Ramon Monegal - Moonbloom

Picture: Moonflower before opening for the nightblooming
Photo: The Moonlight garden circle com (c)

Moonbloom  is created by spansh perfumer Ramon Monegal. Moonbloom is another Ramon Monegal exclusive for Bloomingdales in Dubai, see also Dubai Next To Me  for Bloomingdales in Dubai.

Moonbloom starts starts with sweet, creamy, white flowers where tuberose supported by orangeblossom dominates in a delicate mix,I don't know if there is any moonbloom within as I don't know how it's smelling. The opeing reminds me slightly of the old gem Versace Blonde, but more bright, clean and innocent. Moonbloom is quite linear in its construction and when Moonbloom has settled, it smells of sweet, honeyed white flowers inteacting with an light ambery smooth woody base during rest of its lifespan. The ambery, flowery aura of the fragrance, reminds me of the similar, but more classic in style, impression of Maison Nicolas de Barry Madame de Pompadour. Some darker passages are swirling up to the surface in the second part of the dry down, this passages remins me of the special almost inky rose, spieces, sandalwoody combination in Vero Profumos beautiful Rozy Edp. Another fragrance that comes to my mind is Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet but without the pleasant slight decaying greenery accord of the latter

To summon up Moonbloom, it's not an original fragrance as there are many in the same thick, almost tropical white flower style.The archetype for this style is to me a fragrance as Annick Goutal Songes even if there of course where other before that one in this group. On the other hand Moonbloom is very beautiful  and very pleasant to wear, smells wonderful. Even the picky Mr Parfumista commented in a very postive way on Moonbloom, and thats not happen very often when I'm testing new fragrances.

Moonbloom is an easy to wear fragrance, perfect for most occasions and is the type of fragrance which blooms and unfolds as best a very warm summerday. Longevity is for a day when tested under spring conditions ca 10+ C, silage is medium.

Rating: 5

Notes: Havn't found any notepyramid but I guess tubereuse, orangeblossom, rose, sandalwood, amber, vanilla. musk  are involved

Maison Nicolas de Barry - L'impératrice Sissi

Picture: Emperess Elisabet of Austria (1837-1898)
Painting by Amanda Bergstedt (1841-1918)
Wikimedia commons

L'impératrice Sissi from the historic line of Maison Nicolas de Barry is inspired of the Empress of  Austria-Hugary the beautiful  redhead Elisabeth of Bavaria. L'impératrice Sissi is create by Nicolas de Barry and Eddie Blanchet.

L'impératrice Sissi starts sparkling, flowery where natural smelling violets blended with iris, the flowery irisinterpretation are featured. Later on the fragrance goes more cosmetic, like the smell of lipstick, a bit putty- powdery, and this impression deepens as the dry down goes further on. The base is slight vanillic, musky powdery in a  pleasant way.

L'impératrice Sissi is a well made, not candy sweet pastille smelling violet, the flowery iris blances the violet in a perfect harmony. Simple in notes but well balanced and with good ingredients, L'impératrice Sissi is pleasant to wear year around, this is not the typical transaprent spring violet. It's a comforting but in the same time casual chic fragrance, wearable in most occasions.

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose and L'Artisan Drole de Rose are fragrances in the same vein as L'impératrice Sissi in its later stages. The flowery opening is more in the style of Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile and Le Galion Iris.

I don't konw why  Elisabeth inspired to a violet fragrance, maybe because she liked to wandering in the nature or simply because violets where popular in the romantic era in the 19th century.

Rating:4
Rating: 5 (November 2016)

Re-testing Sissi in November 2016 - its a really great fragance, I like it even better now, the natural vanilla together with an almost herbal facet shines through in a much better way this time. 

Notes: Bergamot, violet, iris, vanilla

Thanks to Fragrance and Art for the sample to try

Maison Nicolas de Barry - Louis XV

Picture: Louis XV  (1710-1774)
Painting from 1730
  by Hyacinthe Riguad (1679-1743)
Wikipedia commons

Louis XV is the masculine counterpart to Madame de Pompadour also from Maison Nicolas de Barry reviewed earlier this week. Louis XV is created by Nicolas de Barry and Eddie Blanchet and part to the line inspired of historic royalties.

Louis XV starts with a sunny blast of sweet honeyed orangeblossom contrasted with the green and a tad bitter facetts of neroli. The opening is golden, as the rays of the sunset. As the fragrance developes, a classic bouquet of  flowers emerges and acts as a solid backgrund to the orange maintheme. The texture of the fragrance is as a smooth, silky golden velvet, suitable for a royal robe, worthy Louis XV himself. From the bouquet there are certain crispy green notes fleeting around in the blend, more or less noticeable as the flowery theme varies. Overall the composition has a citric tingeThe base is warm ambery, slight musky with just a small touch of soap. Louis XV is far from as ambery as Madame de Pompadour, Louis XV is a varitaion of the usual orange-/neroli theme and a much more straight forward white floral.

Louis XV is a very good orangeblossom interpretation, there is no harsh edges or artificial feeling. It's round and warm, very flowery, without the cologne texture common among many orangeblossom fragrances and also not as soapy as many of them. Louis XV to me is unisex and could be worn in most ordianry occasions, this is a fragrancs that adds everyday comfort and casual elegance. It also draws compliments. The sillage of Louis XV is medium and longevity not as great as the Madame P, Louis on my skin lasts for a day reapplied. This is strange as Annick Goutal Les Colognes Nèroli lasts for about a day without reapplication.

Picture: Louis XV
Photo: PR Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

Fragrances that Louis XV reminds me of are Historiae Orangerie du Roy which is fresher and more colognestyled, Annick Goutal Neroli, which is thinner and less flowery, as well as it has some similarties with the more masculine, woody neroli Eau de Cardinal also from Maison Nicolas de Barry.

Rating: 4

Notes: Neroli, orange, roses, jasmine, violet, gardenia, hyacinth, daffodil, tubereuse, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art  for the sample to test

Maison Nicolas de Barry - Madame de Pompadour

Picture: Madame de Pompadour (1721-1764)
portrayed as a turkish lady, 1747
Painting  by Charles André van Loo (1705-1765)

Madame de Pompadour is a creation from Maison Nicolas de Barry, a house which creates fragrances inspired from the history. The fragrances is created by Nicolas de Barry and Eddie Blanchet.

Madame de Pompadour starts with a burst of florals under command of the regal iris, the flowery version, not the carrot root note. Soon the rest of the boquet takes over, different flowers are fleeting in and out from the centerplace. On my skin the bulbflowers daffodil and hyacinth are particularly present, supported by a beautiful tuberose. The amber blends very well with the flowers and creates a special glow to the perfume. Also the amber and iris particulary seems to connect during the dry down, plush, velvety aura. The base are ambery-musky with the flowers still very clear present and a touch of a contrasting slight earthy/dirty smell. There is also a touch of the special textile band-aid note present in vintage Musst de Cartier Edt.

Summarized: Madame de Pompadour is a beautiful floral-oriental bouquet, interacting with a glowing, ambery base creating a warm, rounded boquet. Even if classic in structure and ingredients Madame de Pompadour doesn't smell dated neither dense or loud. One could imagine that a fragrance inspired by Madame de Pompadour would be lighter, pink much more fluffy, powdery and painted in lighter pastel colors as fashionable in the Rococoera. But the reality beyond the pastels was, as we all know, strong odeurs, attempted to be hidden by perfumes. In the perfume there is a hint of a dirty note in the base, so subtle on almost not recoginze it at first. It's not at all like in the barnyardnotes fragrances.

Picture: The Mme de Pompadour flacon
Photo: PR Maison Nicolas de Barry 

Madame de Pompadour is suitable for all seasons but just for evening in the summer. It's very elegant and maybe too much for most offiicies even if a pleasure to smell and wear. Sillage is medium and longevity for at least a day.

Wearing Madame de Pompadour I somehow get to think of (even if not smelling the same) classic Creed flower boquets as Irisia, Fantasia de Fleurs and Tubereuse Indiana. Madame de Pompadour is for everyone who enjoy a wellmade, grand, timeless floral boquet.

Rating: 5

Notes: Iris, roses, jasmine, gardenia, violets, hyacinth, daffodil, tubereuse, amber

Thanks for Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Maison Nicolas de Barry - Casanova

Picture: Portrait  of Giacomo Casanova (1725-1798)
Drawing by Fransesco Giuseppe Casanova (1727-1802)
Wikimedia commons

Casanova is a sparkling Edt from french nichehouse Maison Nicolas de Barry. The fragrance is composed by the founder of the house himself, Nicolas de Barry.

Casanova starts green, enlighted by citirc notes. There is also a light herbal, almost non-sweet minty touch in the topnotes. Soon a very beautiful, full, not diluted, jasmine appears. It's a jasmine somewhere between the jasmine in Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmine (swe) but without the dirty, horsey nuances and the flowery clean jasmine of for example By Kilian Love and Tears (swe). Some of the greenery of the jasmin seems also to be destilated in Casanova and the jasminenote is seconded by a smooth orangenote which adds a hint of fruit to the composition. The basenotes are light woody and warm with a light amberglow.

