fredag 6 januari 2023

Best of 2022

From the very, very few I have tried from the huge output launched to the fragrancemarket 2022, the favorite fragrances  for me, was the two below: 

Picture: Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Paris
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

Chanel Paris-Paris: All of the fragrances in the Les Eaux de Chanel - line are so good and so versatile, wearable in every everyday occasion. And the 2022 addition, Paris-Paris was no exception on the contrary, this pink, transparent, slightly jammy rose patch is my favorite together with the two green ones of the line: Édimbourg and Deauville

          Picture: Eau de Basilic Pourpre
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

The unisexfragrance Eau de Basilic Pourpre is a happy, light, herbal-green transparent and very wearable fragrance from the overall so wearable  Hermès Cologne line. My second favorite of the Cologne line, close behind the original Eau d'Orange Verte  (both the 1979 and 2009 versions) and Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate.

There were also two 2022 fragrances classified as masculie which made some impression and for the right occasion/skintype also can work for woman

   Picture: MV2Q 
      Photo: PR Puredistance(c)

Puredistance MV2Q a modern slightly rough leather, business casual in style. Not as polished and classic in (tuxado) style as it's predecessor, M which sadly has to be dicontinued because of some ingredients were hit by some new IFRA standards. 

            Picture: H24 Eau de Parfum
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Hermès H24 Eau de Parfum:  Although I'm more found of the original H24 EDT with it's woolen, metallic steamnotes like ironing a light, clean woolfabric, this years EDP is also very good, even if  more conservative and doesn't stand out as much as the original. The dark green fresh moisty moss in the dry down is probably the carrier the makes the note of narcissus stand out more in this version than in the EDT.

lördag 31 december 2022

New Years Eve 2022

Picture: From my morning walk (12,27 km) on
New Years Eve 2022. Very warm weather
for the winter season (+ 7 C). Like Fall.
Photo: Parfumista (c)

 ...and I'm wearing one of my top three old time favorites the leathery, spicy, plummy, honeyed and therefore slightly animalic chypre Montana Parfum de Peau. In the original formula, housed in the all blue cardboard. Doesn't wear it often, saving the bottle and as the fragrance also takes up a lot of air space, these days it's more appropriate wearing it in the evening for festive occasions. Like this last evening of 2022. As I'm wearing a simple and clean black outfit with a  bracelet / necklace in dark jeweltones as eye-catcher, I think the ulitmate accessory, the perfume, is allowed to dominate.

When it comes to my best of 2022 I plan posting about this subject in the coming days.

Happy New Year 2023 - may peace come - Slava Ukraini!

lördag 24 december 2022

The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2022

Picture: Christmas 2022, I'm so excited
to receive this Christmas gift - despite It's NOT a perfume
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve (sunny outside and daytime temprature ca - 5) ice-glaced and just a little powdery snow. Inspired from the finnish classic coated mintchocolate pastilles "Avec", cold weather, dark Midwinter nights, snow crystals and conifer , I'm wearing Annick GoutaNuit Etoilee Edt  from the beautiful blue squarebottle. Pine and Fir with contrasing citrus (orange) and dry minty notes with traces of salty ambregris. A cold impression, yet very comforting a starry night. Somehow Mr Parfumista is  in the same mood, matching the style wearing the modern classic Comme des Garcons Kyoto from the incredible incense-line. Incense, cypress, cedar which creates a pine impression, perfect for Christmas.

Picture: The old AG Nuit Etoilee Edt square
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Below the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last nineteen Christmas Eves: 

2021: Tobacco Rose Papillion Artisan Perfumes ( dark red rose, over fresh moss, beewax, juniper)
2020: Rubikona Puredistance (contemporary chypre fresh - earthy and green accord, surounded and contrasted by smooth ,elegant creamy flowers). 
2019: Gold Puredistance (with a beautiful myrrhnote, a sort of smooth resin/sap and a cold (but not freezing) outdoor -in the wood - impression 
2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers) 
2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody) 
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals) 
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote) 
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy) 
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+. 
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals) 
2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices) 
2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices) 
2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense) 
2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental) 
2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices) 
2005: Nuit de NoëlCaron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note) 
2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers) 
2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse) 

I wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas!

PS This year I've forgotten the Midsummerfragrancepost - a half  of a year  later I can announce it was Pierre Guillaume Animal Mondain which unfold surprisingly well that unusual warm Midsummereve.

måndag 29 augusti 2022

Puredistance MV2Q

Picture: Puredistance MV2Q
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Autumn is almost here, and autumn means it is time for a new release from Puredistance. Last autumn Puredistance reached its full number with the beautiful No 12. After that, each new realease in the Collection will casuse the discontinuing or withdrawel to buy after request, of one of the fragrances. No 3 M even if very popular, was the first do go (discontinued) among others due to new restrictions regarding some of the ingredients. To replace the loss of M a new Extrait created around the leather theme is launched in September 2022.

