Puredistance No 12

 

Picture: No 12, 17,5 ml
Parfume extrait 25%
Photo: Puredistance (c)

Puredistance No 12 is the last creation in the Puredistance circle of extraits de parfum. There will be just twelve fragrances at time in the Magnificent XII Collection, when a new fragrance is launched, it will replace one of the other twelve. But fear not, the retired perfumes will still be able to order directly from Puredistance from a Private Collection.

Puredistance No 12 is created by masterparfumer Nathalie Feisthauer the creator of  many fragrances for example two favourites of mine  ELd'O Putain de Palaces and Hermès Eau des Merveilles (with Ralf Schweiger).The opening of No 12 is bright and shiny, there is a clean and abundant, full mandarine note which, even if close in its texture is not at all sweet and thick like marmelade. It's paried with an elegant vintage touch of bergamot, and bracing cardamon. In the frirst spritz of No.12, the opulence of this contemporary chypre with vintage vibes, is obvious. Almost in the same moment as the topnotes hits the skin, other layers in the blend introduces themselves. The beautiful, clean rose, the flower, no torns and greenery either not the rubbery note of roseoil, the seamless blend of jasmine and other classic notes as orange flowers, narcissus, lily of the vally and orris. The notes are so masterfully blended and therefore the different notes are hard separate, they just  mingles in smooth, creamy accords, fleeting like a heavenly (blue) symphony. 

The patchouli in the base of No 12 is together with rose, orris, mandrain and cardamom the note that, to my nose, stands out the most in the fragrance. The patchouli in No 12 is not used that much in todays perfumery: It's a clean (but not stripped down), cosy, soft like cashmere, sort of dry, almost powdery earthy dark chocolate type, which smothness blends lovely with the notes mentioned and with the ingredient of all real chypres: Oakmoss. The patchouli and oakmoss combo adds a clean dept to No 12.  I've found something close to this particular patchoulinote in  two totally different and more one dimensional interpretations; in  Perris Monte Carlo Essence de Patcholuli and Davidoff Zino Davidoff. None of them as smooth, elegant and creamy as No 12, theese fragrances are more of "one note"  patchouli fragrances. Another fragrance that comes to my mind is the beautiful floral chypre La Perla (the original version from 1987), although No 12 is more contemporary in style.

Picture: No 12 in all sizes
Photo: Puredistance (c)

The impression of No 12 is that of total cleanness, like clean water in a mountian stream. But the water is thick and accompanied by many nuances, for example something like a clean luxury soap even if the texture of No 12 is not soapy. It's a fragrance that surprise, with different wearings, different accords/notes stands out, some wearings I can smell a faint leather note (smooth leather from inside a luxary handbag),iris paired with a clean earthy impression. 

Compared to last years  Rubikona, No 12 is brighter and higher on the fragrance note scale, Rubikona is more muted and dark, like silky velvet, where No 12 is like fluid tick silk in texture. Both are chypres, where No12 is more of an elegant carefree daytime fragrance and Rubikona is more serious, leaning to a evening event, although both could be worn around the clock. The blue No 12 to me is a glimmering faceted, cornflower blue saphire, framed in white gold, whereas Puredistance Gold which I associated with a saphire, is a darker, cabochon cut dark saphire framed in muted gold. 

Picture: Queen Maxima of the Netherlands,
in the Mellorio Sahppire Tiara
Photo from: Pinterest photographer unknown/
Royal roaster tumbler dot com (c) 

If Rubikona evoked the vision of  the "fit and proper" powerwomen, the EU President Ursula van der Leyen, No 12 is the perfume of a Queen. The queen I come to think of is, appropriately Queen Maxima of the Netherlands. As it seems from what is written in the press, a warm, colourful and sparkling personality sometimes appearing in an elegant, bohemian chic style. The color of No 12 is regal blue, like the saphires in Maxima's imposing tiara.

Although Rubikona and No 12 are in the same family, very elegant well constructed and wearable modern chypres, I could not choose a favourite. Both are equally good and complements each other, one have to have both for variation. The overall impression of No 12 is like a sunny day, with blue sky, full of joy and complete effortless.  The parfum is timeless and proper both for casual chic and formal events. Regardless of the occasion No 12 really lifts the spirits and is a ride in true comfort. 

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Cardamom, Coriander, Ylang Ylang, Narcissus Absolute, Jasmin Absolute, Rose, Geranium, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom, Osmanthus Absolute, Orris Butter, Heliotrope, Hedione, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Oak Moss, Tonka, Ambrette, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Musk

Robert Piguet - Bois Bleu

Picture: Bois Bleu in its stylish, classical
Robert Piguet bottle 

Bois Bleu is created by the (almost) in house perfumer Aurlien Guichard for Robert Piguet and is the latest addition (spring 2013) to the Nouvelle Collection from 2012. Bois Bleu is classified as an unisex woody aromatic fragrance.

Bois Bleu starts with a intriguing blend of citrus and bergamot. The accord is somehow muted, it's note the sparkling, sunny a bit bitter uplifting accord which has evaporated when the topnotes are gone, but a sort of massive, much deeper accord which in texture and apperance, even if not so close in the citric smell, reminds me of the start of Mona di Orios Lux (swe) but more masculine. My first impression is that, just as with the aromatic NoteS of the Nouvelle Collection, Bois Bleu leans to the masculine side on the unisexscale.
But as always with Piguet fragrances, many things are going on and suddenly Bois Bleu becomes less aromatic and more spicy as a delicious note of nutmeg appears and take the centerstage still with the muted citric notes accompanying. The nutmeg is balancing a dry, non-sweet violet which is almost woody in character, Threre is nothing of the sweet, candy like violet or the more green violet with violetleaves which are the most common interpretations. The citric,violet,nutmeg trio is underscored with a wellbalanced woody base of vetiver, sandalwood and cedar where I think the warm and slight sweet character of sandalwood comes very well to its right. Bois Noir is subtle and engage the wearer during the whole dry down. The overall impression remains, despite the warmer, spicier part in the middle, that Bois Bleu is a more masculine in character but women searching for an aromatic fragrance should not hesitate to try it.

Trying Bois Bleu on Mr Parfumista the fragrance appears in a different way. The separate notes are much more distinct and the whole fragrance is brighter and somehow fresher. There is something in the mix and in the general impression of Bois Bleu there that on Mr Parfumista smells like a 2010s styled, refined and dimmed version of the wonderful Zino Davidoff from the 80s but without the distinct patchouli of the latter.
   
Just as its companions in the Nouvelle Collection, Bois Bleu is a fragrance of its own even if there is something familiar in the overall aura and some traces in common with two other Nouvelles: The nutmeg from Casbah and the sandalwood from Bois Noir. Bois Bleu is more discrete than the powerful Bois Noir, the sillage is medium but the longevity is very good, traces are still there after 24 h.

Rating: 5 (on Mr Parfumista) 4 (on me)

Notes: Bergamot, citruses, nutmeg, violet, sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver