Visar inlägg med etikett Turbulences. Visa alla inlägg
Visar inlägg med etikett Turbulences. Visa alla inlägg

måndag 9 september 2013

Autour d'Parfums - Poudre d'Iris

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Poudre d'Iris is the iris interpretation in the affordable fragranceline from Autour d'Parfums which contains good and priceworthy "down to earth" basic fragrances in the same way as fore example the houses of  Les Nereides and Molinard.

Poudre d'Iris starts like a bit sweeter but in the same time thinner version of the neroli/orangeblossom dominated accord of Prada Infusion d'Iris Edp. After the initial phase, Pd'I becomes sort of wet powdery, like putty in  texture, and a note of almondblossom, with the characteristic (good) smell of the classic swedish paperglue, Carlssons klister, appears. This white glue also has this sort of texture as Pd'I reminds me of. The iris is note the rooty, carrotlike, harsh type, it's velvet flowery, as I image iris would smell if the flower had a scent. In the basenotes Pd'I is almost powdery, edible, gourmand and here it reminds me a bit of Guerlain Tonka Imperiale but softer and less sweet. There is also something with the irismix in Pd'I that reminds me of a quite different fragrance, the classical  80s light spicy floral Turbulences by Revillon

To me Pd'I induces the image of a sheer but in the same time heavy, light purple silkchiffon veil embrodied with gold and amethysts, the exquisite veil of a grand odalisque. Pd'I is very wearable and even if a tad sweeter, just as officefriendly Infusion d'Iris. Longevity is for more than 12h and sillage is close.

Rating: 4

Notes: Neroli, angelica, iris powder, almond blossom, heliotrophe, white musk, almond, sandalwood

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

onsdag 14 mars 2012

Annick Goutal - Nuit Etoilée

Picture: Wildweibchen mit Einhorn,
Kissenplatte, Strassburg, October 1500,
Unknown author, Historisches Museum Basel,
Wikimedia commons

The latest creation from Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilée, created by the "house-nose" Isabel Doyen will be released later this spring. NE will capture the feeling of walking in the wild forest at night, the magical feel, the fresh minty herbs, moss and the whirls of dark, woody notes.

To me Nuit Etoilée doesn't mediate this impressions, on the contrary I get the image of a warm summernight in the asphalt jungle of a big city. NE starts with a citrusy note that for a very short while reminds of the beginning of The Different Companys chilly DeBachmakov. But very soon NE turns to be a warm fragrance, and stays warm during the whole dry down. A slight dusty jasmine note combined with mint comes forward and at this stage NE reminds me of a gentler version of Etat Libre d'Oranges Jasmin et Cigarettes. There is also a plastic note lurking in the background, but the note is not at all disturbing and fits in with the menthol cigarettes. The mint note is not as distinctive and sharp as in the mint-tea blend of Parfumerie Générale Harmatan Noir. In the basenotes a gentle balsamic firnote appears together with a quiet pine. But there is pine trees in urban surroundings, there is not the wooded, green, sharp- and freshness in the pinenotes as in for example Cacharel pour Homme.

When sampling NE it reminds me of another perfume that I can't identify at first. As NE achieved the middle- and basenotes it's all suddenly clear: NE is close to the transparent, light herbal, light spicy, flowery Turbulences by Révillon, early 2000 Edt-formula. The plastic, minty, cigarettenotes are there in both blends but Turbulences is more flowery, spicy as NE is more herbal, woody in character.

Nuit Etoilée is, according to the picture on the samplewrapper, botteld in beautiful, night dark blue bottles. The mens squarish bottle with it's dark label is the most beautiful. But unfortunately the juice (to me) doesn't quite lives up to the beauty of the blue bottles. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the blend but after the releases of the masterpiece Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille and the distinctive, sappy green beauty Ninfeo Mio I have far higher expectations than NE can deliver. Of course I'm also affected by the fact that I perceive Turbulences during almost the whole drydown of NE.

To summarize: NE is a good perfume but it doesn't stand out among the Goutals, but compared to most mainstream releases it definitly does.NE is a very wearable perfume, foremost in spring and summer. It is classified as an unisex fragrance and I think it's the right classificationas it seems to fit both genders equal.

Update June 2012: Nuit Etoilée is one of those fragrances that grows over time, sniffed it now and then during the latest months, I have learnt to appreciate NE much more then before. In particular I'm appreciating the minty-cigarette-smoky-note which resembles the cigarette-smoky note in my favorite Carner Barcelona fragrance D600.

Rating: 3+   Updated rating June 2012: 4+ .Rating July 2012: 5 This one just grows better with time :-)

Notes: Citrus, orange, peppermint, angelica, imortelle, fir balsam, pine, tonka.

Thanks to Parfums Annick Goutal for the sample to review.

måndag 16 april 2007

Dagens doft - Turbulences

Turbulences från den anrika franska päls- och läderfirman Révillon, är en blommig chypre från 1981. Huset Révillon förtjänar en egen liten utvikning. Det startades av bröderna R i Paris under slutet av artonhundratalet. 1903 beslutade man, att för att säkra päls- och lädertillförseln, öppna handelsstationer i norra Qubec följt av övriga norra Canada. Många inuitsamhällen etablerades på platserna för Révillions handelsstationer.
Åter till parfymen: Turbulenses innehåller vid sidan av blommorna också mycket kryddor och en del trä. Fast den är ganska stark och har en stark närvaro, känns den fräsch. Självklart inte fräsch på det där moderna, fruktiga, aquatiska sättet, utan klassiskt, lite torrt, träigt. Doften är också hållbar under dagen, svävar inte bort efter några timmar.
Turbulences inleds med gröna blad, bergamott, peppar och muskot. I mellanregistret ett klassiskt chypreackord: Jasmin, ylang-ylang, ros och tuberose. En fruktighet och kryddighet adderas genom persika och salvia. I basen ekmossa, ambra, ceder- och sandelträ samt vetvier.
Turbulences passar mig ganska bra, den får ingen "tantvarning". Självklart känns den något daterad då den har mycket sjuttiotalschypre i sig och alltså inte påminner om något som skapas idag. Men det är som alltid frågan: vill man lukta som alla andra och garanterat modernt eller vågar man sticka ut och prova de äldre, ofta fint balanserade dofterna. Som tex Turbulences: Trots så många ingredienser så flyter de så fint in i varandra att ingen blir riktigt tydlig i sig utan de bildar en harmoni.