Visar inlägg med etikett Café Tuberosa. Visa alla inlägg
Visar inlägg med etikett Café Tuberosa. Visa alla inlägg

söndag 7 oktober 2018

Atelier Cologne - Part 1

Atelier Cologne is a house which I for many years have overlooked to discover properly. I love Jasmine Angelique and like Mistral Patchouli and Rose Anonyme very much. Café Tuberosa enticed me to try more of the line. Thanks to the generous Atelier Cologne Sales representative in Åhlens City, I've a bunch of samples to test. Here are my short impressions:
Picture: Tobacco Nuit
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)
Tobacco Nuit: A stunning transparent Tobacco from one of the Edp sub-lines of Atelier, Collection Orient. On paperstrip it first smells like a anorectic version of Kerosene Copper Skies, on skin it's tobacco, citric notes, sort of a dry smell of soft paper and finally sparkling, fresh cardamon. A proper and clean tobacco for those who are afraid of a disruptive interpretation of the note. 
Picture: Encense Jinhae
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)
 
Encens Jinhae: Also belonging to the Collection Orient, E J is dry incense wrapped in berries, pink pepper and roses. E J immediately reminds me of a smoother and more sophicated Vivienne Westwood Anglomania mixed with some Chopard Madness.
Picture: Clémentine California
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)

Clémentine California: An almost natural smell of Clementine, slight bitter but in the same time juicy sweet. Green notes like the leaves of the tree and  also a cold, breezy impression. Compared to for example Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrèe  CC is brighter and sharper in apperance, In MA the mandarine is wrapped in a soft, glowing amber.Strong and longlasting for belonging to the cologne subline, somewhere between Edt and Edp on my skin.

Picture: Café Tuberosa
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)
Café Tuberosa: I've already posted two mini-reviews of CT and therefore add both: "Starts with thick tuberose, bergamot, blended with dry cacao and maybe a hint of coffee. It's a thick blend, vintage in style reminding me in texture and style of Vero Profumo Rozy. Later there are traces of the colognestyle with hints of citric notes. " (April 2018) "What a comforting beauty! A dark oriental floral with chypre vibes. The coffee and cacao are not sharp or sticky, they blends very balanced with the tuberose in a retrostyled accord. The tuberose dosen't stand out as a flower, it's just a part of the dark blend. " (September 2018).

Further impressions from testing fragrances from Atelier Cologne will appear during the coming months.

söndag 30 september 2018

5 fragrances for Fall

Picture: From a walk in the hoods
a crisp, sunny, autumn Sundaymorning 2018
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The early autumn month of September has (almost) passed, most sunny and crisp. Probably it's therefore I still don't crave for the dark, thick and heavy frags in the oriental genre. Instead there are most lighter fragrances I've wearing during the last month, fragrances which at least some of them are good examples of transition fragrances:

Iris Rebelle (Atelier Cologne): This is my new favorite iris. Light with a very pleasant opening smelling of fresh baby carrots. Then a beautiful, clean iris appears, wrapped in smooth citric notes.

Nomade (Chloé): The best mainstream release this year , at least from the not so many I've smelled. Like a transparent and contemporary version of Jean Couturier Coriandre. Coriander and moss with a ceratin warmth added to it by delicate soft flowers and light spices. Incredible longevity for such a transparent styled creation.

Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille Edt (Annick Goutal): This is perhaps the messanger of the real autumn in the top 5. That even if the Edt of this elegant, dark, retro patchoulibased beuaty is more transparent than the Edp. A frag that boosts ones confidence. Full review (in swedish) here.

Café Tuberosa (Atelier Cologne): What a comforting beauty! A dark oriental floral with chypre vibes. The coffee and cacao are not sharp or sticky, they blends very balanced with the tuberose in a retrostyled accord. The tuberose dosen't stand out as a flower, it's just a part of the dark blend.

Fathom V (BeauFort): This damp, green, cold, watery, earthy creation reminds me of late winter/early spring but I crave this utterly intriguing composition for fall also. Full review here.

måndag 9 april 2018

Short impressions of some new fragrances

Picture: Stockholm Sergels Square,
between  NK and Åhléns,
the two major departmentstores
Photo: Borrowed from the  KTH website
I have speed sniffed some relatively new arrivals this weekend. Below some short impressions:

Hermessence Agar Ebene (Hermès): A beautiful, high quality leather, first impressions of another Hermessence; Cuir d'Ange where Agar Ebene is fuller and more mature in its texture. Somehow I come to think of a nice and anxious leather, more "simple" in construction , not as complex and charcteristic as for example Chanel Cuir de Russie with its dry gunpowdery and light flowery notes. Unisex.

Hermessence Cedre Sambac (Hermès): A full and fruity, jasmine contrasted by the fresh, slight peppery cleanness of cedarwood. An intersting combination where the jasminenote reminds me about of the jasminedominated, white floral accord of Cacharel Scarlett but less sweet. Cedre Sambac is unisex, leaning to the feminine side.

Eau de Citron Noir (Hermès): Lemon with accompaning dry, smokey teanotes and slight peppery woody notes. Refreshing, without beeing clean in style, longlasting and with a good sillage taken ion consideration it's classified as an Eau de Cologne. Unisex leaning slightly to the masculine side.

Café Tuberosa (Atelier Cologne): Starts with thick tuberose, bergamot, blended with dry cacao and maybe a hint of coffee. It's a thick blend, vintage in style reminding me in texture and style of Vero Profumo Rozy. Later there are traces of the colognestyle with hints of citric notes.

Coco Mademoiselle Intense (Chanel): As a lover of Coco (Coco Noir) in all its incarnations, the Intense Mad inerpretation is just was I expected: A darker, denser, lower on the fragrance note scale then the regular Coco Mad. The patchouli is also more pronounced and the flowers subdued compared to the original. Even if similar to each other I need both variations....