Annick Goutal - Les Absolus Ambre Sauvage

Picture: Painting of a family game of checkers
("jeu des dames"), ca 1803
Painting by Louis-Léopold Boilly (1761-1845)

Ambre Sauvage is featuring another staple in perfumery: Amber. Ambre Sauvage is created by Camille Goutal and perfumer Isabelle Doyen.

Ambre Sauvage starts with a soft and smooth amber note, the amber is nor herbal, nor dry gunpowdery, nor candy sweet, just light, refined like a mediumbrown colored silkveil fluttering in the wind. There are no sharp, rough edges of the resins in Ambre Sauvage, it's a balsamic interpretation mixed with the glazed vanilla of Vanille Charnelle. For a short while I can also feel a light, almost salty vibe. As Ambre Sauvage dries down an offsetting slight cold accord with a just detectable iris/lavender appears, balancing the warmth of the amber. A refined, dry and dark patchouli creates a beautiful dept to the perfume. Ambre Sauvage is very well balanced and blended in a way which makes it hard to distinguies the different ingredients, they are just swirling in a comforting, quality flow. Compared to the earlier Annick Goutal amber, Ambre Fetiche, Ambre Sauvage is quiet and soft, Ambre Fetiche is relatively loud and powerful compared to Ambre Sauvage and Ambre Fetiche contains a  considerable amount of incense.

Picture: Ambre Sauvage
Photo: PR Annick Goutal (c)

Ambre Sauvage is a calming fragrance, a fragrance which feels classic in style and apperance. When wearing it I can imagine ladies from the Empire wafting this type of fragrance when moving in their cashmere stoles. Ambre Sauvage is maybe not the right name to this gentle and refined amber as it is not wild at all, on the contrary it's very polished, soft and elegant.

Ambre Sauvage is an excellent comfort fragrance for autumn and winter. It's softspoken and could not offend anyone. Sillage is close and longevity for more than a day. Unisex but leaning to the feminine side.

Even if not smelling the same I think those who likes ambers as the more boozy Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe, the more woody-spicy Téo Cabanel Barkhane and the a tad sweeter Rania J. Ambre Loup will also appreciate Ambre Sauvage.

Rating: 5

Notes: Patchouli, amber; pink pepper, lavender, iris, vanilla 

Fragrances for Christmas 2015 2(2) - Nichefragrances

In the second post about fragrances which could attract especially in Christmastime some appropriate gems from the niche segment will be commented.

Picture: Un Crime Exotique
Photo: PR Parfumerie Générale (c)

Un Crime Exotique (Parfumerie Générale): This is similar to the traditional sweet mulled wine called Glögg which swedes are drinking the in Advent and during the Christmas holiday. Un Crime Exotique is not as sweet as Glögg, the fragrance smells like Glögg mixed with an refreshing the like for example Oolong.

Picture: Loretta
Photo: PR Tableau de Parfums (c)

Loretta (Tableau de Parfums): A dark fruity, spicy, slight dirty, animalic tuberose which compared to for example Marc Jacobs Decadence really is decadent. A fragrance in the classic dark, style of Rochas Femme. One of Andy Tauers best fragrances IMO.

Picture: Mon Numero 10
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

Mon Numero 10 (L'Artisan Parfumeur): This one is a sort of merged fragrance with traces from Christmas appropriate classics as Fendi (original), Coco (Chanel) and also Un Crime Exotique (above) + some incense. Embracing and comforting to wear in cold and grey weather.

Picture: M.O.U.S.S.E
Photo: PR Oliver & Co (c)

M.O.U.S.S.E (Oliver & Co): This is the most similar fragrance to mimic real clove that I've tested so far. A sort of fresh, airy but in the same time intense, almost cold, spicy fragrance. Some incense also seems to be involved in a supporting role.

Picture: Wazamba (new bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Wazamba (Parfum d'Empire): A warm, a bit sweet and spicy incense, not the traditional cold, midnight mass churchy type as Comme des Garcons Avignon which is also a beautiful fragrance suitable for Christmas.

Olivier Durbano - Prométhée

Picture: The legend of Prométhée
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Prométhée is the 2014 addition to the Olivier Durbano collection. With Prométhée Olivier, according to what is written around the background to the fragrace, want to enter a new path for his fragrances. Many of the earlier ones are focused around different incense themes, with Prométhée he wants to do something new.