The similarities between the old classic M and the new MV20 are (beside the high quality ingredients, the extrait formula and the pure apperance) that both are very masculine fragrances even if  I think  MV2Q could even pass as unisex despite of it's leaning to the masculine side. Also the fact that both of them are more  (M) or less (MV2Q) leather fragrances, bring them together. Then, the similarities ends, M and MV2Q are IMHO two different fragrances. M is a timeless, high quality leather fragrance in the style of Hermès Bel Ami, a sort of refined Bel Ami in a clean and smooth extrait formula. 

MV2Q to me is a contemporary, modern urban woody oriental fragrances with an accord resembling the leather chypres of the 1980s as a side kick. A bright, full and sunny version of the chyper-ish accord is appearing in the topnotes and also showing up later in a darker, more sensual moonlight version as MV2Q has dried down in to the basenotes. The leather chypre styled accord,  reminds me of a less sweet-flowery version of one of my all time favourites, Montana Parfum de Peau (vintage version). But most of all MV2Q is a modern dry and warm, balsamic spicy woody fragrance with some light traces of something almost boozy, like a deep and rounded cognac.  Among the spicy notes, on my skin, the clean woody pepper note takes the centerstage and could "take over" the composition when MV2Q reaches the middlenotes  if  not applied very light. I've tested MV2Q several times over the summer, in  very warm and also colder tempratures  and my conclusion is that one or one and a half spritz (if hot outside) is maximum for me to apply to avoid the woody pepper note to take over. The positive side is, that very little of MV2Q is enough to create a great silage and a longevity for about 24h. The extrait is very concentrated, it's rich and mellow, full of very fine quality ingredients playing with each other in wellblended accords. When MV2Q reach the basenotes, the accord similar to a modern Parfum de Peau shows up again but this time with a more oriental soft spicy touch which reminds me of  the cozy and comforting Puredistance Sheiduna. Maybe MV2Q is the masculine counterpart to Sheiduna in the Puredistance collection. In the basenotes, there is also a slight dark leather-boozy element which reminds me of MDCI Parfums excellent Cuir Garamante.

Picture: Puredistance MV2Q
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Somehow I imagine, after its sunny opening, MV2Q,  in the middlenotes, as a dry, dark, log of wood lying together with some black, leather in the desert warmed up in the sunlight at midday. When MV2Q reaches the basenotes, the sun sets and the perfume calms down and transforms to a darker, softer and cosier evening fragance. MV2Q is a fragrance that seems to be tailor-made  to accompanying the progress of the day into the night and to emphasize the characteristics of each part to the wearer. As usual with Puredistance, an intriguing, very well made fragrance, which is concentrated and therfore even the smallest 17,5 ml  flacon (pictured above) will last for a very, very long time.

Overall MV2Q will be a perfect match for the coming autumn, although I will mostly go for the more feminine Sheiduna. 


Orange blossom, Pink pepper, Lavender,
Cinnamon, Nagarmotha, Jasmine Sambac, Pine Tar,
Indonesian patchouli, Madagascar vanilla, Spanish labdanum, Tonka bean, Texas cedar

Thank you Team Puredistance for the generous sample of  MV2Q 

söndag 3 april 2022

SOTD March 2022

Picture: An adorable sight on a walk in early March
 (wearing Putredistance No. 12) -
Shetland Ponies are the cutiest.
Photo: Parfumista (c)

March 2022 - some notes about the SOTD.

1. Chance Eau Tendre Edp (Chanel) Musky light rosy, fruity - pink with lilac nuance

2. Angel Edp (Mugler) The ultimate mulitfacetted gourmand.

3. Sheiduna Extrait (Puredistance) Glowing, golden spicy ambery like sun rays over desert dunes.

4. Sheiduna Extrait (Puredistance) on repeat, one of my top Puredistances.

5. Warszawa Extrait (Puredistance) the dark fresh moss paired with dark plum in such a elegant way.

6. Gucci Oud Edp (Gucci) raspberry and dark pink rose over patchouli and well balanced oud.

7. Puredistance No 12  Extrait (Puredistance) A seamless blend of rose, iris and an accord like cristal clerar water  with a tiny bit of exclusive soap over a velvet smooth patchouli. Blue. Another of my top Puredistances.