Casanova is for jasmine what Eau de Cardinal (reviewed last week) is for orangeblossom, a natural smelling, without any harsh chemical notes and no artificial smelling sweetness. Not anything new, but an easy to wear fragrance. The connection to Casanova is ambiguous, the perfume is nice smelling and in that part seducitive but when it comes to the character Casanova, I think the dirty MPG Jasmine would be a better choice.

Picture: Casanova
Photo: PR Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

The longevity on skin is about the same, about a day, as for Eau de Cardinal even if the latter is classified as a cologne, but on the other hand I applicated more of Eau Cardinal when I tested it so maybe the longevity is better for Casanova. Casanova is very jobfriendly, couldn't offend anyone with its optimistic spirit and has close silage. A fragrance especially for spring and summer but suits also during the winter when longing for the warm season.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, orange, jasmine, sandalwood, amber

Maison Nicolas de Barry - Eau du Cardinal

Picture: Cardinal de Richelieu (1585-1642)
Painting by Philippe de Champaigne (1602-1674),
Wikimedia commons

Eau du Cardinal is a creation based on neroli from the house Nicolas de Barry. Nicolas has composed the fragrance and according to productinformation "Nicolas de Barry became perfumer of the Church Princes and wanted to recreate a fresh and delicate Eau de Cologne, paying tribute to the great Cardinals of France." .

Eau du Cardinal starts smooth citrusy, with the neroli and probably also orangeblossom, even if not mentioned in the notelist. A smooth and not harsh at all woody accord appears after a while to balance the citric-flowery notes, which also feels very natural, and it add a ticker texture almot dry to the fragrance, quite different to the usual, fleeting colognes.The sandalwood-neroli combinaton is very pleasant and there is also something almost soapy (probably musk) to Eau du Cardinal despite it never reach into the soapy territory, just touches it. The frankincense in the basenotes doesn't stand out as a singular note, it's so well blended with the woods.

Picture: Eau du Cardinal
Photo: Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

Eau du Cardinal is a minimalist, unisexfragrance, composed of fine ingredients. It lasts very well to be a Cologne, it is also mentioned as an Edt and I think thats the correct concentration even if one has to applicate it liberally. As it's denser and ticker in texture than a real cologne Eau du Cardinal is suitable to wear year around for daytime. It adds sun an warmth a cold, grey winterday and don't disappears too soon as most colognes during the summerheat.

When wearing Eau du Cardinal I'm reminded of Parfums MDCI Nuit de Andalouse and there is also something from Annick Goutal Néroli. Eau du Cardinal is well worth trying for those who likes well made orangeblossom/neroli dominated fragrances as for example L'Artisan Seville à l'Aube and Oscar de la Renta Granada.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, neroli, teakwood, sandalwood, frankincense

Maison Nicolas de Barry - Eau de Vizir

Picture: Die Kinder des Vicomte d'Andrezel,
 französischer Botschafter an der Hohen Pforte,
werden dem Großwesir Ibrahim Pasha vorgestellt, 10. Oktober 1724
Oil on canvas by Jean Baptiste Vanmour (1671-1737)
Wikimedia commons

Eau de Vizir is a masculine, very original creation from the house Nicolas de Barry who has composed the fragrance, maybe in collaboration with Eddy Blanchet as some of the other fragrances.

Eau de Vizir starts with an aromatic, citric-herbal blast, it's strong and cold in apperance. Early a very sort of clean, dry, smoky vetivernote appears and it is present in full or as whispers during the rest of the fragrance. As it continues, herbs, especially basil, green notes and fresh bitter notes appears, the fennel is sort of natural fresh and uplifting. In texture and impression Eau de Vizir is cold as original Marni, but without the rosy elements. There is also a slight mentholic touch in some stages and somehow By Kilian Smoke for the Soul comes to my mind as also the classic Azzaro Acteur with its moisty forest floor accords. The aromatic-herbal accords are founded in a musky, woody accord in which the smoky vetiver also are clearly present, a base which emphasizes the fresh coolness of the scent.

Picture: Eau de Vizir
Photo: PR Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

Eau de Vizir is a good fragrance for regular daytime wearing. It's definitly masculine, suitable year around and would be perfect in early spring with the slight chilly air and wet soil. The longevity is very good, a little goes for about a day. Maybe Eau de Vizir is another addition to the reported upcoming, mostly non-sweet, woody-tarry-aromatic trend.