Prométhée starts with a masculine colognenote dominated by the characteristic citrus note of a classical cologne. This stage lasts only for a short while, soon step by step peppery, herbal and soft spicy notes appears. Then a slight animalic note appears, giving the herbal notes a rounder and softer shape. In this stage, Prométhée reminds me of Miller Harris L'Air de Rien  but less sweet and musky than the latter.
This stage is followed by a quirky passage that lasts for a while. A metallic note appears and something starts to grow until it smells almost like fresh blood. This is a bit upsetting and disturbing for ones peace of mind but it doesn't smells bad at all. I get a similar, but lighter painted, metallic-bloody experience in Parfumerie Générale Harmatan Noir. As the metallic-bloody accord steps back,  Prométhée gets spicier and darker, with resins smoothening the dominating herbal theme. An effect that reminds me of the smell of mulled wine appears and Prométhée is from now a fragrance that triggers a contemplating mood. Later a tart and dry earthy-vegetal accord appears, reminding me of the smell of crispy autumn leaves on the frosty ground a cold late autumnday. There is also a hint of pink pepper present but it doesn't dominate, just adds some sparkle. Vetiver also brighten the base with a woody, green slight citric element. The herbal aspect of Prométhée reminds me of Parfum d'Empire Corsica Furiosa even if that one evokes the image of a hot mediterrian summerday with burned herbal/grassy notes but also greener, lighter, playing in the higher octaves of the notescale. 

Picture: Prométhée
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Present over the dry down from the middle to the end of Prométhée there is a cold, rounded accord whith a mineral wibe, I think it's a interpretation of myrrh. This cold stone accord are present in many of the earlier Durbanos and it has a similar apperance as in Prométhée in one of my favorites from the house, Lapis Philosophorum. To me Prométhée is not a depature from the Olivier Durbano style, it's still the same but this time without a dominating incense. Promethèe is a difficult and demanding fragrance which highlights different aspects in different wearings. Therefore it's intriguing and challenging to wear in the same way as Lapis Philosophorum.

Promethée to me is the perfect autumn fragrance, it captures the mood and colors of late autumn. It could be worn both for work and casual but one have to be careful when applying, this is strong stuff. Sillage is medium and longevity for more than a day. It's a unisexfragrance leaning slight to the masculine side.

Rating: 4

Notes: Fennel, pink pepper, nutmeg, myrtle, labdanum, lily, narcissus, sage, styrax, incense, ambergris, cedar, musk, vetiver

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to try 

Parfum d'Empire - Osmanthus Interdite

Picture: The northwest corner of the Forbidden City, Beijing, China
Photo: Attribution Charlie Fong, (cc), some rights reserved,
 Wikimedia.com

Osmanthus Interdite by Parfum d'Empire is a fragrance inspirerd from the scents and overall impressions from the imperial gardens in the Forbidden City in Beijing. Like all the high quality Parfum d'Empire fragrances, Osmanthus Interdite is created by the Parfum d'Empire founder,  IPSICA perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. The review is made from a sample from the latest edition of Osmanthus Intedite, the version in the new bottledesign.

Osmanthus Interdite is fresh, floral, dry chalky fruity matched with light, white tea notes. There is also some deep, almost dark passages, as shadows from the bushes besids the ponds a sunny afternoon in the palace garden. Smooth and very well balanced accents of the osmanthus flower like soft deep apricot, velvety leather as suede and dry fresh haynotes create a sofisticated, pleasant aura around the wearer. The tea notes are smooth without any harsh edges. In the base of Osmanthus Interdite, a pleasant chalky note steps forward, adding a deeper layer to the fragrance. In texture Osmanthus Interdite reminds me of a feather light, almost transparant cashmere shawl worn over an elegant, white, casual chic outfit. Some how Osmanthus Interdite has a calming and meditative effect, it's a relaxing fragrance to wear. Fragrances with the same relaxing and elegant, white aura that comes to my mind (even if not smelling the same) when wearing Osmanthus Interdite is By Kilian Water Calligraphy, Imperial Tea and Bamboo Harmony as also Dior Homme Cologne 2013 version.

Picture: Osmanthus Interdite, new bottle
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Osmanthus Interdite is quite linear in constuction, with its accords flowing back and forth during the dry down of the fragrance. It's discrete with a close sillage, with good longevity, about a day. It's the perfect office fragrance for spring, summer, early autumn but could be worn in any season. As I remember the previous version in the old bottle, I can't detect any differences, probably there is no reformulation in connection with the switch in bottledesign.