8. Puredistance No 12  Extrait (Puredistance) another day in this beauty.

9. Peut Etre Edp (Maison Lancome) Light pink rose over musk, very pleasant and uncomplicated.

10. Lost in the city Edp (Miller Harris) Tangy rhubarb over rose with some zing from blackberry, close to Hermes Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate, which I like better, one of my favorites from the Hermes colognes.

11. Café Tuberosa Edp (Atelier Cologne) Thick tubereuse, dark chocolade and dark coffe in a delicious blend. 

12. Café Tuberosa Edp (Atelier Cologne) Couldn't resist it for another day.

13. Essence de Patchouli Edp (Perris Monte Carlo) Soapy, sort of dusty, musky dark and cold patchouli,  with a touch of something that reminds me of  a burning mosquito coil in a positive way. Unusual.

14. Coromandel Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) Earthy and clean patchouli over a balanaced dry dark chocolade amber, less sweet and more structured than the current Edp. The Edp is also very good although I prefer the Edt slightly.

15. Borneo 1834 Edp (Serge Lutens) Earthy fresh slight herbal-menthol dry dark chocolate  patchouli. Not as elegant as Coromandel, outdoorsy, classy - casual 

16. Akkad Edp (Lubin) Warm, sunny, sort of desert amber, delicious, perfect for snuggling.

17 Ambre 114 (Histoires de Parfums) Dark, herbal amber, leaning to the masculine side, classic styled amber, slight "old man" style.

18. Concentre d'Orange Verte (Hermès) I like the Concentre better for colder months with it's thicker texture and a hint of a note that reminds me of licorie which is not present in the  Eau d'Orange Verte. Both variations on a unique intermpretation of the classic colognetheme.

19. After My Own Heart (Ineke) Lovely smooth lilac with fruity notes. Comforting, warmer, sweeter and with more body than En Passant (Fredric Malle).

20. Eau de Soir Edp (Sisley) Elegant and sparkling like Champagne, I think of it as colored in gold and white, cool with beautiful, light, uplifting mossy notes. Have something in common with Puredistance No 12, similar texture and mode. Referring to a batch from mid -00, before the oakmoss regulations.

21. No 5 Eau Première  (Chanel) Smoother, sunnier, warmer not as serious cold and chalky as No 5 Edt. Easier to wear, lighter with the aldehydes. Classy. Referring to the 2008 version.

22. Concentre d'Orange Verte (Hermès) Sunny and early spring outside inspires to wear the green orange again. For the evening  No 5 Eau Première  (Chanel) on repeat.

23. Gabrielle Essence Edp (Chanel) A warm floral heart with a contrasting touch of tart notes probably from the fruity topnotes. Very pleasant, the perfect inoffensive officescent. Just like the greener and colder Gabrielle Edp.

24. Gabrielle Essence Edp (Chanel) Again - It just smells so good and is so easy to wear.

25. Dune Edt (Dior) Late 1990s formula of Dune, dry, salty, sandy, warm, sunny, high blue sky with glimpses of the sea in the horizon. Still so special.

26. Dune Edt (Dior) Couldn't resist another day in Dune, it's perfect to warming up this  cold, windy Saturday.

27. Orchid Leather Edp (Van Cleef  & Arpels) Dark, plummy leather, concentrated, a bit too masculine for me.

28: Nothing sick in flu or something similar.

29:  The same

30:  The same

31: Red Roses Cologne (Jo Malone)  Feels better celebrating with a few spritzes of this wonderful natural clean and calming rose.

It seems as Puredistance and Chanel (again) are the most worn during the month.

lördag 5 mars 2022

SOTD February 2022

Picture: A soft mossy carpet
Photo: parfumista (c)

Continuing the olfactory discovery trip from January, with a few spontaneuos reflections.

