent longevity.

20. Lux (Mona di Orio) - A  play with light and dark contrasts,  a dark lemon is the main theme through the whole drydown, appears as growing in the shadow side of the lemon tree. A contrast to a  bright citrus in the sun.  Reminds me somehow of pickled lemons. Some fresh earthiness, contrasted with smooth, almost creamy woody slight dirty musky notes. A contemplating perfume, perfect for relaxing at home.

21. Black Afgano (Nasomatto) - Distinctive woody notes with a subdued oud, some glimpses of dark green, in the dry down also some dark, smooth rounded tobacco liqeuer notes. One of the best woody perfumes IMHO, no traces of that screechy woody note that is so common in woody perfumes. Maybe because my BA is well aged, it has rested under dark and cool for 10+ years, maybe it is just as good also in current formulation.

22. Akkad (Lubin) - A comforting, warm, high pitched and radiating light spicy-herbal amberfragrance. It's like the rays of sunshine.  Underneath some darker notes appears, like a well balanced, thick patchoulinote. Perfect for grey  and chilly winterdays.

23. Rubikona (Puredistance) - Such a pleasant and elegant classic chypre made in a contemporary style. A dark moss and patchouli accord, rose and a distict note of varm an bright orangeblossom and a natural sweet fruitiness. A real pleasure to wear.

24. Warszawa (Puredistnce) -  Such an elegant way to start an ordinary week .A darker chypre than Rubikona, dark iris , violet and dark moss, some dark plum liqeur, A classic in  acontemporary interpretation. reminds me  of  elegant dark  fruity chypres as YSL Yvresse, Guerlain Mitsouko and Rochas Femme.

25. Orchid Leather (Van Cleef  & Arpels)- Dark, oppulent, slight boozy, plummy, balsmic with sparkles of  fresh cardamom. Comforting in winter, a strong formula, that lasts for long,  just two or three spritzes is enough.

26. Cristalle Eau Verte (Chanel) - A beautiful and casual chic everyday fragrance not just for summer.
It's energizing glimmering slight green citrus magnolia profile is cheering the most gloomy grey winterday up.

27. Kiss me Intense (Parfums de Nicolaï) - So comforting, clean natural smelling like easter lily and heliotrope. A sweet impression, but not sugary sweet. A sort of natural flowery gourmand. Like sitting the whole day in the yellow, sunny flowerbell on an easter lily Perfect for grey winterdays.

28. Ambre Fétiche (Annick Goutal) -  One of the best ambres ever (IMHO) wearing the original formula  from an early batch. A glowing, close, velvety, tick amber with subtle incense and a dark smooth patchouli and some dry vanilla. The texture  is sort of honeyed, natural that gives it a slight gourmand feeling, A very comforting winterfragrance. 

29. Aomassai 10 (Pierre Guillaume) - To me this is a red wood cologne,. Warm, with natural gourmand notes as nut, caramel, milk, coffee and spices in a mix, offset by contrasting a woody accord which feels like it has a cologne structure. Great and unusual.

30.  Pentachords Auburn (Andy Tauer) - From AT:s earlier exprerimental line, where each fragrance consisting of just five syntetic notes inspired of a color. Auburn is an interpretation of  cinnamon, cold and dry in apperance. Waem, sunny, orangeblossom is contrasting, blended with a blond tobbacconote over some warm sandalwood and amber. A intriguing and challenging winterfragrance in a  strong formula, maximum two - three spritzes, lasts for over a day. A must try for Tauer fans.

31. Rose Pompon Edp (Annick Goutal) - A real rose favorite, so pleasant to wear.  A medium pink rose, it smells just like the color of the juice. A rose balanced with fresh raspberry and violet vanilla, but not lipstick powdery in texture. the 2020 edition.

Conclusion: Any pattern in the fragrance wearing during the wintermonth of january?  Light Chanel fragrances is the most obvious, most worn style. Besides that maybe as a opposite, heavier  oriental-ambery frags, some strong roses and gourmands reflects the season.