Jehanne Rigaud - Patchouli Premier

Picture: Tintin
From the album "Tintin au Congo" (1931)
p.55, drawing Hergé (George Remi) (c)
borrowed from Tintin.com

Patchouli Premier from Grasse perfumehouse (and scent supplier) Jehanne Rigaud features, as the name indicates: Patchouli.

When applying Patchouli Premier my first thought is: This is Patchouli Antique from Les Nereides. It's the same rough, dark, dusty old book note as the latter. Now my speculations in earlier posts about a connection between Les Nereides and Jehanne Rigaud fragrances, maybe JR is the producer for both, seems even more possible. When Patchouli Premier (PP) reaches the middlenotes it departs partly form Patchouli Antique (PA). Whereas PA continues in its rough, dusty, slight fuggy, like an attic in an old house accords, interpreted in a positive way, PA smells really intriguing, PP enters another route as it becomes, lighter, brisker, sort of outdoorsy in style. It highlights the herbal and leafy aspects of how I imagine fresh patchouli could smell. When comparing to PA, I'm refering to the old version, I havn't tested the later versions in the new, different styled, bottles.

Picture: Les Nereides Patchouli Antique
old bottle at the top, a newer version below.
Photo: PR Les Nereides (c)

As the middle accord also the rest of PP smells. It's a good classic, basic patchouli of the herbal, not the ambery kind, which doesn't adds anything new to the genre. On the other hand it's a perfect companion when one need something simple, woody, outdoorsy refreshing, both for casual and for work. Patchoulis in this "fresh" style is relaxing to wear during the summer in particular sunny and windy warm days, but not in the worst heat wave. PP as slmost all patchs in this style is perfectly unisex. Silage of PP is close, longevity for at least a day.

Picture: Patchouli Premier
Photo: PR Jehanne Rigaud (c)

As the two earlier reviewed Jehanne Rigauds, Imperial Poudré and Ambre Obscur, Patchouli Premier also could be associated to a "Les aventures de Tintin" character, in this case the protagonist himself: Tintin. A lively, brisk patchuli like PP is perfect for the changeing existence of the character, one day among papers and prints in the newspaper desk, the other in the middle of the jungle.

Those who like simple and genuine patchuli fragrances as for example Etro Patchouly and Molinard Patchouli will probably also apperciate Patchouli Premier.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Patchouli, cedar, myrrh, myrtle, sandalwood, oakmoss, vanilla, musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

Autour du Parfum - Patchouli Tonka

Photo: Patchouli Tonka
Photo: Promotion Autour du Parfum

Autour du Parfum is a fragranceline founded by Eline Pajot who had worked for many years with developement and marketing in the parfume and cosmetic industry. There are four fragrances in her Private Collection, which all seems to searching back to the origin of perfumery, straightforward, wellcrafted singlenotesperfumes.

Patchouli Tonka is such a straightforward patchoulifragrance which creates that genuine impression. Patchouli Tonka starts similar to Les Nereides Patchouli Antique. It's a dark, woody, earthy patchouli, rough and tough (but not as rough as Patchouly Indonesia from Farmacia SS Annunziata dal 1561), not the polite by amber sweetened patchouli. As Patchouli Tonka dries down, the patchouli softens and gets smoother, even if the woody, by this stage, slight earthy, impression remains. Probably there is the soft, sweetness of the tonka and some light almost herbal-minty vanilla in the base that balances the raw, erthy notes to a pleasent, velvety, dark impression.

Patchouli Tonka is a perfect casual fragrance year around and perfect for the late summer/early autumn strolling around searching for mushrooms in the forest. It's also comfortable to wear at work. Sillage is medium and longevity for about a day.

For those who are searching for a straightforward patchoulifragrance in the woody, almost herbal. not ambery, end of the spectra like Molinard Patchouli and Etro Patchouly, Patchouli Tonka is a very good and also quite affordable choice SEK 370 (ca USD 58 and EUR 44).

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, orange, geranium, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, tonka been, vanilla

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample of Patchouli Tonka.