1. Cap Néroli Edt (Parfums Nicolaï) - Sunny high quality néroli.
2. Misia Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) - My favourite lipstick iris-rose-violet
3. Misia Edp (Chanel Les Exclusifs) - Also the Edp is perfectly balanced
4. Coco Edt (Chanel) - Reminds me of Krizia Teattro de la Scala.
5. 222 (Le Galion) - Calming sandalwood
6. No 5 Edt (Chanel) - Serious, serene, austere aldehydic, chalky, slight animalic. On my other arm:
    No 22 Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) to compare. Joyful and flirty, aldehydic, flowery, chalky, sunny,              trés chic. They are definitly siblings, No 5 the older, takes all responsibility, No 22 the younger              one, carefree, playing around.
7.  No 22 Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) Still trés chic.
8. Diorella Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version on my left wrist melon, peach and white flowers over a green       chypre base. An outdoor fragrance. On my other wrist:
    Diorama Edp (Dior Les Creations de Monsieur Dior) 2010s version: A cousin to Diorella, without       melon and with deeper plum and caraway instead of  the greenery. An indoor formal version. A             real wristsniffer.
9.Lady Vengeance ( Juliette Has A Gun) The prototype of a good contemporary rose patchouli, not sweet  with a natural medium pink rose. Still going strong.
10. Midnight Oud (Juliette Has A Gun) Opens with an animalic leathery accord, a dark, sultry rose appears in the dry down . Probably the real Lady Vengeance.
11. Dioressence Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version. Smells like rosewood, orange, smooth cinnamon, rose, violet, iris over patchouli oakmoss. Scent memories from my childhood.
12. Hypnotic Poison Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version dry vanilla milky almond with contrasting subtle flowers and an almost mossy base, balances the blend. So comfortable and warm in grey windy weather.
13. Oud Bouquet Edp (Maison Lancôme) Sweet, dark, milky vanilla and rose ( the typical slight powdery Lancome rose) over a contrasting balanced oud. Delicious and very long lasting
14. No 19 Edt (Chanel) Flawless, cold, clean and dry green iris boquet. 
15. Eau de Ciel Edt (Goutal) The smell of the dry grass of a sundrenched meadow a sunny and hot  slight breezy day in the high summer. The smell of hay. Very special and distinct, light application is needed even if an Edt.
16. Attar Edp (Montale) A quite early batch, pleasant to wear, humble, deep, woody, red rosy , no screachy or peppery notes. 
17. Peut-Être Edp (Maison Lancôme) 2020 version. An uplifting, airy, straight forward pink rose, so easy and uncomplicated to wear. Nice!
18.  L'Autre Oud Edp (Maison Lancôme) 2020 version. More depth than Oud Boquet, boozy, incense, dark red rose supported by a well balanced oud to something almost winey, like a ruby red port.
19. Orchid Leather Edp (Van Cleef & Arpels) The slight boozy, plummy, balsmic aspects are dominating during this wearing, not so much leather more of cold spicy accents.
20. Leather Oud Edp (Maison Christian Dior) The electric smell of dust on a varm bulb (also present in fragrances as Mona di Orio carnation and Tèo Cabanel Kaspar) over a boozy accord almost as soaked in a dry plumliqueur and with a slight animalic touch. 
21. Gucci Oud Edp (Gucci) A darker woodier variation of Gucci by Gucci with the characteristic raspberry/rose combo sweetness  that is present in many contemporary fragrances.
22. Angel Edp (Mugler) The honeyed dark chocolade notes over that special clean, stripped down patchouli are still unique after almost 30 years. My bottle from ca 2007, the liquid  is still bright blue, stored under dark and cool conditions.
23. Angel Edp (Mugler) On repeat today, in a lighter dose, almost aquatic notes emerges and the fractioned patchouli.
24. La Vierge De Fer  Edp (Serge Lutens) The beautiful innocent white lily meets cold steel and incense, an olfactory illustration of this dark day.
25. Boxeuses (Serge Lutens) Subtle leather with dark plum sweet contrasted with some dry spicey notes. Discreet despite its name. 
26.Cristalle Edt (Chanel)  the symbol of true casual chic sunny cold green lemon perfect for a sunny winterday
27. Chance Eau Tendre Edp (Chanel) Light rosy musky cold sort of  D&G Light Blue fresh feeling even if not smelling alike.
28.  Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Fresh, happy, sparkling and warm neroli/orange/citrus with its own twist, something that reminds me of the smell of orange and citrus hard candy pastilles. A contemporary orangeblossom.

Conclusion: Chanelfragrances seems to be the most worn in February. So glad I re-discovered the original Angel after neglecting it for years.

lördag 5 februari 2022

SOTD January 2022

Picture: A shy rose
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Trying to find out if there is a pattern/ some connection between the fragrances I'm wearing during a period of time. First step is to capture data about it, then analyzing.

Day/Month January 2022
1 L'Ombre Des Merveilles (Hermès) - Worn the Elixir Des Merveiilles on New Years Eve to warm up in the grey weather, wanted a lighter follow up on the first day of the new year.

2.Sucre d'Ebene (Pierre Guillaume, Huitieme Art Collection/Black Collection) - Cosy warm woodden sugar with touches of nutty elements. Perfect for a grey and rainy/snowy day (ca 0 C) as today. Beware: Very strong, unfortunately I overdosed a little from the small sample. 

