Robert Piguet -Alameda

The Femme fatale spirit of Alameda - Salome
oil on canvas by Franx von Stuck 1906
Wikimedia commons

Alameda by Aurlien Guichard is a strange and intriguing fragrance from one of my favorite houses Robert Piguet. Alameda is classified as a floral chypre but it also has traces of animalic, gourmand and aldehydic accords.

Alameda starts in a classic animalic-floral-chypre way but in a contemporary interpretation of the style of for example Estee Lauder Knowing and Montana Parfum d'Peau. The animalic note is relatively clean, it's somehow like the smell of a new fur. But soon the chypre impression is dimmed with an almost gourmand, dry, light spicy, cookie accord. As the fragrance moves further a light powdery-clean-earthy-rosy almost light aldehydicstyled accord appears and this accord intesifies and different twists appears during the dry down. The earthiness of the orris is without the carrots, it's like this note has been removed.  In the basenotes, Alameda ends up in a beautiful animalic chyprebase similar to how I image Montana Parfum d'Peau or La Perla (classic) would  have smelled if these fragrances were created today.

Picture: Alameda by Robert Piguet
Photo: PR Robert Piguet (c)

Alameda is a fragrance which performs with different twists during different wearings. It's a complicated fragrance which take a wearing or two to really appreciate. Just as I want from my perfumes, Alameda is intriguing, the wearer doesn't know what will happen next in the dry down, this perfum is not about just smelling good, it's also about a challenge. To apply Alameda sparingly is a must, the fragrance is concentrated and could be overwhelming if applying too much, my preferred dose is three squirts. Alameda is classified as unisex, to me it's definitly feminine but could, as complex as it is, probably develope in a quite different way, on a man. Can't convince Mr Parfumista to try as he thinks it's a real Femme fatale fragrance.

Alameda is a rich fragrance with great sillage and longevity for 24h+. It's not the fragrances for the scentfobic office but in a fragrancefriendly surrounding, a light dose could be nice preferably during the dark and cold season. For eveing and festive occasions, Alameda is just amazing.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, rose, lily, orris, patchouli, amber, castoreum

Dagens doft - La Perla

I går trodde jag att jag skulle fortsätta på temat rena, varma blomdofter idag men vad händer. Plötsligt blev jag sugen på en kategori som jag inte kunde tänka mig igår, nämligen chypre. Valet föll på ännu en firmas signaturdoft nämligen La Perla från 1987. Doften är skapad av Pierre Wargnye, som främst gjort herrdofter, bla nu senast YSL:s nya L´Homme.
La Perla är en träigt, blommig, chypre. Blommigheten är något tämjd (kanske PW:s vana att göra herrdofter?). Den känns på något sätt lite mintigt kall när man bär den, dvs inte blommigt varm som tex Lalique i går.  Den är mycket hållbar under dagen och måste appliceras sparsamt. Kyligheten och mintigheten (utan att lukta mint) påminner om känslan jag får av Magie Noire.
I toppnoterna finns bergamott, citron, coriander och kardemumma. I mellanregistret finns honung, viol, ylang-ylang och ros. I basen ekmossa, vetvier, sandelträ, patchoulli och benzoinkåda.
Det var länge sedan jag använde La Perla och hade glömt bort hur fin den är. Det är en doft att använda i situationer där det krävs att man tar plats tex vid förhandlingar.