Osmanthus Interdite is the osmanthus fragrance that I've experienced so far and I also think it's one of the best tea fragrances on the market.

Rating: 5

Notes: Osmanthus, green tea, apricot, jasmin, rose, fruit, musk, suede

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Parfum d' Empire - quick reviews

Recently, I (and Mr Parfumista) tested some almost forgotten samples from the wellcrafted Parfum d'Empire line, all the samples is from the "old" line ie before the change in bottledesign.
Below some quick impressions:

Picture: Yuzu Fou (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Yuzu Fou: Citiric, kumquat and bitter orange notes contrasted with different bright, green notes such as bamboo and verbena. Creates a sunny and warm impression and a touch of something fizzy spicy as ginger. Goes much better with Mr Parfumistas skinchemistry than mine.

Picture: Osmanthus Interdite (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Osmanthus Interdite: This osmanthus is just lovely, it reminds me of another light and tender favorite but featuring another flower, ByKilian Imperial Tea.

Picture: Equistrius (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Equistrius: Strangely enough this is said to be an iris as it smells close to Antonio Visconti Rose Savage but on the other hand  neither the iris in E or the rose in RS are particularly clear or dominant, they are just parts of two elegant and well crafted fragrances.

Picture: Wazamba (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Wazamba: A gentle and unusually warm incensefragrance with some slight sweet, spicy notes. It is said to be inspired of Africa and I could agree as it has that warm and different twist compared to  the  austere styled cold european incenses. Great longevity.

Picture: Fougere Bengale (old bottle)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Fougere Bengale: One of the best blond tobacco scents out there, smells pure and authentic as freshly harvested tobaccoleaves. A winner for Mr Parfumista.

Fragrance & Art carries the full line and have some bottles left of some of the Pd'E fragrances in the old styled bottles to the old considerably lower price.

Parfum d'Empire - Cuir Ottoman (new & old version)

Picture: Sultan Selim III holding an audience in
front of the Gate of Felicity.
 Oil on canvas, Topkapı Sarayı Müzesi, Istanbul,
Wikipedia commons

Cuir Ottoman is created by ISIPCA perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato for his own perfumehouse, Parfum d'Empire. Parfum d'Empire is a house that produces first class perfumes to decent prices (to be niche) also after the re-packing, and it also seems to, slight revison of the earlier fragrances. When it comes to Cuir Ottoman, revision is definitly the case at least to my nose when comparing the first version launched in 2006 with the new one.

Picture: Cuir Ottoman (old)
Photo: PR Parfum d'Empire (c)

Cuir Ottoman starts leathery-floral, the newer one airier and with more flowers than the older one. After a while the old one becomes a bit smokey, supported by a rubbery note, slight similar to the rubber in Bulgari Black. The rubbernote is intricate and surpringly shifts between the rubber and a note similar to something to a flowery bubblegumnote. When the new version developes, the higher octaves of the scentscale and the more flowery impression remains. Instead of the rubbery note in the old version, I smell a note close to gunpowder balancing the flowerinfused leather. The new version is a tad more feminin in style, more elegant than the more masculine tougher and rougher old version, somewhat like the elegant Chanel Cuir de Russie compared to the masculine Knize Ten even if not smelling the same. As Cuir Ottoman dries down in the still leathery basenotes, I find new and old version becoming more alike than in the earlier stages, even if the old version is a tad more spicy and deeper.

Cuir Ottoman is a very good leather fragrance in the basic classic style that every fragrance wardrobe needs. Not demanding or or particularly innovative but a well made and well balanced leather in a timeless style. When writing this review, a grey autumn Sunday, I slightly prefer the old version, which with its a bit darker facetts is suitable for autumn and winter. But if the testing was performed in spring/summer I maybe would prefer the new version.

Picture: Cuir Ottoman (new)
Photo: PR Parfume d'Empire (c)

Cuir Ottoman is appropriate for most occasions (apart from working out) and seasons (though not in the hottest summer). Longevity is good, for more than a day, and sillage is somewhere between close to medium. To conclude, Cuir Ottoman is definitely a leather to consider when adding a classic "Cuir" to ones wardrobe.