3. Pour Monsieur (Chanel)  - I read somewhere Fragrantica? Basenotes? Bois de Jasmin?  somebody's notice that ladies shouldnt't miss to try this out for themselves. And I totally agree after todays testing from my sons bottle, the light green tinted formula, I think it's reformulated recently and is not longer green. CPM is so very good in a  timeless, casual, elegant way: Starts with a classy Chanel citrus-neroli accord over fresh soft cold spices grounded in okamoss and vetiver. Lasts very well on my skin and unisex IMHO. 

4. Angéliques Sous La Pluie (Frederic Malle) - Today it was sunny and not rainy at all. As ASLP reminds me of spring and I wanted something relaxing but distinctive  and the sample ASLP just appeared, it was the obvious SOTD.  The angelica and juniper are awesome in this timeless Jean Claude Ellena creation in his typical watercolour style. ASLP somehow reminds me of spring.

5. Orangers en Fleurs (Houbigant) - Grey outside today and it's snowing, Orangers en Fleurs is the perfect moodbooster with its sunny apperance. An orangeflower/white flowers in similar style but higher on the notescale than Serge Lutens Fleurs d'Oranger and the cumin of the latter exchanged with a soft note of nutmeg. 

6. Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Fresh, happy, sparkling and warm neroli/orange/citrus with its own twist, something that reminds me of the smell of orange and citrus hard candy pastilles. A contemporary orangeblossom.

7. Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Can't resist Riviera.

8. Les Eaux Paris - Édimbourg (Chanel) - The best of them all in the Les Eaux Collection a contomporary interpretation of lavender but most of all; juniper berry and juniper wood.

9.  Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - So sunny and warming during another grey winterday.

10. Une Rose (Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle) - A semidark red rose, polite and subtle, well balanced, natural smelling combined with a slight boozy accord. Calming and a real pleasure to wear.

11. Eau des Merveilles (Hermès) - This woody, salty ambregris reminds me of the sea by spring or early autumn. Versatile and strong, more than a few small spritzes will be too much.

12. 222 (Le Galion) - Elegant sandalwood with smooth leather notes fleeting around contrasted with a 
balanced note of myrrh and a tiny violet. A quiet and very comfortable skinscent with great longevity.

13. Bois de Violette (Serge Lutens) - a light and transparent version of the characteristic Serge Lutens woody smell  combined with  fresh flowering purple violets. In the basenotes the violets are combined with light powdery notes wich adds a slight vintage touch. Unobtrusive and calming. 

14. Roses Musk (Montale) - A bold fragrance intense as nuclear radiation. A true rosenote combined with a syntetic woody/oud note and white musk. The result is a pepper and rosecombo which is uncomplicated and strange as it may seem, a pleasure to wear once in a while.

15. Rose de Nuit (Serge Lutens) - An vintage styled dark green mossy rose chypre with musky slight animalic notes  and some almost herbal notes which take the fragrance from the feamale boudoir style in the opening of the fragrance in a masculine direction. A demanding and intriguing fragrance.

16. La Belle Le Parfum (Jean Paul Gaultier) - Either particularly sophisticated or elegant fragrance but very delightful and cozy. La Belle Le Parfum appears as a delicsious, luxurious cake with pear infused with liqeur and a fluffy boozy vanilla. Perfect for a grey windy winterday and with great longevity.

17. Rose de Nuit (Serge Lutens) - Tried RdN not as heavy applicated  today (ca 2,5 spritzes) as two days ago (ca six spritzes) and this is the right way to enjoy RdN. The same smell, not as dense when alternated with an airiness as a consequense of the lighter application, RdN qualities comes to the fore.

18. Drôle de Rose (L'Artisan Parfumeur) -  A pink rose, violet and iris paired with  a cold dry, chalky, slight dusty accord. All summon up in some kind of putty structure. Drôle de Rose reminds me of a grey windy day in early spring with some light purple clouds on grey skies. Drôle de Rose was a lipstick, the colour would be a light transperant cold pink-purple. A beautiful fragrance, reportedly discontinued.

19. Iris des Champs (Houbigant) - An unusual iris. No powder or lipsticknotes and the carrots are just glimpsing in the early topnotes. Starts dry and cold with slight peppery notes. Woody notes with the cold freshness of cedar follows and the woody impression remains during the whole dry down. In the basenotes a pleasent musk appears, its a musk somewhere in the middle, not skanky animalic nor clean white musk. A fragrance with many interesting nuances and with excellent longevity.

20. Lux (Mona di Orio) - A  play with light and dark contrasts,  a dark lemon is the main theme through the whole drydown, appears as growing in the shadow side of the lemon tree. A contrast to a  bright citrus in the sun.  Reminds me somehow of pickled lemons. Some fresh earthiness, contrasted with smooth, almost creamy woody slight dirty musky notes. A contemplating perfume, perfect for relaxing at home.

21. Black Afgano (Nasomatto) - Distinctive woody notes with a subdued oud, some glimpses of dark green, in the dry down also some dark, smooth rounded tobacco liqeuer notes. One of the best woody perfumes IMHO, no traces of that screechy woody note that is so common in woody perfumes. Maybe because my BA is well aged, it has rested under dark and cool for 10+ years, maybe it is just as good also in current formulation.

22. Akkad (Lubin) - A comforting, warm, high pitched and radiating light spicy-herbal amberfragrance. It's like the rays of sunshine.  Underneath some darker notes appears, like a well balanced, thick patchoulinote. Perfect for grey  and chilly winterdays.

23. Rubikona (Puredistance) - Such a pleasant and elegant classic chypre made in a contemporary style. A dark moss and patchouli accord, rose and a distict note of varm an bright orangeblossom and a natural sweet fruitiness. A real pleasure to wear.

24. Warszawa (Puredistnce) -  Such an elegant way to start an ordinary week .A darker chypre than Rubikona, dark iris , violet and dark moss, some dark plum liqeur, A classic in  acontemporary interpretation. reminds me  of  elegant dark  fruity chypres as YSL Yvresse, Guerlain Mitsouko and Rochas Femme.

25. Orchid Leather (Van Cleef  & Arpels)- Dark, oppulent, slight boozy, plummy, balsmic with sparkles of  fresh cardamom. Comforting in winter, a strong formula, that lasts for long,  just two or three spritzes is enough.

26. Cristalle Eau Verte (Chanel) - A beautiful and casual chic everyday fragrance not just for summer.
It's energizing glimmering slight green citrus magnolia profile is cheering the most gloomy grey winterday up.

27. Kiss me Intense (Parfums de Nicolaï) - So comforting, clean natural smelling like easter lily and heliotrope. A sweet impression, but not sugary sweet. A sort of natural flowery gourmand. Like sitting the whole day in the yellow, sunny flowerbell on an easter lily Perfect for grey winterdays.

28. Ambre Fétiche (Annick Goutal) -  One of the best ambres ever (IMHO) wearing the original formula  from an early batch. A glowing, close, velvety, tick amber with subtle incense and a dark smooth patchouli and some dry vanilla. The texture  is sort of honeyed, natural that gives it a slight gourmand feeling, A very comforting winterfragrance. 

Aomassai 10 (Pierre Guillaume) - To me this is a red wood cologne,. Warm, with natural gourmand notes as nut, caramel, milk, coffee and spices in a mix, offset by contrasting a woody accord which feels like it has a cologne structure. Great and unusual.

30.  Pentachords Auburn (Andy Tauer) - From AT:s earlier exprerimental line, where each fragrance consisting of just five syntetic notes inspired of a color. Auburn is an interpretation of  cinnamon, cold and dry in apperance. Waem, sunny, orangeblossom is contrasting, blended with a blond tobbacconote over some warm sandalwood and amber. A intriguing and challenging winterfragrance in a  strong formula, maximum two - three spritzes, lasts for over a day. A must try for Tauer fans.

31. Rose Pompon
 Edp (Annick Goutal) - A real rose favorite, so pleasant to wear.  A medium pink rose, it smells just like the color of the juice. A rose balanced with fresh raspberry and violet vanilla, but not lipstick powdery in texture. the 2020 edition.

Conclusion: Any pattern in the fragrance wearing during the wintermonth of january?  Light Chanel fragrances is the most obvious, most worn style. Besides that maybe as a opposite, heavier  oriental-ambery frags, some strong roses and gourmands reflects the season.

fredag 31 december 2021

Best of 2021

2021 was a very good perfumeyear, at least from the few I have tried from the huge output to the market. Below the four fragrances launched (and sniffed) 2021 that I liked the most:

Chanel Les Eaux Paris - Édimbourg
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

Chanel Édimbourg is my current favorite, it is a rare interpretation and contemporary of the classic and not so unusual juniper-fresh notes formula. In Édimbourg the juniper in the opening smells like the real berries followed by a woody note smelling very natural, as the wood of the juniper bush. Everything surrounded by an airy, watery note and a hint of a warm, very soft, slight musky lavender. A juniper of a new era, Édimbourg mediates something new without leaving its proud legacy.

