By Kilian - Voulez-vous coucher avec Moi ?

Picture: Volez-vous coucher avec Moi? - The Perfume
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

Voulez-vous coucher avec Moi? (VvcaM?) the latest By Kilian for the new sub line (A Night) In the Garden of Good and Evil, "which draws inspiration from dark nights and exciting game of seduction".The fragrance is created by perfumer Alberto Morillas and described as a gardenia centered perfume over a smooth sandalwood.

VvcaM? starts light flowery, and is a bit tart. The flowers are white with shades of purple, the petals are cold and crispy. The first fragrance I come to think of when testing VvcaM? is Lanvin Eclat d'Arpege even if that one has a lilac themre. A light, smooth, woody accord balances the flower and as also a discrete almost fluffy vanilla. The vanilla is the earlier stages is of the down light, angelic kind as in Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk but not at all as present as in the latter. In the basenotes the vanilla is combined with cedarwood.and I can trace similarities with the base of Chanel Allure Edp. These darker nuances creates dept and character to the fragrance. VvcaM? is not especially sweet and it's also not powdery. It's a fine, clean (but not at all chemical clean) unobtrusive floral which, has little in common with the daring name of the creation. Maybe Kilian follows in the fotsteps of the latest Serge Lutens fragrances with challening namnes which are more or less the opposite to the real impression from the fragrance. Speaking of Lutens, VvcaM? has similarities to Serge Lutens La Religieuse in its smooth, dark, discrete, flowery image.

Picture: Volez-vous coucher avec Moi? - The clutch
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

VvcaM? is quite linear even if it gets darker and even if not exactly warm it's absolutely no longer cold in the basenotes. It's a very pleasant, sort of calming fragrance to wear, nothing loud, shrilly or extreme. The more I wear VvcaM?, the more I like it. Just as with La Religiuese this is a fragrance which doesn't unfolds directly, one has to be patient to tune in with this one. A contemporary, floral classic which IMO is very feminine in style.

VvcaM? despite its elegant aura, is easy and comforting to wear. It could be worn anytime of the year and for most occassions except for exercise and similar activites. Sillage is close and longevity almost for a day.

Those who appreciate Puredistance Opardu, even if that one is a bit powdery and with a lilac note, as also Ann Gerard Perle de Mousse with its almost shadowy impression with tart and moisty notes

Rating: 4

Notes: Neroli, gardenia, tuberose, ylang ylang, petalia, rose, sandalwood, cedarwood,  vanilla

Lanvin – Eclat d’Arpege

Picture: Ein Korb mit Flieder,
signiert und datiert Carl Massmann 1896, Öl auf Leinwand,
Wikimedia commons

Eclat d’Arpege created by Karine Dubreuill 2002 for Lanvin, has nothing but the name and the decoration of the bottle in common with the dangerous original (but of course reformulated) Arpége from 1927.

Eclat d’Arpege starts with some light green notes with some citrusy elements, but above all; lilac. The lilac which is not artifcial and cheap as sometimes happens with this note, it’s just like the colour of the fresh light purple lilac. There is a slight metallic vibe, but not the aldehydic type as in for example Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, it’s a more of a metallic facet of the flower. The lilac is’nt powdery as in Puredistances beautiful Opardu, the lilac note is quite clear and crips. It has more in common with another beautiful clear and bright lilac fragrance After my Own Heart by Ineke Rüland.

As Eclat d’Arpege dries down, mellower, fruity notes mixed with some warm flowers and a light tealike note appears. This accord somehow rounding off the metallic edge but the blend still stays flowery cool like a chilly day in the early spring. In the base Eclat d’Arpege is almost all about woody musk, but there is also a faint note of resin, probably the amber listed among the ingredients.  

Eclat d’Arpege is the perfect fragrance for spring, it’s overall chilly, flowery, woody, musky structure perfectly captures that season. One of the better balanced and not overly sweet fruity florals that is relatively easily aviable. It has also survived for ten years on the market, which is a sign for a certain quality. Eclat d’Arpege is somehow ageless in character, it’s a fruity-floral also for grown up’s, not obviously directed to the younger crowd. I don’t get the comparisons with Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue as that one is sharper, woodier, less flowery and with a green applenote, according to my nose. Eclat d’Arperge is smoother, more feminine and elegant in style. Eclat d’Arpege is a very wearable fragrance, especially for spring and summer but also for year around for days that demands something uncomplicated, nice smelling and office friendly. Sillage is medium and longevity not as good, less than 12h.

Rating: 3

Notes: Peony, peach blossom, tea, lilac, petit grain, osmanthus, wisteria, cedarwood, musk, amber