Rating. 5

Notes: Iris, jasmine, leather, vanilla, tonka bean, incense

Thanks to Fragrance & Art  for a sample of the new version

Parfum d'Empire - Corsica Furiosa

Picture: Emperor Napoleon I (1769-1821),
another corsican furiosa.
Painting by  Paul Delaroche (1797-1856)

The latest addition to the highquality house Parfum d'Empire, Corsica Furiosa is a tribute to the ISCPA-trained perfumer and owner of the house Marie-Antoine Corticchiato native island Corsica. Corisca Furiosa, which features the mediterrian shrub lentisque, is an aromatic-green fragrance in its very own style , one hand dry, herbal, on the other green, leafy, crisp.

Corsica Furiosa starts with an accord which smells of dried herbs and gras over the sunbaked, hot, earth of a mountained, mediterrian island. There is also a note of smoke, as the smoke from a fire far away. A light spicy limenote is also present and is recognizable also in later stages of the fragrance. After a while a natural haynote appears and further in the dry down an almost animalic note, a pleasant furnote, appears. This stage reminds me of something in Musc Tonkin but softer and tuned down. In the basenotes a note clos to crisp, bulbflower leaves appears, probably the tomatoleaves but different handeled than in typical tomatoleave fragrances as Sisley Eau de Campagne and Joop! What about Adam. In this stage a light flowery element which reminds me of daffodil, enlighten this, taken as a whole, austere composition. This flowery note, the green note, the fur note and some of the hay with a slight herbal touch is what remains in the basenotes and lasts until the fragrance has dried down after 8-10 hours. There is also an element in Corsica Furiosa which reminds me of an accord in the base of Olivier Durbano Lapis Philosophorum.

Corsica Furiosa is gentle and close to the skin, it's light, almost as a cologne and could be re-applied during the day without any risk for overdoing it. It's a very casual fragrance but would also perform well in the workplace, especially in the scentfobic office. Corsica Furiosa is most intriguing in its first part, than its plesant and quite ok but with out the sensation of the first one third.

To me Corsica Furiosa is truly unisex but to be honest I think it wears better on me than on Mr Parfumista who tried it at first as I thought it would be more herbal bitter and masculine in style. Other fragrances which comes to my mind when testing Corsica Furiosa is Guerlain Cologne 68 which have some of the burnt, herbal mediterrian notes but is more flowery and sweet. The crispy bulbflower leaf is present in for example Pierre Balmain Vent Vert (older formula) and Oriza L .Legrand Deja le Printemps.

Rating: 4

Notes: Lentisque, hay, grass, lime, honey, moss, labdanum, mint, tomatoleaves, pepper

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test.

Olivier Durbano - Pink Quartz

Picture: An elephant carved in rose quartz
Wikimedia commons

Pink Quartz from Olivier Durbano Parfums de Pierre Poemes dedicated to semiprecious stones starts pink/grey velvety rosy paired with a sort of dry, opaque stoney note. In the topnotes, Pink Quartz is uplifting and a bit sparkling and the rose is very natural smelling and true to the real rose scent. When the fragrance dries down, a small trace of incense, spice, balsamic and musky notes deepens and darkens the unconventional rose/stone combo. This combo is the core of the fragrance and apperant in all stages of the dry down. In the basenotes there is also a tangy, slight fizzy note which I so appreciate in rosefragrances and which gives them a touch of chypre. There is also a subtle smoky nuance in the base and a very light sweetness from the resins. If Pink Quartz had a color it's definitly the almost opaque, pale pink/grey of the pink quartz mineral. If it was a fabric, it would be a pale, powdery, pink quartz colored velvet.

Pink Quartz is very intriguing, probably (as the notelist indicate) all the wellbalanced ingredients creates this impression. Pink Quartz is a true unisexfragrance and IMO it lending to the masculine side, here is a rose (without oud) for men. Despite this, it's pleasant also for a woman to wear, an  exception when it comes to pink roses as it is not as sweet as most pink fragrances.. Sillage is close and longevity for 12h+, an exellent choice for the early spring.

Picture: The tempting Pink Quartz
Photo: PR Olivier Durbano (c)

Pink Quartz could be appreciated by those who likes pink roses with some deept and without the conventional sweetness fragrances such as Parfum d'Empire Eau Suave even if that one is a tad fruity. To me pink Quartz is sort of the masculine counterpart of Eau Suave. Just as the latter (on of my alltime favorite pink roses) Pink Quartz is a little gem.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, pink grapefruit, olibanum, saffron, ginger; palmarosa, damask rose, palisander rosewood, rose, amber, patchouli, myrrh, benzoin, white musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample