Mona di Orio - Bohea Bohème

Picture: The Yunnu hill, the symbol of the Wuyi Mountains
Photo by Ricky Chow (cc)
Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

Bohea Bohème is the latest fragrance from the house of Mona di Orio and the second release which is not created by the great, and sadly, late Mona. Bohea Bohème is created by Fredrik Dalman, an unknown perfumer to me, the name sounds suspicious swedish. The fragrance Bohea Bohème is inspired of and will capture (according to a brief from the perfumehouse)  "the smoldering delicacy of the distinctive tea cultivated in the Wuyi Mountains of China. The precious Bohea Tea, fumed with pinewood, is prized for its complex aroma and rich character"

 Bohea Bohème starts with a  smokey, light tea-ish note infused with a note resembeling tar. There also a hint of cardamom and a light, uplifting blond woody impression, as wood in the mountains of a warmer climat, cooled off by the rain. There is also something bright and almost chilly to the first part of the fragrance, probably an effect of the chamomille inteacting with the woody notes. As Bohea dries further down, the fragrance becomes warmer, woodier, rounder and a tad sweeter, even if this is not at sweet fragrance at all.
The fragrane also calms down from the explosion of notes in its first part, it becomes a skinscent, close to the wearer. The basenotes of Bohea is a plesant, light smokey, sort of waxy, balsamic, woody.

Alltogether, the fragrance is loud and somehow refreshing in its first part and then calms down to be intimate and relaxing in its later stages. Bohea as a whole is not the typical tea-fragrance, tea is just one of the co-working ingredients. This make me think of another fragrance in this genre which Bohea may be inspired from, the intriguing  Russian Tea from Masque. The same concept with tea as a co-working note and some similarities in smell, i.e the smoky note. Compared to Bohea Bohème Russian Tea is more distinctive, rougher, tougher with more contrasts during its dry down. Except smoky, black tea, Russian Tea also have notes of mint, leather and raspberry. If roughly translated to seasons of the year, Russian Tea is a winterfragrance and Buhea Bohème is for summer.

Picture: Bohea Bohème
Photo: PR Mona di Orio (c)

Bohea Bohème is a fragrance suitable for daytime wearing, both for work and casual. Silage is big in the topnotes but then becomes a close skinscent in the later stages. Longevity is very good, I can smell unfragmented traces after 24h+. The fragrance is totally unisex.

Bohea Bohème is a good fragrance but to me it lacks the originality, creativity and depts of the creations of late Mona di Orio herself. Compared to Monas compositions Bohea is soulless and could have been released from any nichehouse. The unique style, skills and the bottled passion in the fragrances created by Mona are lost in the releases post Mona. There will be a difficult future for the house of Mona di Orio to stand out from the nichecrowd as the house did during the days of Mona.

Rating: 4

Notes: Bergamot, cardamom, iris, chamomile,  poplar bud, balsam fir, boxtree, geranium, black tea oil, smoked juniper, oakwood, sandalwood, beeswax, bay leaf, benzoin, vanilla absolute

By Kilian - Imperial Tea

Picture: Flower close up of Jasminum officinale
Photo: B.traeger (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons

Imperial Tea is the other of the two latest releases in the By Kilian Asian Tales Collection, a collection with transparent, elegant and relaxing fragrances of high quality ingredients. Even if delicate in style, the Asian Tales fragrances have good lastingpower and sillage to be modern, light compositions. The Asian Tales line IMO is especially good for spring and summer. Imperial Tea is created by Claice Becker with the intention to recreate the olfactive impression of  a freshly brewed cup of exquisite jasmine tea.

Imperial Tea starts with a beautiful, very natural smelling jasmine, which is sparkling, light and uplifiting. After a while a contrasting almost green a bit tart, chalky note appears which remainds me of the smell in the oyster colored Jugendstyled bathroom of my grandmother. This note, is also present for a while in By Kilian Playing with The Devil and just a tad denser also in Vanille Tonka from Parfums de Nicolaï. When Imperial Tea dries down, it is obvious that  the jasmine is not as clean as the initial impression. In the middlenotes the animalic undertone of jasmine appears, contrasting the cleaner notes just as the chalky note persist. The teanote of Imperial Tea is subtle and just accompaning the jasmine. It is a light, gentle, white teanote, like silver tip tea and there is absolutely non of the for many teafragrances typical harsh, wet wipe note. The teanote of Imperial Tea is the best subtle teanote that I have smelled in perfume so far. In the basenotes, Imperial Tea becames darker in its tonality but the wellbalanced jasmine, tea, green chalky, slight animalic combo still persists.

Picture Bai Hao Yin Zhen tea leaves (white tea)
Photo: lateasquirrel (cc) some rights reserved, Wikipedia Commons

Imperial Tea is perfect for sipping white tea in a blooming jasmine bower a warm early summer day. It's a casual chic fragrance, perfect for daytime wear and is also very suitable for office. Compared to the other By Kilian which feature jasmine, Love and Tears, Imperial Tea is more minimalistic and less flowery in style. Both fragrances are classied as unisex and to my nose Love and Tears leaning more to the feminine side than Imperial Tea which is positioned in the middle but also slight more feminine. Longevity is for a day, if freely applied, the sillage is close, a true wristsniffer. This is a must have for summer :-)

Rating: 5

Notes: Jasmine, tea

Robert Piguet - Chai

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Chai is a green fragrance accentuated by  flowery notes grounded in subtle and smooth, lingering teanotes. Chai is a part of the Robert Piguet Pacific Collection which is created by Aurelien Guichard.

Chai starts with a burst of the same fresh teanote that is the maintheme of the classic Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert. The fresh teanote quickly enters to the background but emphasizes the sparkling green freshness of the scent of just cutted  greenery and a gentle touch of white flowers, probably orangeblossom. A touch of a subdued citrusnote is also present. As Chai reaches the basenotes a wellbalanced smoky teannote joins the light teanote and the pronounced notes of greenery. A waxy note smoothens and warms the texture of Chai. Teafragrances are often cold and bright but Chai is warm and gentle in it's apperance. The smoky note is gentle, it's not the sharp smokiness of Lapsang souchong but a smooth smokiness. The smoky note reminds me somehow of a light version of the pleasant almost cigarette smoky note of my favourite Carner Barcelona, D600 . This smoky note is also present in another favourite, Annick Goutals herbal, smoky Nuit Etoilee. Finally there is (of course) also similarities to the smoky teanotes of L'Artisan Parfumeurs masterpiece Tea for Two but the smoky notes are subdued in Chai compared to Tea for two.

Chai is the perfect daytime spring and summerfragrance, also wearable in the colder month when longing for the summer. This green fragrance is suitable both for work and casual and even if bright and light in texture, Chai is sort of compact and not att all fleeting in its structure. The sillage is medium and the longevity for at least 12h.

Chai is suitable for wearers who likes the two perfumestyles indicated above: "Pure" tea fragrances and fragrances grounded with transparent, fresh lighten cigarette smoky notes. Other tea fragrances that comes to my mind when testing out Chai are Dior Escale à Pondichery (bergamot, jasmin, spices, black tea) and ByKilian Bamboo Harmony (bergamot, neroli, spices, tea).

To me Chai is the star of the Pacific Collection. An uplifting, comfortable fragrance, just in time with the color of 2013: Green.

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot leaves, white tea, (white flowers), beewax, mate tea