Hermès H24
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Hermès H24 was controversial when it was launched this spring. I liked it from the beginning and the liking has groning ever since. The more I smell it, my son is the most frequent wearer of it in the family, the more I admire the simple but clever formula. Contemporary dry greenness, a pleasant metallic, not and best of all; the steam- and woolenaccord, as from ironing an excellent coolwool fabric. Unisex IMO. H24 will the precursor for the 2020s green genre. H24  and Édimbourg has something in common. Even if they smells different; both are casual, toned down, contemporary and mediates a sustainable approach.

As Édimbourg and H24 to my nose feels like fragrances in a new style, there were also two perfumes in the more classic field that stole my attention 2021:

Puredistance No. 12
Puredistance No 12
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Puredistance No 12, blue, sparkling like a fine sapphire, true clean watery earthy creamy rosy iris-y elegance  which reveals different faces in different wearings. The fine quality ingredients are so well blended, which makes it hard to catch the indivdual notes. A multifacetted pleasure to wear, chic elegance at its best. Here is my full review.

Chanel Les Exclusifs Le Lion
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

Chanel Le Lion (in some markets pre-launched already in 2020) is like a refined Guerlain Shalimar EDP to me.  The rough and though edges  of Shalimar (for example the accord that reminds me of wet, well worn, tweed a grey, rainy autumnday), which are a part of S:s personality  are missing in Le Lion. The wellbehaved Le Lion with its balanced patchouli-amber accord and sophicated vanilla note, which reminds me of the vanilla in the interpretation in Shalimar Ode a la Vanille Sur la Route du Mexique. Like the latter Shalimar, Le Lion with its contemporary vibe is less challenging to wear, but absolutely not dull at all.

fredag 24 december 2021

The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2021

Picture: Christmas 2021
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve (sunny outside and daytime temprature ca -10) and just a little powdery snow is the comforting Tobacco Rose from Papillion Artisan Perfumes created by the founder of the perfumehouse, Liz Moores. Like a very dark red rose placed over moisty but fresh smelling moss, honeyd - beewax accord, almost cold balsamic notes over slight salty ambregris.  Something smelling like pickled juniperberries is also teasing my nose. Overall Tobacco  Rose is very natural smelling and a suitable scent for cold weather when relaxing indoors. Mr Parfumista is wearing a real classic: Knize Ten with its fascinationg and characteristic  notes of  high quality wool fabric. The youngsters are wearing Chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore EDT respectively no perfume at all.

Below the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last eightteen Christmas Eves: 

2020: Rubikona Puredistance (contemporary chypre fresh - earthy and green accord, surounded and contrasted by smooth ,elegant creamy flowers). 
2019: Gold Puredistance (with a beautiful myrrhnote, a sort of smooth resin/sap and a cold (but not freezing) outdoor -in the wood - impression 
2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers) 
2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody) 
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals) 
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote) 
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy) 
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+. 
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals) 
2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices) 
2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices) 
2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense) 
2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental) 
2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices) 
2005: Nuit de NoëlCaron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note) 
2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers) 
2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse) 

I wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas, stay healthy and safe

söndag 7 november 2021

Puredistance No 12


Picture: No 12, 17,5 ml
Parfume extrait 25%
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Puredistance No 12 is the last creation in the Puredistance circle of extraits de parfum. There will be just twelve fragrances at time in the Magnificent XII Collection, when a new fragrance is launched, it will replace one of the other twelve. But fear not, the retired perfumes will still be able to order directly from Puredistance from a Private Collection.

Puredistance No 12 is created by masterparfumer Nathalie Feisthauer the creator of  many fragrances for example two favourites of mine  ELd'O Putain de Palaces and Hermès Eau des Merveilles (with Ralf Schweiger).The opening of No 12 is bright and shiny, there is a clean and abundant, full mandarine note which, even if close in its texture is not at all sweet and thick like marmelade. It's paried with an elegant vintage touch of bergamot, and bracing cardamon. In the frirst spritz of No.12, the opulence of this contemporary chypre with vintage vibes, is obvious. Almost in the same moment as the topnotes hits the skin, other layers in the blend introduces themselves. The beautiful, clean rose, the flower, no torns and greenery either not the rubbery note of roseoil, the seamless blend of jasmine and other classic notes as orange flowers, narcissus, lily of the vally and orris. The notes are so masterfully blended and therefore the different notes are hard separate, they just  mingles in smooth, creamy accords, fleeting like a heavenly (blue) symphony. 