Rating: 3

Notes: Lemon, bergamot, orange, basil, vetiver, fennel, sandalwood, musk

Maison Nicolas de Barry - L'Eau de Shah Jahan

Picture: Shah Jahan (1592-1666)
Wikimedia commons

Even if it's a true unisex fragrance, it's obvious to me that L'eau de Shah Jahan is cretaed to be the masculine counterpart to the beautiful and bombastic L'eau de Mumtaz i-Mahal which was reviewd earlier in December. Shah Jahan is just as the Mumtaz created by Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet.

L'eau de Shah Jahan also starts with the rubbery rose oil accord as Mumtaz i-Mahal but less dominating and distinct. Soon fruits pickled in a liqueur-brandy like accord appears, the rose steps backwards but is discretly present in the rest of the dry down. The boozy fruits is the distinguishing theme when Shah Jahan is compared with Mumtaz i-Mahal, both has the same characteristic sandalwood, oud and what I think is the note of nagarmotha as basenotes and "frame". And of course the fragrances should complement each other very close, just as Shah and his favorite wife Mumtaz once did. To me L'eau de Shah Jahan is a true oriental version, at least as I, from my limited experience with the Arabian Oud perfumed oils, imagine true orientals, of the western woody oriental Serge Lutens Boxeuses, which compared with Shah Jahan of course seems almost anorectic, but the pickled fruits and the boozy notes is a common theme. Another western styled woody oriental that comes to my mind when testing Shah Jahan is Parfums Delrae Bois de Paradis.

Picture: The sofisticated bottle of L'Eau de  Shah Jahan
Photo: PR Maison Nicolas de Barry (c)

Shah Jahan has a distinct silage even if not as grand as the rosy Mumtaz i-Mahal. Longevity is just as the latter about 24h and Shah Jahan is also best for festive occasions or in very small doses, also for cold and grey winter days. This is not the fragrance for the workplace with the least tendency to scentophobia.

Rating: 4
This as I prefer the roses of the Mumtaz this one i 5 rated and Shah Jahan 4, but if I had preferred fruits better the rating would be reversed as the fragrances are so similar

Notes: Rose, sandalwood, oud

 As mentioned above I also recognize booze, fruits and nagarmotha


Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to try

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Maison Nicolas de Barry - L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal

Picture: Empress consort Mumtaz Mahal (1593-1631)
Mughal painting from 17th or 18th Century
Wikimedia commons

L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal is a deep, oriental-floral fragrance  created of  Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet for the perfumehouse of the former, Maison Nicolas de Barry which creates perfumes inspired from the history. Nicolas de Barry has also created the historic inspired line Les Parfums Historiques for Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier George Sand and La Reine Margot, which both also are released in the Maison Nicolas de Barry - line. Later i.e next year I'm planning to review those  (thanks to samples from Fragrance & Art) and compare to the MPG issues.

L`eau de Mumtaz-i Mahal, in the following LMM, is of course dedicated to the cause of the construction of  Tai Mahal - the beloved third wife (the favorite)  of indian ruler Shah Jahan,  Mumtaz Mahal.

LMM, starts with an accord of wonderful, rubbery, roseoil with some light green elements glimpsing through. This is the rubbery rose that is also present in Annick Goutal Rose Splendide but much more rich and dense in LMM and with less of the tart greenery of the Goutal. The rubbery rose is also present in Montale Tai'f Roses but less sweet and sharper. In the Montale I imagine the rose as medium red, in texture as a stiff silk fabric as in a robe form the 14-15th century, in LMM it's medium pink with a silk, velvet finish. As LMM developes a pleasant boozy element appears as also an well integrated spicyaccord. The beautiful blend is anchored in a base of smooth sandalwood which has nothing sharp or chemical about it, it smells like a smooth piece of sandalwood, polished with sandpaper.  I also smell a gentle oud and a note I think is nagarmotha from the base.

LMM has a tickness and dept which are rare in western perfumery today, even the most expensive nichefragrances seems thinned and volatile compared with LMM. LMM has similarities in the style and smell with some oils I have tried from Arabian Oud and also with the very good but not often mentioned Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Rose which is sort of a western styled diet variation of LMM. There is also a kinship in texture and expression with Vero Profumo Rozy Voile d'Extrait.

LMM is a fragrance for the colder months of the year but I can imagine it also blooms beautiful in the indian night. Silage is grand when applied but medium when dried down to the basenotes, longevity for 24h. A very special fragrance, strong and intensive, it has to be applied carefully. Great for festive occasions as for example New Years celebration.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, sandalwood (according to the notelist but I smell att least Spices, boozy notes oud and nagarmotha in the blend)