The patchouli in the base of No 12 is together with rose, orris, mandrain and cardamom the note that, to my nose, stands out the most in the fragrance. The patchouli in No 12 is not used that much in todays perfumery: It's a clean (but not stripped down), cosy, soft like cashmere, sort of dry, almost powdery earthy dark chocolate type, which smothness blends lovely with the notes mentioned and with the ingredient of all real chypres: Oakmoss. The patchouli and oakmoss combo adds a clean dept to No 12.  I've found something close to this particular patchoulinote in  two totally different and more one dimensional interpretations; in  Perris Monte Carlo Essence de Patcholuli and Davidoff Zino Davidoff. None of them as smooth, elegant and creamy as No 12, theese fragrances are more of "one note"  patchouli fragrances. Another fragrance that comes to my mind is the beautiful floral chypre La Perla (the original version from 1987), although No 12 is more contemporary in style.

Picture: No 12 in all sizes
Photo: Puredistance (c)

The impression of No 12 is that of total cleanness, like clean water in a mountian stream. But the water is thick and accompanied by many nuances, for example something like a clean luxury soap even if the texture of No 12 is not soapy. It's a fragrance that surprise, with different wearings, different accords/notes stands out, some wearings I can smell a faint leather note (smooth leather from inside a luxary handbag),iris paired with a clean earthy impression. 

Compared to last years  Rubikona, No 12 is brighter and higher on the fragrance note scale, Rubikona is more muted and dark, like silky velvet, where No 12 is like fluid tick silk in texture. Both are chypres, where No12 is more of an elegant carefree daytime fragrance and Rubikona is more serious, leaning to a evening event, although both could be worn around the clock. The blue No 12 to me is a glimmering faceted, cornflower blue saphire, framed in white gold, whereas Puredistance Gold which I associated with a saphire, is a darker, cabochon cut dark saphire framed in muted gold. 

Picture: Queen Maxima of the Netherlands,
in the Mellorio Sahppire Tiara
Photo from: Pinterest photographer unknown/
Royal roaster tumbler dot com (c) 

If Rubikona evoked the vision of  the "fit and proper" powerwomen, the EU President Ursula van der Leyen, No 12 is the perfume of a Queen. The queen I come to think of is, appropriately Queen Maxima of the Netherlands. As it seems from what is written in the press, a warm, colourful and sparkling personality sometimes appearing in an elegant, bohemian chic style. The color of No 12 is regal blue, like the saphires in Maxima's imposing tiara.

Although Rubikona and No 12 are in the same family, very elegant well constructed and wearable modern chypres, I could not choose a favourite. Both are equally good and complements each other, one have to have both for variation. The overall impression of No 12 is like a sunny day, with blue sky, full of joy and complete effortless.  The parfum is timeless and proper both for casual chic and formal events. Regardless of the occasion No 12 really lifts the spirits and is a ride in true comfort. 

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Cardamom, Coriander, Ylang Ylang, Narcissus Absolute, Jasmin Absolute, Rose, Geranium, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom, Osmanthus Absolute, Orris Butter, Heliotrope, Hedione, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Oak Moss, Tonka, Ambrette, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Musk

måndag 27 september 2021

An early Autumn stroll in an amazing fragrance


Picture: Royal Castle Ulriksdal ca 1638-45
Photo: Parfumista (c)

This weekend there was sunny weather and with summertempratures. Perfect for a walk combined with capturing the first impressions of a  wonderful perfume. This perfume seems to be created for a royal but at the same time it's somehow relaxing in its performance. 

Picture: The Victoria Tower on the horizon, contemporary
dedicated to the Crownprincess of Sweden
Photo: Parfumista (c)

If this multifaceted perfume had a color, it is definitly blue as in the pictures from my walk. The texture is like a dense fluid, as if clean water could be dense like flowing, thick silk. Even though the fluid impression, this perfume is also somehow dry in its texture. 

Picture:  Reminds me of the texture of
the amazing fragrance I was wearing during the walk...
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The excellent ingredients of the perfume are combined in different layers and in a a way that gives new experiences with each wearing. Yesterday during the walk the clean fluid character with a smooth patchouli, oakmoss and orris (?) was the dominating impression, today the performance was more on the dry side and  for a moment I could smell a  soft exquisite leathernote in the dry down. 

So much is going on in this beautiful fragrance, it's like a fragrancejourney in itself.  Of course it requires  more evaluation  and  I'm planning to continue with a "proper review" later this autumn. 

Last but not least, Which one is this Master Parfume? Thank you Puredistance for the opportunity to try Nathalie Feisthauer's PUREDISTANCE NO.12

Picture: Puredistance no.12 in its beautiful
blue flacon
photo: puredistance (c)